Category: Blogs

As warm tropical days and nights continue we are feeling privileged to be a guest of Kate’s in this beautiful part of the world. It is summer here but the holiday is over for local children as they go back to school or prepare for another college year. Tourists continue to pour in from the US mainland and all over the world to take advantage of the endless summer weather. During the day colourful yachts ply the waters off shore, while surfers ride the infinite waves that roll in like the ticking of a perpetual clock. Para gliders sail across the blue sky hanging from their multi-coloured silk chutes. While at night sunset dinner cruises take over the waters, glittering from bow to stern with illuminations whose reflections sparkle off the darkening waters. All adding to the revenue of this tourist driven state. Every Friday night starts the weekend off when the Rainbow Hilton, so called because of the rainbow design painted on the buildings side, puts on a spectacular fireworks display. While the locals lock up their dogs and shut their double glazed windows tight the tourists flock to the beach parks of Waikiki and Ala Moana to witness the event, or if you are very lucky you can watch from sister in law Kate’s apartment. These beach parks are sacred ground, public spaces, that cannot be privatised. There are almost nightly events, BBQ’s, family party’s, music of all kinds, gatherings large and small resulting in a city in a permanent state of holiday euphoria.

Meanwhile the ongoing saga with Kate’s aging Dodge Dart continues. The dealers service department after many phone enquiries from Kate calls her to let her know the car is at last available to be picked up, transmission problems all fixed, inspection carried out and good to go. The repair has taken about 10-12 days to be completed, with parts needing to be flown over from the mainland. The dealership is within walking distance, but Kate has to rush over to pick the good to go vehicle up, as there is a time limit to do so after which the dealer will charge $100 a day for the vehicle to be on their lot. Kate wants to have the car cleaned as well, apparently the dealer service/repair doesn’t include a complimentary clean. We have arranged to meet for dinner at Tango this evening a restaurant located at the base of the building. After picking up the car the hour is late and the car wash closed, so Kate drives home in the dusty vehicle that has sat outside for the duration of the repair period, the drive is less than a mile in total. At dinner I ask Kate how the drive home went and if she felt the car performed as normal, she tells us that she felt that the brake pedal felt soft and that she had to push it to the floor in order to slow or stop the car. In addition when arriving home and parking the car a great deal of water dripped onto the car park floor, water that that Kate thought may have come from the aircon unit. Putting two and two together I suggested that the yellowish water could be brake fluid. We decide she should take a photo of the fluid and yes it is brake fluid. Now the car is again a non-drivable brick . Next morning the dealer is reluctant to collect the vehicle but eventually offers up a towing service that had less than satisfactory reviews. Taking matters into her own hands she calls her triple A road assistance service. Triple A had towed the car from the Pali only a couple of weeks prior and here they are again trying to tow the car again, this time from the Hokua apartment buildings undercover garage a couple of stories up. The tow truck is too high to enter the parking garage so the truck driver manoeuvres the car down the ramp using the emergency brake on the downward spiralling ramp. The car finally secured begins its journey towards the dealership by early afternoon. Kate is understandably not happy as the saga continues, the dealership reports that a brake line has split, and that the others could fail at any minute, due the dealer says to the age of the vehicle. After 13 years of annual services and safety checks the dealership should know the care inside out. For safety sake the service department recommends replacing all of the brake lines. The vehicle has spent more time at the dealership in the past 5 months than in the parking garage, each time repairs are carried out, deposits paid, vehicle safely inspections are undergone, but none have shown critical wear on a very important life saving function of the car, the ability to stop! Those brake lines do not age 13 years over night, don’t you know! The Dart is now back at the dealership awaiting repairs, life goes on even in paradise, the aloha spirit not extended to vehicles, the Cutter Dodge(y) dealership asleep at the wheel.

Shopping at Ala Moana continues with forays into the mall whenever we have the opportunity. Considering the exchange rate is not in our favour there are still bargains to be found, if you know what to look for. With the added bonus of more choice and a bigger range of products than we see in Australia. Online shopping hasn’t yet killed off this mall. One of the attractions or distractions are the collection of artworks dotted around the centre as well as the koi ponds to be found in various locations. Although many have now gone after renovations over the last 8 years. The Sculptural pieces are to be found in various courtyards as you wander around with painted murals adorning the sides of overhead walkways.

Earlier this week we discovered that Cirque du Soleil has established a residency in Waikiki. Amanda and I are long time fans, attending their performances whenever the troupe are in Adelaide. Experiencing one of their shows overseas is an extra special delight. Even more so now that the troupe are here performing a uniquely Hawaiian show based on the islands people, their culture and traditions. The show is named Auana (translating to wander, drift or move from place to place) a bit like Amanda and me at the moment. Performances playing for the foreseeable future at the Outrigger Beachcomber Hotel’s small theatre. We book tickets for Kate, Amanda and me for an early evening show this Friday. Cirque du Soleil’s own description has us anticipating an exciting event.

“Step into a world where reality bends and the spirit of Hawai‘i comes alive—welcome to ‘Auana, an enchanting journey brought to life by Cirque du Soleil. This spectacular show celebrates the essence of the islands through breathtaking artistry and awe-inspiring athleticism. Prepare to be captivated as a diverse ensemble of international and local talents delivers an exhilarating blend of acrobatics, laughter, mesmerizing hula, and soul-stirring music. 

The compelling narrative of ‘Auana unfolds across eight chapters, inspired by the mo‘olelo (stories) of Hawai‘i. From the Polynesian migration, to the “golden age of tourism”, each act honors a deep connection to the ʻāina (land), celebrating Hawai‘i’s rich heritage and cultural traditions”.

Shopping has some advantages, meeting some interesting people just one of them. Our accents giveaway the fact we are not locals, even Amanda’s accent seems to be fading when compared to the average American resident or tourist. Just across the road is Nordstrom Rack one of the US’s biggest department store’s outlet branch, where last year’s fashions and discounted lines are sold off at bargain prices. On checking out we are asked where we are from. In answer to our reply we are told that there is a a colony of Southeastern Australian rock wallaby’s here on Oahu. Apparently quite a few survive up in the Kalihi Valley, just north of the city of Honolulu. Imported in 1916 for a zoo, that failed to eventuate the three immigrants escaped into the hills. One falling victim to a wild dog, the other two survived to breed, producing the colony still in existence today. We are all the more wiser for learning this little known fact, with an Aussie connection. Unlike many other of imported species they don’t yet seem to have over run the island.

It is Friday. Today’s weather forecast is for a sunny warm day with occasional scudding clouds, light breezes, and moderate humidity. Same as yesterday and the day before that, and the day before that. Like looking in a mirror with a mirror behind you, seeing your reflection appearing to go on and on into infinity. Being an Hawaiian meteorologist would be a great job, plenty of time to go surfing. There is a full moon tonight or as the Hawaiians say a “Hoku” moon. The sun and Earth conveniently aligning with this moon to create increased gravitational pull that will in turn produce king tides along Oahu’s shores. As a result bringing 10-14 foot waves to the beaches of Waikiki and Ala Moana, a rarity on this side of the island. Our elevated position allows us an excellent view of the rising ocean at nearby Ala Moana Beach park each evening. Today we are able to have a closer look as we are having lunch in Waikiki right on the ocean. Being the guest of a local also has its benefits as Kate scores a table ocean side at the Monkey Pod Kitchen restaurant, a branch of the Merriman chain. A trendy local name, after a local tree that has a large spreading canopy that produces oversized curved seed pods the length of a monkeys arms. After lunch its on to the Cirque du Soleil show.

Ubering around Honolulu has proved the best way for point to point travel, there are pricing options depending on the level of space or luxury you want. Most uber drivers have Tesla model Y’s that are comfortable, quiet and smooth if a little different. Our Uber arrives on time, the drive into Waikiki takes about 15-20 minutes for US$25 or Aus$38 probably not far off a typical ride in Adelaide. The Monkey Pod Kitchen is situated in the Outrigger Reef Hotel right on the oceanfront. With the seas up, waves are crashing into the sea wall that forms the seaside perimeter of the hotel. After taking some photos of the iconic Diamond Head crater rising from the turquoise waters of Waikiki bay we are shown to an oceanfront table in a sheltered corner. Most tables have transparent blinds on the open side, we soon see why those most desired tables are doused with ocean spray as a set of big waves rolls in. Those blinds prevent 90% of the spray but at times the salty water finds its way around the screens. Our table is reasonably safe but an adjacent one with no screen is repeatedly taking a shower. The food is exceptionally good, the variations on the relaxed theme of fish, salads and burgers have that little extra class about them. The sauces and dressings making all the difference to normally ordinary fare. We have front row seats to all the activity, surfers heading out to catch the larger than normal waves, a schooner sits out in the ocean beyond the waves while closer in a seal bobs up and down, appearing and disappearing from sight. We name the Hawaiian seal Bob, trying to track his movements and guess where he will “Bob” up next.

Time up, we move on by foot along Waikiki’s main thoroughfare, Kalakaua Avenue to the Outrigger Beachcomber. This hotel has a small theatre, 724 seats ensuring patrons all have a good view of the stage. Ours are centrally located and just a few rows back from the stage. As we take our seats a lone acoustic guitarist sits on the stage picking out a calming tune. As the lights go down, a man appears looking like a typical tourist, he mimes a demand for the artist to sign his program. The artist switches to a bamboo flute like woodwind instrument the haunting sound lulling the tourist into a dreaming sleep. Where he is taken on a journey through eight stages of Hawaii’s development. The acrobats take us through feats of balance, strength and agility, their bodies trained to perform fluid movements, that at our age we can barely remember. Individual performances both on stage and above take us through the uniquely Hawaiian story from ancient beginnings to day, with the tourist providing hilarious interludes. Altogether eighty minutes of non stop entertainment with ooh’s and aah’s and bucket loads of laughter, not to mention the amazement at the superior skill of these artists. We left with the feeling that we had experienced an entertaining, funny and unique show.

At the Ala Moana Shopping centre the next day we pass by the Tesla showroom. On display is the Tesla Bot, a humanoid robot under development by Elan Musk. Generation 3 has just recently come into existence, apparently the Bot will start to go on sale in November this year. Did I blink and miss something! Robots could be mowing the lawn, picking up the groceries or looking after the kids very, very soon. At US$30,000 I dare say there will be quite a few takers wanting to be on the cutting edge of this technology. The robot will be known as Optimus and will have advanced AI and learning capabilities. Connected to the internet it will be able to learn any tasks from a video or explicit instructions. The bot will then be able to share this information with other bots. With advanced dexterity it can crack an egg or thread a needle, maybe darn your socks just like grandma used to do. Or even play the piano. It seems that just a few years ago these machines couldn’t even stand up, now they can walk, talk, climb stairs or be let loose in uneven garden terrain. The Tesla model will immediately be able to sweep, vacuum, cook, clean the toilets, water the plants, serve a drink and bring in your Amazon parcels. The potential is enormous. Just like those robot dust collectors it will return to its station for charging its 8-10 hour battery. The future is on our doorstep.

Thinking about the future, science fiction and Marvel comics, the latter more back to the future than futuristic from today’s standpoint we took time out to go to the movies. An event we looked forward to participating in with Jim, Kate’s late husband, on our frequent visits here. As a tribute to Jim we wanted to continue the tradition, hoping he would be looking down with approval. This season the selection is a little thin with just a couple of movies released in this vein. A new Superman release is one option and the Fantastic Four another. We choose the Fantastic Four, widely considered to be at the forefront of the Marvel comic books started in 1961, when we are just eleven.

The Fantastic Four’s origin revolves around four friends who embarked on an experimental, unauthorised space mission. The team’s vessel, the Marvel-1, suffered bombardment by cosmic rays during their flight. Though the ship’s shielding failed, the four survived the crash back to Earth, where they discovered they had newfound powers. Together they decided to use these abilities to benefit humanity, forming the Fantastic Four. Their comic book debut saw them face off against the Mole Man and his army of monsters. Dr. Reed Richard’s or Mr Fantastic gained the ability to stretch his body into all sorts of contortions. Susan “Sue” Storm Richards found she could become invisible and create powerful force fields. Johnny Storm gained the ability to become a human torch and to fly, while Ben Grim’s body is permanently transformed into rock, giving him superhuman strength and durability. The movie is more akin to the comic books I remember from that era, the future just as we imagined it would be. With flying cars, robots and giant TV screens that looked just like our little TV set that sat in a corner on its four skinny legs, all those years ago. In a time when we imagined that any threat to the world would come from without and that the people of earth would come together to save the species. How wrong we were.

It’s Sunday, we arise late after watching the Adelaide Crows nearly succumb to defeat by the Perth Eagles. Fortunately they survive but a close call that must have sent shock waves through the coaching team.

Since our last visit, the giant Howard Hughes. corporation has built a concrete walking bridge over Ala Moana Boulevard just west of us. The walkway takes out the need to cross that very busy six lane highway.

The history of Ward Corporation’s (now Ward Village, under The Howard Hughes Corporation) land ownership in Honolulu is a rich and lengthy one, stretching back to the late 19th century. Starting with Curtis and Victoria Ward who farmed the area on their 100 acre property in Kaka’ako in 1870’s and 80’s. After Curtis Ward died Victoria managed the estate, forming her own company in 1930. She continued to grow her family’s real estate assets. A portion of the land changed hands when the city purchased it, but the Victoria Ward company continued to develop the remaining land. Opening Ward Centre and Ward Warehouse. In 2002 General Growth corporation purchased these properties and surrounding land for US$250m but went into bankruptcy in 2010. The Howard Hughes corporation then purchased the property. Howard Hughes has since rebranded the area as Ward Village, transforming it into a master-planned community with high rise residences, retail, and entertainment spaces. All this is still ongoing with new high rise apartments built or in the process of being built. The entire area now undergoing a transformation that will provide a unique high rise village atmosphere housing thousands of people along the southern coastline. The development is happening on a large scale incorporating amazing architecture amongst modern facilities and plenty of green space. The developments include a degree of “affordable housing” but it is hard to see how that will be possible, (define affordable please?) given the surrounding property values in this area.

This morning we take a walk along Ala Moana Boulevard heading west towards the Marina known as Kewalo Basin Harbor. This stretch of road that houses the old Ward Centre will soon be further developed. Once a vibrant shopping area most of the shop owners have vacated as leases are not renewed ahead of this massive renewal project. The bridge opened in May spans the six lane highway giving easy access to the Harbor and Ala Moana beach park. Once we veer off to take the ramp that leads to the bridge we are entering the newly created 1.4 acre Victoria Ward Park Makai, the latter word meaning seaward. A lush tropical green space with a pond and sculptures by local artists. A feature of the park is the use of native plants to reduce irrigation and mitigate urban heat effects. The park will eventually be extended to cover a total of 3.5 acres connecting nearby apartment complexes currently under construction just north of the bridge.

A fluttering nearby catches my eye as a large perfectly formed orange and black Monarch butterfly hovers around a nearby flowering bush. Eventually settling for nectar from the bright red and yellow blooms.

A large sculpture named Wayfinding by local artist Linda Fleming stands near the entrance calling to mind ocean currents and celestial navigation. The visual effect created by shifting light and shadows creates a dynamic focal point in the park. A landmark reflecting the spirit of exploration that shaped Hawai’i’s past. The park also pays tribute to native birdlife with sculptures of seven Hawaiian Stilts that used to inhabit this coastal area but now sadly are in rapid decline.

Just over the pedestrian bridge we are in Kewalo Harbor where all manor of craft take fun loving tourists out for some time on the ocean. Whatever your ocean going preference, sailing, fishing, para sailing, reef viewing in a glass bottom boat, snorkeling, skin diving your imagination can be satisfied here. Boats of all shapes and sizes are moored ready for action. Even one with a corkscrew slippery slide that delivers you with a splash from up high above into the clear turquoise waters below. From here we can see the entrance to the Harbor where yesterday a rather large boat lost control, literally surfing to a stop. The 3 meter waves created by the king tide carrying the vessel forward to end up stuck on the beach dangerously close to the Seawall.

Now on the Oceanside we walk back east passing the Harbor and into Ala Moana Beach Park. A 100 acre park that stretches 800 meters along the coast. The beach is popular with locals and tourists as the water here is protected by a shallow reef off shore. Even the larger than usual waves of today break against the coral reef leaving the protected water calm enough for standing paddle boarders.

Continuing our walk into the park towards the ocean the area is full of activity as visitors look for available car parks. Most are full, it is a Sunday after all. As we move further into the park their is evidence of approaching weddings as a bride receives a touch up to her pre photo makeup. Smoke billows out from under colourful shelters as compact charcoal grill bbq’s are lit in preparations for the days picnics. Under brightly decorated awnings we can see several teenage birthday party’s are preparing to have some fun with music emanating from speakers that would fill a concert hall with sound. A group of ten or more Asian looking percussion musicians are seated in a circle on the grass with their instruments before them under the spreading canopy of a long limbed tree. A Sunday morning get-together of like minded people or a band having a practice session, we will never know. Other groups of indeterminate purpose that we can only guess at have gathered here as well to take advantage of the large umbrella shaped shady trees. It is indeed a warm sunny morning with the early clouds that shaded us in our walk thus far, now gone. While the park has mostly broad canopied trees like Banyan and Monkey Pod there are other varieties. A particularly beautiful one is a cross between the pink and golden shower tree varieties, Cassia x nealiae, known locally as the rainbow shower tree.

There are also Persian Silk trees with their striking pink and white fan like blossom. An invasive species but shady and attractive all the same.

There are not many birds to be found around Ala Moana, no doubt bird fanciers would beg to differ. We did see a few white terns soaring over the water, invasive Indian myna birds, sparrow like finches on the lawns picking up food scraps from the barbecuing crowd. Also groups of little turtle doves, smaller than those at home. No gulls, a surprise to me as they are ever present on the Australian coast, and most other coasts we have visited. We did see a group of small finches looking for grass seeds, very similar in size and colour to our red cap or fire tail finches. Although these had a red brow and horizontal stripes on their back wings and body.

We continue our walk following the bay out on the peninsula to the point known as magic island. In reality not an island, but at one time named for a proposed resort that never came to fruition. The official name Aina Moana translates as “land from the sea”. As we walk we pass by a small Japanese wedding taking place against the backdrop white foaming breakers rolling in one after the other. The tip of the peninsula is an ideal surf watching location. Surfers can climb down the rocks here against the cliff face to reach the outer part of the reef into open water. Today the surfers are out in numbers patiently waiting in groups to ride the next wave as they build to greater heights than usual for the south coast.

The following day we tick off another goal, to visit the Bishop Museum. While we have taken the trip out to the site before there are always new exhibits to see or programs on. The museum also boasts a planetarium that has various demonstrations showing how the early Micronesians and Polynesians navigated the Pacific Ocean using only the stars to populate the islands way before the west knew they existed. The museum recently returned 10,000 artefacts from their collection to the Mariana islands. Including a group of sacred stones known as Latte, used in early construction as long ago as the building of the pyramids, that have sat in the Bishop Museum’s grounds since the 1920’s. We will be able to view them before they are moved back to their cultural home. There are many more interesting artefacts on display in the vintage cabinets reminiscent of a Victorian style library highly polished Koa timber is used inside the three story building while the exterior features lava rock blocks.

The carved stone figure standing steadfast in one of the ground floor alcoves is called Kaneikokala. The statue uncovered by Wahinenui, a kama’aina (native born) of Kawaihae, Hawaii. Wahinenui claimed his dreams guided him to the buried location of the ki’i (godlike image). After its discovery, he also claimed that the ki’i had pleaded to be taken from the cold earth in which it lay. Kaneikokala came to the Bishop Museum in 1906, and not long afterward became cemented permanently into the floor of the Hawaiian Hall.

It is said that in spite of well intentioned efforts to relocate Kãne to a suitable site outside the Hall, the statue has steadfastly held its ground and has refused to be moved.

Next it’s the planetarium for a lesson on the northern hemisphere night sky. We also learn about the continuing journey of the Hokule’a a traditional Polynesian canoe replica that began its ocean going life in 1976 with a journey to Tahiti. It has since continued to travel around the pacific training young Micronesians and Polynesians how to navigate by the stars and ocean currents alone, therefore continuing their cultural heritage.

An important note, it is Amanda’s birthday today. As we all know she loves to spend her birthdays in warm tropical places. what better place to turn 75 and be with family you haven’t seen for eight years. Tonight we celebrate Amanda & Sister Kate’s birthdays at Merriman’s restaurant.

Our last day arrives, tomorrow we will be on our way home. All our boxes ticked and goals achieved. Three magical islands visited, loved one’s laid to rest in these blue tropical waters. Spending precious time with family that remain, eating, drinking and sharing the memories and stories of our lives with much laughter and just a few tears. A little shopping, a movie, a play, a Cirque du Soleil show, fireworks and a little Hawaiian culture all add up to a wonderful stay. Thirty sunrises and thirty sunsets have passed, as time marches on so must we. Until the call to travel once again like the Wayfinders of past has us packing our bags for another exciting journey.

After the day of the tsunami we all didn’t feel like doing much at all, it felt good just to relax in this idyllic setting. Watching the occasional golfing activity, the clouds as they gathered around the mountains and Maui directly across the ocean from us. Plenty of conversation and lots of laughter as Amanda and Kate unpack a collection of photos that had arrived from their cousin Margie in Washington State. Their aunt Anne, now passed, a prolific photo taker and recorder of the family history had complied a large collection over the years. Pictures she had taken and that she had received from other branches of this close knit family. This too, the last day for Jimmy and Susan before they fly back to their San Diego home. The day ends with the now ritual lighting of the gas fired tiki torches, a glorious sunset and a bbq dinner in the warm tropical air.

The next day, Jimmy and Susan leave for San Diego and our party is down to three, just Kate, Amanda and me. It’s now our last full day at Mauna Lani, we leave for Honolulu tomorrow. For lunch we take the electric cart down to the Mauna Lani centre where there is a Tommy Bahamas restaurant above one of their clothing stores.

Tommy Bahamas are an Hawaiian institution specialising in Hawaiian shirts and leisure wear for men and women with a tropical theme. They have now branched out to restaurants offering food and drinks in a similar vein. We order a share serve of guacamole with some chips (American for potato crisps) as a starter, once we make a start on the dish it seems we have an obstacle taking up valuable guacamole space. A large brown object slowly emerges from the green mash, becoming an island in a sea of pureed avocado. It appears that the stone had inadvertently dropped into the bowl and we had became the lucky recipients. Now, eating in a foreign country can present problems, maybe that’s the way guacamole is meant to be served in far off exotic Hawaii. Kate assures me it’s not served that way in Honolulu, but I say we are on the Island of Hawaii. I call the waitress over and ask her if it is customary to serve the avocado stone with the guacamole, her quizzical look tells us it’s not and she whisks the bowl off to the kitchen to point out the mishap to some unlucky kitchen hand. The bemused waitress is soon back with a fresh bowl full of guacamole and loaded with a new batch of chips with more than a few apologies from the kitchen. A manager soon arrives with more apologies and a promise to remove the cost of the dish from the bill. No harm done, it’s not as if we could have choked on the over large seed. Nevertheless nothing like a bit of culinary excitement to brighten up your day.

After lunch and a little bit of retail therapy we return to the share house along the roads bordered by lava rock sprinkled with tufts of dry straw coloured grass. At one point along the road the golf course runs parallel for 200 metres or so complete with bunkers and a small lake. As we approach we can see movement, an unusual sight indeed as a herd of at least 20 dun coloured goats are grazing on the lush green course close to the road. Hawaii doesn’t have a great deal of animals but we learn that feral goats and pigs are making an unwelcome nuisance of themselves. Left here by Captain Cook himself as a future food sources, it appears with no natural predators it’s not only the mongoose that are thriving here. Luckily our experience with goats in the Australian outback is that they in tend to run from oncoming traffic. I slow down anyway not that the electric golf buggy I am driving (on the wrong side of the road mind you) goes that fast. But just in case. As we approach the animals are drifting across the road in ones or twos into the lava field on the opposite side. Where they disappear amongst the craggy landscape where only a goat could survive, these particular goats blending in with the landscape so that they are barely visible at all.

Evening closing in with a spectacular sunset, living in the Adelaide hills we see little of sunsets, just the reflection of the dying sun as it throws a pinkish light against that darkening clouds. Here the sun’s going down paints a new picture every day, the artist never tiring with the scene, creating new hues and cloud formations daily.

The next day we leave our dream island, an island within an island surrounded as it is by lava rock and ocean. Time to fly back to Honolulu for the last leg of our journey. We fly from Kona airport late morning with little of the hassle we had getting here.

Another island hopping short flight and we touch down in Honolulu, back in short time at home base, Kate’s apartment building. We are staying in one of the building’s comfortable guest suites on the terrace level with access to outdoor areas, large swimming pool, Gym and fully equiped bbq cabana’s. Our room has laid empty while we spent time in the Big Island giving the opportunity for the carpets to be cleaned. The furniture pieces as a consequence stacked high in the tiled entrance hallway. The building has its own staff, their existence it seems is to look after every need of the occupants, as a guest our bags are on the way up no sooner than we arrive, soon we have two staff members after delivering our bags happily sorting out the furniture while apologising profusely. Conversation ensues and we have the chance to question them about their tsunami experience. They tell how the traffic caused mayhem on the roads and the entire road network became grid locked as employees from businesses all over the city and Waikīkī left work for home has authorities ordered an immediate evacuation. Authorities hadn’t counted on those panicked drivers who when the traffic stood still abandoned their vehicles to walk to higher ground , therefore causing road blockages that could only be moved by tow trucks. Beach goers and holiday makers alike had to head for the hills or to their rooms if staying in a high rise hotel or building. The Hokua (meaning crest of a wave) building is 41 floors with apartments well above sea level, even the terrace where we are staying would not allow one to have wet feet. The employees emergency procedures ensured they stay in place, with any new shift unable to travel to work while the emergency slowly unfolded. Not able to go home until the all clear later that night but managing to obtain some pizza for a staff party while they waited. Before the all clear came and they could go home to their families.

As one online reporter put it “I don’t remember ever hearing about a tsunami hitting Hawaii, that was worth worrying about. BUT, people freaked out this week… and suddenly, the state has a worry about gridlock traffic making an evacuation impossible.

Cars were backed up for hours, and miles, on Tuesday in Honolulu as residents responded to alerts by jumping in their cars.

If, instead, they had walked 20 minutes inland, I shit you not, they would have been at far higher elevation than any tidal wave could reach. Yeah, mountain islands, are like that. The first widespread tsunami warning blared out from the state’s Emergency Management Agency at 2:44 p.m. to every cellphone in Hawaiʻi, urging people to leave coastal areas, and move to higher ground or inland immediately. It said nothing about heading to tall buildings”.

After settling in, it’s off to the nearby Whole Foods Market, grocery store, come takeaway outlet. Situated within walking distance in an architecturally attractive building befitting the modern vibe of the area. As the name suggests the store is very much about fresh healthy produce although they do sell other packaged or processed foods, even wine. The main point of difference is the range of hot foods and salads presented in rows of Bay Marie’s. Cardboard containers at the end of the rows in different sizes are then used to contain whatever you select, priced by weight at the checkout. The range is substantial, cooked veggies, meats, salad ingredients of all kinds. Even wood oven pizza sold by the slice, with triangular shaped to-go boxes at the ready. Quite remarkable and inexpensive. Our main aim today is fresh fruit and breakfast items to see us through tomorrow and the coming days.

The next day it’s time to explore the Ala Moana shopping centre. Just a short walk for us and we are there. With over 350 shops and restaurants it’s going to be a busy day.

The shopping centre has something for everyone, High end brands down to lower priced point shops. On this occasion, even a pop up market selling handicrafts and the usual market fare. At the centre there is a central stage that often hosts hula dancers and Hawaiian bands as well as shows for the kids while mum and dad shop away. Today there are a very graceful troupe of grandma’s strutting their stuff on stage. Terrific to see these octogenarians up there entertaining the tourists and having a great time doing it.

Lunch is in one of the department stores, Nordstrom’s have a bar located on the second floor right next to the escalators where they serve a light lunch menu. From here one can have a glass of wine with lunch and watch the shoppers as they meander their way around the various departments on this floor. An Innovative and successful idea judging by the amount of patrons refuelling today. After lunch we decide that we are done with shopping for the day, the mall is teaming with people, the stores are thumping out loud music and the heat of the day is wearing us out, must be getting old!

Later on as the day cools we return to whole Foods to complete our grocery shopping for the week. Kate still hasn’t heard from her car dealership in regards to the repairs to her Dodge Dart. Subject of a breakdown up at the Nu’aunu Pali (a mountain tourist spot with fabulous views to Waikiki and the coast). Jimmy and Susan had borrowed the car for a trip to the eastern shores, during our first week here, then returning via the Pali the vehicle refused to move after a sightseeing stop. After arranging for the vehicle to be towed to the dealership with apparent transmission problems, Kate had since not heard a peep. Leaving her with the thought, do I really need a car. The Ala Moana area is extremely well serviced, a modern high rise village with all one could need within walking distance. It’s a serious question to consider. The faithful Dart dearly loved by recently passed husband Jim is 13 years old with very few miles and in showroom condition. Which brings us back to grocery shopping, while home deliveries are all the rage again after a 70 year absence walking is still a great exercise and the district has so much to offer in regards to local cafes and food outlets. Making the use of a car less of a necessity and more of a nice to have situation. With all this in mind we will purchase a mobile shopping trolley for Kate once there. That will enable her in future shopping expeditions to walk to Whole Foods and return with relative ease. No car involved.

The next day we are off to see a local production of a play that began the TV series Columbo. “Prescription Murder” stars two local TV personalities, now retired in this murder mystery told from a different point of view. Where the audience knows who commits the felony but Columbo has to solve this almost perfect crime. More a how dunnit than a who dunnit.

The play is to be performed at the Hawaii Theatre that has played a significant role in Honolulu‘s cultural landscape since 1922. Originally built for vaudeville performances and the silent movie era, it transitioned to a full movie theatre but fell into disrepair by the 80’s. Fortunately local volunteers formed a group to save the theatre from demolition and becoming a car park, later restoring the venue to its former glory.

The Theatre is situated in one of the oldest parts of Honolulu, Chinatown. Chinatown has traditionally played host to restaurants, noodle shops and bars as well as crowded Asian markets full of antiques and stalls selling lei flower necklaces. The area is also an artistic hub, home to indie art galleries and the art deco Hawaii Theatre Center, that stages concerts, musicals and comedy. Temples include the Buddhist Kuan Yin Temple, with its striking green roof. The historic buildings make the site significant historically and culturally. The district does appear to have its challenges, with homelessness and increased crime. More police are on the job, but there is an underlining problem here that one would think that the people of such a wealthy state could solve. There is also the relentless impact of urban renewal, providing beautifully architectural buildings and utopian living spaces but the relentless push westward along the coast could see this areas place in Honolulu’s history suffer into the future.

Dinner tonight is at another of Hawaii’s most famous restaurants. Yiu will find a Merriman’s on every island. Merriman’s restaurant, founded by chef Peter Merriman, is known for its commitment to Hawaiian regional cuisine and its use of locally sourced ingredients. The first Merriman’s restaurant opened in Waimea on the Big Island in 1988, pioneering a movement to feature fresh, locally grown produce and meats. Like most of the islands restaurants we have visited the trend is less haute cuisine and more up market cafe. The menu usually simple fresh food served attractively. Salads, burgers, fish sandwiches and tacos are all staples. The price of dining is high here in Hawaii add to that the bizarre (to us Aussies) tipping ritual, thus the meals simplicity keeps the prices more affordable while not being pretentious. This particular restaurant chain branch has just reopened after some serious water damage from within the building, flooding the floors and destroying fixtures and fittings. Usually packed, it is a little less so today as patrons slowly discover their favourite eating place is back on line.

To be cont….

Another day in paradise and the clear weather continues. Blue cloudless skies leaving only the island of Maui holding onto rings of cloud that circumnavigate the mountains crater top. Leaving only the craggy peaks visible. The cloud ring I imagine sliding down the slopes as the heat of the sun increases throughout the day. Our shared house is located adjacent to a golf course of verdant green grass trimmed just millimetres from its surface soil. Odd shaped bunkers with white sand dot the green, waiting to catch an errant ball. While piles of rusty brown and black lava rock, create golf ball eating monsters that will swallow a ball whole given half a chance. In the distance usually swaying palm trees have stopped their dance as the ocean beyond lies still. The golf course is busy this morning, more carts than usual are whizzing from one whole to the next. They stop, disgorge their passengers who limber up and strike the ball, then remount their four wheeled steeds and are on their way again. Not sure where the exercise is in that. There appears to be club marshals in their own carts, stopping to talk to golfers, we speculate that this is required to move those halted golfers on as the course bottle necks in front of us. Then there’s the refreshment cart going from hole to hole to drum up business. A cold beer or soda would go down well with those club wielding players as they are stuck out in the heat of the sun. Searching for that little ball of dimpled white in a field of green, or worse still chipping the ball out of a sandy bunker, or the bordering on impossible task of retrieving it from a treacherous lava field.

It’s a domestic day today, each of us busily catching up on those little chores that oil the wheels of life as we move along this shared timeline.

By the time we venture out the midday sun is high in the sky, reminding me of an old quote about mad dogs and Englishmen being the only ones to venture out at this time of day. But we are tempted to investigate the Hawaiian fishponds and petroglyph field that sit adjacent to the Mauna Lani Beach club. Sunscreen, hats and sunglasses are our first priority, Jimmy chauffeurs us in our six person electric golf cart down to the path that will take us to the petroglyphs. We are expecting a reasonable hike but the pathway is a short one, not long at all. The pathway becomes circular bordered by small lava boulders with slabs of flat rock propped up like pieces of broken black concrete from a demolition site. These slabs have figures chiseled into them, depicting warriors with spears, dancers and other images that one can only guess about. Despite the obvious cultural and historical significance of these pieces there is an anticlimactic feeing about the site, as it so obviously staged. Not at all the journey of discovery we had anticipated. Although, had we wanted to be more adventurous we could have taken a rocky track through a dark tangled wood that had the look of some petrified forest from a one of Grim’s tales of our childhood. We send Jimmy in but he doesn’t see any clear path to grandma’s cottage and quickly returns. The only animate creature we see using are the mongoose that are particularly prevalent and nonchalant about our presence in this area.

From the petroglyph field the ocean is just a short walk, here the coast is sharp edged black lava contrasted by white sandy shell grit, that on close inspection is made up of broken pieces of bleached fossilised coral and water and time worn pebbles. Beyond this monochrome strip the turquoise ocean glitters in the searing sunlight.

The petroglyph field explored we move on to the historic fish ponds. Hawaiian fishponds, or loko I’a are ancient aquaculture systems that were crucial for food production in ancient Hawaii. These cleverly designed ponds, often built along shorelines, allowed for the controlled cultivation of fish and other marine life. They represent the sophisticated level of understanding of marine ecosystems and sustainable resource management that Hawaiians had developed.

The ponds are literally teaming with fish, big and small. Stirring the waters as they twist and turn, occasionally flashing their silver underbellies that reflect the sunlight through the clear waters of the pond. Small crabs skitter around the edges of the pond feeding on any algae, microscopic creatures or decaying organic material they can find. Back at the house, the golf course scene from mountain to sea is delightfully calming, the air still and clear, not a breeze stirs the palm trees. Tonight the sunset creates a pinkish golden glow across the sky, there are no clouds to reflect the suns rays this evening so instead the sun paints the entire sky in its own rose gold image.

The islands of Hawaii sit in the northern hemisphere between 2000 and 2400 kilometres north of the equator. The main islands of the group range from 19 to 22 degrees north latitude. Cacao trees like to grow naturally in a band 20 degrees north or south of the equator. It’s no surprise then that chocolate would be an ideal agricultural crop for Hawaii. The surprise is that they hadn’t picked up the crop earlier. The first cacao trees were planted in Hawaii in the 1830s, with some sources citing a Guatemalan variety in the gardens of King David Kalakaua. Another account mentions Dr. William Hillebrand introducing cacao in 1850, potentially on land that is now part of the Foster Botanical Garden. The planting of these trees didn’t result in any commercial cacao farming, some tried but faced challenges, including disruptions from wars, fluctuating prices, and a lack of consistent local commercial interest. A turning point came in the 1996, with the establishment of Hawaii’s agricultural giant the Dole Food Company ( known more for its pineapple plantations ) planting a 20-acre cacao farm on Oahu’s North Shore. Encouraged by Dole’s successful growing of this demanding tree, small independent farms followed with similar success leading to the rise of the bean-to-bar chocolate production in Hawaii. Today, Hawaii is known for its unique, high-quality cacao and craft chocolate, with both large-scale farms like Waialua Estate and smaller, artisanal producers contributing to the industry. Cacao trees take a long time to fruit between 5-7 years, so patience is required.

Today we set off in search of chocolate to be found in Honoka’a on the Big island’s north shore, 45 miles (53 kilometres) north west of where we are staying. Here we are told there is a cacao plantation and manufacturing facilities. Amanda decides to stay at home, a severe case of nasal congestion brought on by the huge amount of cut grass as golf course maintenance crews keep the fairways in tip top condition. The stillness of the air keeping the grassy pollen laden air hanging around longer than normally could be expected. Our route takes us north along the Queen Kaʻahumanu Hwy, Then west at Kawaihae Road to Waimea rising in altitude all the time. The dry brown slopes turning into green pastures as we do so. From Waimea we turn northeast towards the northern coastline until we reach the little historic town of Honoka’a.

On first sighting this is a captivating town with a very obvious Japanese influence. Remnants of Japanese and Portuguese culture remain left over from the bygone sugar cane industry. The small population of 2-3000 is mixed but dominated by Asian and White residents. Since the demise of sugar cane as the main agricultural product, the district went into decline. In need of reinventing itself pineapple made a resurgence and coffee, papaya, macadamia nuts as well as tea have added to the mix. Like Waimea cattle ranching plays an important part in the towns economy. Now cacao is being successfully grown here there is potential for this to add to the tourism industry and home grown consumption. The global cocoa beans market is valued at USD 13.54 billion for 2023 for a total of 5 million tons and is projected to reach USD 23.54 billion by 2030. But political instability and climatic conditions play a big part with the yield only 4.5 million tons in 2024 due to smaller harvest volume in Africa. Ghana, Nigeria, and Cameroon producing approximately 70% of the world’s cocoa beans.

Here we are though in this tiny town of Honoka’a that has turned its Main Street into a historic shopping district. Between the buildings there are enticing glimpses of the Pacific Ocean. Honoka’a is known in Hawaii for its musical festival that hosts Hawaiian, classical, folk and jazz musicians from around the state. Our first stop off is a quaint book shop, the only one in town and a recent one at that. The shop assistant/owner, a retired medical research scientist tells us the store is well patronised, good to hear a successful story in a town seeking revival. I find a children’s book with local character and a good life message to take home to Lincoln our approaching four years great grandson.

Then on to the main course chocolate. The shop’s assistant is well versed in chocolate making, guiding us through the different blends from plain milk and dark concentrations. They also have a few flavoured blends using bourbon and rum. They also use goats cheese, in one blend, not to my liking at all. The 70% plain dark chocolate is my personal favourite, but the 85% not being as bitter as my usual experience came in a close 2nd. The rum and bourbon blends showed a real talent for showcasing those flavours, anyone who enjoys those spirits would thoroughly enjoy them.

Tasting over and purchases made we ask for recommendations for lunch and are directed to “I Luv Dumplings” a Japanese restaurant with an Hawaiian twist. I order the Gyoza pork dumplings and steamed yuzu pork buns Japanese style filled with lime marinated braised pork, delicious!

Time to drive back to Waimea and down the hill to our shared home. We are back just a short while when out of the blue, loud alarms go off on all our phones in unison, tsunami alert. Tsunami ‘s in my world happen in some far off exotic places, not right here around me, so it is with some anxiety and disbelief that we tune into the local TV where breaking news is reporting of a substantial earthquake registering 8.7 off the coast of eastern Russia near the Kamchatka peninsula. The predicted effects of this event would see analyst suggest that waves up to 10 feet could be expected to hit the Hawaiian islands. Not only that but there would be a wrap around effect that could cause the waves to hit all of the various islands low lying areas. Of course this means tourist resort areas and beaches. A quick check and a confirmation call from our property manager is all we need to know that we are indeed in the evacuation zone. Do we stay or do we go? That is the question, we decide to wait it out for a while to see how the situation develops. The TV presenters are pushing the seriousness of the situation, one going as far as to say have no doubt, this is the real deal. Further calls with our property manager have us realising that we need to start packing an overnight case including passports, valuables etc. next question where to go? Amanda’s brother Gary and sister in law Tracey are isolating from Covid up in their home town of Waimea. Since we have no where else to go, Gary and Tracey graciously allow us to camp on their spacious front porch. The tension is mounting as we load the rental car with our overnight bags and anything that maybe useful, like toilet paper and beach towels and head back to the elevated town of Waimea.

The roads out of the Mauna Lani and Mauna Kea resort region are streaming with traffic, long lines snaking up the hills towards Waimea. The trip taking far longer than it usually would. Once there we settle in on Gary and Tracey’s spacious front porch, to await information on the tsunami as it comes in on the local TV news feed. In the process we drink a little of his wine and order Thai food from a local restaurant. All the restaurants and hotels are full this evening, resulting in a long wait for food. The tsunami is due to hit at 7.00pm, an anxious wait ensues. By 8.00pm we are still waiting and by 9.30pm the warning is downgraded to advisory. We attempt to make a run for it after being advised by our property manager that the roads are now open. They are not and we are turned back by the boys in blue. Once again back at Gary & Tracey’s we are this time preparing to spend the night. For the next couple of hours we watch the news waiting for the break through that never comes. The new programs leave us hanging at advisory, no definitive “You can go home now” then they go dark. We search for any advice we can on line but to no avail. At 11.30pm we call it a day, it’s time to go home. Jimmy had earlier curled up in the back of the car, as our nominated driver I wake him, groggily he awakes and we load the car again. Say our goodbyes and head off into the pitch black night down the hill to our Mauna Lani home. This time there are few vehicles on the road, police and emergency service vehicles pass us in the opposite direction but there are no roadblocks or a police presence to stop us from our intended destination. As we drive into the Mauna Lani resort area we are relieved that the whole event is over. Soon the refugees are back in their own comfortable beds, snoring loudly. It’s not until 10.00 am the next morning that the emergency alert sounds on all our phones in sync giving us the all clear.

Our last night in Hana passes and we rise early enough to catch the sun rise. After breakfast we check out and begin our journey back down the Hana Highway to Kahului airport for our flight to Kona on the Big Island of Hawaii. This treacherous road like a metaphor for life itself has many twists and turns, obstacles to overcome, occasional accidents and incidents, natural beauty as well as blots on the landscape, detritus left by us careless humans. Over the last few days we have learnt that Gary has contracted COVID and along with him his wife Tracey. A real disrupter for them as they planned to host several events on their home turf. Mean while Katy is preparing to travel from Honolulu to Kona ahead of us in preparation for our arrival at the home she has rented for the family reunion just north of Waikoloa at Mauna Lani along this north western coastline of ragged lava rock and black sand beaches.

The trip down the Hāna Highway is more arduous than our upward trek, tourists are out day tripping by the score, local authorities are out working on maintaining bridges. The tight curves and one lane bridges mean constant slowing and stopping. With the steep fall into valleys now on our right and fern covered lava cliffs to our left. There are more larger vehicles on the road than on our upward trip making passing at some points a tight squeeze.

5G coverage is non existent along the whole length of road. At about the 2 hour point we pause for a comfort stop, no road side rest stops along this highway. Instead a little colourful store, with one single porta-potty in the back yard. There only requirement for use a purchase from the kiosk selling cooling drinks, fresh whole fruit and snacks. I buy a mango smoothie that quenches my thirst and hunger. One upward traveller has given up on hearing that an accident has occurred on the road, we assure him that there are only road works, this is born out by the kiosk attendant who googles for information on any serious road blockages and comes up negative. Reassured the young travellers continue Hana-ward.

Back on the road it’s not long before we reach the outskirts of Kahului, we find a food stop for a quick bite to eat and then a gas station, another Americanism, then onto the airport in plenty of time for our flight.

Tip for travellers with multiple flight destinations anywhere in the USA, try to obtain TSA pre approval. Jim and Susan have it and breeze through while Mandy and I don’t and it’s a long arduous, chaotic journey through security. It seems the rules are constantly changing, shoes & belts on or off, laptops, iPads in bags or out. No one pays any attention to the signs, walking through while drinking cans of open soda. The guard stops them, saying sure take the soda through but no cans allowed. There are no bins either, and the unwitting are directed back to the airport entrance to dispose of their empty cans.

We snake our way forward in the crowded security area fans blowing warm air over us. Security officers are leaving their posts one by one until only one remains. Our turn comes, Amanda goes through but on my turn, firstly I’m asked if I’m over 75, not knowing why, I answer yes and am then directed to another scanner. It’s assumed over 75’s can’t raise their arms above their head, just asking would have saved a lot of time. On my second try, I set the alarm off, then I’m directed to remove my shoes, that are whisked away to who knows where. Another nearby victim receives his shoes back and he moves on, but after a few minutes it appears mine went on a one way journey. Finally I go through the scanner again, given the all clear I go hunting for my shoes and my patient wife. Note to self, get TSA approval on future visits.

Our flight is on time, just like our incoming flight by the time we reach peak altitude we descend towards the dry brown slopes of Mouna Loa. The Ellison Onizuka Kona International Airport at Keāhole is set on the western most part of the island of Hawaii, amongst ancient lava beds. That resemble a moonscape more than any other earthly place. After collecting our bags and a rental car, a replica of our last mode of transport we head east towards the Queen Ka’ahumanu Highway then north to our destination.

We are anxious to meet up with Katy who has flown in on an earlier flight from Honolulu but first we make a stop at the local Foodland market. Just to pick up a few essentials for dinner tonight and breakfast for tomorrow.

Our stay for the next eight days is at a holiday rental situated in a developed part of this otherwise desolate part of Hawaii’s west coast between Anaehoomalu Bay and Holoholokai Beach Park. The area now transformed into a green tropical paradise. With resort hotels, private residences and a golf course.

Mauna Lani has a rich history, originally settled centuries ago and later becoming a sacred area for Hawaiian royalty and a place of worship. The name “Mauna Lani” itself translates to “mountain reaching heaven,” reflecting its significance. The area features ancient fishponds, petroglyphs, and burial sites, showcasing its deep cultural and historical value. Today, Mauna Lani is also recognized as an eco-friendly resort committed to preserving Hawaiian culture and natural resources.

Katy greets us on our arrival at this idyllic home set amongst other similar properties nestled against the lush green of the golf course. The facilities of the four bedroom home each with ensuites are extensive and the view from the main living area and lanai (Alfresco or Patio) amazing. Stretching as it does in a panoramic view west to the ocean and north to Waimea and the western slopes of Mauna Kea

After a long day of automobiles, trams and planes (the boat is yet to come) we are content with a light meal and an early night. The island in welcome puts on a magnificent sunset to close out the day.

Our first morning and shopping for supplies is top of the agenda, eating in and enjoying each other’s company is top of the priority list for this trip.

Food shopping, soaking in the pool, a trip in the road registered electric 6 seater golf cart that allows us to motor around the complex and a late night BBQ is about all we can manage as the temperature rises to a warm 28c.

The next morning sees us drive north to Waimea, a town inland from the coast at about 810 meters elevation. At this height the area receives more rainfall and is cooler than sea level.

This area on the western slopes of Mauna Kea once supported several thousand native Hawaiians, who practiced subsistence farming and lived in thatched dwellings. As Europeans arrived they, traded trinkets for sandalwood as a result most of the sandalwood forests were harvested and the land became more suitable for grazing animals. In 1793 King Kamehameha received gifts of Californian longhorn cattle from British Captain George Vancouver. The cattle thrived, soon outgrowing their grazing grounds. Then In 1809, John Parker arrived in the area eventually becoming employed by the king to hunt and tame the out of control population of cattle. In 1815 Parker married Kipikane, the daughter of a high-ranking chief, and as a family developed what is now Parker Ranch, the largest cattle ranch in the area. The Spanish also had a hand in the development of this area, the early 19th century also saw the arrival from the Viceroyalties of New Spain and Rio de La Platz of the horse and spanish vaqueros (“cowboys”), bringing the traditional Euro-Latin culture of riding and roping skills. The king hired these vaqueros to teach Hawaiians herding and ranching skills, and by 1836 the island had working cowboys. Resulting in a unique Hawaiian cowboy culture.

Today Waimea is the center for ranching activities and “paniolo” (Hawaiian Cowboy) culture. The towns name meaning reddish water. The population around 10,000. The Parker Ranch now the largest privately owned cattle ranch in the United States. There are two main annual events in the town, a cherry blossom festival and a 4th of July Rodeo. Waimea is home to the headquarters of two astronomical observatories, located on Mauna Kea that can be seen clearly as we drive up to Waimea they are the W.M Keck Observatory  and the Canada-France- Hawaii Telescope. Waimea is also the headquarters of the International Lunar Observatory Association.

This is the home of Gary and Tracey, Amanda’s oldest brother. Now that they have contracted Covid Jimmy takes over the arrangements to scatter their parents ashes at sea as was their dying wish. We call in on Gary & Tracey to collect the siblings parents ashes, who after their travels from Oregon to Indiana and Maui have finally made their way to Hawaii’s big island.

Once we have the ashes at our shared house, the siblings decide to set them up to watch the sunset, then put them spend the night in the ohana unit (translates to granny flat) until the morning trip to the Kawaihae Marina where the pontoon boat Olahana will be waiting at the dock. Where their plans to scatter the ashes in the clear warm waters between Kauna’oa Bay and Hapuna Bay can at last be realised.

The next morning after gathering up Jim and Shirley from their overnight resting place we set off early.

The day is just perfect, no wind, clear blue skies. We can see for miles, Although the ever present cloud cover over Maui’s Haleakala peak persists bringing rain to Sandi in Hana but from our location the sparkling blue Alenuihaha Channel looks like glitteringly opalescent. The cinder cones that dot the arid brown slopes of the now extinct volcano Mauna Kea clearly stand out on our right as we drive north to Kawaihae Marina.

Our boat the Olahana with its all girl crew of two is standing by for us on our arrival. With a friendly wave and smiles around we board this very comfortable freshly minted pontoon boat. Besides being comfortably appointed with three powerful Yamaha 300 engines at the rear the vessel is obviously designed for speed as well as comfort.

Once onboard we meet our crew for the morning Tessa and Lea, Tessa the captain runs through the usual safety procedures and the boats facilities. While her mate Lea explains her role as a naturalist, with diverse interests in volcanology, oceanography and whales. We settle Mom & Dad in a comfortable part of the boat, heading off southwards down the coast. Through the marvels of modern technology, Sandi, Gary and Tracey are able to join us via FaceTime.

With the siblings hooked up they each pay tribute to their parents in their own way. Recalling their strong family focused attributes and the life lessons they instilled upon them so that they could all go out into the world able to cope with life’s many challenges. Sandi tells the story of their love for Australia that led to their wish for their ashes to be scattered off Hawaii. A place where father James spent time training as a navy pilot and later with mother Shirley they would spend a great deal of time visiting their three children that had relocated here. From this location together they could catch the strong ocean current that flows from Hawaii towards Australia known as the  Kuroshio Current, that carries warm tropical waters via Japan then into the North Pacific Current and eventually to the Eastern Australian coast..

The memorial words spoken, the crew take us further along the coast so that we are in sight of the Mauna Lani hotel and our lunch spot for later on in the day. The day has remained calm, Hawaiian slack key guitar once again accompanies our journey as we motor back to the Kawaihae Marina.

Lunch is at the Mauna Lani Beach Club, that just a short while ago we could see from our ocean view point.

Now all a tad tired from the long emotional day we retire to the shared house for a soak in the pool, another glorious sunset, a home cooked meal of shrimp burritos and an early night.

A bright early start to the day this morning. Even the little muddy green and red palm finch that taps religiously at our window every morning, didn’t wake us. His tap tap tapping usually acting as our alarm clock right on 6.30am. Flying in from his nearby palm tree home as the sun comes up he daily faces his nemesis reflected in the mirrored windows of our apartment suite Whether the little avian perceives a threat from his own reflection or just enjoys listening to his own tapping sound we will never know.

A pleasant surprise awaits us as we leave for Honolulu airport for our trip to Maui, our taxi driver from previous visits is here to pick us up. I recognise him immediately, he’s name is Jimmy and he’s hasn’t changed a bit in the years since our last trip. He soon transports us all, with our luggage, to the Hawaiian airlines domestic airport terminal. There are no unforeseen hiccups with just a short wait before take to the air on our Hawaiian airlines flight 226 to Kahului, Maui. It seems just as we reach peak altitude that we are touching down again. The plane lands with a shake rattle and roll as the crafts wheels hit the tarmac and we are once again safely on the ground. Once we pickup our bags it’s a short tram ride to the rental car pickup area, a big improvement to the buses used in previous trips. At Alamo rental car depot the vehicle pickup system is highly automated. We pick up our designated car from rows of various models lined up in the garage, on this occasion a Nissan Altima. Now the fun part loading our suitcases and associated carryon bags into the trunk of the car, note the Americanism here, we’ve left the land of the boot behind. After just a little pushing and shoving the four various sized suitcase fit snugly into the car, along with some of the carryons. Amanda’s brother Jimmy takes the wheel, I set my phone navigation system for the nearest Foodland grocery outlet and we are on our way. The Foodland stores here are not connected to the Australian brand of the same name but are everywhere here, selling a wide range of groceries, alcohol and other convenience products. Even, as it turns out ready made sandwiches & wraps to go. My phones GPS calls out the directions, but using kilometres or parts there of between turns, Jimmy handles the conversion easily and we are soon at our destination. Since it’s now midday we pickup some lunch and healthy snack foods, and some not so healthy ones, to fuel us for the 2 hour 30 minute scenic drive along Maui’s northern coast line to Hana on the north western tip of the island. The remote destination is only 84km or 52 miles but the road is narrow and so full of sharp bends and turns, that we have to continually stop or slowdown to give way to oncoming traffic.

This is the wet side of the island, the entire trip zig zags through dense green jungle on both sides with occasional glimpses of the ocean on the downward slope to our left and cascading waterfalls on our right. Feral invasive bamboo, has spread out over many hillsides creating a sea of lime green clumps of gently swaying foliage. Delineated by shadowy outlines, giving the moving carpet depth and texture. A beautiful scene as the clumps flow in unison with the breezes. Problem is that it is these plants with their running root reproduction process that is killing off native species by crowding out the sunlight above and strangling their root systems below.. There are many waterfalls or water courses along the way collecting water from the steep rain soaked hills that send their runoff down towards the ocean. For each of these waterfalls or water courses there is a bridge, 59 of them to be exact, 46 are restricted to one lane only. These bridges in most cases date back to 1910 and are often under repair as the constant movement of water drags rocky debris down the slopes. Besides the bridges there are 620 curves, keeping Jimmy in a state of constant awareness. Luckily none of us suffer from car sickness, but the warmth and constant swaying of the car left to right makes one a little sleepy. For me the ever changing landscape keeps my eyes from closing throughout the trip. There are many plants we recognise from Australia, like the African Tulip tree with its scarlet bloom, and towering eucalyptus with pink striated trunks, reminiscent of the snow gums in Australia’s high country. Flashes of bright red yellow tipped Heliconia blooms stand out, drooping down on their pliable stems. While rope like jungle vines hang from the thick lush jungle above. In places below the jungle canopy ferns cling to the sheer lava cliffs, still moist from recent rains. It seems that we are driving through an ancient prehistoric world where rainforest meets the black lava sands of the ocean.

Along with the ever changing tropical landscapes and the quick stops to snap a waterfall the time goes by quickly. Hana is situated on the coast, directly off the highway that has now turned south, reaching a substantial bay with Waikoloa Beach at the northern end and Hana beach at the southern end. The township centre is sandwiched between the coast and the highway. According to the 2020 census 1526 people lived here in one of the Hawaii’s most remotest settlements. The population has declined since then to a mere 796. A downturn that started with the pandemic’s 8 month lockdown and became further exasperated by the 2023 Lahaina fires. Fires that wiped out a whole community reliant on tourism as its main source of income. Of course there is much more to Maui than Lahaina, and tourism is needed more than ever to rebuild these devastated communities.

Once we locate the hotel, now known as the Hyatt Maui Hana resort, we settle in to our ocean view room, more of a cottage or small cabin. A free upgrade from the garden view rooms we had previously booked. The views from the cottage are stunning as is the surrounding property, even more stunning than I remember from our last visit here in 2016. After making contact with Amanda’s sister Sandi I head to the pool with Jimmy, as our services are not required, while Amanda unpacks and Susan attends to some laundry.

The temperature here is maybe 1-2 degrees cooler than Honolulu tapering off as the sun goes down. For the first time I’ll wear long pants for dinner, to be had at “The Ranch” restaurant adjacent to the hotel. Besides us four travellers, sister Sandi, Kaua, Tania with their two boys Cayman and Kingston are present. Cayman now a tall handsome teenager, who suffers from ADHD is intently focused, he proudly tells us he writing a book based on the world’s mythological creatures. His other passion is cinematic costume design and the art of making those designs come to life using the basic materials he has to hand. Then there is Kingston a small energetic blond 8 year old version of his Dad, Kaua. Living here it’s no surprise that he is half fish being introduced to the water at a very early age. Kingston on our last visit just a rather large bump in his mother tummy when we last saw this family in 2017. The restaurant has some delicious fresh food, ribs, steaks, burgers and salads very much in the American style. Amanda and I enjoyed the fish sandwich all eaten outside, cabana style in the breezy tropical warmth.

The next day starts off slowly, a lazy breakfast that extends into brunch. On our way back to our room the gardeners are trimming the coconut palms, quite a feat for these chainsaw wielding men dangling at 15-20 meters off the ground. Palm fronds fall to the ground along with seed pods that once held golden tentacled flowers thick with baby coconuts. These weird natural art forms lay scattered on the ground to be gathered up and composted but would look wonderful dried out and featured in floral art displays.

The extensive lawned grounds are also hunting fields for a small white egret, they saunter around the grassy areas looking for small grubs or worms. They spread out, each giving themselves a few square metres of space, disputes erupt in a flurry of feathers if they should wander into another birds territory. Momentarily disturbing the peace before the intruder is chased off and the flock goes back to their hunting. You might see a mongoose or two shoot out of a hidden lair under one of the many cottage rooms, on its journey to another such hiding place. Mongoose came to the island in the 1800’s ostensibly brought in to control rats, unwanted immigrants that had found their way off the many ships that called into Lahaina port. They controlled the rats admirably but they then turned their attention to the rare tropical bird’s eggs that once inhabited these islands, becoming an invasive species til this day.

Next a visit with Sandi at her cute cottage in the jungle. The perimeters of her property are thick with tall tropical plant species, some fruiting, papaya, banana and avocado trees laden with glossy green fruit are there for the picking. Also flowering species like Heliconia, plumeria and white ginger, among others. There are other creatures lurking in the jungle such as this cute little gecko that paid us a visit. See photo below.

We spend the remainder of the afternoon at the hotel pool with Sandi, Kaua, Cayman and Kingston.

The day finishes back at Sandi’s with a Thai feast prepared by a local who married a Thai girl. The food is super fresh and delicious, definitely authentic Thai. We have acquired some wine along the way an international mix, of French, USA, New Zealand & Portuguese, sadly no Australian, in my humble opinion the promotion of cheap Australians wine here does us a disservice, not showing off the incredible depth of quality and range quality that we as a country has to offer, a missed opportunity. Seventeen year old Cayman joins us and regales us with stories of the mythological creatures he has a particular interest in. Surprisingly he knows of one Australian creature known as the Yara-ma-yha-who from aboriginal mythology that I have never heard of. I am very disbelieving until he produces internet proof? I’ve known a few Yah Who’s in my time but this one I’ve not come across. I’m left feeling this is all an elaborate joke, must investigate further when back at home. I tell him about the Murray River Bunyip, surprisingly he has heard of this mythological creature, that very few in our own community know about.

Darkness descends on this little remote jungle community and we say our farewells arranging to meet up again with Sandi tomorrow. Back at the hotel the grounds are lit up, lanterns illuminate the pathways. Other illuminations light up the tree canopies and sculpturally pruned tree trunks as we make our way downhill to our tropical cottage in the warm scented air.

Another day dawns, Hana time is sinking in, we are sloooooowiiiing down. Jimmy and Susan had already hiked up to Fagan’s Cross before we made it to breakfast. Phew! I am tired even thinking about it.

In the hills just west of the Hana township sits a stone cross overlooking the bay. The cross is known as Fagan’s Cross created in 1960 situated on Lyons Hill 166 meters above sea level. The cross is a memorial to Paul Fagan who established cattle farming in the district and built the resort known as the Travaasa, now the Hyatt where we are staying.

After breakfast of tropical, fruit and strong black American coffee. We walk down to Hana Beach Park with Jimmy & Susan, where a statue of Queen Kaahumanu stands looking inland.

Queen Ka’ahunanu lived between 1768 & 1832, a striking woman born of a high caste in Hawaiian society she is recognised today as a powerful figure in Hawaiian history. Well known for her political skill and significant influence during a period of major social and cultural change. Her leadership helped shape the unified Hawaiian Kingdom and its transition to a westernised society. A favourite wife of King Kamehameha I under whose rule the islands became unified. After his death in 1819 she became premier co-regent sharing governance with Kamehameha II.

The weather today is around 27c clouds heavy with moisture cover the surrounding green hills and out to sea where we can see the rain sheeting down to the steely grey ocean. Patches of blue sky appear above us as the sun tries desperately to banish the clouds. We are thankful for the cloud cover though as we make our way to Sandi’s cottage along the narrow roads that we need to traverse to arrive there. There are no footpaths along the way just a narrow verge that is mostly boarded by black lava rock-walls sprouting small lime green mossy looking ferns. Together we spend some more time with Sandi whose mobility is limited before making arrangements to transport her to the the hotel pool to spend the afternoon with us.

The homes we pass along the way, might look like shacks but they stand on plots of gold with median house price in Hana around US$1m.

Now hungry we make our way back to the hotel, passing a Thai restaurant known as Pranee’s, this is essentially two food trucks, one ancient looking that sit under a timber structure with decking that brings one to the level above the trucks wheels. The trucks are nestled into a hillside surrounded by a jungle like garden with mountain views. The food on offer is pictured on a menu board, so that diners can garner an idea of the type of food they will be eating. Some of the dishes on the display board are already sold out. We make our choices and are soon munching on some deliciously freshly made Thai food.

The rest of our last afternoon is spent by the pool with Sandi and Cayman who is staying with Sandi, his Nan, while the rest of his family is back in Kahului.

As night descends we are back at the Ranch restaurant for our final night with Sandi and Cayman in this magical place. Tomorrow we fly to the Big Island for the next stage of the family reunion.

I don’t want to bang on about the weather here , but it is damn good! Especially when I check the BOM for news of Mt. Barker where it is somewhat chilly. The arrivals continue, this time with Amanda’s brother, the eldest of the tribe Gary with wife Tracey. Kate has organised a late lunch/early dinner at one of Waikiki’s famous restaurant’s “House without a Key” so named for its openness to the off shore breezes and surrounding garden dining areas. The restaurant serves good quality lunch fare in an American style. Hamburgers, pizza, fish sandwiches and such like. After a relaxing morning we take a taxi into Waikiki, but due to road closures for an event happening the very same day we have to walk the last few hundred yards. Just as well, as we need to keep up a degree of exercise. The hotel Halekulani where the restaurant is situated is well known for its ocean views. An iconic Kiawe tree that sits inside the boundary of the hotels grounds and the boardwalk that separates the hotel from the ocean started life in 1887. Still standing 138 years later the treasured tree suffered some storm damage in 2016. Through the miracles of modern technology and the fact that nature had ensured that the roots had not severed their connection to the earth below its gnarled trunk now stretches horizontally along the sea wall. Where once again it sprouted in a vertical direction towards the life giving sun. Where its branches would fan out to provide an umbrella like canopy over a stage set for an Hawaiian band and a single hula dancer. Once at the venue two more of our guests arrive for the meal and the afternoon entertainment. On this occasion it is Amanda’s nephew Kaua and wife Tania, who have flown over from Maui to attend the event. Kaua is the son of Amanda’s sister Sandi, who is unable to travel at this time, and whom we will be visiting on the next leg of our trip.

I am not really a cocktail person, with one exception, I do love a good Pina Colada somehow it evokes the tropics for me. Maybe it’s the coconuts.

The meal over, Kate has pulled some pretty big strings to have us all front row for the entertainment.

The Hawaiian band warms us up before a former Hawaiian Miss Universe demonstrates her hula dancing skills, graciously she moves across the stage telling her story in the sinuously flowing movements of body, arms and hands. Her body clad in a colourful moo moo, multiple flowered leis around her neck and wrists along with a striking headdress, all moving simultaneously with the music.

The next day we are participating in a celebration of Jim Hoenig’s life. The event will take place in one of the communal gathering rooms at Kate’s apartment building. The morning is taken up with organising the room to accommodate the 38 people attending. Kate has organised the event to be catered for by a local restaurant that specialises in Turkish cuisine. It’s a little chaotic as everyone chips in with their ideas about how the layout should be. The room is quite small with some heavy furniture. Of course the caterer does this everyday, when she arrives she assesses the situation in a matter of seconds, sorting us all out along with the room, before we know it the room is looking fantastic. With decor quite homely and white roses in glass vases on the tables the look is representative of a small family restaurant. I am in charge of streaming a playlist to the tv sound system that I have previously connected to ensure no hiccups, I double check that this will work as we have one key song to play once the final memories are shared. Those final words to be presented by Amanda and I. Guests start to arrive just before 11.00am. After a commemoration by a well known Hawaiian judge, speakers relay their memories of Jim and the influence he has had on the legal system in Hawaii particularly as it relates to Family Law and mediation practices in resolving difficult conflicts. Also his work in the prevention of malpractice and importantly his and Kate’s foundation. The James Hoenig Scholarship at the University of Hawaii at Manoa’s William S. Richardson School of Law, is a scholarship endowed in 2006 by James Hoenig and his wife Kathleen Callaghan to support students interested in advancing mediation in Family Law. It provides opportunities to work with the Senior Judge of the Family Court. There are many tearful stories that relate to the loss experienced by Jim’s passing and the mentorship and commitment to these students, that Jim provided, some recipients of the scholarship who have become judges themselves. Our turn to speak comes, we want to give a different view of Jim as a brother in law and gracious host on our visits to Honolulu over the many years that we have visited these islands. We are both nervous and Amanda a little tearful, but we finish our script without too many stumbles. During the presentations the tv has become disconnected to my phone, making the smooth transition from spoken word to song difficult. Long seconds pass but I manage to reconnect and the song chosen by Kate to end the presentations rings out from the speakers. The song “Always Look on the Bright Side of Life” written by Eric Idle of the Monty Python crew for the film Life of Brian. A personal favourite of Jim’s and a representation of his quirky sense of humour.

After the song, we enjoy Istanbul’s spicy cuisine, consisting of marinated, lamb, wagyu beef and chicken skewers, pitta bread with dips of hummus, eggplant and spicy tomato, a fruity lettuce salad of mulberries, strawberries, blueberries and tomatoes with a tangy dressing. The best is always saved for last with a Turkish version of baklava a traditional Greek and Turkish desert with subtle differences with the main ingredients, a thin flaky pastry, honey, pistachios and butter.

The event is a resounding success with many accolades from participants thankful of the opportunity to say a few words about Jim and mix with other attending colleagues. That in some instances hadn’t seen each other for many years, but there fondness of Jim had now brought them together to share stories about Jim, his life and Kate his true love.

The remainder of the afternoon finds us relaxing poolside with the remaining family group. As the heat of the Sun dissipates making its way towards the horizon, cooling shadows fall across the scene and our thoughts turn once again to what to do for dinner. We settle on pizza and leftover salads and baklava. Even though there are a good many pizza purveyors in close proximity, having pizza delivered turns out to be a challenge. Eventually Jim and Susan take a walk to Whole Foods a local fresh food supplier and soon we are enjoying our final meal for the day in one of the apartment buildings outside cabana bbq facilities. Want an ice chest, no problem the staff at the building, have one waiting for us to keep our drinks chilled on this perfectly warm tropical night. One thing is for certain the staff that manage the guest suites and the buildings facilities are absolutely committed to providing the occupants with the best service and experience, again always with that Aloha spirit.

After a late breakfast at Tango’s a local restaurant at the foot of the apartment building followed by little light shopping at Ala Moana shopping centre the day is spent relaxing and packing for tomorrow’s flight to Maui. A dinner of Istanbul exotic leftovers, again out in the warm Hawaiian night under our now favourite cabana completes the evening. Before we all head for bed and an early start tomorrow for our flight to Maui. Where we will drive to Hana with Amanda’s brother Jim and wife Susan on Maui’s north coast to visit with Amanda’s sister Sandi and family Kaua, Tania, Cayman and Kingston.

A few days have passed since we arrived and we are both now in sync with the local time. We always marvel at the fact that we arrived before we left, but it hasn’t seemed to slow down the ticking clock. After our 8 year absence we expected to see great changes in the landscape along Ala Moana Blvd. We are happy to report that the changes that have occurred are fitting into the existing area well. A few more high rise apartment buildings with so called affordable housing accommodations have gone up while a number of rapidly deteriorating some would say historic buildings have now disappeared. The march of renewal continues further west along the coast despite the actual decrease in population, due mainly to the islands reliance on the mainland USA for most of its daily subsistence. The flow on inflationary trend resulting in cost of living pressures, driving the population to retreat to the mainland as the island becomes less and less affordable to the average Hawaiian resident. Meanwhile the decreasing lucky bathe in the warmth of a tropical sun cooled by light breezes on a seemingly endless cycle. The pandemic period now in the past, the last two years have seen tourism reach record high levels despite inflation raging in most western countries. Militarily speaking these islands are strategic gems in the US crown as a result receiving a great deal of mainland funding but still only coming second to tourism. The sugarcane industry is gone with agriculture now only a minor player in the states economy. In local news just in, the iconic Hawaiian pineapple still makes its way to the mainland USA via Amazon aircraft, that after resupplying their burgeoning Hawaiian business, had previously returned stateside, empty. Many other local manufacturers are taking advantage of this opportunity too. The locals we are told love chocolate, now with cocoa farms producing beans on the north shore access to larger markets is essential.

Honolulu boasts the largest outdoor shopping centre in the world, just a short walk from Kate’s apartment sits the Ala Moana shopping centre. With over 350 shops it boasts americas largest and most respected retailers, Bloomingdale’s, Macy’s, Marshalls, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, Ross Dress for Less, Saks Off 5th, and Target. Tourists and locals flock there to hunt for bargains or browse the extensive range of brands that outwardly always appear to be on sale. It’s no surprise that we find ourselves walking the avenues of the centre within the first days of our arrival. Mostly in our defence to shore up our communication options while here. With the high cost of using an Australian mobile service overseas it’s a pleasure to find the local telecom T-mobile can supply us with SIM cards for our phones for a fraction of the cost of extending the use of our Australian phones to the US.

The impetuous for this trip is twofold, both sad and joyous at the same time. With the recent passing of Kate’s beloved husband Jim the time for a family reunion seemed appropriate. Amanda’s brother Jim with wife Susan are the first to arrive from San Diego just hours after our landing.

The following day Kate has arranged for an off shore event taking us by catamaran into the waters directly out from her apartment on Ala Moana Boulevard. At the appointed time we make our way to a nearby marina to board the catamaran “Seascape” where the two man crew welcome us onboard. The weather is warm, clouds scud across the sky occasionally providing shady relief from a burning sun. Once we motor to a predetermined location we speak a few words in memory of Jim and Kate in a manner of speaking scatters Jim’s ashes wrapped in a neat package of Ti leaves into the waters of the Pacific Ocean. It’s an emotional moment, we toss yellow, pink and white rose petals onto the waters around the site, watching them glisten as they float alongside the diamond like flashes of reflected sunlight on the blue Hawaiian waters. After some quiet contemplation our captain Luke motors along the coast towards the Diamond head crater, eventually stopping opposite the iconic pink rendered Royal Hawaiian hotel, one of the oldest hotels in Honolulu, situated in the heart of Waikiki beach. From here we have a wonderful view of the islands southern coast line. On our return, the crew hoists the headsail taking advantage of the breeze to gently sail us back to the marina. Hawaiian Slack key guitar music plays in the background as we glide through the serenity of the blue waters. The waters are full of activity this morning surfers catch a wave while others patiently wait for the next wave break closer in-shore. The colourful chutes of Para-sailers dot the sky as various other craft below make their way along the coast as we take in the serenity of this memorable moment in time.

Back on shore it’s time for a late lunch/early dinner, Kate has chosen a restaurant in the nearby Kaka’ako district. Once a native Hawaiian agricultural community with fishing, salt making and farming at its core. This gave way to an industrial district in the early 1800’s with foundries and blue collar workers. Now it is a vibrant inner-city neighbourhood where hip young Hawaiians come to shop, dine, and drink. Walkability and livability comprise the current ethos. The area now boasts pedestrian-friendly footpaths and lots of wide-open spaces. Around almost every corner street art adorns the old repurposed industrial buildings. Where lively events are a constant “happening thing” and there are scores of hip spots to eat and drink.

Moku in English means a small parcel of land or allotment, harking back to the days when farmers farmed those allotments after colonialism introduced the previously unknown idea of land ownership to the Hawaiians. Moku Kitchen’s ethos is its commitment to using fresh, local ingredients, fostering a strong farm-to-table approach. They partner with local farmers and fishermen and even grow some of their own ingredients in a rooftop garden, This commitment supports the local agricultural community and reduces the restaurant’s environmental footprint. We dine on fresh produce, like house made ravioli stuffed with sweet roasted pumpkin. Local Ahi or Mahi Mahi, served with potato fries and fresh garden salads. To top this off exotic cocktails and imported wine fill out the menu.

Amanda’s brother Jimmy spots a nearby chocolate tasting bar offering free tastings. He soon disappears with wife Susan to investigate. In Australia I don’t think one would be able to enter such a shop for the crowds clamouring to get in. Here in Hawaii the pace is much more relaxed, in the ever present Aloha spirit. Of course this irresistible opportunity can’t pass us by and we are soon picking from the extensive tasting menu. After more than a few samples we have learnt plenty about the new cacao industry in Hawaii. Crunch time comes and we have to make a choice, mine is coffee with crunch and Amanda’s orange and vanilla. Another day draws to an end as the Hawaiian sun sets on another tropical day.

The midwinter blues should be settling in by now. With cold grey skies threatening to dump more rain on the green drought that South Australia finds itself in after a record breaking dry season. But no, we’ve kept warm by reviving memories of our past trips to the Hawaiian islands. Who would have thought how much warmth a photograph can generate. Bringing back those days of luau’s, hula dancing and slack key guitar pickers, as we soaked up the eternal sun. Now after an enforced break, that started with a pandemic and morphed into worldwide upheaval we find ourselves ready to take to the air, Hawaii bound once again. The world hasn’t stopped turning, life goes on in every corner of the planet, change though is a constant. Families grow like trees branching out, babies are born, before you know it they have graduated, married and had children of their own. In our world the branches have spread across the planet, dropping seeds in Australia, Sweden and America. While those seeds are scattered widely, particularly in America, we are lucky that the nearest overseas family resides in the 50th US State, just 9 hours and 25 minutes away from Sydney by Boeing 737. The Aloha spirit awaits, the word itself wrapping, love, affection, peace, compassion and mercy all into one unique greeting. That can be used as a welcome or farewell. More now than ever the world needs to embrace aloha, and we can’t wait to be bathed in its warm light. We have long found that Honolulu is the without doubt the friendliest gateway to the USA, the holiday mood palpable the instant you step through onto US soil. Even usually dour border control officers have a welcoming smile on their faces. This is still in the future as we make our way along glistening rain soaked roads under a pale cold southern sun to Adelaide international airport.

We arrive in Sydney as the sun is going down washing the horizon in an orange glow that reflects off the cities glass clad buildings. Once on the ground we make our way to the international terminal. After all these years by means of a bus, no modern monorail for this countries preeminent city, that sees millions of international visitors daily. The cool of the night is drawing in as we board the bus, for a chilly ten minute ride. Our next challenge in this tricky game of international transit is to navigate border control’s automatic passport station. Passports at the ready a steady queue of passengers file through the gates, like sheep to be shorn. My turn comes and I’m too slow off the mark exiting the facial scan, alarms beep loudly, as this worldly traveller shrinks to the size of General Tom Thumb. I don’t look back as I make a hurried exit. Once clear I look back, Amanda is stuck repeatedly scanning her passport as it rejects her attempts each time. Seconds that start to seem like minutes pass, with fidgeting passengers behind her before an officer realises there is a log jam at her gate. Eventually coming to her rescue by advising she presents her US passport instead. Magically that works and she’s through, a little bewildered by the process that put her US citizenship ahead of her Australian, but that’s the mixed up digital world we live in.

A huge mechanical face in motion stares at us from an optical store, as we pass through the high end retail area, on our way to the Qantas lounge. Where time passes as our flight to Honolulu approaches.

The next leg of our journey is soon upon us, all goes well as we settle in for a meal and a movie. Meal service is disappointingly slow, we are half way through the two hour plus Bob Dylan bio pic before we see food. With flight time around 9 hours we desperately want to enjoy some sleep before we arrive to relive the 14th of July. Reliving the early Bob Dylan years took us back to our lives as teenagers. The Cuban missile crises, JFK’s assassination and importantly to us teenagers the musical and cultural upheaval those times brought with them. Bob Dylan penned it all, the times they were definitely changing.

We have started our descent in to Honolulu as I write this, a shaky landing but we are here.

Our entry to this US territory is smooth, a short ride on a wiki wiki bus, a far cry from the mundane ride between terminals in Sydney. Maybe they should call them Hoppers (think kangaroo). We disembark and are through border control in a flash with Aloha’s all the way. Suitcases collected, sunglasses on we walk out of the airport to a 30c tropical day. Taxi’s line the kerbside cab rank, no waiting as a diminutive Hawaiian of chinese ancestry loads our bags into the back of a Tesla, our first electric car ride. Safely within we are quietly whisked off to the Hokua building on Ala Moana Blvd where sister Kate is waiting to greet us. Our holiday reunion begins!

Last night we celebrated with a lobster dinner at one of the local seafood restaurants in the Main Street. With the summer season nearly over and holiday makers back at work only the grey nomads are out and about. In the restaurant a quick glance tells us that 95% of the diners are older than us, wishful thinking you may say, but we are pretty certain we are on the money. Talking about money the lobster this season is once again sky high in price, having given Australia the cold shoulder for a number of years. Like a petulant parent the Chinese have lifted their 200% tariff from the industry after we miss spoke about wanting transparency over the origins of Covid 19. We have done our penance, eaten our greens and are allowed back at the table. They must have also had an issue with wealthy Chinese beer and wine drinkers as well, adding hefty tariffs to our barley and wine exports. The last few years have left Australia with a surfeit of these products with prices plummeting. For a short time Lobster in particular fell in price, but now it seems we have a 200% tariff put on us the poor loyal consumer. So much for a free market economy.

This morning we are travelling north again after two days of re-discovering Robe. First we have to buy some local lobster to take home and take a look at a local artists gallery, where we hope to find a set of drink coasters that he has designed with a particular Robe vibe. One can never have too many drink coasters now, can one! The artist a Terry Johnson has more than a few coasters hanging around, luckily we are off loading our worldly goods at the moment or we would be trying to fit a sizeable painting into the already bursting car. Maybe we will be back with a bigger car!

Once we start moving again we take the coastal ports highway to Kingston SE. There are two Kingston’s in South Australia, the SE indicates the south eastern one. The other now known as Kingston on Murray. The landscape is typically coastal, native low growing coastal scrubby plants line the highway ranging from straw brown to deep red grasses, lime green fleshy leaved bushes and grey blue salt bush. A few low growing twisted eucalypts appear here and there. The limestone coast is an official wine district, as the name suggests the base rock is porous limestone that provides good drainage for grape growing but also contributes to a wines, acidity, minerality and freshness. All good qualities for an elegant wine with longevity potential. The coastal scrub soon gives way to substantial vineyards rolling away from us towards the seaside on our west, while on the opposite side huge plantations of radiata pine start to appear. A mixture of older trees and newly planted ones that look like they should be ready for harvest at Christmas time. Santa may have his workshop in the North Pole but his Christmas Tree farm is right here in sunny south eastern South Australia. The centre of this wine district is the rugged seaside town of Cape Jaffa but we are bypassing this today and driving straight to Kingston.

Kingston grew out of land owned by Archibald and James Cooke, who had ventured south in 1854 from Wellington on the river Murray to establish a port from where they would conduct shipping and trade. They returned to seek a grant of land to begin the private startup that the government granted two years later. The brothers and James’s wife sailed their cutter “Swallow” into Lacepede Bay and took control of 3496 acres with grazing rights to eleven miles of sea front. Then known as Maria Creek. They built a jetty (pier) and named their new port Caroline. While they grazed sheep for wool on the land they built a substantial wool store. They also instigated the building of a rail line between Kingston and Naracoorte an inland farming town on the main line to Adelaide. George Strickland Kingston surveyed a new town that would incorporate Maria Creek (named after the vessel Maria that became shipwrecked there in 1940 with all survivors massacred by the local aborigines that in turn sparked reprisals causing the death of an unknown number of indigenous people) and Port Caroline lending his name to the resulting town.

Today the town and district has a population of around 1700 with fishing, winemaking, sheep and cattle rearing as the economic main stays. But like Robe since overseas travel has become so expensive, attracts homegrown holiday makers and tourists in ever increasing numbers. The towns main beach stretches for several kilometres of pure white sand.

Norfolk Pine trees line the foreshore just as they do along many South Australian beaches even in Adelaide. The story goes that these pines grow quickly straight and tall. Canny sailors of exploratory ships in the 1700’s planted seedlings along the coast so that if any ships ran into trouble with the loss of a mast then the trunks of these trees would make an adequate replacement, how’s that for foresight!

In 1872 The government completed a lighthouse off shore on a reef off the promontory of Cape Jaffa to warn ships of the dangers of this reef ridden coast line. In 1973 Robe became the site of a new lighthouse and the Cape Jaffa one taken apart after 101 years of service to be reconstructed in Kingston as a maritime museum.

The buildings reflect the towns past, with no elaborate government buildings, or large pastoral mansions, maybe reflecting the very business like personalities of the Scottish Cooke brothers. Who also still owned property in Wellington and the Cooke Plains. The Royal Mail Hotel built in 1867 serviced the local workers from the railway station, demolished in 1987 and the wool store next door that still remains.

Before we leave town, a must stop off is the Big Lobster, known as Larry by the locals. At 17 metres (56 feet) tall the sculpture made from fibreglass and steel is regarded as one of the most impressive of Australia’s big tourist attracting objects. Larry looks a bit faded from his long life (since 1979) in the sun and coastal environment, but otherwise comes up well in the photograph below.

We continue north along the coast road that runs along the salt lagoons to our west, the low growing coastal foliage hides most of the view. Occasionally we see glimpses of white sand dunes in the distance when breaks in the foliage open up to fields of purple tinged brown grasses. In one such field with even brighter burgundy tussocks of grass we spot two horses, one a grey trotting along through the field against the blue sky, a magical sight. These roads are narrow, travelled at speed by large SUV’s towing caravans as well as semi trailers, making stopping for picture ops dangerous. As we come closer to the northern end of the string of lagoons we have a better view as they become bigger and closer to the road. The grey/green waters spread out for kilometres along our western side, outlined by white sands and sea foam. On the eastern side dry salt pans become more evident, they can be strikingly pink if the right conditions are there for the salt tolerant algae or as today just blindingly white as they reflect the baking sun. There are two large lakes at the head of the lagoons, lake Albert and lake Alexandrina. We are stopping at Meningie, a town on the shores of Lake Albert, where we will locate the lakeside park for some picnic lunch.

The town as in most Australian settlements started life as a service center for graziers and a staging post on the route between Adelaide and Melbourne. The Ngarrindjeri people lived here for thousands of years before white man appeared on the scene. From oral history it is understood that they made their shelters and canoes from reeds growing in the lake shallows. Around 1843 the South Australian company took control of the land around Lake Albert. That had mostly seen sheep and cattle pass through the land on the way to Adelaide markets. Or to restock wool growing areas. The towns survey took place in 1866 with the first school opening in 1869, the name Meningie comes from the local aboriginal language and means “Muddy Place” the first wooden Jetty came on line in 1867. With Lake Albert covering 168sq kilometres (68 sq miles) and Lake Alexandrina covering 649sq kilometres (251 sq miles) paddle steamers soon became the preferred mode of transport between Meningie and other ports around the lakes system. But by 1914 this had totally ceased, and Meningie’s port days had come to an end. Thankfully there are still a number of enthusiasts restoring Murray River wooden paddle steamers, so one day we might yet see the likes of these historic machines back on the lakes in a tourist capacity. Now the town is known for its dairy industry with year round irrigated pastures perfect for milk and dairy products, other irrigated crops as well as a fishing fleet also add to the towns economy.

Whilst having lunch we spot an ice cream shop across the Main Street. As soon as I see the ocean and feel the warm air on my skin, my mind wanders to ice cream. Unconscious memories of childhood days at the English seaside no doubt. We had found an ice creamery in Robe but the shop curiously never seemed to be open. We decide to indulge and take some time eating our icy treat while walking along the lake shore.

On our way back to the car we catch a glimpse of a statue of a tall bird, we immediately think emu, but as we come closer we discover it is indeed an ostrich. This ostrich has a saddle and a story to tell.

Below is that story taken from a nearby placard;

The Birdman Bushranger of the Coorong

“John Francis Peggotty 1864-1899

South Australia’s history has only ever been able to claim one genuine bushranger, but he was remarkable – he was the only one to pursue his career on the back of an ostrich!

John Francis Peggotty, the son of an Irishman was born prematurely in 1864 in County Limerick. Surprisingly he survived, but only grew to the size of a 7 year old boy.

As a young man, Peggotty exploited his stature, climbing down the chimneys of wealthy Londoners, robbing them of their jewellery and parading in his ill-gotten gains.

After sailing to Australia in 1890 he continued his lucrative career along the majestic Coorong, riding proudly on the back of an ostrich – one of the many set free when the market for fashionable ostrich feathers ceased.

MR P’ IN HIS GOLD CHAINS WOULD DISAPPEAR IN A FLASH ON THE BACK OF AN OSTRICH

Murder and Mayhem

The reason for Peggotty’s choice of an ostrich became evident when he often soared away from police through the shifting sand dunes of the Coorong.

The Birdman of the Coorong, as he became known, was soon held responsible for the robberies of many a lonely Coorong traveller and the murder of at least two. Peggotty remained at large until 17th September 1899, one day when he tried to hold up a local fisherman, Henry Carmichael. Unfortunately for Peggotty, Carmichael had a rifle. After a short chase and shots fired, Peggotty and his mount both came to an unglorified end.

To this day his body has never been found…

is it still lying in the lonely wilderness of the Coorong, laden with a fortune of gold and jewellery?”

Time to move on, we are just 133 kms (83 miles) from home via a dual lane freeway and the end of our journey.

Until next time…..

Note : I have noticed that there is now an option on the email. To read on Blog or reader, either of these buttons enables the pictures to be seen along with the story. Cheers Tony

Our final destination Robe sits on South Australia’s rugged Limestone Coast. Yes this is a wine district too! Robe might be little but it does have quite a remarkable history. It is Tuesday our 9th day away and after yesterday’s long drive decide to spend the day in catching up on the ever growing stream of emails and take a tour of Robe’s historic spots tomorrow to add visuals to the towns history.

The town overlooks picturesque Guichen Bay, first charted in 1802 by French explorer Nicolas Baudin, as part of a major scientific expedition approved by Napoleon Bonaparte. Baudin spent some time off and on the South Australian coast, leaving a rock carved with his name on it on Penneshaw beach, Kangaroo island. Baudin originally named the bay Ances des Albatross, but when Baudin died on the way home, the French decided to name the bay to honour one of their admirals, the Comte de Guichen.

It is thought that the Bunganditj and Meintangk indigenous peoples occupied this area for as long as 30,000 years. Shell middens can still be seen in the Little Dip Conservation Park, just outside of Robe, concluding that a large and stable population lived along this coastline. Sustained by diverse and plentiful local food sources such as shellfish and muntries. Muntries are a prolific bush food, the aborigines call them emu apples or native cranberries. The berries grow on a low growing shrub found on the south coast of Australia.  When ripe the berries are green with a red tinge and have the flavour of spicy apples.

Seal fur hunters working out of Tasmania visited Guichen Bay long before the colony of South Australia started in 1836. The famous overlander named Charles Bonney who had pioneered the overland muster of sheep from Victoria to Adelaide, passed through with a mob of cattle in 1839. In 1846 the town grew out of a survey commissioned by the South Australian Government by Thomas Burr seeking an ideal port location in order to meet the needs of pastoralists settling in the area.

The town gained its name from the then unpopular Governor Frederick Holt Robe, who inspected the area in January 1846 and had the final say on Guichen Bay as the port site. Three months later, the towns layout had been drawn up and the first allotments sold at auction by October. Within days, a small party of government officials arrived, led by distinguished British solder Captain Gerald Villiers Butler, his appointment as Government Resident saw him take charge of an area covering some 6000 square kilometres. Butler had brought along Charlotte his pregnant wife, four children, three servants, a nanny and a female cook. They had traveled by sea on the cutter Lapwing but due to rough weather remained on the ship while the men set up camp on shore. Charlotte, her children and female retinue spent a number of days aboard the Lapewing until the weather abated allowing them to be rowed ashore to their new home that consisted of a tent on the foreshore.

The town quickly became populated from the east by Scottish and Irish migrants travelling by bullock cart. New arrivals from London came by ship on an 8 week perilous journey by sea.

After a slow start, Robe became one of the most important ports on Australia’s southern coast, serving a large hinterland that stretched into western Victoria along the path that we had taken to arrive here. In the late 1850s, more than 15,000 Chinese landed in the bay on their way to the Victorian goldfields, as part of one of the most remarkable treks in Australian history. They travelled via Robe after an edict by the Victorian governor placed a tax of £10 per head on all Chinese immigrants landing at ports in Victoria. In recent times Chinese migrants have re-enacted the walk in memory of those determined gold diggers that died along the way.

In the ten year period up to 1866, wool worth more than £1 million also passed through the port, on its way to British mills. Shipping merchant George Ormerod, one of the most prominent figures in the development of the town handled most of the transactions. Originally from Lancaster, England he established his business in 1853, operating a warehouse and store on the Royal Circus, that served as a roundabout for teamsters delivering wool from outlying stations. During peak season, their wagons often stretched several kilometres out of town while they waited to unload.

Today Robe’s Royal Circus serves as the towns central location commemorating Robe’s maritime heritage, and shipwrecks that occurred in the treacherous waters off the Limestone Coast. Taking pride of place are bronze bust sculptures of Baudin and one of England’s most famous navigators, Matthew Flinders, who visited the bay a few days after Baudin. They stand alongside a cannon believed to have come from the Dutch ship Koning Willem II, that came to grief during a storm in the bay in 1857, resulting in the tragic loss of 16 crew members.

Overlooking the Royal Circus is the Customs House, one of more than 70 heritage listed buildings in the town and surrounding area.

The list includes Robe’s most famous landmark, the Obelisk, erected in 1855 to guide ships into the bay. The Obelisk stands proudly on the point of Cape Dombey and was constructed by local builder George Shivas at a cost of £230. The Obelisk created a landmark to navigate the entrance into Guichen Bay and to store rocket fired lifesaving equipment for stricken ships. Later it assisted passing ships with navigation, standing at a height of 12 metres it is easily visible 20 kilometres out to sea. In 1862, after complaints by the Captains that the then white Obelisk could be difficult to differentiate from Long Beach’s white sand hills, the authorities repainted it in alternate red and white bands.  Today the Obelisk is in danger of falling into the sea, local authorities have decided not to attempt to save it at this time.

The town’s first summer holiday home, Karatta, designed by colonial architect Edward Angas Hamilton, is a grand two-storey home built in 1862 by Henry Jones from nearby Binnum station just so his wife could escape the inland heat. In the early 1870s, Governor Sir James Ferguson leased the house as a summer residence for his family. Binnum sheep station covered 10 thousand hectares of land primarily used for sheep grazing.

As the first Catholic priest appointed permanently to serve the region, Father Julian Tenison Woods frequented Robe often. Aside from serving his parishioners, the talented scientist spent many hours exploring the countryside on horseback, with a geological hammer tucked into his saddle bag alongside his bible. Woods served the area for ten years from 1857, overseeing the building of St Mary’s Star of the Sea, one of the oldest Catholic churches in South Australia.

Originally based in Penola, he famously encouraged a young governess by the name of Mary MacKillop to open a school and establish the Sisters of St Joseph of the Sacred Heart. As previously mentioned Mary became Canonised in 2010 as Australia’s first saint.

Robe’s Bank, this fine Italianate building, pictured below, constructed of stone with stucco masonry, was designed by Edmund Wright, the architect for some prominent buildings in Adelaide. Built in 1859 for the Bank of South Australia, that opened the following year. Robe historian Kathleen Bermingham wrote that “this was one of the largest banking institutions outside Adelaide, with a succession of popular managers and accountants”.

Cobb & Co also ran horse drawn coach services to Robe, the Bush inn licensed between 1861 & 1871. Just one of several roadside inns that served teamsters who bought wool bales into Robe piled high on bullock & horse drays during the busiest years of the port of Robe. At some time during the Cobb & Co era the inn became licensed as the Newton Arms.

Despite promising beginnings, Robe fell into decline within a few decades of settlement because of the establishment of rival ports and railway systems that bypassed the town, and struggles in the pastoral sector. Then in the early 1900s, the town reinvented itself as a holiday destination, promoted as the Sanatorium of South Australia, because of the therapeutic value of its sea air and salt waters. As more families acquired motor cars in the 1920s, Robe became a popular spot for ‘motor camping’, with a new progress association setting up the first official camping ground, nestled in dips and hollows between the town and the West Beach.

In 1921 after the Great War, the citizens of Robe came together to honor the war dead of their town and district by commissioning a war memorial. Like most country towns they had lost men in this horrific war. War memorials all over the country from the largest to the smallest towns began being erected and they still stand as a reminder today of the lives lost in both wars.

The late 1930s saw a change in fortune for the area’s farmers when scientists carrying out research near Robe confirmed the cause and worked out a cure for coast disease, a wasting condition that affects livestock grazed in coastal areas. The CSIRO established a field station on Bob Dawson’s small farm after he volunteered to set aside some land and sheep. In a breakthrough of international importance, the research confirmed the condition to be caused by deficiencies in cobalt and copper. Bob received an MBE in 1950 for his contribution. He and his son Vic assisted with monitoring and writing reports for more than 40 years.

In the 1940s, the local economy further improved when commercial fishing took off. Robe is well known for southern rock lobster, but gummy sharks provided the first commercial catch. The sharks livers, provided an oil rich in vitamins to fortify military rations during World War Two. Lobster came into its own in the 1950s, when the fishing fleet grew substantially and exports began to the United States. The lobster we South Australians call Crayfish is one of the towns most sort after tasting experiences.

Another new era emerged in the 1960s, when surfing came to Robe. First held in 1968, the Robe Easter Surfing Classic is recognised as one of the oldest continuously held surfing competitions in the world, most likely only second to Victoria’s famous Bell’s Beach.

Today Robe is a trendy vibrant holiday town that has retained all the old world charm of yesteryear, mixed in with modern facilities. Hundreds of visitors descend on the town from Adelaide and surrounding districts during the summer months filling the Air-BnB’s and holiday rentals. The Main Street is filled with restaurants, cafes, surf shops and beach themed decor or clothing stores. The town has two old pubs the Caledonian inn, our choice for dinner tonight and the Robe Hotel over looking the bay.

Tomorrow we travel north to Stirling some 321 kilometres (199miles) via the scenic south coast road that takes us along the Coorong, a series of salt lagoons that stretch for 140 kilometres (87 miles). To be continued……