Month: August 2025

As warm tropical days and nights continue we are feeling privileged to be a guest of Kate’s in this beautiful part of the world. It is summer here but the holiday is over for local children as they go back to school or prepare for another college year. Tourists continue to pour in from the US mainland and all over the world to take advantage of the endless summer weather. During the day colourful yachts ply the waters off shore, while surfers ride the infinite waves that roll in like the ticking of a perpetual clock. Para gliders sail across the blue sky hanging from their multi-coloured silk chutes. While at night sunset dinner cruises take over the waters, glittering from bow to stern with illuminations whose reflections sparkle off the darkening waters. All adding to the revenue of this tourist driven state. Every Friday night starts the weekend off when the Rainbow Hilton, so called because of the rainbow design painted on the buildings side, puts on a spectacular fireworks display. While the locals lock up their dogs and shut their double glazed windows tight the tourists flock to the beach parks of Waikiki and Ala Moana to witness the event, or if you are very lucky you can watch from sister in law Kate’s apartment. These beach parks are sacred ground, public spaces, that cannot be privatised. There are almost nightly events, BBQ’s, family party’s, music of all kinds, gatherings large and small resulting in a city in a permanent state of holiday euphoria.

Meanwhile the ongoing saga with Kate’s aging Dodge Dart continues. The dealers service department after many phone enquiries from Kate calls her to let her know the car is at last available to be picked up, transmission problems all fixed, inspection carried out and good to go. The repair has taken about 10-12 days to be completed, with parts needing to be flown over from the mainland. The dealership is within walking distance, but Kate has to rush over to pick the good to go vehicle up, as there is a time limit to do so after which the dealer will charge $100 a day for the vehicle to be on their lot. Kate wants to have the car cleaned as well, apparently the dealer service/repair doesn’t include a complimentary clean. We have arranged to meet for dinner at Tango this evening a restaurant located at the base of the building. After picking up the car the hour is late and the car wash closed, so Kate drives home in the dusty vehicle that has sat outside for the duration of the repair period, the drive is less than a mile in total. At dinner I ask Kate how the drive home went and if she felt the car performed as normal, she tells us that she felt that the brake pedal felt soft and that she had to push it to the floor in order to slow or stop the car. In addition when arriving home and parking the car a great deal of water dripped onto the car park floor, water that that Kate thought may have come from the aircon unit. Putting two and two together I suggested that the yellowish water could be brake fluid. We decide she should take a photo of the fluid and yes it is brake fluid. Now the car is again a non-drivable brick . Next morning the dealer is reluctant to collect the vehicle but eventually offers up a towing service that had less than satisfactory reviews. Taking matters into her own hands she calls her triple A road assistance service. Triple A had towed the car from the Pali only a couple of weeks prior and here they are again trying to tow the car again, this time from the Hokua apartment buildings undercover garage a couple of stories up. The tow truck is too high to enter the parking garage so the truck driver manoeuvres the car down the ramp using the emergency brake on the downward spiralling ramp. The car finally secured begins its journey towards the dealership by early afternoon. Kate is understandably not happy as the saga continues, the dealership reports that a brake line has split, and that the others could fail at any minute, due the dealer says to the age of the vehicle. After 13 years of annual services and safety checks the dealership should know the care inside out. For safety sake the service department recommends replacing all of the brake lines. The vehicle has spent more time at the dealership in the past 5 months than in the parking garage, each time repairs are carried out, deposits paid, vehicle safely inspections are undergone, but none have shown critical wear on a very important life saving function of the car, the ability to stop! Those brake lines do not age 13 years over night, don’t you know! The Dart is now back at the dealership awaiting repairs, life goes on even in paradise, the aloha spirit not extended to vehicles, the Cutter Dodge(y) dealership asleep at the wheel.

Shopping at Ala Moana continues with forays into the mall whenever we have the opportunity. Considering the exchange rate is not in our favour there are still bargains to be found, if you know what to look for. With the added bonus of more choice and a bigger range of products than we see in Australia. Online shopping hasn’t yet killed off this mall. One of the attractions or distractions are the collection of artworks dotted around the centre as well as the koi ponds to be found in various locations. Although many have now gone after renovations over the last 8 years. The Sculptural pieces are to be found in various courtyards as you wander around with painted murals adorning the sides of overhead walkways.

Earlier this week we discovered that Cirque du Soleil has established a residency in Waikiki. Amanda and I are long time fans, attending their performances whenever the troupe are in Adelaide. Experiencing one of their shows overseas is an extra special delight. Even more so now that the troupe are here performing a uniquely Hawaiian show based on the islands people, their culture and traditions. The show is named Auana (translating to wander, drift or move from place to place) a bit like Amanda and me at the moment. Performances playing for the foreseeable future at the Outrigger Beachcomber Hotel’s small theatre. We book tickets for Kate, Amanda and me for an early evening show this Friday. Cirque du Soleil’s own description has us anticipating an exciting event.

“Step into a world where reality bends and the spirit of Hawai‘i comes alive—welcome to ‘Auana, an enchanting journey brought to life by Cirque du Soleil. This spectacular show celebrates the essence of the islands through breathtaking artistry and awe-inspiring athleticism. Prepare to be captivated as a diverse ensemble of international and local talents delivers an exhilarating blend of acrobatics, laughter, mesmerizing hula, and soul-stirring music. 

The compelling narrative of ‘Auana unfolds across eight chapters, inspired by the mo‘olelo (stories) of Hawai‘i. From the Polynesian migration, to the “golden age of tourism”, each act honors a deep connection to the ʻāina (land), celebrating Hawai‘i’s rich heritage and cultural traditions”.

Shopping has some advantages, meeting some interesting people just one of them. Our accents giveaway the fact we are not locals, even Amanda’s accent seems to be fading when compared to the average American resident or tourist. Just across the road is Nordstrom Rack one of the US’s biggest department store’s outlet branch, where last year’s fashions and discounted lines are sold off at bargain prices. On checking out we are asked where we are from. In answer to our reply we are told that there is a a colony of Southeastern Australian rock wallaby’s here on Oahu. Apparently quite a few survive up in the Kalihi Valley, just north of the city of Honolulu. Imported in 1916 for a zoo, that failed to eventuate the three immigrants escaped into the hills. One falling victim to a wild dog, the other two survived to breed, producing the colony still in existence today. We are all the more wiser for learning this little known fact, with an Aussie connection. Unlike many other of imported species they don’t yet seem to have over run the island.

It is Friday. Today’s weather forecast is for a sunny warm day with occasional scudding clouds, light breezes, and moderate humidity. Same as yesterday and the day before that, and the day before that. Like looking in a mirror with a mirror behind you, seeing your reflection appearing to go on and on into infinity. Being an Hawaiian meteorologist would be a great job, plenty of time to go surfing. There is a full moon tonight or as the Hawaiians say a “Hoku” moon. The sun and Earth conveniently aligning with this moon to create increased gravitational pull that will in turn produce king tides along Oahu’s shores. As a result bringing 10-14 foot waves to the beaches of Waikiki and Ala Moana, a rarity on this side of the island. Our elevated position allows us an excellent view of the rising ocean at nearby Ala Moana Beach park each evening. Today we are able to have a closer look as we are having lunch in Waikiki right on the ocean. Being the guest of a local also has its benefits as Kate scores a table ocean side at the Monkey Pod Kitchen restaurant, a branch of the Merriman chain. A trendy local name, after a local tree that has a large spreading canopy that produces oversized curved seed pods the length of a monkeys arms. After lunch its on to the Cirque du Soleil show.

Ubering around Honolulu has proved the best way for point to point travel, there are pricing options depending on the level of space or luxury you want. Most uber drivers have Tesla model Y’s that are comfortable, quiet and smooth if a little different. Our Uber arrives on time, the drive into Waikiki takes about 15-20 minutes for US$25 or Aus$38 probably not far off a typical ride in Adelaide. The Monkey Pod Kitchen is situated in the Outrigger Reef Hotel right on the oceanfront. With the seas up, waves are crashing into the sea wall that forms the seaside perimeter of the hotel. After taking some photos of the iconic Diamond Head crater rising from the turquoise waters of Waikiki bay we are shown to an oceanfront table in a sheltered corner. Most tables have transparent blinds on the open side, we soon see why those most desired tables are doused with ocean spray as a set of big waves rolls in. Those blinds prevent 90% of the spray but at times the salty water finds its way around the screens. Our table is reasonably safe but an adjacent one with no screen is repeatedly taking a shower. The food is exceptionally good, the variations on the relaxed theme of fish, salads and burgers have that little extra class about them. The sauces and dressings making all the difference to normally ordinary fare. We have front row seats to all the activity, surfers heading out to catch the larger than normal waves, a schooner sits out in the ocean beyond the waves while closer in a seal bobs up and down, appearing and disappearing from sight. We name the Hawaiian seal Bob, trying to track his movements and guess where he will “Bob” up next.

Time up, we move on by foot along Waikiki’s main thoroughfare, Kalakaua Avenue to the Outrigger Beachcomber. This hotel has a small theatre, 724 seats ensuring patrons all have a good view of the stage. Ours are centrally located and just a few rows back from the stage. As we take our seats a lone acoustic guitarist sits on the stage picking out a calming tune. As the lights go down, a man appears looking like a typical tourist, he mimes a demand for the artist to sign his program. The artist switches to a bamboo flute like woodwind instrument the haunting sound lulling the tourist into a dreaming sleep. Where he is taken on a journey through eight stages of Hawaii’s development. The acrobats take us through feats of balance, strength and agility, their bodies trained to perform fluid movements, that at our age we can barely remember. Individual performances both on stage and above take us through the uniquely Hawaiian story from ancient beginnings to day, with the tourist providing hilarious interludes. Altogether eighty minutes of non stop entertainment with ooh’s and aah’s and bucket loads of laughter, not to mention the amazement at the superior skill of these artists. We left with the feeling that we had experienced an entertaining, funny and unique show.

At the Ala Moana Shopping centre the next day we pass by the Tesla showroom. On display is the Tesla Bot, a humanoid robot under development by Elan Musk. Generation 3 has just recently come into existence, apparently the Bot will start to go on sale in November this year. Did I blink and miss something! Robots could be mowing the lawn, picking up the groceries or looking after the kids very, very soon. At US$30,000 I dare say there will be quite a few takers wanting to be on the cutting edge of this technology. The robot will be known as Optimus and will have advanced AI and learning capabilities. Connected to the internet it will be able to learn any tasks from a video or explicit instructions. The bot will then be able to share this information with other bots. With advanced dexterity it can crack an egg or thread a needle, maybe darn your socks just like grandma used to do. Or even play the piano. It seems that just a few years ago these machines couldn’t even stand up, now they can walk, talk, climb stairs or be let loose in uneven garden terrain. The Tesla model will immediately be able to sweep, vacuum, cook, clean the toilets, water the plants, serve a drink and bring in your Amazon parcels. The potential is enormous. Just like those robot dust collectors it will return to its station for charging its 8-10 hour battery. The future is on our doorstep.

Thinking about the future, science fiction and Marvel comics, the latter more back to the future than futuristic from today’s standpoint we took time out to go to the movies. An event we looked forward to participating in with Jim, Kate’s late husband, on our frequent visits here. As a tribute to Jim we wanted to continue the tradition, hoping he would be looking down with approval. This season the selection is a little thin with just a couple of movies released in this vein. A new Superman release is one option and the Fantastic Four another. We choose the Fantastic Four, widely considered to be at the forefront of the Marvel comic books started in 1961, when we are just eleven.

The Fantastic Four’s origin revolves around four friends who embarked on an experimental, unauthorised space mission. The team’s vessel, the Marvel-1, suffered bombardment by cosmic rays during their flight. Though the ship’s shielding failed, the four survived the crash back to Earth, where they discovered they had newfound powers. Together they decided to use these abilities to benefit humanity, forming the Fantastic Four. Their comic book debut saw them face off against the Mole Man and his army of monsters. Dr. Reed Richard’s or Mr Fantastic gained the ability to stretch his body into all sorts of contortions. Susan “Sue” Storm Richards found she could become invisible and create powerful force fields. Johnny Storm gained the ability to become a human torch and to fly, while Ben Grim’s body is permanently transformed into rock, giving him superhuman strength and durability. The movie is more akin to the comic books I remember from that era, the future just as we imagined it would be. With flying cars, robots and giant TV screens that looked just like our little TV set that sat in a corner on its four skinny legs, all those years ago. In a time when we imagined that any threat to the world would come from without and that the people of earth would come together to save the species. How wrong we were.

It’s Sunday, we arise late after watching the Adelaide Crows nearly succumb to defeat by the Perth Eagles. Fortunately they survive but a close call that must have sent shock waves through the coaching team.

Since our last visit, the giant Howard Hughes. corporation has built a concrete walking bridge over Ala Moana Boulevard just west of us. The walkway takes out the need to cross that very busy six lane highway.

The history of Ward Corporation’s (now Ward Village, under The Howard Hughes Corporation) land ownership in Honolulu is a rich and lengthy one, stretching back to the late 19th century. Starting with Curtis and Victoria Ward who farmed the area on their 100 acre property in Kaka’ako in 1870’s and 80’s. After Curtis Ward died Victoria managed the estate, forming her own company in 1930. She continued to grow her family’s real estate assets. A portion of the land changed hands when the city purchased it, but the Victoria Ward company continued to develop the remaining land. Opening Ward Centre and Ward Warehouse. In 2002 General Growth corporation purchased these properties and surrounding land for US$250m but went into bankruptcy in 2010. The Howard Hughes corporation then purchased the property. Howard Hughes has since rebranded the area as Ward Village, transforming it into a master-planned community with high rise residences, retail, and entertainment spaces. All this is still ongoing with new high rise apartments built or in the process of being built. The entire area now undergoing a transformation that will provide a unique high rise village atmosphere housing thousands of people along the southern coastline. The development is happening on a large scale incorporating amazing architecture amongst modern facilities and plenty of green space. The developments include a degree of “affordable housing” but it is hard to see how that will be possible, (define affordable please?) given the surrounding property values in this area.

This morning we take a walk along Ala Moana Boulevard heading west towards the Marina known as Kewalo Basin Harbor. This stretch of road that houses the old Ward Centre will soon be further developed. Once a vibrant shopping area most of the shop owners have vacated as leases are not renewed ahead of this massive renewal project. The bridge opened in May spans the six lane highway giving easy access to the Harbor and Ala Moana beach park. Once we veer off to take the ramp that leads to the bridge we are entering the newly created 1.4 acre Victoria Ward Park Makai, the latter word meaning seaward. A lush tropical green space with a pond and sculptures by local artists. A feature of the park is the use of native plants to reduce irrigation and mitigate urban heat effects. The park will eventually be extended to cover a total of 3.5 acres connecting nearby apartment complexes currently under construction just north of the bridge.

A fluttering nearby catches my eye as a large perfectly formed orange and black Monarch butterfly hovers around a nearby flowering bush. Eventually settling for nectar from the bright red and yellow blooms.

A large sculpture named Wayfinding by local artist Linda Fleming stands near the entrance calling to mind ocean currents and celestial navigation. The visual effect created by shifting light and shadows creates a dynamic focal point in the park. A landmark reflecting the spirit of exploration that shaped Hawai’i’s past. The park also pays tribute to native birdlife with sculptures of seven Hawaiian Stilts that used to inhabit this coastal area but now sadly are in rapid decline.

Just over the pedestrian bridge we are in Kewalo Harbor where all manor of craft take fun loving tourists out for some time on the ocean. Whatever your ocean going preference, sailing, fishing, para sailing, reef viewing in a glass bottom boat, snorkeling, skin diving your imagination can be satisfied here. Boats of all shapes and sizes are moored ready for action. Even one with a corkscrew slippery slide that delivers you with a splash from up high above into the clear turquoise waters below. From here we can see the entrance to the Harbor where yesterday a rather large boat lost control, literally surfing to a stop. The 3 meter waves created by the king tide carrying the vessel forward to end up stuck on the beach dangerously close to the Seawall.

Now on the Oceanside we walk back east passing the Harbor and into Ala Moana Beach Park. A 100 acre park that stretches 800 meters along the coast. The beach is popular with locals and tourists as the water here is protected by a shallow reef off shore. Even the larger than usual waves of today break against the coral reef leaving the protected water calm enough for standing paddle boarders.

Continuing our walk into the park towards the ocean the area is full of activity as visitors look for available car parks. Most are full, it is a Sunday after all. As we move further into the park their is evidence of approaching weddings as a bride receives a touch up to her pre photo makeup. Smoke billows out from under colourful shelters as compact charcoal grill bbq’s are lit in preparations for the days picnics. Under brightly decorated awnings we can see several teenage birthday party’s are preparing to have some fun with music emanating from speakers that would fill a concert hall with sound. A group of ten or more Asian looking percussion musicians are seated in a circle on the grass with their instruments before them under the spreading canopy of a long limbed tree. A Sunday morning get-together of like minded people or a band having a practice session, we will never know. Other groups of indeterminate purpose that we can only guess at have gathered here as well to take advantage of the large umbrella shaped shady trees. It is indeed a warm sunny morning with the early clouds that shaded us in our walk thus far, now gone. While the park has mostly broad canopied trees like Banyan and Monkey Pod there are other varieties. A particularly beautiful one is a cross between the pink and golden shower tree varieties, Cassia x nealiae, known locally as the rainbow shower tree.

There are also Persian Silk trees with their striking pink and white fan like blossom. An invasive species but shady and attractive all the same.

There are not many birds to be found around Ala Moana, no doubt bird fanciers would beg to differ. We did see a few white terns soaring over the water, invasive Indian myna birds, sparrow like finches on the lawns picking up food scraps from the barbecuing crowd. Also groups of little turtle doves, smaller than those at home. No gulls, a surprise to me as they are ever present on the Australian coast, and most other coasts we have visited. We did see a group of small finches looking for grass seeds, very similar in size and colour to our red cap or fire tail finches. Although these had a red brow and horizontal stripes on their back wings and body.

We continue our walk following the bay out on the peninsula to the point known as magic island. In reality not an island, but at one time named for a proposed resort that never came to fruition. The official name Aina Moana translates as “land from the sea”. As we walk we pass by a small Japanese wedding taking place against the backdrop white foaming breakers rolling in one after the other. The tip of the peninsula is an ideal surf watching location. Surfers can climb down the rocks here against the cliff face to reach the outer part of the reef into open water. Today the surfers are out in numbers patiently waiting in groups to ride the next wave as they build to greater heights than usual for the south coast.

The following day we tick off another goal, to visit the Bishop Museum. While we have taken the trip out to the site before there are always new exhibits to see or programs on. The museum also boasts a planetarium that has various demonstrations showing how the early Micronesians and Polynesians navigated the Pacific Ocean using only the stars to populate the islands way before the west knew they existed. The museum recently returned 10,000 artefacts from their collection to the Mariana islands. Including a group of sacred stones known as Latte, used in early construction as long ago as the building of the pyramids, that have sat in the Bishop Museum’s grounds since the 1920’s. We will be able to view them before they are moved back to their cultural home. There are many more interesting artefacts on display in the vintage cabinets reminiscent of a Victorian style library highly polished Koa timber is used inside the three story building while the exterior features lava rock blocks.

The carved stone figure standing steadfast in one of the ground floor alcoves is called Kaneikokala. The statue uncovered by Wahinenui, a kama’aina (native born) of Kawaihae, Hawaii. Wahinenui claimed his dreams guided him to the buried location of the ki’i (godlike image). After its discovery, he also claimed that the ki’i had pleaded to be taken from the cold earth in which it lay. Kaneikokala came to the Bishop Museum in 1906, and not long afterward became cemented permanently into the floor of the Hawaiian Hall.

It is said that in spite of well intentioned efforts to relocate Kãne to a suitable site outside the Hall, the statue has steadfastly held its ground and has refused to be moved.

Next it’s the planetarium for a lesson on the northern hemisphere night sky. We also learn about the continuing journey of the Hokule’a a traditional Polynesian canoe replica that began its ocean going life in 1976 with a journey to Tahiti. It has since continued to travel around the pacific training young Micronesians and Polynesians how to navigate by the stars and ocean currents alone, therefore continuing their cultural heritage.

An important note, it is Amanda’s birthday today. As we all know she loves to spend her birthdays in warm tropical places. what better place to turn 75 and be with family you haven’t seen for eight years. Tonight we celebrate Amanda & Sister Kate’s birthdays at Merriman’s restaurant.

Our last day arrives, tomorrow we will be on our way home. All our boxes ticked and goals achieved. Three magical islands visited, loved one’s laid to rest in these blue tropical waters. Spending precious time with family that remain, eating, drinking and sharing the memories and stories of our lives with much laughter and just a few tears. A little shopping, a movie, a play, a Cirque du Soleil show, fireworks and a little Hawaiian culture all add up to a wonderful stay. Thirty sunrises and thirty sunsets have passed, as time marches on so must we. Until the call to travel once again like the Wayfinders of past has us packing our bags for another exciting journey.

After the day of the tsunami we all didn’t feel like doing much at all, it felt good just to relax in this idyllic setting. Watching the occasional golfing activity, the clouds as they gathered around the mountains and Maui directly across the ocean from us. Plenty of conversation and lots of laughter as Amanda and Kate unpack a collection of photos that had arrived from their cousin Margie in Washington State. Their aunt Anne, now passed, a prolific photo taker and recorder of the family history had complied a large collection over the years. Pictures she had taken and that she had received from other branches of this close knit family. This too, the last day for Jimmy and Susan before they fly back to their San Diego home. The day ends with the now ritual lighting of the gas fired tiki torches, a glorious sunset and a bbq dinner in the warm tropical air.

The next day, Jimmy and Susan leave for San Diego and our party is down to three, just Kate, Amanda and me. It’s now our last full day at Mauna Lani, we leave for Honolulu tomorrow. For lunch we take the electric cart down to the Mauna Lani centre where there is a Tommy Bahamas restaurant above one of their clothing stores.

Tommy Bahamas are an Hawaiian institution specialising in Hawaiian shirts and leisure wear for men and women with a tropical theme. They have now branched out to restaurants offering food and drinks in a similar vein. We order a share serve of guacamole with some chips (American for potato crisps) as a starter, once we make a start on the dish it seems we have an obstacle taking up valuable guacamole space. A large brown object slowly emerges from the green mash, becoming an island in a sea of pureed avocado. It appears that the stone had inadvertently dropped into the bowl and we had became the lucky recipients. Now, eating in a foreign country can present problems, maybe that’s the way guacamole is meant to be served in far off exotic Hawaii. Kate assures me it’s not served that way in Honolulu, but I say we are on the Island of Hawaii. I call the waitress over and ask her if it is customary to serve the avocado stone with the guacamole, her quizzical look tells us it’s not and she whisks the bowl off to the kitchen to point out the mishap to some unlucky kitchen hand. The bemused waitress is soon back with a fresh bowl full of guacamole and loaded with a new batch of chips with more than a few apologies from the kitchen. A manager soon arrives with more apologies and a promise to remove the cost of the dish from the bill. No harm done, it’s not as if we could have choked on the over large seed. Nevertheless nothing like a bit of culinary excitement to brighten up your day.

After lunch and a little bit of retail therapy we return to the share house along the roads bordered by lava rock sprinkled with tufts of dry straw coloured grass. At one point along the road the golf course runs parallel for 200 metres or so complete with bunkers and a small lake. As we approach we can see movement, an unusual sight indeed as a herd of at least 20 dun coloured goats are grazing on the lush green course close to the road. Hawaii doesn’t have a great deal of animals but we learn that feral goats and pigs are making an unwelcome nuisance of themselves. Left here by Captain Cook himself as a future food sources, it appears with no natural predators it’s not only the mongoose that are thriving here. Luckily our experience with goats in the Australian outback is that they in tend to run from oncoming traffic. I slow down anyway not that the electric golf buggy I am driving (on the wrong side of the road mind you) goes that fast. But just in case. As we approach the animals are drifting across the road in ones or twos into the lava field on the opposite side. Where they disappear amongst the craggy landscape where only a goat could survive, these particular goats blending in with the landscape so that they are barely visible at all.

Evening closing in with a spectacular sunset, living in the Adelaide hills we see little of sunsets, just the reflection of the dying sun as it throws a pinkish light against that darkening clouds. Here the sun’s going down paints a new picture every day, the artist never tiring with the scene, creating new hues and cloud formations daily.

The next day we leave our dream island, an island within an island surrounded as it is by lava rock and ocean. Time to fly back to Honolulu for the last leg of our journey. We fly from Kona airport late morning with little of the hassle we had getting here.

Another island hopping short flight and we touch down in Honolulu, back in short time at home base, Kate’s apartment building. We are staying in one of the building’s comfortable guest suites on the terrace level with access to outdoor areas, large swimming pool, Gym and fully equiped bbq cabana’s. Our room has laid empty while we spent time in the Big Island giving the opportunity for the carpets to be cleaned. The furniture pieces as a consequence stacked high in the tiled entrance hallway. The building has its own staff, their existence it seems is to look after every need of the occupants, as a guest our bags are on the way up no sooner than we arrive, soon we have two staff members after delivering our bags happily sorting out the furniture while apologising profusely. Conversation ensues and we have the chance to question them about their tsunami experience. They tell how the traffic caused mayhem on the roads and the entire road network became grid locked as employees from businesses all over the city and Waikīkī left work for home has authorities ordered an immediate evacuation. Authorities hadn’t counted on those panicked drivers who when the traffic stood still abandoned their vehicles to walk to higher ground , therefore causing road blockages that could only be moved by tow trucks. Beach goers and holiday makers alike had to head for the hills or to their rooms if staying in a high rise hotel or building. The Hokua (meaning crest of a wave) building is 41 floors with apartments well above sea level, even the terrace where we are staying would not allow one to have wet feet. The employees emergency procedures ensured they stay in place, with any new shift unable to travel to work while the emergency slowly unfolded. Not able to go home until the all clear later that night but managing to obtain some pizza for a staff party while they waited. Before the all clear came and they could go home to their families.

As one online reporter put it “I don’t remember ever hearing about a tsunami hitting Hawaii, that was worth worrying about. BUT, people freaked out this week… and suddenly, the state has a worry about gridlock traffic making an evacuation impossible.

Cars were backed up for hours, and miles, on Tuesday in Honolulu as residents responded to alerts by jumping in their cars.

If, instead, they had walked 20 minutes inland, I shit you not, they would have been at far higher elevation than any tidal wave could reach. Yeah, mountain islands, are like that. The first widespread tsunami warning blared out from the state’s Emergency Management Agency at 2:44 p.m. to every cellphone in Hawaiʻi, urging people to leave coastal areas, and move to higher ground or inland immediately. It said nothing about heading to tall buildings”.

After settling in, it’s off to the nearby Whole Foods Market, grocery store, come takeaway outlet. Situated within walking distance in an architecturally attractive building befitting the modern vibe of the area. As the name suggests the store is very much about fresh healthy produce although they do sell other packaged or processed foods, even wine. The main point of difference is the range of hot foods and salads presented in rows of Bay Marie’s. Cardboard containers at the end of the rows in different sizes are then used to contain whatever you select, priced by weight at the checkout. The range is substantial, cooked veggies, meats, salad ingredients of all kinds. Even wood oven pizza sold by the slice, with triangular shaped to-go boxes at the ready. Quite remarkable and inexpensive. Our main aim today is fresh fruit and breakfast items to see us through tomorrow and the coming days.

The next day it’s time to explore the Ala Moana shopping centre. Just a short walk for us and we are there. With over 350 shops and restaurants it’s going to be a busy day.

The shopping centre has something for everyone, High end brands down to lower priced point shops. On this occasion, even a pop up market selling handicrafts and the usual market fare. At the centre there is a central stage that often hosts hula dancers and Hawaiian bands as well as shows for the kids while mum and dad shop away. Today there are a very graceful troupe of grandma’s strutting their stuff on stage. Terrific to see these octogenarians up there entertaining the tourists and having a great time doing it.

Lunch is in one of the department stores, Nordstrom’s have a bar located on the second floor right next to the escalators where they serve a light lunch menu. From here one can have a glass of wine with lunch and watch the shoppers as they meander their way around the various departments on this floor. An Innovative and successful idea judging by the amount of patrons refuelling today. After lunch we decide that we are done with shopping for the day, the mall is teaming with people, the stores are thumping out loud music and the heat of the day is wearing us out, must be getting old!

Later on as the day cools we return to whole Foods to complete our grocery shopping for the week. Kate still hasn’t heard from her car dealership in regards to the repairs to her Dodge Dart. Subject of a breakdown up at the Nu’aunu Pali (a mountain tourist spot with fabulous views to Waikiki and the coast). Jimmy and Susan had borrowed the car for a trip to the eastern shores, during our first week here, then returning via the Pali the vehicle refused to move after a sightseeing stop. After arranging for the vehicle to be towed to the dealership with apparent transmission problems, Kate had since not heard a peep. Leaving her with the thought, do I really need a car. The Ala Moana area is extremely well serviced, a modern high rise village with all one could need within walking distance. It’s a serious question to consider. The faithful Dart dearly loved by recently passed husband Jim is 13 years old with very few miles and in showroom condition. Which brings us back to grocery shopping, while home deliveries are all the rage again after a 70 year absence walking is still a great exercise and the district has so much to offer in regards to local cafes and food outlets. Making the use of a car less of a necessity and more of a nice to have situation. With all this in mind we will purchase a mobile shopping trolley for Kate once there. That will enable her in future shopping expeditions to walk to Whole Foods and return with relative ease. No car involved.

The next day we are off to see a local production of a play that began the TV series Columbo. “Prescription Murder” stars two local TV personalities, now retired in this murder mystery told from a different point of view. Where the audience knows who commits the felony but Columbo has to solve this almost perfect crime. More a how dunnit than a who dunnit.

The play is to be performed at the Hawaii Theatre that has played a significant role in Honolulu‘s cultural landscape since 1922. Originally built for vaudeville performances and the silent movie era, it transitioned to a full movie theatre but fell into disrepair by the 80’s. Fortunately local volunteers formed a group to save the theatre from demolition and becoming a car park, later restoring the venue to its former glory.

The Theatre is situated in one of the oldest parts of Honolulu, Chinatown. Chinatown has traditionally played host to restaurants, noodle shops and bars as well as crowded Asian markets full of antiques and stalls selling lei flower necklaces. The area is also an artistic hub, home to indie art galleries and the art deco Hawaii Theatre Center, that stages concerts, musicals and comedy. Temples include the Buddhist Kuan Yin Temple, with its striking green roof. The historic buildings make the site significant historically and culturally. The district does appear to have its challenges, with homelessness and increased crime. More police are on the job, but there is an underlining problem here that one would think that the people of such a wealthy state could solve. There is also the relentless impact of urban renewal, providing beautifully architectural buildings and utopian living spaces but the relentless push westward along the coast could see this areas place in Honolulu’s history suffer into the future.

Dinner tonight is at another of Hawaii’s most famous restaurants. Yiu will find a Merriman’s on every island. Merriman’s restaurant, founded by chef Peter Merriman, is known for its commitment to Hawaiian regional cuisine and its use of locally sourced ingredients. The first Merriman’s restaurant opened in Waimea on the Big Island in 1988, pioneering a movement to feature fresh, locally grown produce and meats. Like most of the islands restaurants we have visited the trend is less haute cuisine and more up market cafe. The menu usually simple fresh food served attractively. Salads, burgers, fish sandwiches and tacos are all staples. The price of dining is high here in Hawaii add to that the bizarre (to us Aussies) tipping ritual, thus the meals simplicity keeps the prices more affordable while not being pretentious. This particular restaurant chain branch has just reopened after some serious water damage from within the building, flooding the floors and destroying fixtures and fittings. Usually packed, it is a little less so today as patrons slowly discover their favourite eating place is back on line.

To be cont….

Another day in paradise and the clear weather continues. Blue cloudless skies leaving only the island of Maui holding onto rings of cloud that circumnavigate the mountains crater top. Leaving only the craggy peaks visible. The cloud ring I imagine sliding down the slopes as the heat of the sun increases throughout the day. Our shared house is located adjacent to a golf course of verdant green grass trimmed just millimetres from its surface soil. Odd shaped bunkers with white sand dot the green, waiting to catch an errant ball. While piles of rusty brown and black lava rock, create golf ball eating monsters that will swallow a ball whole given half a chance. In the distance usually swaying palm trees have stopped their dance as the ocean beyond lies still. The golf course is busy this morning, more carts than usual are whizzing from one whole to the next. They stop, disgorge their passengers who limber up and strike the ball, then remount their four wheeled steeds and are on their way again. Not sure where the exercise is in that. There appears to be club marshals in their own carts, stopping to talk to golfers, we speculate that this is required to move those halted golfers on as the course bottle necks in front of us. Then there’s the refreshment cart going from hole to hole to drum up business. A cold beer or soda would go down well with those club wielding players as they are stuck out in the heat of the sun. Searching for that little ball of dimpled white in a field of green, or worse still chipping the ball out of a sandy bunker, or the bordering on impossible task of retrieving it from a treacherous lava field.

It’s a domestic day today, each of us busily catching up on those little chores that oil the wheels of life as we move along this shared timeline.

By the time we venture out the midday sun is high in the sky, reminding me of an old quote about mad dogs and Englishmen being the only ones to venture out at this time of day. But we are tempted to investigate the Hawaiian fishponds and petroglyph field that sit adjacent to the Mauna Lani Beach club. Sunscreen, hats and sunglasses are our first priority, Jimmy chauffeurs us in our six person electric golf cart down to the path that will take us to the petroglyphs. We are expecting a reasonable hike but the pathway is a short one, not long at all. The pathway becomes circular bordered by small lava boulders with slabs of flat rock propped up like pieces of broken black concrete from a demolition site. These slabs have figures chiseled into them, depicting warriors with spears, dancers and other images that one can only guess about. Despite the obvious cultural and historical significance of these pieces there is an anticlimactic feeing about the site, as it so obviously staged. Not at all the journey of discovery we had anticipated. Although, had we wanted to be more adventurous we could have taken a rocky track through a dark tangled wood that had the look of some petrified forest from a one of Grim’s tales of our childhood. We send Jimmy in but he doesn’t see any clear path to grandma’s cottage and quickly returns. The only animate creature we see using are the mongoose that are particularly prevalent and nonchalant about our presence in this area.

From the petroglyph field the ocean is just a short walk, here the coast is sharp edged black lava contrasted by white sandy shell grit, that on close inspection is made up of broken pieces of bleached fossilised coral and water and time worn pebbles. Beyond this monochrome strip the turquoise ocean glitters in the searing sunlight.

The petroglyph field explored we move on to the historic fish ponds. Hawaiian fishponds, or loko I’a are ancient aquaculture systems that were crucial for food production in ancient Hawaii. These cleverly designed ponds, often built along shorelines, allowed for the controlled cultivation of fish and other marine life. They represent the sophisticated level of understanding of marine ecosystems and sustainable resource management that Hawaiians had developed.

The ponds are literally teaming with fish, big and small. Stirring the waters as they twist and turn, occasionally flashing their silver underbellies that reflect the sunlight through the clear waters of the pond. Small crabs skitter around the edges of the pond feeding on any algae, microscopic creatures or decaying organic material they can find. Back at the house, the golf course scene from mountain to sea is delightfully calming, the air still and clear, not a breeze stirs the palm trees. Tonight the sunset creates a pinkish golden glow across the sky, there are no clouds to reflect the suns rays this evening so instead the sun paints the entire sky in its own rose gold image.

The islands of Hawaii sit in the northern hemisphere between 2000 and 2400 kilometres north of the equator. The main islands of the group range from 19 to 22 degrees north latitude. Cacao trees like to grow naturally in a band 20 degrees north or south of the equator. It’s no surprise then that chocolate would be an ideal agricultural crop for Hawaii. The surprise is that they hadn’t picked up the crop earlier. The first cacao trees were planted in Hawaii in the 1830s, with some sources citing a Guatemalan variety in the gardens of King David Kalakaua. Another account mentions Dr. William Hillebrand introducing cacao in 1850, potentially on land that is now part of the Foster Botanical Garden. The planting of these trees didn’t result in any commercial cacao farming, some tried but faced challenges, including disruptions from wars, fluctuating prices, and a lack of consistent local commercial interest. A turning point came in the 1996, with the establishment of Hawaii’s agricultural giant the Dole Food Company ( known more for its pineapple plantations ) planting a 20-acre cacao farm on Oahu’s North Shore. Encouraged by Dole’s successful growing of this demanding tree, small independent farms followed with similar success leading to the rise of the bean-to-bar chocolate production in Hawaii. Today, Hawaii is known for its unique, high-quality cacao and craft chocolate, with both large-scale farms like Waialua Estate and smaller, artisanal producers contributing to the industry. Cacao trees take a long time to fruit between 5-7 years, so patience is required.

Today we set off in search of chocolate to be found in Honoka’a on the Big island’s north shore, 45 miles (53 kilometres) north west of where we are staying. Here we are told there is a cacao plantation and manufacturing facilities. Amanda decides to stay at home, a severe case of nasal congestion brought on by the huge amount of cut grass as golf course maintenance crews keep the fairways in tip top condition. The stillness of the air keeping the grassy pollen laden air hanging around longer than normally could be expected. Our route takes us north along the Queen Kaʻahumanu Hwy, Then west at Kawaihae Road to Waimea rising in altitude all the time. The dry brown slopes turning into green pastures as we do so. From Waimea we turn northeast towards the northern coastline until we reach the little historic town of Honoka’a.

On first sighting this is a captivating town with a very obvious Japanese influence. Remnants of Japanese and Portuguese culture remain left over from the bygone sugar cane industry. The small population of 2-3000 is mixed but dominated by Asian and White residents. Since the demise of sugar cane as the main agricultural product, the district went into decline. In need of reinventing itself pineapple made a resurgence and coffee, papaya, macadamia nuts as well as tea have added to the mix. Like Waimea cattle ranching plays an important part in the towns economy. Now cacao is being successfully grown here there is potential for this to add to the tourism industry and home grown consumption. The global cocoa beans market is valued at USD 13.54 billion for 2023 for a total of 5 million tons and is projected to reach USD 23.54 billion by 2030. But political instability and climatic conditions play a big part with the yield only 4.5 million tons in 2024 due to smaller harvest volume in Africa. Ghana, Nigeria, and Cameroon producing approximately 70% of the world’s cocoa beans.

Here we are though in this tiny town of Honoka’a that has turned its Main Street into a historic shopping district. Between the buildings there are enticing glimpses of the Pacific Ocean. Honoka’a is known in Hawaii for its musical festival that hosts Hawaiian, classical, folk and jazz musicians from around the state. Our first stop off is a quaint book shop, the only one in town and a recent one at that. The shop assistant/owner, a retired medical research scientist tells us the store is well patronised, good to hear a successful story in a town seeking revival. I find a children’s book with local character and a good life message to take home to Lincoln our approaching four years great grandson.

Then on to the main course chocolate. The shop’s assistant is well versed in chocolate making, guiding us through the different blends from plain milk and dark concentrations. They also have a few flavoured blends using bourbon and rum. They also use goats cheese, in one blend, not to my liking at all. The 70% plain dark chocolate is my personal favourite, but the 85% not being as bitter as my usual experience came in a close 2nd. The rum and bourbon blends showed a real talent for showcasing those flavours, anyone who enjoys those spirits would thoroughly enjoy them.

Tasting over and purchases made we ask for recommendations for lunch and are directed to “I Luv Dumplings” a Japanese restaurant with an Hawaiian twist. I order the Gyoza pork dumplings and steamed yuzu pork buns Japanese style filled with lime marinated braised pork, delicious!

Time to drive back to Waimea and down the hill to our shared home. We are back just a short while when out of the blue, loud alarms go off on all our phones in unison, tsunami alert. Tsunami ‘s in my world happen in some far off exotic places, not right here around me, so it is with some anxiety and disbelief that we tune into the local TV where breaking news is reporting of a substantial earthquake registering 8.7 off the coast of eastern Russia near the Kamchatka peninsula. The predicted effects of this event would see analyst suggest that waves up to 10 feet could be expected to hit the Hawaiian islands. Not only that but there would be a wrap around effect that could cause the waves to hit all of the various islands low lying areas. Of course this means tourist resort areas and beaches. A quick check and a confirmation call from our property manager is all we need to know that we are indeed in the evacuation zone. Do we stay or do we go? That is the question, we decide to wait it out for a while to see how the situation develops. The TV presenters are pushing the seriousness of the situation, one going as far as to say have no doubt, this is the real deal. Further calls with our property manager have us realising that we need to start packing an overnight case including passports, valuables etc. next question where to go? Amanda’s brother Gary and sister in law Tracey are isolating from Covid up in their home town of Waimea. Since we have no where else to go, Gary and Tracey graciously allow us to camp on their spacious front porch. The tension is mounting as we load the rental car with our overnight bags and anything that maybe useful, like toilet paper and beach towels and head back to the elevated town of Waimea.

The roads out of the Mauna Lani and Mauna Kea resort region are streaming with traffic, long lines snaking up the hills towards Waimea. The trip taking far longer than it usually would. Once there we settle in on Gary and Tracey’s spacious front porch, to await information on the tsunami as it comes in on the local TV news feed. In the process we drink a little of his wine and order Thai food from a local restaurant. All the restaurants and hotels are full this evening, resulting in a long wait for food. The tsunami is due to hit at 7.00pm, an anxious wait ensues. By 8.00pm we are still waiting and by 9.30pm the warning is downgraded to advisory. We attempt to make a run for it after being advised by our property manager that the roads are now open. They are not and we are turned back by the boys in blue. Once again back at Gary & Tracey’s we are this time preparing to spend the night. For the next couple of hours we watch the news waiting for the break through that never comes. The new programs leave us hanging at advisory, no definitive “You can go home now” then they go dark. We search for any advice we can on line but to no avail. At 11.30pm we call it a day, it’s time to go home. Jimmy had earlier curled up in the back of the car, as our nominated driver I wake him, groggily he awakes and we load the car again. Say our goodbyes and head off into the pitch black night down the hill to our Mauna Lani home. This time there are few vehicles on the road, police and emergency service vehicles pass us in the opposite direction but there are no roadblocks or a police presence to stop us from our intended destination. As we drive into the Mauna Lani resort area we are relieved that the whole event is over. Soon the refugees are back in their own comfortable beds, snoring loudly. It’s not until 10.00 am the next morning that the emergency alert sounds on all our phones in sync giving us the all clear.