Month: July 2025

Our last night in Hana passes and we rise early enough to catch the sun rise. After breakfast we check out and begin our journey back down the Hana Highway to Kahului airport for our flight to Kona on the Big Island of Hawaii. This treacherous road like a metaphor for life itself has many twists and turns, obstacles to overcome, occasional accidents and incidents, natural beauty as well as blots on the landscape, detritus left by us careless humans. Over the last few days we have learnt that Gary has contracted COVID and along with him his wife Tracey. A real disrupter for them as they planned to host several events on their home turf. Mean while Katy is preparing to travel from Honolulu to Kona ahead of us in preparation for our arrival at the home she has rented for the family reunion just north of Waikoloa at Mauna Lani along this north western coastline of ragged lava rock and black sand beaches.

The trip down the Hāna Highway is more arduous than our upward trek, tourists are out day tripping by the score, local authorities are out working on maintaining bridges. The tight curves and one lane bridges mean constant slowing and stopping. With the steep fall into valleys now on our right and fern covered lava cliffs to our left. There are more larger vehicles on the road than on our upward trip making passing at some points a tight squeeze.

5G coverage is non existent along the whole length of road. At about the 2 hour point we pause for a comfort stop, no road side rest stops along this highway. Instead a little colourful store, with one single porta-potty in the back yard. There only requirement for use a purchase from the kiosk selling cooling drinks, fresh whole fruit and snacks. I buy a mango smoothie that quenches my thirst and hunger. One upward traveller has given up on hearing that an accident has occurred on the road, we assure him that there are only road works, this is born out by the kiosk attendant who googles for information on any serious road blockages and comes up negative. Reassured the young travellers continue Hana-ward.

Back on the road it’s not long before we reach the outskirts of Kahului, we find a food stop for a quick bite to eat and then a gas station, another Americanism, then onto the airport in plenty of time for our flight.

Tip for travellers with multiple flight destinations anywhere in the USA, try to obtain TSA pre approval. Jim and Susan have it and breeze through while Mandy and I don’t and it’s a long arduous, chaotic journey through security. It seems the rules are constantly changing, shoes & belts on or off, laptops, iPads in bags or out. No one pays any attention to the signs, walking through while drinking cans of open soda. The guard stops them, saying sure take the soda through but no cans allowed. There are no bins either, and the unwitting are directed back to the airport entrance to dispose of their empty cans.

We snake our way forward in the crowded security area fans blowing warm air over us. Security officers are leaving their posts one by one until only one remains. Our turn comes, Amanda goes through but on my turn, firstly I’m asked if I’m over 75, not knowing why, I answer yes and am then directed to another scanner. It’s assumed over 75’s can’t raise their arms above their head, just asking would have saved a lot of time. On my second try, I set the alarm off, then I’m directed to remove my shoes, that are whisked away to who knows where. Another nearby victim receives his shoes back and he moves on, but after a few minutes it appears mine went on a one way journey. Finally I go through the scanner again, given the all clear I go hunting for my shoes and my patient wife. Note to self, get TSA approval on future visits.

Our flight is on time, just like our incoming flight by the time we reach peak altitude we descend towards the dry brown slopes of Mouna Loa. The Ellison Onizuka Kona International Airport at Keāhole is set on the western most part of the island of Hawaii, amongst ancient lava beds. That resemble a moonscape more than any other earthly place. After collecting our bags and a rental car, a replica of our last mode of transport we head east towards the Queen Ka’ahumanu Highway then north to our destination.

We are anxious to meet up with Katy who has flown in on an earlier flight from Honolulu but first we make a stop at the local Foodland market. Just to pick up a few essentials for dinner tonight and breakfast for tomorrow.

Our stay for the next eight days is at a holiday rental situated in a developed part of this otherwise desolate part of Hawaii’s west coast between Anaehoomalu Bay and Holoholokai Beach Park. The area now transformed into a green tropical paradise. With resort hotels, private residences and a golf course.

Mauna Lani has a rich history, originally settled centuries ago and later becoming a sacred area for Hawaiian royalty and a place of worship. The name “Mauna Lani” itself translates to “mountain reaching heaven,” reflecting its significance. The area features ancient fishponds, petroglyphs, and burial sites, showcasing its deep cultural and historical value. Today, Mauna Lani is also recognized as an eco-friendly resort committed to preserving Hawaiian culture and natural resources.

Katy greets us on our arrival at this idyllic home set amongst other similar properties nestled against the lush green of the golf course. The facilities of the four bedroom home each with ensuites are extensive and the view from the main living area and lanai (Alfresco or Patio) amazing. Stretching as it does in a panoramic view west to the ocean and north to Waimea and the western slopes of Mauna Kea

After a long day of automobiles, trams and planes (the boat is yet to come) we are content with a light meal and an early night. The island in welcome puts on a magnificent sunset to close out the day.

Our first morning and shopping for supplies is top of the agenda, eating in and enjoying each other’s company is top of the priority list for this trip.

Food shopping, soaking in the pool, a trip in the road registered electric 6 seater golf cart that allows us to motor around the complex and a late night BBQ is about all we can manage as the temperature rises to a warm 28c.

The next morning sees us drive north to Waimea, a town inland from the coast at about 810 meters elevation. At this height the area receives more rainfall and is cooler than sea level.

This area on the western slopes of Mauna Kea once supported several thousand native Hawaiians, who practiced subsistence farming and lived in thatched dwellings. As Europeans arrived they, traded trinkets for sandalwood as a result most of the sandalwood forests were harvested and the land became more suitable for grazing animals. In 1793 King Kamehameha received gifts of Californian longhorn cattle from British Captain George Vancouver. The cattle thrived, soon outgrowing their grazing grounds. Then In 1809, John Parker arrived in the area eventually becoming employed by the king to hunt and tame the out of control population of cattle. In 1815 Parker married Kipikane, the daughter of a high-ranking chief, and as a family developed what is now Parker Ranch, the largest cattle ranch in the area. The Spanish also had a hand in the development of this area, the early 19th century also saw the arrival from the Viceroyalties of New Spain and Rio de La Platz of the horse and spanish vaqueros (“cowboys”), bringing the traditional Euro-Latin culture of riding and roping skills. The king hired these vaqueros to teach Hawaiians herding and ranching skills, and by 1836 the island had working cowboys. Resulting in a unique Hawaiian cowboy culture.

Today Waimea is the center for ranching activities and “paniolo” (Hawaiian Cowboy) culture. The towns name meaning reddish water. The population around 10,000. The Parker Ranch now the largest privately owned cattle ranch in the United States. There are two main annual events in the town, a cherry blossom festival and a 4th of July Rodeo. Waimea is home to the headquarters of two astronomical observatories, located on Mauna Kea that can be seen clearly as we drive up to Waimea they are the W.M Keck Observatory  and the Canada-France- Hawaii Telescope. Waimea is also the headquarters of the International Lunar Observatory Association.

This is the home of Gary and Tracey, Amanda’s oldest brother. Now that they have contracted Covid Jimmy takes over the arrangements to scatter their parents ashes at sea as was their dying wish. We call in on Gary & Tracey to collect the siblings parents ashes, who after their travels from Oregon to Indiana and Maui have finally made their way to Hawaii’s big island.

Once we have the ashes at our shared house, the siblings decide to set them up to watch the sunset, then put them spend the night in the ohana unit (translates to granny flat) until the morning trip to the Kawaihae Marina where the pontoon boat Olahana will be waiting at the dock. Where their plans to scatter the ashes in the clear warm waters between Kauna’oa Bay and Hapuna Bay can at last be realised.

The next morning after gathering up Jim and Shirley from their overnight resting place we set off early.

The day is just perfect, no wind, clear blue skies. We can see for miles, Although the ever present cloud cover over Maui’s Haleakala peak persists bringing rain to Sandi in Hana but from our location the sparkling blue Alenuihaha Channel looks like glitteringly opalescent. The cinder cones that dot the arid brown slopes of the now extinct volcano Mauna Kea clearly stand out on our right as we drive north to Kawaihae Marina.

Our boat the Olahana with its all girl crew of two is standing by for us on our arrival. With a friendly wave and smiles around we board this very comfortable freshly minted pontoon boat. Besides being comfortably appointed with three powerful Yamaha 300 engines at the rear the vessel is obviously designed for speed as well as comfort.

Once onboard we meet our crew for the morning Tessa and Lea, Tessa the captain runs through the usual safety procedures and the boats facilities. While her mate Lea explains her role as a naturalist, with diverse interests in volcanology, oceanography and whales. We settle Mom & Dad in a comfortable part of the boat, heading off southwards down the coast. Through the marvels of modern technology, Sandi, Gary and Tracey are able to join us via FaceTime.

With the siblings hooked up they each pay tribute to their parents in their own way. Recalling their strong family focused attributes and the life lessons they instilled upon them so that they could all go out into the world able to cope with life’s many challenges. Sandi tells the story of their love for Australia that led to their wish for their ashes to be scattered off Hawaii. A place where father James spent time training as a navy pilot and later with mother Shirley they would spend a great deal of time visiting their three children that had relocated here. From this location together they could catch the strong ocean current that flows from Hawaii towards Australia known as the  Kuroshio Current, that carries warm tropical waters via Japan then into the North Pacific Current and eventually to the Eastern Australian coast..

The memorial words spoken, the crew take us further along the coast so that we are in sight of the Mauna Lani hotel and our lunch spot for later on in the day. The day has remained calm, Hawaiian slack key guitar once again accompanies our journey as we motor back to the Kawaihae Marina.

Lunch is at the Mauna Lani Beach Club, that just a short while ago we could see from our ocean view point.

Now all a tad tired from the long emotional day we retire to the shared house for a soak in the pool, another glorious sunset, a home cooked meal of shrimp burritos and an early night.

A bright early start to the day this morning. Even the little muddy green and red palm finch that taps religiously at our window every morning, didn’t wake us. His tap tap tapping usually acting as our alarm clock right on 6.30am. Flying in from his nearby palm tree home as the sun comes up he daily faces his nemesis reflected in the mirrored windows of our apartment suite Whether the little avian perceives a threat from his own reflection or just enjoys listening to his own tapping sound we will never know.

A pleasant surprise awaits us as we leave for Honolulu airport for our trip to Maui, our taxi driver from previous visits is here to pick us up. I recognise him immediately, he’s name is Jimmy and he’s hasn’t changed a bit in the years since our last trip. He soon transports us all, with our luggage, to the Hawaiian airlines domestic airport terminal. There are no unforeseen hiccups with just a short wait before take to the air on our Hawaiian airlines flight 226 to Kahului, Maui. It seems just as we reach peak altitude that we are touching down again. The plane lands with a shake rattle and roll as the crafts wheels hit the tarmac and we are once again safely on the ground. Once we pickup our bags it’s a short tram ride to the rental car pickup area, a big improvement to the buses used in previous trips. At Alamo rental car depot the vehicle pickup system is highly automated. We pick up our designated car from rows of various models lined up in the garage, on this occasion a Nissan Altima. Now the fun part loading our suitcases and associated carryon bags into the trunk of the car, note the Americanism here, we’ve left the land of the boot behind. After just a little pushing and shoving the four various sized suitcase fit snugly into the car, along with some of the carryons. Amanda’s brother Jimmy takes the wheel, I set my phone navigation system for the nearest Foodland grocery outlet and we are on our way. The Foodland stores here are not connected to the Australian brand of the same name but are everywhere here, selling a wide range of groceries, alcohol and other convenience products. Even, as it turns out ready made sandwiches & wraps to go. My phones GPS calls out the directions, but using kilometres or parts there of between turns, Jimmy handles the conversion easily and we are soon at our destination. Since it’s now midday we pickup some lunch and healthy snack foods, and some not so healthy ones, to fuel us for the 2 hour 30 minute scenic drive along Maui’s northern coast line to Hana on the north western tip of the island. The remote destination is only 84km or 52 miles but the road is narrow and so full of sharp bends and turns, that we have to continually stop or slowdown to give way to oncoming traffic.

This is the wet side of the island, the entire trip zig zags through dense green jungle on both sides with occasional glimpses of the ocean on the downward slope to our left and cascading waterfalls on our right. Feral invasive bamboo, has spread out over many hillsides creating a sea of lime green clumps of gently swaying foliage. Delineated by shadowy outlines, giving the moving carpet depth and texture. A beautiful scene as the clumps flow in unison with the breezes. Problem is that it is these plants with their running root reproduction process that is killing off native species by crowding out the sunlight above and strangling their root systems below.. There are many waterfalls or water courses along the way collecting water from the steep rain soaked hills that send their runoff down towards the ocean. For each of these waterfalls or water courses there is a bridge, 59 of them to be exact, 46 are restricted to one lane only. These bridges in most cases date back to 1910 and are often under repair as the constant movement of water drags rocky debris down the slopes. Besides the bridges there are 620 curves, keeping Jimmy in a state of constant awareness. Luckily none of us suffer from car sickness, but the warmth and constant swaying of the car left to right makes one a little sleepy. For me the ever changing landscape keeps my eyes from closing throughout the trip. There are many plants we recognise from Australia, like the African Tulip tree with its scarlet bloom, and towering eucalyptus with pink striated trunks, reminiscent of the snow gums in Australia’s high country. Flashes of bright red yellow tipped Heliconia blooms stand out, drooping down on their pliable stems. While rope like jungle vines hang from the thick lush jungle above. In places below the jungle canopy ferns cling to the sheer lava cliffs, still moist from recent rains. It seems that we are driving through an ancient prehistoric world where rainforest meets the black lava sands of the ocean.

Along with the ever changing tropical landscapes and the quick stops to snap a waterfall the time goes by quickly. Hana is situated on the coast, directly off the highway that has now turned south, reaching a substantial bay with Waikoloa Beach at the northern end and Hana beach at the southern end. The township centre is sandwiched between the coast and the highway. According to the 2020 census 1526 people lived here in one of the Hawaii’s most remotest settlements. The population has declined since then to a mere 796. A downturn that started with the pandemic’s 8 month lockdown and became further exasperated by the 2023 Lahaina fires. Fires that wiped out a whole community reliant on tourism as its main source of income. Of course there is much more to Maui than Lahaina, and tourism is needed more than ever to rebuild these devastated communities.

Once we locate the hotel, now known as the Hyatt Maui Hana resort, we settle in to our ocean view room, more of a cottage or small cabin. A free upgrade from the garden view rooms we had previously booked. The views from the cottage are stunning as is the surrounding property, even more stunning than I remember from our last visit here in 2016. After making contact with Amanda’s sister Sandi I head to the pool with Jimmy, as our services are not required, while Amanda unpacks and Susan attends to some laundry.

The temperature here is maybe 1-2 degrees cooler than Honolulu tapering off as the sun goes down. For the first time I’ll wear long pants for dinner, to be had at “The Ranch” restaurant adjacent to the hotel. Besides us four travellers, sister Sandi, Kaua, Tania with their two boys Cayman and Kingston are present. Cayman now a tall handsome teenager, who suffers from ADHD is intently focused, he proudly tells us he writing a book based on the world’s mythological creatures. His other passion is cinematic costume design and the art of making those designs come to life using the basic materials he has to hand. Then there is Kingston a small energetic blond 8 year old version of his Dad, Kaua. Living here it’s no surprise that he is half fish being introduced to the water at a very early age. Kingston on our last visit just a rather large bump in his mother tummy when we last saw this family in 2017. The restaurant has some delicious fresh food, ribs, steaks, burgers and salads very much in the American style. Amanda and I enjoyed the fish sandwich all eaten outside, cabana style in the breezy tropical warmth.

The next day starts off slowly, a lazy breakfast that extends into brunch. On our way back to our room the gardeners are trimming the coconut palms, quite a feat for these chainsaw wielding men dangling at 15-20 meters off the ground. Palm fronds fall to the ground along with seed pods that once held golden tentacled flowers thick with baby coconuts. These weird natural art forms lay scattered on the ground to be gathered up and composted but would look wonderful dried out and featured in floral art displays.

The extensive lawned grounds are also hunting fields for a small white egret, they saunter around the grassy areas looking for small grubs or worms. They spread out, each giving themselves a few square metres of space, disputes erupt in a flurry of feathers if they should wander into another birds territory. Momentarily disturbing the peace before the intruder is chased off and the flock goes back to their hunting. You might see a mongoose or two shoot out of a hidden lair under one of the many cottage rooms, on its journey to another such hiding place. Mongoose came to the island in the 1800’s ostensibly brought in to control rats, unwanted immigrants that had found their way off the many ships that called into Lahaina port. They controlled the rats admirably but they then turned their attention to the rare tropical bird’s eggs that once inhabited these islands, becoming an invasive species til this day.

Next a visit with Sandi at her cute cottage in the jungle. The perimeters of her property are thick with tall tropical plant species, some fruiting, papaya, banana and avocado trees laden with glossy green fruit are there for the picking. Also flowering species like Heliconia, plumeria and white ginger, among others. There are other creatures lurking in the jungle such as this cute little gecko that paid us a visit. See photo below.

We spend the remainder of the afternoon at the hotel pool with Sandi, Kaua, Cayman and Kingston.

The day finishes back at Sandi’s with a Thai feast prepared by a local who married a Thai girl. The food is super fresh and delicious, definitely authentic Thai. We have acquired some wine along the way an international mix, of French, USA, New Zealand & Portuguese, sadly no Australian, in my humble opinion the promotion of cheap Australians wine here does us a disservice, not showing off the incredible depth of quality and range quality that we as a country has to offer, a missed opportunity. Seventeen year old Cayman joins us and regales us with stories of the mythological creatures he has a particular interest in. Surprisingly he knows of one Australian creature known as the Yara-ma-yha-who from aboriginal mythology that I have never heard of. I am very disbelieving until he produces internet proof? I’ve known a few Yah Who’s in my time but this one I’ve not come across. I’m left feeling this is all an elaborate joke, must investigate further when back at home. I tell him about the Murray River Bunyip, surprisingly he has heard of this mythological creature, that very few in our own community know about.

Darkness descends on this little remote jungle community and we say our farewells arranging to meet up again with Sandi tomorrow. Back at the hotel the grounds are lit up, lanterns illuminate the pathways. Other illuminations light up the tree canopies and sculpturally pruned tree trunks as we make our way downhill to our tropical cottage in the warm scented air.

Another day dawns, Hana time is sinking in, we are sloooooowiiiing down. Jimmy and Susan had already hiked up to Fagan’s Cross before we made it to breakfast. Phew! I am tired even thinking about it.

In the hills just west of the Hana township sits a stone cross overlooking the bay. The cross is known as Fagan’s Cross created in 1960 situated on Lyons Hill 166 meters above sea level. The cross is a memorial to Paul Fagan who established cattle farming in the district and built the resort known as the Travaasa, now the Hyatt where we are staying.

After breakfast of tropical, fruit and strong black American coffee. We walk down to Hana Beach Park with Jimmy & Susan, where a statue of Queen Kaahumanu stands looking inland.

Queen Ka’ahunanu lived between 1768 & 1832, a striking woman born of a high caste in Hawaiian society she is recognised today as a powerful figure in Hawaiian history. Well known for her political skill and significant influence during a period of major social and cultural change. Her leadership helped shape the unified Hawaiian Kingdom and its transition to a westernised society. A favourite wife of King Kamehameha I under whose rule the islands became unified. After his death in 1819 she became premier co-regent sharing governance with Kamehameha II.

The weather today is around 27c clouds heavy with moisture cover the surrounding green hills and out to sea where we can see the rain sheeting down to the steely grey ocean. Patches of blue sky appear above us as the sun tries desperately to banish the clouds. We are thankful for the cloud cover though as we make our way to Sandi’s cottage along the narrow roads that we need to traverse to arrive there. There are no footpaths along the way just a narrow verge that is mostly boarded by black lava rock-walls sprouting small lime green mossy looking ferns. Together we spend some more time with Sandi whose mobility is limited before making arrangements to transport her to the the hotel pool to spend the afternoon with us.

The homes we pass along the way, might look like shacks but they stand on plots of gold with median house price in Hana around US$1m.

Now hungry we make our way back to the hotel, passing a Thai restaurant known as Pranee’s, this is essentially two food trucks, one ancient looking that sit under a timber structure with decking that brings one to the level above the trucks wheels. The trucks are nestled into a hillside surrounded by a jungle like garden with mountain views. The food on offer is pictured on a menu board, so that diners can garner an idea of the type of food they will be eating. Some of the dishes on the display board are already sold out. We make our choices and are soon munching on some deliciously freshly made Thai food.

The rest of our last afternoon is spent by the pool with Sandi and Cayman who is staying with Sandi, his Nan, while the rest of his family is back in Kahului.

As night descends we are back at the Ranch restaurant for our final night with Sandi and Cayman in this magical place. Tomorrow we fly to the Big Island for the next stage of the family reunion.

I don’t want to bang on about the weather here , but it is damn good! Especially when I check the BOM for news of Mt. Barker where it is somewhat chilly. The arrivals continue, this time with Amanda’s brother, the eldest of the tribe Gary with wife Tracey. Kate has organised a late lunch/early dinner at one of Waikiki’s famous restaurant’s “House without a Key” so named for its openness to the off shore breezes and surrounding garden dining areas. The restaurant serves good quality lunch fare in an American style. Hamburgers, pizza, fish sandwiches and such like. After a relaxing morning we take a taxi into Waikiki, but due to road closures for an event happening the very same day we have to walk the last few hundred yards. Just as well, as we need to keep up a degree of exercise. The hotel Halekulani where the restaurant is situated is well known for its ocean views. An iconic Kiawe tree that sits inside the boundary of the hotels grounds and the boardwalk that separates the hotel from the ocean started life in 1887. Still standing 138 years later the treasured tree suffered some storm damage in 2016. Through the miracles of modern technology and the fact that nature had ensured that the roots had not severed their connection to the earth below its gnarled trunk now stretches horizontally along the sea wall. Where once again it sprouted in a vertical direction towards the life giving sun. Where its branches would fan out to provide an umbrella like canopy over a stage set for an Hawaiian band and a single hula dancer. Once at the venue two more of our guests arrive for the meal and the afternoon entertainment. On this occasion it is Amanda’s nephew Kaua and wife Tania, who have flown over from Maui to attend the event. Kaua is the son of Amanda’s sister Sandi, who is unable to travel at this time, and whom we will be visiting on the next leg of our trip.

I am not really a cocktail person, with one exception, I do love a good Pina Colada somehow it evokes the tropics for me. Maybe it’s the coconuts.

The meal over, Kate has pulled some pretty big strings to have us all front row for the entertainment.

The Hawaiian band warms us up before a former Hawaiian Miss Universe demonstrates her hula dancing skills, graciously she moves across the stage telling her story in the sinuously flowing movements of body, arms and hands. Her body clad in a colourful moo moo, multiple flowered leis around her neck and wrists along with a striking headdress, all moving simultaneously with the music.

The next day we are participating in a celebration of Jim Hoenig’s life. The event will take place in one of the communal gathering rooms at Kate’s apartment building. The morning is taken up with organising the room to accommodate the 38 people attending. Kate has organised the event to be catered for by a local restaurant that specialises in Turkish cuisine. It’s a little chaotic as everyone chips in with their ideas about how the layout should be. The room is quite small with some heavy furniture. Of course the caterer does this everyday, when she arrives she assesses the situation in a matter of seconds, sorting us all out along with the room, before we know it the room is looking fantastic. With decor quite homely and white roses in glass vases on the tables the look is representative of a small family restaurant. I am in charge of streaming a playlist to the tv sound system that I have previously connected to ensure no hiccups, I double check that this will work as we have one key song to play once the final memories are shared. Those final words to be presented by Amanda and I. Guests start to arrive just before 11.00am. After a commemoration by a well known Hawaiian judge, speakers relay their memories of Jim and the influence he has had on the legal system in Hawaii particularly as it relates to Family Law and mediation practices in resolving difficult conflicts. Also his work in the prevention of malpractice and importantly his and Kate’s foundation. The James Hoenig Scholarship at the University of Hawaii at Manoa’s William S. Richardson School of Law, is a scholarship endowed in 2006 by James Hoenig and his wife Kathleen Callaghan to support students interested in advancing mediation in Family Law. It provides opportunities to work with the Senior Judge of the Family Court. There are many tearful stories that relate to the loss experienced by Jim’s passing and the mentorship and commitment to these students, that Jim provided, some recipients of the scholarship who have become judges themselves. Our turn to speak comes, we want to give a different view of Jim as a brother in law and gracious host on our visits to Honolulu over the many years that we have visited these islands. We are both nervous and Amanda a little tearful, but we finish our script without too many stumbles. During the presentations the tv has become disconnected to my phone, making the smooth transition from spoken word to song difficult. Long seconds pass but I manage to reconnect and the song chosen by Kate to end the presentations rings out from the speakers. The song “Always Look on the Bright Side of Life” written by Eric Idle of the Monty Python crew for the film Life of Brian. A personal favourite of Jim’s and a representation of his quirky sense of humour.

After the song, we enjoy Istanbul’s spicy cuisine, consisting of marinated, lamb, wagyu beef and chicken skewers, pitta bread with dips of hummus, eggplant and spicy tomato, a fruity lettuce salad of mulberries, strawberries, blueberries and tomatoes with a tangy dressing. The best is always saved for last with a Turkish version of baklava a traditional Greek and Turkish desert with subtle differences with the main ingredients, a thin flaky pastry, honey, pistachios and butter.

The event is a resounding success with many accolades from participants thankful of the opportunity to say a few words about Jim and mix with other attending colleagues. That in some instances hadn’t seen each other for many years, but there fondness of Jim had now brought them together to share stories about Jim, his life and Kate his true love.

The remainder of the afternoon finds us relaxing poolside with the remaining family group. As the heat of the Sun dissipates making its way towards the horizon, cooling shadows fall across the scene and our thoughts turn once again to what to do for dinner. We settle on pizza and leftover salads and baklava. Even though there are a good many pizza purveyors in close proximity, having pizza delivered turns out to be a challenge. Eventually Jim and Susan take a walk to Whole Foods a local fresh food supplier and soon we are enjoying our final meal for the day in one of the apartment buildings outside cabana bbq facilities. Want an ice chest, no problem the staff at the building, have one waiting for us to keep our drinks chilled on this perfectly warm tropical night. One thing is for certain the staff that manage the guest suites and the buildings facilities are absolutely committed to providing the occupants with the best service and experience, again always with that Aloha spirit.

After a late breakfast at Tango’s a local restaurant at the foot of the apartment building followed by little light shopping at Ala Moana shopping centre the day is spent relaxing and packing for tomorrow’s flight to Maui. A dinner of Istanbul exotic leftovers, again out in the warm Hawaiian night under our now favourite cabana completes the evening. Before we all head for bed and an early start tomorrow for our flight to Maui. Where we will drive to Hana with Amanda’s brother Jim and wife Susan on Maui’s north coast to visit with Amanda’s sister Sandi and family Kaua, Tania, Cayman and Kingston.

A few days have passed since we arrived and we are both now in sync with the local time. We always marvel at the fact that we arrived before we left, but it hasn’t seemed to slow down the ticking clock. After our 8 year absence we expected to see great changes in the landscape along Ala Moana Blvd. We are happy to report that the changes that have occurred are fitting into the existing area well. A few more high rise apartment buildings with so called affordable housing accommodations have gone up while a number of rapidly deteriorating some would say historic buildings have now disappeared. The march of renewal continues further west along the coast despite the actual decrease in population, due mainly to the islands reliance on the mainland USA for most of its daily subsistence. The flow on inflationary trend resulting in cost of living pressures, driving the population to retreat to the mainland as the island becomes less and less affordable to the average Hawaiian resident. Meanwhile the decreasing lucky bathe in the warmth of a tropical sun cooled by light breezes on a seemingly endless cycle. The pandemic period now in the past, the last two years have seen tourism reach record high levels despite inflation raging in most western countries. Militarily speaking these islands are strategic gems in the US crown as a result receiving a great deal of mainland funding but still only coming second to tourism. The sugarcane industry is gone with agriculture now only a minor player in the states economy. In local news just in, the iconic Hawaiian pineapple still makes its way to the mainland USA via Amazon aircraft, that after resupplying their burgeoning Hawaiian business, had previously returned stateside, empty. Many other local manufacturers are taking advantage of this opportunity too. The locals we are told love chocolate, now with cocoa farms producing beans on the north shore access to larger markets is essential.

Honolulu boasts the largest outdoor shopping centre in the world, just a short walk from Kate’s apartment sits the Ala Moana shopping centre. With over 350 shops it boasts americas largest and most respected retailers, Bloomingdale’s, Macy’s, Marshalls, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, Ross Dress for Less, Saks Off 5th, and Target. Tourists and locals flock there to hunt for bargains or browse the extensive range of brands that outwardly always appear to be on sale. It’s no surprise that we find ourselves walking the avenues of the centre within the first days of our arrival. Mostly in our defence to shore up our communication options while here. With the high cost of using an Australian mobile service overseas it’s a pleasure to find the local telecom T-mobile can supply us with SIM cards for our phones for a fraction of the cost of extending the use of our Australian phones to the US.

The impetuous for this trip is twofold, both sad and joyous at the same time. With the recent passing of Kate’s beloved husband Jim the time for a family reunion seemed appropriate. Amanda’s brother Jim with wife Susan are the first to arrive from San Diego just hours after our landing.

The following day Kate has arranged for an off shore event taking us by catamaran into the waters directly out from her apartment on Ala Moana Boulevard. At the appointed time we make our way to a nearby marina to board the catamaran “Seascape” where the two man crew welcome us onboard. The weather is warm, clouds scud across the sky occasionally providing shady relief from a burning sun. Once we motor to a predetermined location we speak a few words in memory of Jim and Kate in a manner of speaking scatters Jim’s ashes wrapped in a neat package of Ti leaves into the waters of the Pacific Ocean. It’s an emotional moment, we toss yellow, pink and white rose petals onto the waters around the site, watching them glisten as they float alongside the diamond like flashes of reflected sunlight on the blue Hawaiian waters. After some quiet contemplation our captain Luke motors along the coast towards the Diamond head crater, eventually stopping opposite the iconic pink rendered Royal Hawaiian hotel, one of the oldest hotels in Honolulu, situated in the heart of Waikiki beach. From here we have a wonderful view of the islands southern coast line. On our return, the crew hoists the headsail taking advantage of the breeze to gently sail us back to the marina. Hawaiian Slack key guitar music plays in the background as we glide through the serenity of the blue waters. The waters are full of activity this morning surfers catch a wave while others patiently wait for the next wave break closer in-shore. The colourful chutes of Para-sailers dot the sky as various other craft below make their way along the coast as we take in the serenity of this memorable moment in time.

Back on shore it’s time for a late lunch/early dinner, Kate has chosen a restaurant in the nearby Kaka’ako district. Once a native Hawaiian agricultural community with fishing, salt making and farming at its core. This gave way to an industrial district in the early 1800’s with foundries and blue collar workers. Now it is a vibrant inner-city neighbourhood where hip young Hawaiians come to shop, dine, and drink. Walkability and livability comprise the current ethos. The area now boasts pedestrian-friendly footpaths and lots of wide-open spaces. Around almost every corner street art adorns the old repurposed industrial buildings. Where lively events are a constant “happening thing” and there are scores of hip spots to eat and drink.

Moku in English means a small parcel of land or allotment, harking back to the days when farmers farmed those allotments after colonialism introduced the previously unknown idea of land ownership to the Hawaiians. Moku Kitchen’s ethos is its commitment to using fresh, local ingredients, fostering a strong farm-to-table approach. They partner with local farmers and fishermen and even grow some of their own ingredients in a rooftop garden, This commitment supports the local agricultural community and reduces the restaurant’s environmental footprint. We dine on fresh produce, like house made ravioli stuffed with sweet roasted pumpkin. Local Ahi or Mahi Mahi, served with potato fries and fresh garden salads. To top this off exotic cocktails and imported wine fill out the menu.

Amanda’s brother Jimmy spots a nearby chocolate tasting bar offering free tastings. He soon disappears with wife Susan to investigate. In Australia I don’t think one would be able to enter such a shop for the crowds clamouring to get in. Here in Hawaii the pace is much more relaxed, in the ever present Aloha spirit. Of course this irresistible opportunity can’t pass us by and we are soon picking from the extensive tasting menu. After more than a few samples we have learnt plenty about the new cacao industry in Hawaii. Crunch time comes and we have to make a choice, mine is coffee with crunch and Amanda’s orange and vanilla. Another day draws to an end as the Hawaiian sun sets on another tropical day.

The midwinter blues should be settling in by now. With cold grey skies threatening to dump more rain on the green drought that South Australia finds itself in after a record breaking dry season. But no, we’ve kept warm by reviving memories of our past trips to the Hawaiian islands. Who would have thought how much warmth a photograph can generate. Bringing back those days of luau’s, hula dancing and slack key guitar pickers, as we soaked up the eternal sun. Now after an enforced break, that started with a pandemic and morphed into worldwide upheaval we find ourselves ready to take to the air, Hawaii bound once again. The world hasn’t stopped turning, life goes on in every corner of the planet, change though is a constant. Families grow like trees branching out, babies are born, before you know it they have graduated, married and had children of their own. In our world the branches have spread across the planet, dropping seeds in Australia, Sweden and America. While those seeds are scattered widely, particularly in America, we are lucky that the nearest overseas family resides in the 50th US State, just 9 hours and 25 minutes away from Sydney by Boeing 737. The Aloha spirit awaits, the word itself wrapping, love, affection, peace, compassion and mercy all into one unique greeting. That can be used as a welcome or farewell. More now than ever the world needs to embrace aloha, and we can’t wait to be bathed in its warm light. We have long found that Honolulu is the without doubt the friendliest gateway to the USA, the holiday mood palpable the instant you step through onto US soil. Even usually dour border control officers have a welcoming smile on their faces. This is still in the future as we make our way along glistening rain soaked roads under a pale cold southern sun to Adelaide international airport.

We arrive in Sydney as the sun is going down washing the horizon in an orange glow that reflects off the cities glass clad buildings. Once on the ground we make our way to the international terminal. After all these years by means of a bus, no modern monorail for this countries preeminent city, that sees millions of international visitors daily. The cool of the night is drawing in as we board the bus, for a chilly ten minute ride. Our next challenge in this tricky game of international transit is to navigate border control’s automatic passport station. Passports at the ready a steady queue of passengers file through the gates, like sheep to be shorn. My turn comes and I’m too slow off the mark exiting the facial scan, alarms beep loudly, as this worldly traveller shrinks to the size of General Tom Thumb. I don’t look back as I make a hurried exit. Once clear I look back, Amanda is stuck repeatedly scanning her passport as it rejects her attempts each time. Seconds that start to seem like minutes pass, with fidgeting passengers behind her before an officer realises there is a log jam at her gate. Eventually coming to her rescue by advising she presents her US passport instead. Magically that works and she’s through, a little bewildered by the process that put her US citizenship ahead of her Australian, but that’s the mixed up digital world we live in.

A huge mechanical face in motion stares at us from an optical store, as we pass through the high end retail area, on our way to the Qantas lounge. Where time passes as our flight to Honolulu approaches.

The next leg of our journey is soon upon us, all goes well as we settle in for a meal and a movie. Meal service is disappointingly slow, we are half way through the two hour plus Bob Dylan bio pic before we see food. With flight time around 9 hours we desperately want to enjoy some sleep before we arrive to relive the 14th of July. Reliving the early Bob Dylan years took us back to our lives as teenagers. The Cuban missile crises, JFK’s assassination and importantly to us teenagers the musical and cultural upheaval those times brought with them. Bob Dylan penned it all, the times they were definitely changing.

We have started our descent in to Honolulu as I write this, a shaky landing but we are here.

Our entry to this US territory is smooth, a short ride on a wiki wiki bus, a far cry from the mundane ride between terminals in Sydney. Maybe they should call them Hoppers (think kangaroo). We disembark and are through border control in a flash with Aloha’s all the way. Suitcases collected, sunglasses on we walk out of the airport to a 30c tropical day. Taxi’s line the kerbside cab rank, no waiting as a diminutive Hawaiian of chinese ancestry loads our bags into the back of a Tesla, our first electric car ride. Safely within we are quietly whisked off to the Hokua building on Ala Moana Blvd where sister Kate is waiting to greet us. Our holiday reunion begins!