A few days have passed since we arrived and we are both now in sync with the local time. We always marvel at the fact that we arrived before we left, but it hasn’t seemed to slow down the ticking clock. After our 8 year absence we expected to see great changes in the landscape along Ala Moana Blvd. We are happy to report that the changes that have occurred are fitting into the existing area well. A few more high rise apartment buildings with so called affordable housing accommodations have gone up while a number of rapidly deteriorating some would say historic buildings have now disappeared. The march of renewal continues further west along the coast despite the actual decrease in population, due mainly to the islands reliance on the mainland USA for most of its daily subsistence. The flow on inflationary trend resulting in cost of living pressures, driving the population to retreat to the mainland as the island becomes less and less affordable to the average Hawaiian resident. Meanwhile the decreasing lucky bathe in the warmth of a tropical sun cooled by light breezes on a seemingly endless cycle. The pandemic period now in the past, the last two years have seen tourism reach record high levels despite inflation raging in most western countries. Militarily speaking these islands are strategic gems in the US crown as a result receiving a great deal of mainland funding but still only coming second to tourism. The sugarcane industry is gone with agriculture now only a minor player in the states economy. In local news just in, the iconic Hawaiian pineapple still makes its way to the mainland USA via Amazon aircraft, that after resupplying their burgeoning Hawaiian business, had previously returned stateside, empty. Many other local manufacturers are taking advantage of this opportunity too. The locals we are told love chocolate, now with cocoa farms producing beans on the north shore access to larger markets is essential.
Honolulu boasts the largest outdoor shopping centre in the world, just a short walk from Kate’s apartment sits the Ala Moana shopping centre. With over 350 shops it boasts americas largest and most respected retailers, Bloomingdale’s, Macy’s, Marshalls, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, Ross Dress for Less, Saks Off 5th, and Target. Tourists and locals flock there to hunt for bargains or browse the extensive range of brands that outwardly always appear to be on sale. It’s no surprise that we find ourselves walking the avenues of the centre within the first days of our arrival. Mostly in our defence to shore up our communication options while here. With the high cost of using an Australian mobile service overseas it’s a pleasure to find the local telecom T-mobile can supply us with SIM cards for our phones for a fraction of the cost of extending the use of our Australian phones to the US.
The impetuous for this trip is twofold, both sad and joyous at the same time. With the recent passing of Kate’s beloved husband Jim the time for a family reunion seemed appropriate. Amanda’s brother Jim with wife Susan are the first to arrive from San Diego just hours after our landing.
The following day Kate has arranged for an off shore event taking us by catamaran into the waters directly out from her apartment on Ala Moana Boulevard. At the appointed time we make our way to a nearby marina to board the catamaran “Seascape” where the two man crew welcome us onboard. The weather is warm, clouds scud across the sky occasionally providing shady relief from a burning sun. Once we motor to a predetermined location we speak a few words in memory of Jim and Kate in a manner of speaking scatters Jim’s ashes wrapped in a neat package of Ti leaves into the waters of the Pacific Ocean. It’s an emotional moment, we toss yellow, pink and white rose petals onto the waters around the site, watching them glisten as they float alongside the diamond like flashes of reflected sunlight on the blue Hawaiian waters. After some quiet contemplation our captain Luke motors along the coast towards the Diamond head crater, eventually stopping opposite the iconic pink rendered Royal Hawaiian hotel, one of the oldest hotels in Honolulu, situated in the heart of Waikiki beach. From here we have a wonderful view of the islands southern coast line. On our return, the crew hoists the headsail taking advantage of the breeze to gently sail us back to the marina. Hawaiian Slack key guitar music plays in the background as we glide through the serenity of the blue waters. The waters are full of activity this morning surfers catch a wave while others patiently wait for the next wave break closer in-shore. The colourful chutes of Para-sailers dot the sky as various other craft below make their way along the coast as we take in the serenity of this memorable moment in time.
Back on shore it’s time for a late lunch/early dinner, Kate has chosen a restaurant in the nearby Kaka’ako district. Once a native Hawaiian agricultural community with fishing, salt making and farming at its core. This gave way to an industrial district in the early 1800’s with foundries and blue collar workers. Now it is a vibrant inner-city neighbourhood where hip young Hawaiians come to shop, dine, and drink. Walkability and livability comprise the current ethos. The area now boasts pedestrian-friendly footpaths and lots of wide-open spaces. Around almost every corner street art adorns the old repurposed industrial buildings. Where lively events are a constant “happening thing” and there are scores of hip spots to eat and drink.
Moku in English means a small parcel of land or allotment, harking back to the days when farmers farmed those allotments after colonialism introduced the previously unknown idea of land ownership to the Hawaiians. Moku Kitchen’s ethos is its commitment to using fresh, local ingredients, fostering a strong farm-to-table approach. They partner with local farmers and fishermen and even grow some of their own ingredients in a rooftop garden, This commitment supports the local agricultural community and reduces the restaurant’s environmental footprint. We dine on fresh produce, like house made ravioli stuffed with sweet roasted pumpkin. Local Ahi or Mahi Mahi, served with potato fries and fresh garden salads. To top this off exotic cocktails and imported wine fill out the menu.
Amanda’s brother Jimmy spots a nearby chocolate tasting bar offering free tastings. He soon disappears with wife Susan to investigate. In Australia I don’t think one would be able to enter such a shop for the crowds clamouring to get in. Here in Hawaii the pace is much more relaxed, in the ever present Aloha spirit. Of course this irresistible opportunity can’t pass us by and we are soon picking from the extensive tasting menu. After more than a few samples we have learnt plenty about the new cacao industry in Hawaii. Crunch time comes and we have to make a choice, mine is coffee with crunch and Amanda’s orange and vanilla. Another day draws to an end as the Hawaiian sun sets on another tropical day.
