Hawaiian Family Reunion Cont…

A bright early start to the day this morning. Even the little muddy green and red palm finch that taps religiously at our window every morning, didn’t wake us. His tap tap tapping usually acting as our alarm clock right on 6.30am. Flying in from his nearby palm tree home as the sun comes up he daily faces his nemesis reflected in the mirrored windows of our apartment suite Whether the little avian perceives a threat from his own reflection or just enjoys listening to his own tapping sound we will never know.

A pleasant surprise awaits us as we leave for Honolulu airport for our trip to Maui, our taxi driver from previous visits is here to pick us up. I recognise him immediately, he’s name is Jimmy and he’s hasn’t changed a bit in the years since our last trip. He soon transports us all, with our luggage, to the Hawaiian airlines domestic airport terminal. There are no unforeseen hiccups with just a short wait before take to the air on our Hawaiian airlines flight 226 to Kahului, Maui. It seems just as we reach peak altitude that we are touching down again. The plane lands with a shake rattle and roll as the crafts wheels hit the tarmac and we are once again safely on the ground. Once we pickup our bags it’s a short tram ride to the rental car pickup area, a big improvement to the buses used in previous trips. At Alamo rental car depot the vehicle pickup system is highly automated. We pick up our designated car from rows of various models lined up in the garage, on this occasion a Nissan Altima. Now the fun part loading our suitcases and associated carryon bags into the trunk of the car, note the Americanism here, we’ve left the land of the boot behind. After just a little pushing and shoving the four various sized suitcase fit snugly into the car, along with some of the carryons. Amanda’s brother Jimmy takes the wheel, I set my phone navigation system for the nearest Foodland grocery outlet and we are on our way. The Foodland stores here are not connected to the Australian brand of the same name but are everywhere here, selling a wide range of groceries, alcohol and other convenience products. Even, as it turns out ready made sandwiches & wraps to go. My phones GPS calls out the directions, but using kilometres or parts there of between turns, Jimmy handles the conversion easily and we are soon at our destination. Since it’s now midday we pickup some lunch and healthy snack foods, and some not so healthy ones, to fuel us for the 2 hour 30 minute scenic drive along Maui’s northern coast line to Hana on the north western tip of the island. The remote destination is only 84km or 52 miles but the road is narrow and so full of sharp bends and turns, that we have to continually stop or slowdown to give way to oncoming traffic.

This is the wet side of the island, the entire trip zig zags through dense green jungle on both sides with occasional glimpses of the ocean on the downward slope to our left and cascading waterfalls on our right. Feral invasive bamboo, has spread out over many hillsides creating a sea of lime green clumps of gently swaying foliage. Delineated by shadowy outlines, giving the moving carpet depth and texture. A beautiful scene as the clumps flow in unison with the breezes. Problem is that it is these plants with their running root reproduction process that is killing off native species by crowding out the sunlight above and strangling their root systems below.. There are many waterfalls or water courses along the way collecting water from the steep rain soaked hills that send their runoff down towards the ocean. For each of these waterfalls or water courses there is a bridge, 59 of them to be exact, 46 are restricted to one lane only. These bridges in most cases date back to 1910 and are often under repair as the constant movement of water drags rocky debris down the slopes. Besides the bridges there are 620 curves, keeping Jimmy in a state of constant awareness. Luckily none of us suffer from car sickness, but the warmth and constant swaying of the car left to right makes one a little sleepy. For me the ever changing landscape keeps my eyes from closing throughout the trip. There are many plants we recognise from Australia, like the African Tulip tree with its scarlet bloom, and towering eucalyptus with pink striated trunks, reminiscent of the snow gums in Australia’s high country. Flashes of bright red yellow tipped Heliconia blooms stand out, drooping down on their pliable stems. While rope like jungle vines hang from the thick lush jungle above. In places below the jungle canopy ferns cling to the sheer lava cliffs, still moist from recent rains. It seems that we are driving through an ancient prehistoric world where rainforest meets the black lava sands of the ocean.

Along with the ever changing tropical landscapes and the quick stops to snap a waterfall the time goes by quickly. Hana is situated on the coast, directly off the highway that has now turned south, reaching a substantial bay with Waikoloa Beach at the northern end and Hana beach at the southern end. The township centre is sandwiched between the coast and the highway. According to the 2020 census 1526 people lived here in one of the Hawaii’s most remotest settlements. The population has declined since then to a mere 796. A downturn that started with the pandemic’s 8 month lockdown and became further exasperated by the 2023 Lahaina fires. Fires that wiped out a whole community reliant on tourism as its main source of income. Of course there is much more to Maui than Lahaina, and tourism is needed more than ever to rebuild these devastated communities.

Once we locate the hotel, now known as the Hyatt Maui Hana resort, we settle in to our ocean view room, more of a cottage or small cabin. A free upgrade from the garden view rooms we had previously booked. The views from the cottage are stunning as is the surrounding property, even more stunning than I remember from our last visit here in 2016. After making contact with Amanda’s sister Sandi I head to the pool with Jimmy, as our services are not required, while Amanda unpacks and Susan attends to some laundry.

The temperature here is maybe 1-2 degrees cooler than Honolulu tapering off as the sun goes down. For the first time I’ll wear long pants for dinner, to be had at “The Ranch” restaurant adjacent to the hotel. Besides us four travellers, sister Sandi, Kaua, Tania with their two boys Cayman and Kingston are present. Cayman now a tall handsome teenager, who suffers from ADHD is intently focused, he proudly tells us he writing a book based on the world’s mythological creatures. His other passion is cinematic costume design and the art of making those designs come to life using the basic materials he has to hand. Then there is Kingston a small energetic blond 8 year old version of his Dad, Kaua. Living here it’s no surprise that he is half fish being introduced to the water at a very early age. Kingston on our last visit just a rather large bump in his mother tummy when we last saw this family in 2017. The restaurant has some delicious fresh food, ribs, steaks, burgers and salads very much in the American style. Amanda and I enjoyed the fish sandwich all eaten outside, cabana style in the breezy tropical warmth.

The next day starts off slowly, a lazy breakfast that extends into brunch. On our way back to our room the gardeners are trimming the coconut palms, quite a feat for these chainsaw wielding men dangling at 15-20 meters off the ground. Palm fronds fall to the ground along with seed pods that once held golden tentacled flowers thick with baby coconuts. These weird natural art forms lay scattered on the ground to be gathered up and composted but would look wonderful dried out and featured in floral art displays.

The extensive lawned grounds are also hunting fields for a small white egret, they saunter around the grassy areas looking for small grubs or worms. They spread out, each giving themselves a few square metres of space, disputes erupt in a flurry of feathers if they should wander into another birds territory. Momentarily disturbing the peace before the intruder is chased off and the flock goes back to their hunting. You might see a mongoose or two shoot out of a hidden lair under one of the many cottage rooms, on its journey to another such hiding place. Mongoose came to the island in the 1800’s ostensibly brought in to control rats, unwanted immigrants that had found their way off the many ships that called into Lahaina port. They controlled the rats admirably but they then turned their attention to the rare tropical bird’s eggs that once inhabited these islands, becoming an invasive species til this day.

Next a visit with Sandi at her cute cottage in the jungle. The perimeters of her property are thick with tall tropical plant species, some fruiting, papaya, banana and avocado trees laden with glossy green fruit are there for the picking. Also flowering species like Heliconia, plumeria and white ginger, among others. There are other creatures lurking in the jungle such as this cute little gecko that paid us a visit. See photo below.

We spend the remainder of the afternoon at the hotel pool with Sandi, Kaua, Cayman and Kingston.

The day finishes back at Sandi’s with a Thai feast prepared by a local who married a Thai girl. The food is super fresh and delicious, definitely authentic Thai. We have acquired some wine along the way an international mix, of French, USA, New Zealand & Portuguese, sadly no Australian, in my humble opinion the promotion of cheap Australians wine here does us a disservice, not showing off the incredible depth of quality and range quality that we as a country has to offer, a missed opportunity. Seventeen year old Cayman joins us and regales us with stories of the mythological creatures he has a particular interest in. Surprisingly he knows of one Australian creature known as the Yara-ma-yha-who from aboriginal mythology that I have never heard of. I am very disbelieving until he produces internet proof? I’ve known a few Yah Who’s in my time but this one I’ve not come across. I’m left feeling this is all an elaborate joke, must investigate further when back at home. I tell him about the Murray River Bunyip, surprisingly he has heard of this mythological creature, that very few in our own community know about.

Darkness descends on this little remote jungle community and we say our farewells arranging to meet up again with Sandi tomorrow. Back at the hotel the grounds are lit up, lanterns illuminate the pathways. Other illuminations light up the tree canopies and sculpturally pruned tree trunks as we make our way downhill to our tropical cottage in the warm scented air.

Another day dawns, Hana time is sinking in, we are sloooooowiiiing down. Jimmy and Susan had already hiked up to Fagan’s Cross before we made it to breakfast. Phew! I am tired even thinking about it.

In the hills just west of the Hana township sits a stone cross overlooking the bay. The cross is known as Fagan’s Cross created in 1960 situated on Lyons Hill 166 meters above sea level. The cross is a memorial to Paul Fagan who established cattle farming in the district and built the resort known as the Travaasa, now the Hyatt where we are staying.

After breakfast of tropical, fruit and strong black American coffee. We walk down to Hana Beach Park with Jimmy & Susan, where a statue of Queen Kaahumanu stands looking inland.

Queen Ka’ahunanu lived between 1768 & 1832, a striking woman born of a high caste in Hawaiian society she is recognised today as a powerful figure in Hawaiian history. Well known for her political skill and significant influence during a period of major social and cultural change. Her leadership helped shape the unified Hawaiian Kingdom and its transition to a westernised society. A favourite wife of King Kamehameha I under whose rule the islands became unified. After his death in 1819 she became premier co-regent sharing governance with Kamehameha II.

The weather today is around 27c clouds heavy with moisture cover the surrounding green hills and out to sea where we can see the rain sheeting down to the steely grey ocean. Patches of blue sky appear above us as the sun tries desperately to banish the clouds. We are thankful for the cloud cover though as we make our way to Sandi’s cottage along the narrow roads that we need to traverse to arrive there. There are no footpaths along the way just a narrow verge that is mostly boarded by black lava rock-walls sprouting small lime green mossy looking ferns. Together we spend some more time with Sandi whose mobility is limited before making arrangements to transport her to the the hotel pool to spend the afternoon with us.

The homes we pass along the way, might look like shacks but they stand on plots of gold with median house price in Hana around US$1m.

Now hungry we make our way back to the hotel, passing a Thai restaurant known as Pranee’s, this is essentially two food trucks, one ancient looking that sit under a timber structure with decking that brings one to the level above the trucks wheels. The trucks are nestled into a hillside surrounded by a jungle like garden with mountain views. The food on offer is pictured on a menu board, so that diners can garner an idea of the type of food they will be eating. Some of the dishes on the display board are already sold out. We make our choices and are soon munching on some deliciously freshly made Thai food.

The rest of our last afternoon is spent by the pool with Sandi and Cayman who is staying with Sandi, his Nan, while the rest of his family is back in Kahului.

As night descends we are back at the Ranch restaurant for our final night with Sandi and Cayman in this magical place. Tomorrow we fly to the Big Island for the next stage of the family reunion.