Waikiki Arrival

Sunday 23rd July
White caps on the blue ocean this morning a little breezy out on the water, but never the less another beautiful day. Too bad we have to leave, but more adventures are calling us onwards. After our usual in room breakfast we print our boarding passes in the lobby (a neat service) call the bell hop to take our bags to the Porte-Cochere and descend to the parking garage to collect our bags. We are soon loaded and on our way to the Kahului airport. We top up with gas (petrol) in Lahaina with no problems except our debit card is rejected for the first time. Problem soon solved, we move on, not a lot of traffic on the road this morning, the locals all enjoying a lazy Sunday morning no doubt. The weekend beach campers are still camped under the scrubby trees along the coastline by the golden sands, foamy white waves rippling in from a turquoise ocean that deepens to sapphire blue as your eye is drawn further out. Youngsters frolic in the surf as we whizz by on our ribbon of black top road towards our destination. The drive is an easy one, we arrive at the airport in plenty of time, turn in the trusty little red Hyundai Elantra and shuttle back to the airport terminal. Security as usual is packed with travellers and their associated paraphernalia, one couple with a young child have about a mile of stuff to feed though the security scanners. Amanda has a panic attack as we approach security, she can’t find her boarding pass, it has fluttered out of her hand at some point, a fellow traveler thinks they saw the pass on the floor Amanda goes searching while I step aside. Another traveller tells her they have passed the pass in to security. We re join the line. When we reach security the officer has the pass in her hand, she asks if she is Amanda Palmer, with a broad smile she says yes and we pass through relieved. The flight is on time, we board for our up and down flight to Oahu. My window seat allows me a good view of the islands of a Lanai and Molokai as we leave Maui. This allows me to take a couple of video clips to use on my trip movie. No Sooner than we are up we are down again landing in Honolulu. It was sad to leave Maui but we have such great memories of the Wedding and the incredibly enjoyable times we ave spent with Amanda’s family.

Goodbye Maui

Before leaving we called Jimmy the taxi driver, a reliable and jovial little Vietnamese fellow that goes the extra mile for his customers, we call him whenever we need a cab in Honolulu and true to form he is just pulling into the pickup point as we wheel our cases into the area. Jimmy drives us into Waikiki to our destination the Royal Hawaiian Hotel, a grand old hotel on the beach front that conjures up the feeling of old Hawaii, like Raffles did for Singapore before they overdeveloped it. The Royal Hawaiian although developed, with new modern towers still retains the old buildings and the historical feel with tropical gardens and lawns. Wide cloisters and arcades that run around the outside of the ground floor contain elegant shops and at points act as breeze ways to allow the ocean air to flow through the building to cool it. Outside the beach bar offers all day snacks and cocktails, once we check in and are shown to our room we head off in that direction, both feeling hungry. This part of Waikiki is wall to wall people, the beach is loaded with bikini clad girls and bronzed males vying for that perfect patch of sand. Pink beach umbrellas line the fence line that marks the hotels limits, and beyond the palest of milky blue oceans plays host to surfers, canoes and catamarans in a whirl of motion. The largest black surf ski I have ever seen sits out in the ocean, a lone rider, maybe a patrolling surf lifesaver looking out for anyone that runs into trouble. While Diamond head crater watches over all the activities from above the bay as it curves eastward. I order a Pina Colada and Amanda a house Chardonnay, we sip away on these under a cloudless blue sky, no signs of the hurricane here today. Our lobster brioche rolls arrive, a fitting luxurious lunch for such a setting. Eat up no dinner tonight our over indulgence is catching up with us. 

Waikiki Beach Umbrellas
Pina Colada time

We return to our room and unpack before taking the rest of the evening off for an early night to recharge our batteries in full for tomorrow.

Last Day in Lahaina, Maui

Saturday 22nd July
The hurricane out in the pacific to the north east of us is still affecting the weather here pushing more cloud cover our way. The warmth still continues unabated, the resort pools filled with laughter as holiday makers splash about relentlessly cooling off. Rainbows decorate the hills behind us with their multicoloured ribbons as light planes land at the small hilltop airport just visible from our room. The resort does seem quieter than our last visit in May 2016, talking with employees and taxi drivers seems to confirm that this season is a little down on last.
We are about to have breakfast when we receive a call from Amanda’s brother Jimmy. They have checked out of their hotel in Lahaina to go to the airport only to be informed by the taxi driver that a four car collision has occurred on the main road out of Lahaina. The collision occurred on a narrow part of the road that sits between rocky cliffs covered in wire netting that is supposed to contain any shards of rock that shear off the cliff face and the hillside that runs down to the ocean. An unfortunate passenger or driver is apparently trapped in one of the vehicles, the result is that the road is blocked and will be for several hours, cutting off access to the airport. 

Jimmy, Susan and Gaby are stuck in paradise, they have booked a hotel in Kahului for the night and rescheduled their flights to tomorrow. We invite them over to have breakfast and spend the day at our hotel, hanging out. 

It is our last day here, we want to ship some items home and visit Lahaina one last time to investigate the historical sites and museums there. After Jimmy and co arrive and settle in they decide to go to Whalers Village a seaside shopping complex. We take off to complete our tasks dropping them off on the way. 

Wo Hing Meeting Hall

The museum consists of the original Chinese meeting House on Front street called the Wo Hing Centre, where the Chinese community set up a support group for the men that came out from china as indentured workers on contracts of five years or more. Many married in China before they left, not to bring their wives as they were unable to, but to tie them to their homelands. They would then send back money to their extended family at home, who often lived in squalid conditions. China was continually plagued by conflict at this time, warring factions roaming the countryside seeking conscripts, giving young men the added impetus to seek a better existence or die as a forced soldier in one army or another.

Along side this building is the cookhouse, remarkably in original condition, complete with wood fired stoves that housed giant woks to feed the workers. The cookhouse was also used as a theatre as it is today currently showing original motion picture films of Hawaii shot by Thomas Edison in the late 19th and very early 20th century, fascinating viewing indeed. The Front street facade looked very different in the early days, sitting on a Harbour as it does there where many fish markets run by the Japanese or Chinese ex plantation workers that stayed on and started businesses. 

Giant Wok ( One of Three) in the Cook House
Coolie Hat
Inside the Cook House

Next we visit the site of the first mission house built from lava boulders and then plastered over. Prior to this the missionaries lived in primitive conditions similar to the natives, dirt floors, woven roofs thatched out of available dried plant and grass materials. Walls would be only a few feet high to allow the breezes to flow through the house. 


Originally built in 1834 for Ephraim Spaulding the New England style cottage house was mostly occupied by the missionary Doctor, Dwight Baldwin and wife Charlotte who succeeded Spaulding after he became ill and had to return to Massachusetts. The newly arrived couple had just married when they left New England and eventually had eight children, two not surviving past age three due to dysentery. A second story was added to the building in 1849 to to accommodate the growing family. The house was restored in the 1960’s but is still incomplete due to lack of funds, amazing since it is such a big part of Lahaina history and so many wealth people live here. The native Hawaiians always friendly, welcomed the missionaries and superficially accepted the new white mans God thinking it must be a powerful entity. They attended prayer services but the missionaries failed to completely convert the Hawaiians to Christianity, many still inwardly continued to believe in the power of their native gods. We chat with a native Hawaiian women at the house she tells us the meaning of the towns name, “Lahaina” it means “Relentless Sun”


We are certainly feeling it today not a breeze comes off the ocean or down from the mountains. We stick to the shade as much as possible, making our way towards an ice cream parlour for a refreshing ice cream before driving back to Ka’anapali and our guests.
Our guests are resting up on our return, having had there fill of shopping, sand and sun. We spend the remains of the afternoon chatting about our holiday experiences and current events in our respective countries while teenager Gaby snoozes on, on the couch.
Rainbows continue to appear and disappear behind us as the sun moves ever closer to the ocean through increasing cloud cover. Jim and Susan rouse Gaby, it’s time for them to drive to their hotel in Kahului, eliminating any possibility of a repeat of yesterday’s delay. Once we see them off, we return to the room and Amanda completes our packing for departure tomorrow. We make ourselves a meal using up the last of our supplies, cheese tortellini in a spicy tomato based pasta sauce. Open up the last of our wine, an Australian Shiraz labelled Layercake produced by Orlando probably for export for the US market, the wine certainly has a lighter feel to it, like many Californian reds. Apart from a few specialty wine shops good Australian wine is hard to find, plenty of cheaper export labels available. This I think has given Americans the wrong impression of Australian wine.

We spend our last night on the balcony in the warm night air overlooking the flickering torchlight of the resort and the myriad of path lights that light up the various pathways around the now dark tropical gardens. An occasional light from a passing boat breaks the darkness like star to far from heaven the ocean now one with the sky.

Tomorrow we fly to Honolulu 

The Party Ends

Friday 21st July

We awake to another day, the clouds have again stretched down from their mountain homes almost to the sea. Hurricane Fernando has burnt itself out in the pacific creating a remnant low pressure system that is moving towards the islands affecting our weather some what. Worse days are ahead in Honolulu but should be brief. Troy, Heather and family leave today for home, Kylie, Peter & family leave for a few days in Honolulu before they too leave for home. Jim & Kate also leave to go back to their island home on Oahu. The party is breaking up, but what a party! so great to catch-up with all of Amanda’s family and have our own here to experience this wonderful event and location. We are so thankful to have such a wonderful far flung family that when together it’s as if we have never been apart. Matthew has already arrived back in Sydney before heading home to Adelaide. Sandi has also driven back to her home in Hana, while Kaua and Tania await the birth of their child Kingston due around the end of July at Kahului hospital. Gary and Tracey too have returned to their Big Island Hawaiian home. 
After breakfast we relax for awhile, Amanda forever the laundry mistress keeps those machines buzzing around. It’s not until around midday that we hear from Jim, Susan & Gaby, they are on their way to enjoy the beach and pool facilities here at Honua Kai for the last time as they leave for home tomorrow. Troy, Heather and family having checked out of their hotel are also heading our way so that the kids can enjoy a last swim in our hotels pool, that has a swim through cave and a large waterslide.

Jimmy, Susan & Gaby arrive first, Jimmy & Susan head for the beach leaving Gaby with us. The clouds to our north are threatening rain with rainbows appearing fleetingly. Gaby and Calista have hit it off, now firm friends they want to spend their remaining time together. Troy & Heather arrive next and head off to the pool with all but Calista. Calista and Gaby take up positions on the couch to watch on their phones the musical Hamilton, singing along in harmony to each song as they play out on their tiny screens. Great fun to listen to them enjoying themselves, if a little noisy but they are teenagers! In truth they both have great singing voices.
We have a lunch of wraps from the lobby market up in our room before Troy and Heather ready themselves for their trip to the airport. They are a little sad to be leaving Cadence loves Hawaii and doesn’t want to leave, while ten year old Aubrey expresses her feelings perfectly “she is sad to leave but excited to be going home to see her friends again” the older kids can use their phones to communicate with their friends but Aubrey is just a little too young at this point in time.
Amanda and I will drive to the airport separately, with the families excess luggage, although their vehicle is big, the available luggage space is limited. 

We load up the luggage, Calista and Gaby with us the rest of the children with Troy and Heather. Their is a funny moment when Justin is asked to decide which vehicle he wants to travel in, he looks at the fully loaded rental car with the young ones, Abbey, Aubrey & Cadence, you can almost see is decision making process, “oh no this could be the ride from hell” then he looks at our car, much smaller with two teenage girls, singing away in the back seat. What a decision, he looks this way and that, thinking “do I really have to do this” mum hurries him up, make a decision Justin. Justin hurriedly decides on our car and settles in but is not going to sit between these two but next to Calista where he then mentally blocks out the scratchy harmonics and looses himself in the solace of his phones offerings.
We head off to the airport, the girls singing non stop all the way, but it’s a quick easy drive and we are there in 35 minutes. Unload and walk to the terminal where we meet Troy, Heather and the younger girls. We say our goodbyes for now, I remind them of more fun to come when grandma and grandpa come to stay. Not sure if that impresses the kids or depresses them. They all then proceed through security and their awaiting flight to Philadelphia via Dallas.
Although we enjoyed light traffic out of Lahaina we did notice that the traffic in the incoming direction was heavy. We had hoped that it would clear but now readying ourselves to leave the airport by bringing up our directions home from the phones navigation system the information provided tells us we have a ninety minute journey ahead of us. The road is clear until the Lahaina turnoff and we are back on the Honoapiilani highway, then the traffic crawls to a halt. Slowly, very slowly we inch towards our destination. Gaby in the back, now silent as she is plugged into her device with no singing partner, it’s a quiet but long journey home.
Finally we arrive at our destination in time to shower and ready ourselves for dinner. Tonight we are meeting Jim and Susan at Pacific’O on Front street. 

Pacific’O Restaurant is another of Lahaina’s beachfront dining experiences, their mantra being a new standard for Farm-to-Table cuisine on Maui. Boasting a 24 year history Pacific’O on the Beach offers recipes inspired by local ingredients and the “best-view-in-town” for your lunch or dinner.

“We support local farmers and own O’o Farm which supplies us daily with fresh organic produce. Fresh fish delivered daily” their website proudly announces.
We take a taxi into Lahaina arriving a little ahead of time, the restaurant is situated in a small outdoor shopping complex with an Art Gallery, Jewellers 

and restaurants. The restaurants are right on the ocean front with beautiful sea views, catamarans and other small craft bob up and down in the grey green water.

Sitting in the Harbour is an unusual vessel, not passenger, not cargo we will see if we can find out all about it. Jim and Susan are waiting for us as we arrive at Pacific’O. The restaurant is all blond wood and white linen tablecloths, windows are open to take in the Harbour views. We take our seats and order a cocktail each a Mai Tai for her and a Piña Colada for me. Then settle in and revue the menu finally deciding to share a House salad of Blue cheese, smoked bacon, heirloom carrots, in a soy citrus vinaigrette and for main course I have Ti leaf Fish, wrapped in a Ti leaf is a completely unpronounceable fish that I am assured is excellent covered in a spicy lemongrass Thai marinade and served with an orange beurre blanc sauce with sautéed O’o farm green beans, beech mushrooms, cherry tomato, and hapa rice. Amanda has The vegetarian dish, of crispy rice gnocchi, heirloom tomatoes, O’o Farm fresh pesto, percorino cheese and kukui nuts. For something different than our usual chardonnay or Pinot Gris we chose a 2014 Truchard, Roussanne from Carneros Napa Valley, California to accompany the meal.

While we are waiting for our meals we ask after the mysterious ship in the Harbour, Amanda has guessed right it is a research vessel, we didn’t know that it is owned by Berkely University, California, apparently the bear on the ships funnel says it all. Must be a pretty cashed up university to run a ship like this one I suggest, I am assured by my Californian friends at the table that it is.
The meal is excellent definitely in the top two of our visit. After dinner we walk south along Front street in the balmy nighttime air, to the main tourist area to buy a gelato at Ono’s Gelato bar, the flavours are many and varied, many too rich for me. I decide on Kona coffee macadamia nut and Amanda the chocolate macadamia, all delicious. Jim Susan and Gaby head off back to their hotel while we stop for a while in the street to devour our purchases then we walk to Fleetwood’s and call our cabby to take us back to Honua Kai and our beds.

Last day on Maui tomorrow lots to do before we depart.

Polynesian Luau

Thursday 20th July
An early morning start for us this morning as we prepare to take Matt To Kahului airport for his return trip to Honolulu and home. Matt certainly has shopped well while here, his experience in retail and his frugal lifestyle make him the perfect bargain hunter. Now though the chickens come home to roost, those extra pounds & kilos need to be expertly packed into his suitcase, just as well mum is on hand!
All packed we are ready to hit the road by 8.00am a 40 minute drive and plenty of time for him to make his 10.00am flight to Honolulu. He as had a great time meeting again as an adult the US side of his family and exploring another side of his roots. And so it is that we drop him off at the airport say our somewhat sad goodbyes to drive back again to Ka’anapali. 
Our early start has paid off we are back in time to catchup on domestics and my blog that has fallen behind due to our very busy schedule over the last few days.

We manage a few hours to ourselves before our lunch guests arrive in the lobby. Peter, Kylie, Krystal, Ken, Tyson and Alissa are here to have lunch with us, they have had a wonderful time so far and we are anxious to hear their stories and bath in their excitement. Lunch is at Dukes, the hotels only beach bar and restaurant over looking the ocean. We have a wonderful light tropical lunch starting with a cocktail, listening to their stories, their excitement infectious, they will all no doubt all be visiting these magical islands again at sometime in their lives. We finish off sharing a slice of Hula Pie, a local ice cream cake shaped like a volcano with macadamia nuts and chocolate lava. Delicious if a little sweet!
We say our goodbyes to Peter and Kylie they leave for Honolulu and a Waikiki experience tomorrow. We are treating all of our grandkids, new and old to a sunset to night-time luau at the Westin hotel tonight, also in Kaanapali just a few minutes away from our hotel. We arrange for them to meet Jimmy, Susan, Gaby and Troy and Heathers crew in the lobby of The Outrigger where they are all staying and for them all to meet us at the Westin at 5.30pm for the show.
We have a few more hours to ourselves, I quickly finish up the longest blog I have written and deservedly so, for the wedding day was a wondrous day indeed. If you want to see more photos of that day https://www.facebook.com/groups/405391093136311/ one guest alone posted 143 photos to this site.
At the appointed time we descend to the lobby to meet our cab and we are off to the Westin for our luau experience. We arrive first followed by Abbey, Cadence, Aubrey, Calista, Gaby & Susan. Then soon after Krystal, Ken, Tyson, Alissa, Justin and Jimmy. We are soon shown to our tables outside in the Aloha Pavillon. Actually there is a large buffet food service and bar area inside that then spills out onto an outside space with another food service area that stretches into the eating area filled with large tables dressed for dinner service. We are shown to our premium tables, we wanted to make sure all the kids had the best possible view, not disappointed they are right in front of the stage.

The stage for the show is then set in front of a raised pond that sits at the base of a rocky cliff face with surrounding tropical plantings and coconut trees their curved trunks reaching skyward. The show is a multi nation Polynesian experience showing off the dress, music and dancing styles of Hawaii, Fiji, Samoa, Tahiti and New Zealand. 

Before dinner service we are invited to have our pictures taken by a professional photographer, young Hawaiian girls adorn us with leis as we slip into tourist mode to have these special memories documented as images we can revisit and share.


The area adjacent to the stage is set with tables selling various local artisan products, a wood carver chips away at a log with a mallet and chisel carving out another Hawaiian tiki. Krystal buys a locally pottered dish featuring a turtle design. The youngest three girls have faux tattoos applied to them of various designs and Amanda buys them locally woven bracelets.

The meal is buffet style: Pupu’s of Lomi Salmon, Pipikaula Poke, Cucumber Seaweed Salad, Kula Island Greens, Hawaiian Style Potato Macaroni Salad, Maui Gold Pineapple, Tahitian vanilla dip and Island Poi. 

Main courses of: Kalua Pua’a slow-roasted pork, Huli Huli Chicken, Steamed I’a Fish, Pa’ia Dry Mein Noodles, Moloka’i Sweet Potatoes and Steamed Sticky Rice

Desserts of: Hawaiian Sweet Bread Pudding, Pineapple Upside Down Cake, Chocolate Chantilly Cake and Haupia hawaiian coconut pudding. The kids enjoy there own special menu of spaghetti bolognese, fish fingers, BBQ chicken, hotdogs pizza and a variety salads

After we have stacked our plates and ordered some wine we begin our meal as the show begins with the sun slowly sinking into the ocean in front of us, thankfully eliminating the suns glare.
First up is a very funny Fijian dressed in traditional grass skirt and top. With the help of a member of the audience in an hilarious manner he shows how to break off the husk of a coconut and crack the coconut in away that creates a bowl and lid. He then invites a child from the audience to drink the juice to the last drop that of course dribbles down the child’s chin and eventually all over the stage.

During this event he asks the audience where they are from, we announce that we are from Australia, he proceeds to ask me “what do you call a boomerang that doesn’t come back” I answer a stick, probably spoiling his joke. He mumbles something about we know where the drinkers are then and moves on.

Darkness is descending fast, flaming torches are lit around the stage, we are next treated to a procession of dance and music from the various Polynesian islands. Starting with the gracious story telling hula of Hawaii and culminating in the familiar to us Aussies, “Hakka” performed by the Maoris from our near neighbour New Zealand.

There is a short break while we enjoy dessert, then a build up to the most exciting part and culmination of the show the fire twirling display. Double ended torches are lit, thrown between the dancers and twirled like drum majorettes batons a spectacular fiery display. The dancers move forward and back at times climbing on each other while all the time twirling the fiery double ended torches. They lick the flames with their tongues and balance the torches on the soles of their feet in fearless displays of disregard for the potential skin burning flames. 


All to soon the performance comes to an end, with a little more dancing and fanfares the show concludes. 

We have all enjoyed a wonderful night the kids are buzzing with the excitement of it all, so satisfying.

Before leaving the Westin hotel we all walk under the waterfall that greets guests after they pass through the lobby, the water from the falls drops into a pond where pink flamingoes stand single leggedly beaks tucked into their curved necks probably sleeping. We follow the path under the waterfall then around the pool area before returning to the lobby hailing cabs and returning to our respective hotels.

Matt’s Last Day

Wednesday 19th July
After a big day yesterday time to chill out, we rise late, it’s Matthews last day on Maui, and he wants to do some last minute shopping at the outlet mall in Lahaina. After breakfast we take that now well worn road to browse these shops again, Matt is successful in finding some more extreme bargains but you can only fit so much in your luggage, can’t you.
Back at the hotel, Amanda’s brother Jimmy, wife Susan and daughter have moved in, the first of the clan to gather at our place for drinks this afternoon.

As the afternoon wears on, Amanda’s sister Sandi arrives then Kate and husband Jim arrive and then brother Gary with new partner Tracey. This is such a memorable occasion with Amanda being able to spend so much time with her siblings.
At the end of the afternoon we go our seperate ways for awhile to reconvene at Fleetwood’s restaurant for dinner tonight.
We had such a good night at Fleetwood’s with Matt on his birthday and on our previous visit last year that we had no problems in recommending the venue for dinner tonight. Of course Fleetwood’s has a good reputation as the hip place to dine in Lahaina as well. Not tonight though, they are way off song and out of tune. Usually there is live music but this is cancelled as the band calls in sick. Not really an issue as we had asked for the quietest table in the room so that we could all at least talk to each other. In fact the second floor was extremely quiet with most patrons heading upstairs to the rooftop where we ate with Matt. We had tried to book the rooftop but due to the size of our party were declined. In addition to our group of three, Amanda’s sibs and partners, Sandi’s son and wedding photographer Kaua with very pregnant wife Tania and son Cayman came along with also Susan’s and Jimmy’s Gabrielle. 
All started well with drinks ordered and served quickly, then menus discussed and meals ordered. Some of the party ordered simple salads that came out in a reasonably timely fashion, but then a big wait for main courses (entrees). After several prompts the meals were served close to 10.00pm. Those who ordered meat dishes found them tepid, vegetables accompanying the dishes also tepid apart from the fingerling potatoes that were obviously added last to plates left cooling on a bench somewhere. The worst of the dishes was the most expensive the beef Wellington served with lobster and shrimp was inedible due to the time the dish was left out. Leaving Jimmy and Susan very disappointed. Meanwhile we had consumed more than a little wine, I order a bottle of merlot to accompany the meal and it is served chilled. I send it back, they search for another bottle but it seems they have no wine other than house wine from the bar that is not chilled, weird to say the least. 

Amanda’s brother registers a complaint to the server and we are attended by we presume a person of responsibility, he listens to the complaint and scurries away not returning with a explanation just instructing the staff to discount our bill.

All in all a very disappointing experience to end the day, certainly way below the standards we have come expect of Lahaina restaurants of which there are many and varied. 

We depart later than we wanted to, to go our own seperate ways back to our hotels, some saying good bye for this trip and some for now. Amanda Matt & I return through the night to our hotel and our beds, early rise tomorrow to take Matt to the airport for his flight back to Adelaide.

Wedding Day

Tuesday 18th July
We awake to a perfect Maui day, the clouds have contracted back to their mountain tops. The sea is turquoise blue and the palm trees are once again waving a good morning welcome. The big day for Troy and Heather is here at last and in Aussie terms it’s gong to be a ripper.
Matt and I have some duties to perform, Troy has a mountain of refreshments piled up in his room. They need to be loaded into his car so that he can transport them to the site of the wedding in preparation for the bar staff. 
After breakfast Matt and I drive down to Troy and Heathers hotel in Lahaina where we are joined by Amanda’s brother Jimmy and a stressed looking son in law Peter. He explains that he has had credit card problems, an errant duplicated charge from the hotel has locked up his card and the hotel unhelpful in assisting him in clearing it with his travel agent. Thankfully he has just managed to contact the them directly and all is good in paradise again. We locate Troy who has scratched his head on the side of the swimming pool while swimming in the dark last night. He will need a little make up himself for his big afternoon. Like father like son though hair is not a problem. Loading the car takes us all of five minutes and we are back in the car heading back to Honua Kai. 

We can relax for awhile before changing into our wedding attire. To be ready for pickup and delivery to Olawalu Plantation House, the site of the wedding venue at 1.30pm today. Amanda and I visited the site in May last year on the recommendation of Amanda’s nephew Kuau who is a resident renowned wedding photographer on the island. Situated south of Lahaina in a wooded coastal area the plantation house property is hidden from the road. Once the home of a sugar plantation owner it is now the venue for couples and their wedding party to ready themselves for their big moment in time. The house itself is a simple wooden structure with a large rear covered Verandah that looks out over manicured lawns and gardens to the ocean itself only 50 metres away. From the unpretentious entrance we drove through enormous overhanging monkey pod trees to the car park at the front of the house. Then as we walked around the house the scene opened up, the lawns dotted with palms run down to the beach. To the north a huge Morton bay fig and even bigger Monkey pod tree stretch their angular limbs skywards to provide a canopy of shade, enough for an army of wedding guests. To the south the beach curves around to a man made jetty, this is not a wooden structure as we in Australia would know it but more of a seawall, a break that holds a path out into the ocean, ideal for wedding photographs that provide nothing but the ocean and island views as a backdrop.
Back at the hotel we dress in our finest, Amanda in her Anne Namba number purchased on our arrival to the islands, me in my white trousers, Navy Ted Baker shirt and newly acquired Truffaux Panama hat. Matt as best man looks relaxed in beige pants and white open neck shirt.
At 1.30pm we make our way to the lobby, our taxi is there under the Porte-cochere waiting to whisk us off to Olawalu. Any clouds have scattered to the mountain tops, the day is clear and warm to hot, any breezes having vanished by the time we arrive.
We are greeted by the wedding planner Lori and welcomed to the venue. We park our belongings, I grab my camera as we re-familiarise ourselves with site. Somehow it is more beautiful, the lawns are greener, the gardens immaculate, tropical foliage and flowering plants showing their summer colour. Under the fig and the monkey pod trees the large paved area facing the ocean is set with tables themselves now in the process of decoration by the catering staff. To the left of this the green lawns stretch down to the ocean and here a canopy of white diaphanous material will keep the bride and groom from the sun during the ceremony.


First Troy and then Heather arrive, Heather with her entourage, she is quickly whisked inside so that Troy doesn’t see her before the ceremony as is tradition. Lori runs through the ceremony guiding the bridesmaids, Abbey, Aubrey, Cadence, Calista, and Cindy in their part of the ceremony. Heathers father also given his instructions. The photographer gathers the wedding party for some pre wedding photos. Amanda and I watch on, as the busy scene before us gradually develops into the scene of a wedding. Bridesmaids flit about like colourful butterfly’s eventually retreating to attend their queen as more and more guests arrive.


As the hour approaches the sun is high in the sky sending its scorching rays earthwards, all breezes have stilled, the guests are handed woven heart shaped fans to create their own breezes as we make our way to the seating area, now staged in front of the wedding canopy and facing the ocean. The Hawaiian male celebrant stands to the right of the canopy, dressed in a white shirt and beige trousers but with a traditional blue and white patterned shawl that hangs across one shoulder loosely to the waist. He is holding a creamy white sea shell that once we are seated he holds to his mouth and blows a note skywards signalling the beginning of the ceremony.


In turn the bridesmaids dressed in peach make their way from the house, leading the way is Aubrey, followed by Abbey then Cadence then Calista and finally Cindy. First groomsmen Matthew walks Amanda down the isle and to her seat. Followed by second groomsmen Justin and Heathers mother Bonnie then Troy in a blue suit and white opened neck shirt and his mother. Once again the celebrant raises the conch shell to the sky and blows three notes signalling Heather to begin her journey towards the canopy, escorted by her father. Heather looking beautiful is dressed in a flowing white gown with a high bodice and white lace top covering her shoulders. Plumeria flowers adorn her blond hair, a white plumeria shaped pendant necklace at her breast. The amplified strains of an Hawaiian 12 string guitar with the traditional Bridal Processional Song Maunaleo sang beautifully by Jamie (Lori’s husband) fill the surrounding air. 
The celebrant begins the wedding ceremony, the most beautiful and fun filled ceremony I have ever witnessed. Starting with lei giving Troy and Heather each place the floral leis around each other’s neck, then each in turn, Stan, Bonnie (Heathers parents) Amanda, I and Troys mother receive the gift of a lei from our children Troy & Heather. 
The kids say their vows and exchange rings underneath the white canopy that shades them from the sun but the heat of the day evaporates as we bear witness to their love for one another. A tear comes to my eye the love and happiness palpable.

We are soon on our feet congratulating them as they are pronounced man and wife and once again traverse the isle they trod as singles just thirty minutes ago as a married couple. Friends and family gather round to congratulate the jubilant pair lining up for photos as more are taken of the couple and their guests.


The bar opens and the party begins as the sun starts its way towards the western horizon. The recently quiet breezes pickup cooling us down as the servers circulate with finger food appetisers of coconut shrimp, samosas, sliders and mini toasted sandwiches. Meanwhile the couple are off having more photo moments the photographer having a field day against what must be one of the most beautiful backdrops on the planet. 
We are seated for dinner service just before sunset. The sky is briefly lit with orange and pink as finally the sun disappears into the ocean, the now gentle breezes are a welcome relief to the daytime heat. White moon shaped lanterns come alight, darkness descends, speeches are made by a very emotional me, Cindy (Heathers sister) and Stan her father. Then each of the members of the bridal party are formerly introduced to the guests.
More photos are taken as the wedding cake is cut, a small white iced chocolate cake sitting above circular trays of chocolate cupcakes.
The music begins. the married couple take their first dance under the monkey pod tree, and the party starts in earnest. Guests flock to the dance floor, as the night goes on more and more young and old loose their inhibitions in their dancing. From the youngest ten year old to the oldest 79 year old all the guests enjoy the music and fun. 

Eventually all things must pass and the music stops, the lights go out and we return to our beds holding a most memorable night of fun love and laughter in our hearts for ever.

The Day Before the Big Day

Monday 17th July
Just one day now until the big day, the final guests arrive today. The day is a little cooler white caps appear on the deep blue ocean, the ever present cloud on the islands has increased over night. Evaporated moisture from the ocean is drawn upwards, forms new wispy clouds that coalesce with their mountain top parents as if gathering to await a greater cause. 
Amanda and sister Sandi are day spa-ring this morning, the Marilyn Monroe studio of beautification awaits. After breakfast they meet to go off to this mysterious place of wonders, where diligent young ladies fuss around, painting nails or toes, plucking eyebrows, waxing faces and other places while they giggle at the resulting tickle, making sure that any grimace is of course surreptitious.
Matt and I take off to refuel the Hyundai, the fuel economy astounding as we have driven most of the nine days since we landed with trips to Kahului and Haleakala national park. We miss our turn off to Whalers Village to complete some last minute shopping and end up in Lahaina then circle around again heading north finding a service station before circling back again this time finding Whalers Village. Refuelling is an adventure in its self, we both stand in front of the bowser like Gutenberg looking at a Kindle. The machine has only one dispensing nozzle, you lift then select your choice of fuel by pressing a large button, either unleaded 87 Octane, Premium 89 Octane or Extra premium Nitro off the scale octane. We go through this relatively simple process, the LCD display tells us to lift the nozzle to fill and pay inside the store or insert your credit card into the slot and lift the nozzle. Since we are used to paying inside we take that option but are met with a non compliant machine. Matt goes inside the store anyway to ask for help, turns out we can only use a credit card. I insert the credit card and as the vehicle fills with fuel the machine slowly sucks the money out of your bank account, when your tank is full your account is empty. Fuel here is comparable with home costing around US$3.44 a gallon or 3.8 litres at the current exchange rate that’s around AUS$1.25 litre.
We travel onto Whalers Village and complete our shopping tasks, arriving back at Honua Kai just little after the newly refreshed Amanda. Brother Jimmy and family arrive shortly after with a bottle of wine in hand. We are soon chilling out on the patio enjoying a glass of wine or beer. The gathering clouds, disturbed by the increased winds sent the occasional sprinkle down on us while we were on the road this morning. Now those clouds are stretching darker fingers down towards the ocean sending with them almost horizontal rain that comes in showers through the canyon created by our building and an adjacent one down to the ocean itself. The raindrops completing their eternal cycle from ocean to sky and back again. The rain drives us in, then out again as the sun comes out creating rainbows against the hills behind us. Then in again as heavier showers persist until they have returned their fill of water to the sea and the sun once again dominates the sky.
Troy is having a pre dinner happy hour, boys only session at Fleetwood’s tonight, Susan wants us to checkout the vodka oyster shooters while we are there. Jimmy, Matt & me take an Uber cab to Lahaina arriving before anyone else. The shooters turn out to be just plain natural oysters in the shell no vodka in sight. Jimmy playful as ever asks the waitress for a shot glass, we order some oysters, put one in the shot glass fill with water and a little spicy sauce with wedge of lemon. I take a picture of the resultant product, then of Jimmy downing one that we immediately send to Susan. We will try to keep the joke going until she tries to order the same before Wednesday nights group dinner. More of the male guests and members of the wedding party arrive and we enjoy a drink before taking our leave for dinner.
Tonight the Palmer-Page-Callaghan-Woessner group dine at Honu Seafood and Pizza restaurant (The word Honu meaning green sea turtle).This restaurant is situated next door to and is a sister restaurant to Frida’s Mexican restaurant scene of last night dinner. The buildings bones are identical to Frida’s internally but externally clad in yellow corrugated iron. The decor a much brighter white with blue accessories the walls covered with colourful fishy paintings and prints of sea creatures. Instead of ironwork chandeliers hang white lanterns the theme mirrored by the lantern like lights on the fans that draw in the ocean breezes that waft in from the row of open windows facing the ocean. Not such a spectacular display by the sun god tonight proving that even he can have an off day.


Again Hawaiian fish is forefront on the menu, I chose the Fresh Fish Dore Style Monchong or Sickle Pomfret, locally caught on hand lines from deep water reels at around 900 feet and averaging 12Lbs (5.4kg) it’s served on a bed of Capers, lemon, butter, dill pollen with turkish quinoa. So far the best tasting and freshest dish I have had this trip. Amanda chooses the Bikini Blonde (A Maui brewery beer) Battered Fish and Chips, Coleslaw,​ tartar sauce and‏ Korean aioli. This is also a favourite of many of the other diners. They are served a large basket of Ono (other wise known as Wahoo) fish and Chips. The Wahoo is a highly prized game fish built like a torpedo, very fast in the water and delicious when caught at around 30Lbs (13.5kg) it’s a challenge to land. Amanda as were the other diners were all very happy with their choice although the portion size was a challenge for some.
Once again night falls and the sea view fades to an inky blackness, out on the street the stars shine brightly heralding the promise of a clear sunny day for the wedding tomorrow.

Meet & Greet

Sunday 16th July 
There was a slight cool change overnight the breezes off the ocean picked up perceptibly lowering the temperature just a degree or two. Again a lazy warm Hawaiian day lays ahead. The clans are gathering for the big day on Tuesday all but a very few guests have arrived. There is to be a meet and greet this afternoon, members of our family, Amanda’s family and Heathers family will meet up at the Outrigger hotel in Lahaina so that everyone can get to know each other. Kylie, Peter, Krystal & Tyson have never met the American side of Amanda’s family. Many years have passed since Troy and Matthew have seen Amanda’s side of the family as well. Then off course very few of any of the family members have met Heather and her parents and sister. 
I manage to watch the first half of my home Australian Rule Football teams game for the weekend before Jimmy, Susan, Gaby and Kate join us for a picnic style lunch on our balcony. The panoramic view from the dry hills behind us to the ocean also provides a cooling breeze as we enjoy our lunch.

The ocean and sand calls to Jimmy and Susan they take off to the beach leaving a tired Gaby to do some couch surfing. As with most teenagers holidays means sleeping in, their body clocks only clicking in as the evenings draw near.
Matt and I watch the last half of our football game, the Adelaide Crows once again in good form defeating the Melbourne Demons in the winter warmth of the Darwin night air. Where the only moisture problem was from sweaty hands that made the ball handling a slippery task.
The sun and sand seekers return to collect their sleepy child leaving us to prepare for the evening ahead.
Along with Kate and Jim, we take a taxi to Lahaina and the Outrigger where Troy & Heather have planned the meet and greet. We arrive, the party has already started. Troy and Heather have set up a bar in the hotels grounds, commandeering part of a large thatched roof open air pavilion There are greetings of Aloha all round to those that we have not seen for a few weeks, months or even years and introductions to those we have not met and to those who have not met Kate & Jim. Then we mingle and mix with the crowd as gradually more of the guests arrive, with more and more Aloha’s.

The meet and greet sees many a glass of sparkling wine, a beer or two and the odd Makers Mark consumed, by 7.00pm the group splits up. The Palmer-Pushman-Fagan group along with the Stunnel’s head to Front street to Lahaina Pizza Company, while the Palmer-Callaghan-Davis group take a taxi to Frida’s Mexican Beach House Restaurant also on Front Street but the Northern end. Frida’s is a relatively new restaurant in town, the building once held Lahaina’s bait and tackle shop. Now the timber framed and clad building painted in pink, with white balustrades serves to offer the local catch as well as meat, chicken and vegetable dishes in a truly Mexican style. Once inside we are shown to our table beneath painted white high raked ceilings from which dangle great iron chandeliers of rusted circular steel that form ball shaped cages encasing the light globes. A row of modern timber shaped fans with vertical blades entice the ocean breezes to come inside and circulate them around. The ceilings flow down to a row of horizontally folding corrugated iron clad windows that now raised give a stunning view of the ocean just meters away. We settle in, our two bottles of pre purchased wine unscrewed by our own hand at a cost of $25.00 a bottle. 

As the sun goes down we are treated to the most spectacular of sunsets, thick dark clouds cover the top of Molokai spreading out over the ocean, a darkening pale blue wash behind them. The sun god has then painted the sky with huge strokes of orange that fade to pink behind and beyond the island creating the most dramatic of scenes. In the foreground the pinkish light reflects off a darkening ocean as various sea craft gently sway to and fro.


 Amanda and I order a two taco plate each, Amanda the beef and me the Hawaiian grilled fish (I am just loving the fish here). Both dishes served with Mexican Green Rice! A cilantro rice pilaf cooked in chicken stock with poblano chiles, parsley, cilantro, onion, and garlic. Also called Arroz verde, plus refried beans. The meals are tasty and certainly not lacking in size. Kate’s Jim sitting opposite me is served an enormous vegetarian burrito that a clean plate soon testified was delicious.
Again the stories continue from the previous night the three siblings now joined by another in Sandi to add more flavour and perspective. 
Finally only the lights of the sea crafts masts are visible and it is time to make our way home once again, to recharge ready for another beautiful Hawaiian day.

Sibling Reunion

Saturday July 15th
Matt & I are a sorry sight this morning, red like freshly cooked lobsters. After breakfast we drive to the nearest store to top up on a few items but essentially to find the most soothing after sun moisturiser we can. Unfortunately not too much on offer, surprising on an island of anxious sun loving tourists that a good percentage of must over indulge. 
We are back from our shopping trip in time for Amanda’s brother Jimmy, his wife Susan and daughter Gabriella’s arrival at Honua Kai. They flew in from San Diego this morning and after checking in at their hotel in Lahaina came straight up to us in Kaanapali to have lunch with his estranged sisters.
When they arrive we go straight to Dukes, beachfront restaurant the vibe is electric, Jimmy and Kate haven’t seen each other for some seven years and the same amount of time has passed since all three were together. 

Jimmy has one goal, although it takes second place to eating lunch and consuming some wine, that is too roll around in the hot Hawaiian sand and then wash it all off in the crystal clear waters off Kaanapali bay. Lunch over Jimmy does exactly that, Gaby tags along and Susan & Kate take photos of the event, all very funny and playful.

 Meanwhile we return to our room, not wishing to subject ourselves to more of the suns wrath. Eventually the bathers and sand rollers re convene in our room. We set a dinner date for Lahaina this evening, after some interesting political discussions on the state of USA today, our guests depart to freshen up for our dinner date at Longhi’s on Front street, back in Lahaina.


As the sun once again starts its descent on another beautiful Maui day we make our way back to Lahaina via taxi cab with Jim, Kate & Matt. A Maui landmark since 1976 Longhi’s in Lahaina offers spectacular ocean views, great sunsets and mediterranean inspired cuisine. Fresh Hawaiian fish, live Maine lobster, Prime streaks, pizza and pasta. Best of all though it offered a chance for three siblings to come together and enjoy each other’s company, the evening was full of fun and the telling of many childhood tales that brought tears of laughter to those who remembered the times and those of us that were hearing them for the first time. A great night out and one we will remember for a long time to come.

Eventually the night must end, we say our goodbyes, our taxi cab arrives and we are whisked back to our beds at Honua Kai.

Sailing to Lanai

Friday July 14th 
Up early this morning for our sailing/snorkelling trip to Lanai. After a hurried breakfast we drive the now very familiar few miles to Lahaina the cloud cover on the mountains to our left is at a higher level this morning the dry coastal air pushing at their bottoms. To our right the islands of Molokai and Lanai sit in sparkling blue waters with the clouds covering their tops in a similar situation.
We arrive in Lahaina and find a public parking area behind Front St., just a short walk through a shopping mall across Front St., and we are there at the wharf where the Sail Maui catamaran is moored. Troy, Heather and all the kids are here, now with Heathers sister Cindy who arrived from New Jersey yesterday.
We are greeted by the captain Ray, dressed in a large brimmed woven hat, Surfers shorts and top, he’s two crew mates Steve and a female sailor are busying themselves preparing breakfast fruits and making sure all is ready for our departure. We go through a boarding procedure, signing ourselves in then giving up our shoes to Steve who puts them in a communal bag, then onto the boat to stow our belongings in the cabin where the breakfast is laid out and find a seat on the cats deck, or forward trampoline. This catamaran is a small one taking no more than 30 people, our group making up eleven is the largest. Once aboard the captain goes through a few safety instructions, the mooring ropes are released and we motor out of the harbour to start our crossing of the Auau channel bound for Manele Bay and the Lanai Harbour of the same name. 


Out in the channel there is no breeze, we lather up with lots of free onboard sunscreen, the ocean is a deep indigo, lazy small glassy waves surround us making it a smooth passage. The sun is relentless quickly burning off any clouds that dare to cross its face, leaving only clear blue.
Abbey, Cadence, Aubrey and Calista take up positions on the forward trampoline stretching out to catch up on some sleep the early start has cheated them of. The rest of us lounge on the small deck watching the ocean for any activity. Flying fish run before us, shooting out from the bow in all directions skipping and skimming the low waves like thrown stones. The fish are small, reminding me of small birds like swallows as they dip and dive, only eventually to disappear into the ocean rather than the sky. Lanai gradually grows bigger before us a dry and barren looking island sparsely vegetated. The trip takes about two hours of chugging along in the breathless air under a scorching sun. 

Ahead we see another boat surrounded by a large pod of spinner dolphins, the ocean boiling with slapping tail fins their grey sleek arching bodies breaching the surface in shallow dives as they circle the boat. As we approach the other boat departs leaving the pod to welcome us as we slow into their midst. Everyone rushes forward for the picture op, the children all excited to see so many dolphins in the wild. The pod playfully dip and dive around us giving everyone a great experience. 
The pod departs and we chug on along the black Lanai cliffs moving ever closer towards the Manele Harbour. We arrive, and make for Manele Bay just outside the harbour entrance, the water is crystal clear about 12 feet deep you can see the coral outcrops with the occasional flash of yellow as a Yellow Tang tropical fish darts out from under a coral outcrop. The crew have previously prepared us with flippers and snorkelling gear, we strip off our outer wear re apply some sunscreen and line up either to jump off the leeward side prow or to take the stairs that the crew have unfolded at the central portion of the trampoline. 

I decide to go for the grand entrance, jumping off the prow, holding my snorkel & mask so the impact doesn’t jerk it free I take the plunge. I am suddenly immersed in the warm tropical waters of Manele Bay, no cold water shock here, the water temperature matches the air. I swim around to the front of the boat by now all of the party except Amanda is in the water, she is not snorkelling today. The kids are all off exploring the reef like they belonged in this environment. Heathers sister Cindy the only one looking a little out of her comfort zone, this being her first snorkelling experience. Nevertheless she is bobbing around on a noodle enjoying a warm seawater bath. I snorkel on, exploring the coral and looking out for reef fish. Some school at certain types of coral diving in and out to suck up some indeterminable food source. Convict Tang and Yellowstripe Goat fish in the main. Other species float on their lonesome in and out of the coral, Parrot and Butterfly fish I can easily identify but many others abound. Matthew is excited ticking off a bucket list item, he finds a sea turtle to swim with, a bigger brother to the little long necked freshwater turtle he has in a tank at home.


The hour of free snorkelling goes by quickly and we return to the boat to dry off and prepare to enter the harbour. 

Once in the Harbour the crew hand out our pre packed picnic of sandwiches, salads and cookies, we disembark to make the ten minute walk to Hulopoe beach. On the last two trips we have made to Lanai we snorkelled at this beach rather than the bay, the bay was far better in my opinion.
Hulopoe beach is a crescent shaped bay surrounded by parklands dotted with picnic tables, we choose one just a short distance from the beach. The hungry crew of snorkelers devour the meal in double quick time wanting to head for the beach, temptingly just over the sand dunes in front of us. Having had enough of the sun, I lay out my towel on the sparse grass underneath two palm trees, very careful to position myself away from any coconuts that might just decide to head earthbound. Here I watch the breeze swirl around the trees tops and quietly fall asleep.

Eventually I am awakened by Amanda, it’s time to walk back to the boat for our return journey. The beachgoers have returned in awe of yet another beautiful Hawaiian sandy beach so we gather our belongings and stroll back down the road towards Manele Harbour.
Once we are back on board we take up our seating positions the kids once again opting for the forward trampoline despite warnings that the seas maybe a little heavier on our return. We expect to sail a good way of the distance back to Lahaina but the wind is not cooperating, the crew unfurl the sails, we toss around on the glassy waves for awhile with only the occasional flap of the sails indicating any wind at all. Unfortunately, the crew eventually give up and we motor back across the strait, there is nothing quite like sailing through the ocean with just the sound of the wind in the sails. The deep indigo blue glassy waves become larger and deeper as we near the centre of the channel. 

Then suddenly there are shrieks of dismay from the kids as a we bounce into a trough, seawater squirting up through the porous trampoline drenching them.

We continue on our way with a drenching becoming a reoccurring event, two middle aged ladies sit soaking up mimosas (champagne and fruit juice) on one of the front pontoons receiving a regular soaking but it doesn’t seem to dampen their enthusiasm for more mimosas, as they keep calling for more from the crew who seem more than willing to keep them hydrated.
Meanwhile the sun beats down relentlessly, boring through any sun protection, I cover myself with a towel, Amanda has long since found shade inside the cabin and behind the sails when they were hoisted. We can feel the sun though frying our skin as we finely make Lanai Harbour. 

Amanda, Matt and I head back to Honua Kai to refresh ourselves for dinner tonight. Troy has booked us into the Lahaina Pizza Co. for a kid friendly dinner tonight. It will be wonderful to share a meal with them all.
We return to Lahaina and dinner, we are all sunburnt and hungry. The pizzas are deep pan style, tasty and filling. After dinner we walk Front street to locate an ice creamy, that serves both ice cream and the in vogue again shaved ice, back bigger and better than at anytime in the past. Successful we eat our desserts on foot as we make our way back to our car and Troy, Heather & gang back to their hotel.

Tomorrow Amanda’s brother Jimmy, wife Susan and daughter Gabriela arrive sure to be a fun family day.