As warm tropical days and nights continue we are feeling privileged to be a guest of Kate’s in this beautiful part of the world. It is summer here but the holiday is over for local children as they go back to school or prepare for another college year. Tourists continue to pour in from the US mainland and all over the world to take advantage of the endless summer weather. During the day colourful yachts ply the waters off shore, while surfers ride the infinite waves that roll in like the ticking of a perpetual clock. Para gliders sail across the blue sky hanging from their multi-coloured silk chutes. While at night sunset dinner cruises take over the waters, glittering from bow to stern with illuminations whose reflections sparkle off the darkening waters. All adding to the revenue of this tourist driven state. Every Friday night starts the weekend off when the Rainbow Hilton, so called because of the rainbow design painted on the buildings side, puts on a spectacular fireworks display. While the locals lock up their dogs and shut their double glazed windows tight the tourists flock to the beach parks of Waikiki and Ala Moana to witness the event, or if you are very lucky you can watch from sister in law Kate’s apartment. These beach parks are sacred ground, public spaces, that cannot be privatised. There are almost nightly events, BBQ’s, family party’s, music of all kinds, gatherings large and small resulting in a city in a permanent state of holiday euphoria.
Meanwhile the ongoing saga with Kate’s aging Dodge Dart continues. The dealers service department after many phone enquiries from Kate calls her to let her know the car is at last available to be picked up, transmission problems all fixed, inspection carried out and good to go. The repair has taken about 10-12 days to be completed, with parts needing to be flown over from the mainland. The dealership is within walking distance, but Kate has to rush over to pick the good to go vehicle up, as there is a time limit to do so after which the dealer will charge $100 a day for the vehicle to be on their lot. Kate wants to have the car cleaned as well, apparently the dealer service/repair doesn’t include a complimentary clean. We have arranged to meet for dinner at Tango this evening a restaurant located at the base of the building. After picking up the car the hour is late and the car wash closed, so Kate drives home in the dusty vehicle that has sat outside for the duration of the repair period, the drive is less than a mile in total. At dinner I ask Kate how the drive home went and if she felt the car performed as normal, she tells us that she felt that the brake pedal felt soft and that she had to push it to the floor in order to slow or stop the car. In addition when arriving home and parking the car a great deal of water dripped onto the car park floor, water that that Kate thought may have come from the aircon unit. Putting two and two together I suggested that the yellowish water could be brake fluid. We decide she should take a photo of the fluid and yes it is brake fluid. Now the car is again a non-drivable brick . Next morning the dealer is reluctant to collect the vehicle but eventually offers up a towing service that had less than satisfactory reviews. Taking matters into her own hands she calls her triple A road assistance service. Triple A had towed the car from the Pali only a couple of weeks prior and here they are again trying to tow the car again, this time from the Hokua apartment buildings undercover garage a couple of stories up. The tow truck is too high to enter the parking garage so the truck driver manoeuvres the car down the ramp using the emergency brake on the downward spiralling ramp. The car finally secured begins its journey towards the dealership by early afternoon. Kate is understandably not happy as the saga continues, the dealership reports that a brake line has split, and that the others could fail at any minute, due the dealer says to the age of the vehicle. After 13 years of annual services and safety checks the dealership should know the care inside out. For safety sake the service department recommends replacing all of the brake lines. The vehicle has spent more time at the dealership in the past 5 months than in the parking garage, each time repairs are carried out, deposits paid, vehicle safely inspections are undergone, but none have shown critical wear on a very important life saving function of the car, the ability to stop! Those brake lines do not age 13 years over night, don’t you know! The Dart is now back at the dealership awaiting repairs, life goes on even in paradise, the aloha spirit not extended to vehicles, the Cutter Dodge(y) dealership asleep at the wheel.
Shopping at Ala Moana continues with forays into the mall whenever we have the opportunity. Considering the exchange rate is not in our favour there are still bargains to be found, if you know what to look for. With the added bonus of more choice and a bigger range of products than we see in Australia. Online shopping hasn’t yet killed off this mall. One of the attractions or distractions are the collection of artworks dotted around the centre as well as the koi ponds to be found in various locations. Although many have now gone after renovations over the last 8 years. The Sculptural pieces are to be found in various courtyards as you wander around with painted murals adorning the sides of overhead walkways.
Earlier this week we discovered that Cirque du Soleil has established a residency in Waikiki. Amanda and I are long time fans, attending their performances whenever the troupe are in Adelaide. Experiencing one of their shows overseas is an extra special delight. Even more so now that the troupe are here performing a uniquely Hawaiian show based on the islands people, their culture and traditions. The show is named Auana (translating to wander, drift or move from place to place) a bit like Amanda and me at the moment. Performances playing for the foreseeable future at the Outrigger Beachcomber Hotel’s small theatre. We book tickets for Kate, Amanda and me for an early evening show this Friday. Cirque du Soleil’s own description has us anticipating an exciting event.
“Step into a world where reality bends and the spirit of Hawai‘i comes alive—welcome to ‘Auana, an enchanting journey brought to life by Cirque du Soleil. This spectacular show celebrates the essence of the islands through breathtaking artistry and awe-inspiring athleticism. Prepare to be captivated as a diverse ensemble of international and local talents delivers an exhilarating blend of acrobatics, laughter, mesmerizing hula, and soul-stirring music.
The compelling narrative of ‘Auana unfolds across eight chapters, inspired by the mo‘olelo (stories) of Hawai‘i. From the Polynesian migration, to the “golden age of tourism”, each act honors a deep connection to the ʻāina (land), celebrating Hawai‘i’s rich heritage and cultural traditions”.
Shopping has some advantages, meeting some interesting people just one of them. Our accents giveaway the fact we are not locals, even Amanda’s accent seems to be fading when compared to the average American resident or tourist. Just across the road is Nordstrom Rack one of the US’s biggest department store’s outlet branch, where last year’s fashions and discounted lines are sold off at bargain prices. On checking out we are asked where we are from. In answer to our reply we are told that there is a a colony of Southeastern Australian rock wallaby’s here on Oahu. Apparently quite a few survive up in the Kalihi Valley, just north of the city of Honolulu. Imported in 1916 for a zoo, that failed to eventuate the three immigrants escaped into the hills. One falling victim to a wild dog, the other two survived to breed, producing the colony still in existence today. We are all the more wiser for learning this little known fact, with an Aussie connection. Unlike many other of imported species they don’t yet seem to have over run the island.
It is Friday. Today’s weather forecast is for a sunny warm day with occasional scudding clouds, light breezes, and moderate humidity. Same as yesterday and the day before that, and the day before that. Like looking in a mirror with a mirror behind you, seeing your reflection appearing to go on and on into infinity. Being an Hawaiian meteorologist would be a great job, plenty of time to go surfing. There is a full moon tonight or as the Hawaiians say a “Hoku” moon. The sun and Earth conveniently aligning with this moon to create increased gravitational pull that will in turn produce king tides along Oahu’s shores. As a result bringing 10-14 foot waves to the beaches of Waikiki and Ala Moana, a rarity on this side of the island. Our elevated position allows us an excellent view of the rising ocean at nearby Ala Moana Beach park each evening. Today we are able to have a closer look as we are having lunch in Waikiki right on the ocean. Being the guest of a local also has its benefits as Kate scores a table ocean side at the Monkey Pod Kitchen restaurant, a branch of the Merriman chain. A trendy local name, after a local tree that has a large spreading canopy that produces oversized curved seed pods the length of a monkeys arms. After lunch its on to the Cirque du Soleil show.
Ubering around Honolulu has proved the best way for point to point travel, there are pricing options depending on the level of space or luxury you want. Most uber drivers have Tesla model Y’s that are comfortable, quiet and smooth if a little different. Our Uber arrives on time, the drive into Waikiki takes about 15-20 minutes for US$25 or Aus$38 probably not far off a typical ride in Adelaide. The Monkey Pod Kitchen is situated in the Outrigger Reef Hotel right on the oceanfront. With the seas up, waves are crashing into the sea wall that forms the seaside perimeter of the hotel. After taking some photos of the iconic Diamond Head crater rising from the turquoise waters of Waikiki bay we are shown to an oceanfront table in a sheltered corner. Most tables have transparent blinds on the open side, we soon see why those most desired tables are doused with ocean spray as a set of big waves rolls in. Those blinds prevent 90% of the spray but at times the salty water finds its way around the screens. Our table is reasonably safe but an adjacent one with no screen is repeatedly taking a shower. The food is exceptionally good, the variations on the relaxed theme of fish, salads and burgers have that little extra class about them. The sauces and dressings making all the difference to normally ordinary fare. We have front row seats to all the activity, surfers heading out to catch the larger than normal waves, a schooner sits out in the ocean beyond the waves while closer in a seal bobs up and down, appearing and disappearing from sight. We name the Hawaiian seal Bob, trying to track his movements and guess where he will “Bob” up next.
Time up, we move on by foot along Waikiki’s main thoroughfare, Kalakaua Avenue to the Outrigger Beachcomber. This hotel has a small theatre, 724 seats ensuring patrons all have a good view of the stage. Ours are centrally located and just a few rows back from the stage. As we take our seats a lone acoustic guitarist sits on the stage picking out a calming tune. As the lights go down, a man appears looking like a typical tourist, he mimes a demand for the artist to sign his program. The artist switches to a bamboo flute like woodwind instrument the haunting sound lulling the tourist into a dreaming sleep. Where he is taken on a journey through eight stages of Hawaii’s development. The acrobats take us through feats of balance, strength and agility, their bodies trained to perform fluid movements, that at our age we can barely remember. Individual performances both on stage and above take us through the uniquely Hawaiian story from ancient beginnings to day, with the tourist providing hilarious interludes. Altogether eighty minutes of non stop entertainment with ooh’s and aah’s and bucket loads of laughter, not to mention the amazement at the superior skill of these artists. We left with the feeling that we had experienced an entertaining, funny and unique show.
At the Ala Moana Shopping centre the next day we pass by the Tesla showroom. On display is the Tesla Bot, a humanoid robot under development by Elan Musk. Generation 3 has just recently come into existence, apparently the Bot will start to go on sale in November this year. Did I blink and miss something! Robots could be mowing the lawn, picking up the groceries or looking after the kids very, very soon. At US$30,000 I dare say there will be quite a few takers wanting to be on the cutting edge of this technology. The robot will be known as Optimus and will have advanced AI and learning capabilities. Connected to the internet it will be able to learn any tasks from a video or explicit instructions. The bot will then be able to share this information with other bots. With advanced dexterity it can crack an egg or thread a needle, maybe darn your socks just like grandma used to do. Or even play the piano. It seems that just a few years ago these machines couldn’t even stand up, now they can walk, talk, climb stairs or be let loose in uneven garden terrain. The Tesla model will immediately be able to sweep, vacuum, cook, clean the toilets, water the plants, serve a drink and bring in your Amazon parcels. The potential is enormous. Just like those robot dust collectors it will return to its station for charging its 8-10 hour battery. The future is on our doorstep.
Thinking about the future, science fiction and Marvel comics, the latter more back to the future than futuristic from today’s standpoint we took time out to go to the movies. An event we looked forward to participating in with Jim, Kate’s late husband, on our frequent visits here. As a tribute to Jim we wanted to continue the tradition, hoping he would be looking down with approval. This season the selection is a little thin with just a couple of movies released in this vein. A new Superman release is one option and the Fantastic Four another. We choose the Fantastic Four, widely considered to be at the forefront of the Marvel comic books started in 1961, when we are just eleven.
The Fantastic Four’s origin revolves around four friends who embarked on an experimental, unauthorised space mission. The team’s vessel, the Marvel-1, suffered bombardment by cosmic rays during their flight. Though the ship’s shielding failed, the four survived the crash back to Earth, where they discovered they had newfound powers. Together they decided to use these abilities to benefit humanity, forming the Fantastic Four. Their comic book debut saw them face off against the Mole Man and his army of monsters. Dr. Reed Richard’s or Mr Fantastic gained the ability to stretch his body into all sorts of contortions. Susan “Sue” Storm Richards found she could become invisible and create powerful force fields. Johnny Storm gained the ability to become a human torch and to fly, while Ben Grim’s body is permanently transformed into rock, giving him superhuman strength and durability. The movie is more akin to the comic books I remember from that era, the future just as we imagined it would be. With flying cars, robots and giant TV screens that looked just like our little TV set that sat in a corner on its four skinny legs, all those years ago. In a time when we imagined that any threat to the world would come from without and that the people of earth would come together to save the species. How wrong we were.
It’s Sunday, we arise late after watching the Adelaide Crows nearly succumb to defeat by the Perth Eagles. Fortunately they survive but a close call that must have sent shock waves through the coaching team.
Since our last visit, the giant Howard Hughes. corporation has built a concrete walking bridge over Ala Moana Boulevard just west of us. The walkway takes out the need to cross that very busy six lane highway.
The history of Ward Corporation’s (now Ward Village, under The Howard Hughes Corporation) land ownership in Honolulu is a rich and lengthy one, stretching back to the late 19th century. Starting with Curtis and Victoria Ward who farmed the area on their 100 acre property in Kaka’ako in 1870’s and 80’s. After Curtis Ward died Victoria managed the estate, forming her own company in 1930. She continued to grow her family’s real estate assets. A portion of the land changed hands when the city purchased it, but the Victoria Ward company continued to develop the remaining land. Opening Ward Centre and Ward Warehouse. In 2002 General Growth corporation purchased these properties and surrounding land for US$250m but went into bankruptcy in 2010. The Howard Hughes corporation then purchased the property. Howard Hughes has since rebranded the area as Ward Village, transforming it into a master-planned community with high rise residences, retail, and entertainment spaces. All this is still ongoing with new high rise apartments built or in the process of being built. The entire area now undergoing a transformation that will provide a unique high rise village atmosphere housing thousands of people along the southern coastline. The development is happening on a large scale incorporating amazing architecture amongst modern facilities and plenty of green space. The developments include a degree of “affordable housing” but it is hard to see how that will be possible, (define affordable please?) given the surrounding property values in this area.
This morning we take a walk along Ala Moana Boulevard heading west towards the Marina known as Kewalo Basin Harbor. This stretch of road that houses the old Ward Centre will soon be further developed. Once a vibrant shopping area most of the shop owners have vacated as leases are not renewed ahead of this massive renewal project. The bridge opened in May spans the six lane highway giving easy access to the Harbor and Ala Moana beach park. Once we veer off to take the ramp that leads to the bridge we are entering the newly created 1.4 acre Victoria Ward Park Makai, the latter word meaning seaward. A lush tropical green space with a pond and sculptures by local artists. A feature of the park is the use of native plants to reduce irrigation and mitigate urban heat effects. The park will eventually be extended to cover a total of 3.5 acres connecting nearby apartment complexes currently under construction just north of the bridge.
A fluttering nearby catches my eye as a large perfectly formed orange and black Monarch butterfly hovers around a nearby flowering bush. Eventually settling for nectar from the bright red and yellow blooms.
A large sculpture named Wayfinding by local artist Linda Fleming stands near the entrance calling to mind ocean currents and celestial navigation. The visual effect created by shifting light and shadows creates a dynamic focal point in the park. A landmark reflecting the spirit of exploration that shaped Hawai’i’s past. The park also pays tribute to native birdlife with sculptures of seven Hawaiian Stilts that used to inhabit this coastal area but now sadly are in rapid decline.
Just over the pedestrian bridge we are in Kewalo Harbor where all manor of craft take fun loving tourists out for some time on the ocean. Whatever your ocean going preference, sailing, fishing, para sailing, reef viewing in a glass bottom boat, snorkeling, skin diving your imagination can be satisfied here. Boats of all shapes and sizes are moored ready for action. Even one with a corkscrew slippery slide that delivers you with a splash from up high above into the clear turquoise waters below. From here we can see the entrance to the Harbor where yesterday a rather large boat lost control, literally surfing to a stop. The 3 meter waves created by the king tide carrying the vessel forward to end up stuck on the beach dangerously close to the Seawall.
Now on the Oceanside we walk back east passing the Harbor and into Ala Moana Beach Park. A 100 acre park that stretches 800 meters along the coast. The beach is popular with locals and tourists as the water here is protected by a shallow reef off shore. Even the larger than usual waves of today break against the coral reef leaving the protected water calm enough for standing paddle boarders.
Continuing our walk into the park towards the ocean the area is full of activity as visitors look for available car parks. Most are full, it is a Sunday after all. As we move further into the park their is evidence of approaching weddings as a bride receives a touch up to her pre photo makeup. Smoke billows out from under colourful shelters as compact charcoal grill bbq’s are lit in preparations for the days picnics. Under brightly decorated awnings we can see several teenage birthday party’s are preparing to have some fun with music emanating from speakers that would fill a concert hall with sound. A group of ten or more Asian looking percussion musicians are seated in a circle on the grass with their instruments before them under the spreading canopy of a long limbed tree. A Sunday morning get-together of like minded people or a band having a practice session, we will never know. Other groups of indeterminate purpose that we can only guess at have gathered here as well to take advantage of the large umbrella shaped shady trees. It is indeed a warm sunny morning with the early clouds that shaded us in our walk thus far, now gone. While the park has mostly broad canopied trees like Banyan and Monkey Pod there are other varieties. A particularly beautiful one is a cross between the pink and golden shower tree varieties, Cassia x nealiae, known locally as the rainbow shower tree.
There are also Persian Silk trees with their striking pink and white fan like blossom. An invasive species but shady and attractive all the same.
There are not many birds to be found around Ala Moana, no doubt bird fanciers would beg to differ. We did see a few white terns soaring over the water, invasive Indian myna birds, sparrow like finches on the lawns picking up food scraps from the barbecuing crowd. Also groups of little turtle doves, smaller than those at home. No gulls, a surprise to me as they are ever present on the Australian coast, and most other coasts we have visited. We did see a group of small finches looking for grass seeds, very similar in size and colour to our red cap or fire tail finches. Although these had a red brow and horizontal stripes on their back wings and body.
We continue our walk following the bay out on the peninsula to the point known as magic island. In reality not an island, but at one time named for a proposed resort that never came to fruition. The official name Aina Moana translates as “land from the sea”. As we walk we pass by a small Japanese wedding taking place against the backdrop white foaming breakers rolling in one after the other. The tip of the peninsula is an ideal surf watching location. Surfers can climb down the rocks here against the cliff face to reach the outer part of the reef into open water. Today the surfers are out in numbers patiently waiting in groups to ride the next wave as they build to greater heights than usual for the south coast.
The following day we tick off another goal, to visit the Bishop Museum. While we have taken the trip out to the site before there are always new exhibits to see or programs on. The museum also boasts a planetarium that has various demonstrations showing how the early Micronesians and Polynesians navigated the Pacific Ocean using only the stars to populate the islands way before the west knew they existed. The museum recently returned 10,000 artefacts from their collection to the Mariana islands. Including a group of sacred stones known as Latte, used in early construction as long ago as the building of the pyramids, that have sat in the Bishop Museum’s grounds since the 1920’s. We will be able to view them before they are moved back to their cultural home. There are many more interesting artefacts on display in the vintage cabinets reminiscent of a Victorian style library highly polished Koa timber is used inside the three story building while the exterior features lava rock blocks.
The carved stone figure standing steadfast in one of the ground floor alcoves is called Kaneikokala. The statue uncovered by Wahinenui, a kama’aina (native born) of Kawaihae, Hawaii. Wahinenui claimed his dreams guided him to the buried location of the ki’i (godlike image). After its discovery, he also claimed that the ki’i had pleaded to be taken from the cold earth in which it lay. Kaneikokala came to the Bishop Museum in 1906, and not long afterward became cemented permanently into the floor of the Hawaiian Hall.
It is said that in spite of well intentioned efforts to relocate Kãne to a suitable site outside the Hall, the statue has steadfastly held its ground and has refused to be moved.
Next it’s the planetarium for a lesson on the northern hemisphere night sky. We also learn about the continuing journey of the Hokule’a a traditional Polynesian canoe replica that began its ocean going life in 1976 with a journey to Tahiti. It has since continued to travel around the pacific training young Micronesians and Polynesians how to navigate by the stars and ocean currents alone, therefore continuing their cultural heritage.
An important note, it is Amanda’s birthday today. As we all know she loves to spend her birthdays in warm tropical places. what better place to turn 75 and be with family you haven’t seen for eight years. Tonight we celebrate Amanda & Sister Kate’s birthdays at Merriman’s restaurant.
Our last day arrives, tomorrow we will be on our way home. All our boxes ticked and goals achieved. Three magical islands visited, loved one’s laid to rest in these blue tropical waters. Spending precious time with family that remain, eating, drinking and sharing the memories and stories of our lives with much laughter and just a few tears. A little shopping, a movie, a play, a Cirque du Soleil show, fireworks and a little Hawaiian culture all add up to a wonderful stay. Thirty sunrises and thirty sunsets have passed, as time marches on so must we. Until the call to travel once again like the Wayfinders of past has us packing our bags for another exciting journey.
