Category: Blogs

Saturday July 15th
Matt & I are a sorry sight this morning, red like freshly cooked lobsters. After breakfast we drive to the nearest store to top up on a few items but essentially to find the most soothing after sun moisturiser we can. Unfortunately not too much on offer, surprising on an island of anxious sun loving tourists that a good percentage of must over indulge. 
We are back from our shopping trip in time for Amanda’s brother Jimmy, his wife Susan and daughter Gabriella’s arrival at Honua Kai. They flew in from San Diego this morning and after checking in at their hotel in Lahaina came straight up to us in Kaanapali to have lunch with his estranged sisters.
When they arrive we go straight to Dukes, beachfront restaurant the vibe is electric, Jimmy and Kate haven’t seen each other for some seven years and the same amount of time has passed since all three were together. 

Jimmy has one goal, although it takes second place to eating lunch and consuming some wine, that is too roll around in the hot Hawaiian sand and then wash it all off in the crystal clear waters off Kaanapali bay. Lunch over Jimmy does exactly that, Gaby tags along and Susan & Kate take photos of the event, all very funny and playful.

 Meanwhile we return to our room, not wishing to subject ourselves to more of the suns wrath. Eventually the bathers and sand rollers re convene in our room. We set a dinner date for Lahaina this evening, after some interesting political discussions on the state of USA today, our guests depart to freshen up for our dinner date at Longhi’s on Front street, back in Lahaina.

As the sun once again starts its descent on another beautiful Maui day we make our way back to Lahaina via taxi cab with Jim, Kate & Matt. A Maui landmark since 1976 Longhi’s in Lahaina offers spectacular ocean views, great sunsets and mediterranean inspired cuisine. Fresh Hawaiian fish, live Maine lobster, Prime streaks, pizza and pasta. Best of all though it offered a chance for three siblings to come together and enjoy each other’s company, the evening was full of fun and the telling of many childhood tales that brought tears of laughter to those who remembered the times and those of us that were hearing them for the first time. A great night out and one we will remember for a long time to come.

Eventually the night must end, we say our goodbyes, our taxi cab arrives and we are whisked back to our beds at Honua Kai.

Friday July 14th 
Up early this morning for our sailing/snorkelling trip to Lanai. After a hurried breakfast we drive the now very familiar few miles to Lahaina the cloud cover on the mountains to our left is at a higher level this morning the dry coastal air pushing at their bottoms. To our right the islands of Molokai and Lanai sit in sparkling blue waters with the clouds covering their tops in a similar situation.
We arrive in Lahaina and find a public parking area behind Front St., just a short walk through a shopping mall across Front St., and we are there at the wharf where the Sail Maui catamaran is moored. Troy, Heather and all the kids are here, now with Heathers sister Cindy who arrived from New Jersey yesterday.
We are greeted by the captain Ray, dressed in a large brimmed woven hat, Surfers shorts and top, he’s two crew mates Steve and a female sailor are busying themselves preparing breakfast fruits and making sure all is ready for our departure. We go through a boarding procedure, signing ourselves in then giving up our shoes to Steve who puts them in a communal bag, then onto the boat to stow our belongings in the cabin where the breakfast is laid out and find a seat on the cats deck, or forward trampoline. This catamaran is a small one taking no more than 30 people, our group making up eleven is the largest. Once aboard the captain goes through a few safety instructions, the mooring ropes are released and we motor out of the harbour to start our crossing of the Auau channel bound for Manele Bay and the Lanai Harbour of the same name. 

Out in the channel there is no breeze, we lather up with lots of free onboard sunscreen, the ocean is a deep indigo, lazy small glassy waves surround us making it a smooth passage. The sun is relentless quickly burning off any clouds that dare to cross its face, leaving only clear blue.
Abbey, Cadence, Aubrey and Calista take up positions on the forward trampoline stretching out to catch up on some sleep the early start has cheated them of. The rest of us lounge on the small deck watching the ocean for any activity. Flying fish run before us, shooting out from the bow in all directions skipping and skimming the low waves like thrown stones. The fish are small, reminding me of small birds like swallows as they dip and dive, only eventually to disappear into the ocean rather than the sky. Lanai gradually grows bigger before us a dry and barren looking island sparsely vegetated. The trip takes about two hours of chugging along in the breathless air under a scorching sun. 

Ahead we see another boat surrounded by a large pod of spinner dolphins, the ocean boiling with slapping tail fins their grey sleek arching bodies breaching the surface in shallow dives as they circle the boat. As we approach the other boat departs leaving the pod to welcome us as we slow into their midst. Everyone rushes forward for the picture op, the children all excited to see so many dolphins in the wild. The pod playfully dip and dive around us giving everyone a great experience. 
The pod departs and we chug on along the black Lanai cliffs moving ever closer towards the Manele Harbour. We arrive, and make for Manele Bay just outside the harbour entrance, the water is crystal clear about 12 feet deep you can see the coral outcrops with the occasional flash of yellow as a Yellow Tang tropical fish darts out from under a coral outcrop. The crew have previously prepared us with flippers and snorkelling gear, we strip off our outer wear re apply some sunscreen and line up either to jump off the leeward side prow or to take the stairs that the crew have unfolded at the central portion of the trampoline. 

I decide to go for the grand entrance, jumping off the prow, holding my snorkel & mask so the impact doesn’t jerk it free I take the plunge. I am suddenly immersed in the warm tropical waters of Manele Bay, no cold water shock here, the water temperature matches the air. I swim around to the front of the boat by now all of the party except Amanda is in the water, she is not snorkelling today. The kids are all off exploring the reef like they belonged in this environment. Heathers sister Cindy the only one looking a little out of her comfort zone, this being her first snorkelling experience. Nevertheless she is bobbing around on a noodle enjoying a warm seawater bath. I snorkel on, exploring the coral and looking out for reef fish. Some school at certain types of coral diving in and out to suck up some indeterminable food source. Convict Tang and Yellowstripe Goat fish in the main. Other species float on their lonesome in and out of the coral, Parrot and Butterfly fish I can easily identify but many others abound. Matthew is excited ticking off a bucket list item, he finds a sea turtle to swim with, a bigger brother to the little long necked freshwater turtle he has in a tank at home.

The hour of free snorkelling goes by quickly and we return to the boat to dry off and prepare to enter the harbour. 

Once in the Harbour the crew hand out our pre packed picnic of sandwiches, salads and cookies, we disembark to make the ten minute walk to Hulopoe beach. On the last two trips we have made to Lanai we snorkelled at this beach rather than the bay, the bay was far better in my opinion.
Hulopoe beach is a crescent shaped bay surrounded by parklands dotted with picnic tables, we choose one just a short distance from the beach. The hungry crew of snorkelers devour the meal in double quick time wanting to head for the beach, temptingly just over the sand dunes in front of us. Having had enough of the sun, I lay out my towel on the sparse grass underneath two palm trees, very careful to position myself away from any coconuts that might just decide to head earthbound. Here I watch the breeze swirl around the trees tops and quietly fall asleep.

Eventually I am awakened by Amanda, it’s time to walk back to the boat for our return journey. The beachgoers have returned in awe of yet another beautiful Hawaiian sandy beach so we gather our belongings and stroll back down the road towards Manele Harbour.
Once we are back on board we take up our seating positions the kids once again opting for the forward trampoline despite warnings that the seas maybe a little heavier on our return. We expect to sail a good way of the distance back to Lahaina but the wind is not cooperating, the crew unfurl the sails, we toss around on the glassy waves for awhile with only the occasional flap of the sails indicating any wind at all. Unfortunately, the crew eventually give up and we motor back across the strait, there is nothing quite like sailing through the ocean with just the sound of the wind in the sails. The deep indigo blue glassy waves become larger and deeper as we near the centre of the channel. 

Then suddenly there are shrieks of dismay from the kids as a we bounce into a trough, seawater squirting up through the porous trampoline drenching them.

We continue on our way with a drenching becoming a reoccurring event, two middle aged ladies sit soaking up mimosas (champagne and fruit juice) on one of the front pontoons receiving a regular soaking but it doesn’t seem to dampen their enthusiasm for more mimosas, as they keep calling for more from the crew who seem more than willing to keep them hydrated.
Meanwhile the sun beats down relentlessly, boring through any sun protection, I cover myself with a towel, Amanda has long since found shade inside the cabin and behind the sails when they were hoisted. We can feel the sun though frying our skin as we finely make Lanai Harbour. 

Amanda, Matt and I head back to Honua Kai to refresh ourselves for dinner tonight. Troy has booked us into the Lahaina Pizza Co. for a kid friendly dinner tonight. It will be wonderful to share a meal with them all.
We return to Lahaina and dinner, we are all sunburnt and hungry. The pizzas are deep pan style, tasty and filling. After dinner we walk Front street to locate an ice creamy, that serves both ice cream and the in vogue again shaved ice, back bigger and better than at anytime in the past. Successful we eat our desserts on foot as we make our way back to our car and Troy, Heather & gang back to their hotel.

Tomorrow Amanda’s brother Jimmy, wife Susan and daughter Gabriela arrive sure to be a fun family day.

Thursday 13th July
Lay back do nothing kind of day today. Matt is celebrating his 43rd birthday today and enjoying the fact that in Australia it was yesterday and today he can do it all again. I cook up a big eggs Benedict breakfast with bacon (bacon makes any meal it better), complete with a perfect hurriedly concocted hollandaise sauce and sourdough English muffins (although I am sure the English never thought of sour dough). By the time this is prepared the time is 11.00am. We are running very late and are supposed to rendezvous with Troy, Heather and the grandchildren for lunch, but Troy has underestimated the time needed to meet with the wedding planner and finalise the last of the wedding plans back in Kahului. We eventually do catch-up with them at their hotel in Lahaina around mid afternoon, after we have had a further browse of the outlet stores and once again strolled Front street. 

We go our seperate ways, the five kids need feeding as they are now famished, we head back to the hotel to dress for dinner at Fleetwood’s restaurant tonight. Mick Fleetwood, founding member and drummer for Fleetwood Mac, who lives on the island when not touring or recording has a very popular restaurant on Front Street, with a small museum-gallery-shop down stairs. Apparently he is known to play the occasional gig himself in the basement as well. Our dinner reservation is for 7.00pm and this will be the highlight of our day. 

We take a cab back to Lahaina as the sun starts its journey towards the horizon. Fleetwood’s is situated facing the ocean, our cabby drops us off behind the building and we enter through a side door, then upwards into a dimly lit space with a distinctively clubby atmosphere. We enjoyed a late lunch here last year, I remember the atmosphere differently maybe because it was much earlier in the day. We check in with the receptionist who directs us upwards again to the top level of this three level building. The top level is completely open to the sky with just a chunky pergola above a bar in the centre of the floor, bartenders are frantically mixing cocktails for the thirsty patrons. We are seated at a table overlooking Front street with a view of the ocean and are quickly invited to add our cocktail to the bartenders list. The sun is rapidly descending towards the horizon, the sunset tonight will be amazing. Patrons are in turns taking photos on a small staging platform of the sunset or their partners against the ocean/sunset or selfies. Our server brings us a round of cocktails and we deliberate over the menu, none of us having a clear preference. Our server returns with an explanation of the menu adding specials of the day. One of the specials in particular catches our imagination, Beef Wellington wrapped in prosciutto, with lobster tail and shrimp accompanied by Brussels sprouts sautéed with bacon. Amanda and I decide to share this dish while Matt decides on a Filet Mignon. The wine in the US is still a mystery to me, but on instinct I order a Pinot Noir from the Sonoma valley that turns out to be spot on. All the while the sun slowly sinks into the ocean spreading all of its spectacular magnificence across the sea and reflecting its dying light across the undersides of the last of the available clouds.

Night follows, stars pop out seemingly one by one, a gentle cooling breeze blows off the ocean as we relax and enjoy our meals to the strains of blues influenced music from the Sixties. Eventually, sadly we have to leave, we recall our cab and make our way back through the warm night to our beds at Honua Kai.

Wednesday July 12th
Today is pickup day for Troy, Heather and the grandkids their flight doesn’t arrive into Kahului until around 5.30pm so plenty of time to take in some more sights before we head over there to greet them. The wind is blowing hard off the ocean this morning but the temperature is forecast around 30c again today. After breakfast we take a drive down to Whalers village a small outdoor shopping mall right on the beach. While we are there we browse the shops and then walk along the beach front to the Westin were we have booked to take all of the grandkids to a luau after the wedding. The wind has magically died down leaving a pleasantly warm day for the throngs of beach goers along this part of the shoreline. 

We receive a message from Troy, they are grounded in LAX a mechanical problem with their aircraft has them delayed by 3 hours. We decide then to go on to the Maui Brewing company for lunch, Matt has discovered some microbrews by this company and is keen to try one or two. The small brewery is tucked away in yet another shopping complex, a little further north along Honoapiilani Hwy. after a little difficulty we locate the brewery tucked away in a corner location. As we walk inside brewery vats sit behind glass to our right and above on a mezzanine floor. The decor is warehouse meets sports bar meets brewery. Small aluminium beer kegs converted to light fittings shine down from the high open warehouse ceiling over wooden tables, benches and chairs set on a dark grey concrete floor. Flat screen TV’s dot the walls showing various sporting events.

A colourful chalkboard spells out the various available beers. 

We are shown to our table. Given some menus then soon served by a waitress to take our drinks orders. Matt & I go for a Lorenzini with the bitter taste of blood oranges not realising the alcohol content is 7.6%. Amanda opts for a Bikini blond lager at 5.1% it still packs a punch.

The food is very beer orientated as one would expect, small share plates, sliders, burgers and sandwiches dominate but there are salads. Matt goes the cheese burger, Amanda the Rueben sandwich, that takes her immediately back to her roots, while I have the fish burger, all served with a generous serving of fries of course. 

Well satisfied we take off back to the Honua Kai to wait out the few hours before we need to leave to pickup Troy and the gang from Kahului airport. I begin to write this blog but a beer induced stupor comes over me, one glass of that beer I swear, and I fall asleep on the couch.
I awake about ninety minutes later feeling groggy, Amanda has befallen the same fate on the bed while reading her book. I realise a coffee fix would do me good and head down to the lobby floor where an adjacent market is situated, they make good coffee although on this occasion it is super hot. Troy keeps us updated at regular intervals, finally a message comes through, the flight from LAX is now due at 8.08pm. Low clouds have occasionally crept down from the hills behind us leaving little sprinkles of rain and at times spectacular rainbows signifying our good fortune. 

While on the oceanside a catamaran lazily traverses our view framed by swaying palm trees.

The sun however is never too far away, by the time  we leave to go to the airport it has travelled a good way towards the western horizon, we drop Matt off at Lahaina just in time for him to see the sunset and enjoy some of the Lahaina night time buzz. We make good time to Kahului airport, park the car before buying floral leis for the girls and Koa nut leis for the boys. They soon arrive in the baggage area where we are waiting for them, looking weary after a long day complicated by the exhaustive layover in LAX. We welcome them all, placing the traditional colourful floral leis around their necks and wishing them aloha! The party of two tired adults and five weary children pick up their car rental, as we make our way back to our car with enough suitcases to allow them a little more room in their vehicle. 

Again we make good time to Lahaina and their hotel where we see them to their rooms and wish them a good night. Matt is waiting for us on Front St., we pick him up and return to the Honua Kai ready for another restful recharge in preparation for events as they slowly build towards Troy & Heathers wedding on Tuesday.

11th July 2017
The sea is like polished glass this morning, the usually swaying palm trees are still, the forecast is for cloudy skies. Still we stick to our decision to take a drive up to the Haleakala crater. After breakfast and our morning ablutions, Amanda packs us a lunch of freshly made sandwiches ready for our trip. We are soon on our way south east along the Honoapiilani Hwy towards Kahului. We hug the coastline for 20kms or so overlooking the sparkling channel between Maui and Lanai, before turning northwards. Two other islands are visible as we make the turn, Kahoolawe, the smallest of the eight volcanic islands in the Hawaiian chain and Molokini a crescent shaped tip of an extinct volcano that forms an islet in the Alalakeiki channel. Once through Kahului we turn again south westwards and start our long sometimes torturous climb upwards towards Haleakala national park. This is the fourth time we have made this trip, the first for Matt but the journey is always interesting and different. As we climb we pass through lush green pastures, horse country, with rolling hills and jacaranda trees that are spectacular when in bloom but today we see only a few of the last remaining purple-blue blossoms. Then suddenly we are in a forest of eucalypts before bursting into ancient rocky lava fields filled with tussocks of yellow-orange grasses tinged with a little green. Intrepid cyclists make their way down hill as we travel upwards, their faces showing a look of distain as they alternate between wet and dry zones. As we proceed ever higher the clouds spill out their water laden contents in buckets. Then having passed the atmosphere dries, the black top still holding the heat from the last burst of intense sunshine creates wispy trails of steam that run in river-lets along the bitumen like snakes running for cover. The cars temperature gauge is dropping as we rise through 6000ft then 7000ft then 8000ft then 9000ft eventually settling around the 58f mark (14c).

It is an eerie feeling driving with clouds parallel to you not above you, a cloud fills your field of view at every hairpin bend almost urging you to fly, the closest I’ll get to being a pilot.
Eventually we reach the entrance of Haleakala national park, pay our entrance fee and proceed the last 10 kilometres or so through the almost barren ancient lava fields, now reddy brown with the oxidation that comes with their extreme age to the summit at 10,000ft. 
The cloud encircles the summit around it and above, it is windy as we venture out of the car and walk around to the various viewing points. The occasional patch of blue shows through the whitest of clouds in one direction while darker clouds drift across from another anointing our heads with small droplets of Hawaiian blessings. From one of the viewing points we can see clearly into the crater the rusty cinder cones clearly visible, the cloud moves in like a huge blanket sending its wispy fingers curling down as if searching for a hold on which to pull its bulk further forward. I am standing on a rocky point facing off a wall of pure white cloud as it moves across my field of view obliterating the scene completely. At other viewing points small streaks of cloud seem to be trying to escape the craters grasp desperately trying to move skywards. The Haleakalā High Altitude Observatory Site is clearly visible, at this elevation we are in the first one third of the earths atmosphere making it an ideal astronomical viewing site.

We climb back into the car and begin our descent, Amanda has taken the back seat this trip, steadfastly occupying herself with her IPad rather than look out at the steep drop offs as we round each bend. Matt sits in the scary seat beside me constantly working the non existent brake pedal that would in Australia normally be on his side. The car just cruises back down the way we came its own mass adding to the momentum as we build speed occasionally needing third gear to slow our descent.
Growing hungry and in need of a coffee I spot a sign to the historic town of Makawao, we make the right turn and are soon in a busy country tourist town. There is more than a hint of cowboy to this town, with horse floats and huge dual cab four wheel drive vehicles lined up along the street, particularly around the general store. There are galleries of local artworks amongst gifts shops and coffee houses all housed in buildings dating back to the 30’s and beyond. Parking spaces are rapidly snapped up as they are vacated. Fortunately we find one soon, right out side a coffee shop. Inside though the coffee is dispensed from huge urns, black only. The ice cream looks interesting with flavours like sand and coffee crunch, but it is coffee we crave and so walk back along the main street to a cafe sporting a sign “real Italian coffee served here”

Inside the gleaming espresso machine is a positive sign, the resultant cappuccino appears thick and creamy when I lift the lid on the takeaway container to add my dusting of chocolate. First taste tells me this is good coffee, Matt agrees his flat white is just to his tastes, we order Amanda an iced herbal tea the server brews a fresh concoction of mint and fruity flavours for her, she is delighted too!
On the way back to the car we pass a restaurant with a catchy sign out front “Come in and Eat or we will both Starve” got to love the humour.

Driving out of town we find a shady spot under some enormous Norfolk Pines adjacent to a cemetery with ancient looking tomb stones to devour our packed lunch and coffees then we are back on the road heading back to Ka’anapali.
We settle back into the apartment just as the light is beginning to fade, from the balcony the sun is low over the ocean cascading blinding light in our direction, dark clouds hang over the island of Lanai where pineapples are still grown today, the sunset should be spectacular. We are distracted though and miss it completely, darkness descends the flaming torches throw reflected light back from the swimming pools the end of another day approaches. To end the day we rustle up some chicken marinated in black pepper, olive oil, honey and lime juice, Matt makes a garden salad and we sit with our glasses of Washington State Chardonnay and he with a very nice Maui brewery beer in the cooling ocean breezes discussing the day and coming events.

10th July 2017
A lazy morning this morning, that’s what holidays are all about hey! The sun sparkles off the ocean as it rises to our east into another clear blue sky. From our balcony we can see that down at the beach the palm trees are still swaying in the breeze as if waving in a new day. Meanwhile we catch up on some news, love the powerful way the US news is presented. The US print & digital media wants to collude to attack Facebook and Google over their advertising revenue dominance. Due to local antitrust laws that, is going to be one hell of a challenge. The world is in the process of change its palpable here, in Australia we see the changes filtering down but America is on the front line.
Matt is just catching up from his 24 hour flight ordeal yesterday but we have a rendezvous with Lahaina this afternoon. Once he is up and about we take off down the Honoapiilani Hwy towards Lahaina. Lahaina was originally capital of the Hawaiian kingdom, the famous British explorer James Cook came here, both British and American settlers and missionaries followed. As a port the town played host to many whaling vessels that stopped over to resupply and take shore leave with the more than friendly natives. Today it is a picturesque town, sailing boats and working vessels sit side by side in its harbour, their reflections rippling off the water. While green covered sheer sided mountains rise behind, overlooking the town. Very much a tourist destination these days, with fine art, food, water activities and this amazing climate to offer it is very popular.

We find a shaded undercroft carpark conveniently adjacent to the outlet mall off the main highway and are drawn to the shops. Matt has a few items to purchase ahead of son Troy’s & partner Heather’s wedding next Tuesday. We spend a successful hour or so browsing and buying, all the outlet stores are well stocked with merchandise at sale prices that are irresistible to the usually frugal Matt.
After returning our packages to the cool car we walk back to Front street, the sun is now beating down relentlessly reflecting sparkling diamonds of light back off the ocean. The street is a mishmash of restaurants, tourist shops, art galleries and historic sites, we wander along passed the Chinese temple Musuem and Cookhouse Theatre the latter of timber construction and miraculously still standing in original condition. Chinese indentured workers played a big part in this town during the days of the sugar plantations that provided so much economic growth for Hawaii after the whaling vessels stopped coming. We pass by Jimmy Buffets “Cheese Burgher in Paradise” restaurant and Mick Fleetwood’s “Fleetwoods” restaurant. Stop under the cooling shade of a Banyon tree where a plaque marks the original residence of William Richards and wife Clarissa Lyman. These two hardy souls arrived in 1823 to Christianise the heathen Hawaiians. Their home even fired upon by ships canons as they tried to prevent the mingling of Hawaiian women and sailors as they came to port after many months at sea on whaling expeditions. I recommend reading James A Michener’s book “Hawaii” an historical fiction that is based on fact, he has only changed the names to protect the “innocent”.
We enjoy freshly brewed ice tea, coffee and sandwiches by a Koi and turtle filled stream before heading back down Front street to the carpark ready to make our way back to the Honua Kai. The Sun once again fades into night, from our lanai we have a partial ocean view that looks out over manicured lawns, sparkling swimming pools and swaying palms. As the light fades and the flaming torches come alight we set the table for a home cooked pizza, open a bottle of wine and discuss the day. Matt contemplating just maybe another shopping spree while we enjoy the cool night breezes flowing off the now dark ocean. 

  

Yesterday the 8th July

A very lazy day yesterday, Amanda and Kate go shopping! Yes again! But that’s what sisters do! I decline the invitation preferring to lounge by the pool and catch-up with the weekends football. It’s our last night in Honolulu before we fly to Maui. Jim & Kate are keen to take us to a new restaurant “Nobu’s” on Ward. Nobu Matsuhisa has moved his famous Waikiki restaurant to the up and coming Ward centre in the Ala Moana district. Chef Nobu is considered an artisan, bringing fresh seasonal produce to the table in a Japanese Hawaiian western fusion style.
As is just about any want you may desire, Nobu’s is just a short walk through the warm tropical dusk to our destination. We are greeted and seated at a table that is in the midst of many others, with music blaring from ceiling mounted speakers and the loud buzz of the diners, talking to each other is going to be a challenge. The hostess is more than happy to move us to a quieter section of the restaurant where we are seated and able to converse freely. 

The waiters are attentive, soon explaining the menu. Small plates and sharing is the theme, degustation menus also available for those diners with a large appetite and deep pockets. The Japanese of course love their ingredients fresh, so fresh that a good deal of the items are uncooked. They also like their hot sauces, some of the listed ingredients sound deadly. Jim and Kate are vegetarians, it seems they have far less of a minefield to negotiate than we do. After a good deal of discussion Amanda and I decide on four courses to share. Oysters wrapped in thin slices of King Salmon (this one for me as these raw ingredients are not on Amanda’s must have list). Mixed tempura vegetables, Rock shrimp tempura with jalapeños sauce and Bay scallops with wasabi salsa. Thankfully both the jalapeño and Wasabi ingredients lacked extreme heat. We order two glasses of Lanson Brut Rose to toast our hosts and settle down to await food service. The food is beautifully presented, plentiful and tasty, service impeccable. Belly’s full we walk home to the Hokua through the warm night and under the almost full moon that is shining down on us through a haze of humidity that looks heavier than it is down at street level.
Today 9th July

Back to the airport after repacking for our flight to Maui, again the weather is superb, we just wake every morning and hit reset and repeat. We bid farewell to Kate and Jim, It being Sunday traffic is light and with the airport only a short distance away we are soon there. Our Hawaiian airlines flight makes the short jump to Kahului airport situated on the northern side of Maui. When we arrive the weather here is decidedly warmer/hotter and windy, nearly blowing off my newly acquired Truffaux panama hat. Since the cooler winds predominantly blow from the south off the ocean we are hopeful that our final destination at Kaanapali will be somewhat cooler. I need to check myself here arrived two minutes ago and I am complaining about the heat, bring it on, I say. Next stop pickup the rental car, we shuttle across to the rent ‘a’ car hub thankfully the process is smooth. I still don’t understand why they ask you to reserve a particular model or size vehicle, no matter which company you choose they never have the car you booked and they always try to up sell you.

Having secured a red Hyundai Elantra we hop back on the shuttle back to the airport baggage claim to await the arrival of son Matt who is scheduled to arrive on the 2.19pm from Honolulu. 
Matt arrives on time and looking fine after three consecutive flights from Adelaide then Sydney and finally Honolulu to Kahului. Starbucks has provided us with some much needed caffeine sustenance while we waited, we top up and make our way again by shuttle to pick up our transport. The road to Kaanapali awaits, a little nervously we take to the wrong side of the road and chortle off towards our destination. The road takes us south across the neck of the turtle shaped island that is Maui, ahead to our left in the distance is the cloud covered Haleakala volcano. We turn north west at the ocean travelling along the coast line most famous for its resorts and the old whaling port of Lahaina. The island of Lanai rises out of the deep blue water now ironically a whale safe haven. It is Sunday the locals are picnicking along the coastline their four wheel dual cab utilities lined up for miles along the coast keeping watch over mums, dads and kids playing in the surf. The smoke from BBQ’s can be seen rising above the low craggy trees that hug this part of the coast. No doubt their boom boxes are beating out a rhythm to match their playful spirits.

We drive on towards Lahaina anxious to settle into the resort hotel, pickup some supplies and slip into holiday mode. 
By 6.30pm we have settled in to our self contained apartment, discovered a nearby supermarket and stocked our fridge with enough supplies for a few meals complete with matching wine. Matt has lasted the day well but is starting to fade. As darkness falls our 7.45pm dinner reservation time is rapidly approaching. Dukes is the hotels only restaurant, set facing the beach with full beach decor, tables set under straw covered cabanas, sit amongst palm trees, torches with their yellow/orange flames flutter in the light breeze completing the scene. A male Hawaiian singer sits on a stool strumming on an electric ukulele under one of the cabanas accompanying himself to a rambling indeterminate song that is punctuated with bursts of Happy Birthday. 

Matt and Amanda order some beach fare, good American burgers with shoe string fries, beer and wine for them. I opt for some flamed grilled Opa, a tasty in season local fish but not before savouring my first piña colada for the holiday, do real men drink cocktails? I had to ask myself as the waitress hands the drink to Amanda, looking at me somewhat askance as I tell her that drink is mine! After our meal we return back to our beds along the fairy light lit pathways passing the sparkling pool the full moon shining brilliantly above us. An Hawaiian resort employee notices us staring at the brilliance of the moon and tells us that this is a Mahealani moon and that the ancient Hawaiians used the phases of the moon and the stars to guide their canoes on the long ocean voyages across the pacific, and so it guides us to our ships of dreams tonight.

The sky is a clear diamond blue, the outline of the mountains to our north stand out crisply, no mountain mists or rain clouds that so often crown them are visible today. The Ala Moana area along the south west coast is continually changing. We have watched those changes over the years with interest. First visiting the district in the late 80’s to shop and have a meal at the Ward centre, a then thriving modern if a little funky shopping centre. Of course Ala Moana was always a Mecca for the shopping tourist, where an Australian dollar could buy so much in those days. Now though the district is a residential neighbourhood, new towering apartment buildings arise from the ground every year offering accomodation from affordable to Uber luxury.

On an island of 1545sq kilometres (Kangaroo island is 4405sq kilometres) the only way to house a growing population of around one million people is up.

As each building is completed an influx of new residents make their new homes in the district as so do new and old businesses vie for newly created retail spaces.

We venture out into the warm Hawaiian air to investigate some of the stores, coffee shops and restaurants, also to wander through the now old Ward Centre district for the last time as it is due to be demolished in August 2017. The demolition will herald the building of another apartment block with a refreshed shopping precinct below.

‘O Ke’alekūpuna ke kilo, nāna nō e kuhikuhi nei i ke ala e naue aku ai.

The pathways once traversed by our ancestors are the same paths that we should follow toward success.

A little history of the area

The Ward Centre was named after Victoria Ward, the daughter of James (a British ship builder) and Rebecca Robinson (who was of Hawaiian descent), Victoria Ward was born in 1846 under the reign of Kamehameha III and was raised by her mother in ke ‘ano Hawaii (the Hawaiian style) where Hawaiian was the first language spoken in the household. In fact, when she married Curtis P Ward in 1865, Kamehameha V and the entire royal court attended the ceremony. They purchased 100 acres of prime Honolulu realestate that stretched from the outskirts of Honolulu towards and along the coast to Ala Moana, there they built the “Old Plantation” completed in 1882. this was a stately, Southern-style home on the mauka portion of the property. It featured an artesian well, vegetable and flower gardens, a large pond stocked with fish, and extensive pasturage for horses and cattle. Self-sufficient as a working farm, Old Plantation was surrounded by a vast coconut grove.

After the death of Curtis Ward in the same year (1882) at the age of 53, Victoria continued the family business from the “Old Plantation” home.

Curtis P Ward and Victoria Ward were the parents of seven daughters. While many married, three—Hattie Kulamanu, Lucy Kaika, and Victoria Kathleen— remained on at the Old Plantation house the last of them passing in 1961.  “The Old Plantation House” lasted for 80 years before unfortuneatly succumbing to development.

The owners of the Ala Moana shopping centre purchased the land from the Victoria Ward company in 2002 then spun the development off to the Howard Hughes corporation in 2010. While in 2015 Australian Super purchased a 25% share in the shopping centre for $1.1Billion.
The district is now a vibrant community with more and more service orientated businesses flocking to the area.
At 4.00pm we take a short walk to the Cinema complex, on the way we book an outside table for dinner tonight at Bellini’s Italian restaurant. We have dressed warmly for the expected chill of the theatre’s interior, our tickets for Wonder Woman (compliments of Jim and Kate) are tucked securely in my pocket. Wonder Woman is the latest in DC comics movie adaptation of their famous comic book character and heroine of the same name.

It’s a long movie, taking the viewer through Wonder Woman’s (Diana’s) childhood through to her entry into the world of man during World War One. Diana is played by Israeli model turned actress Gal Gadot.
We emerge from the cinema into the warm twilight, wispy clouds their underbellies tinged with the last of the reflected orange sunlight drift lazily across the sky. We cross the street to take up our outside table at Bellini’s. One of the most precious pleasures of Hawaii is dining outside on warm balmy nights as soft cool breezes drift off the ocean never far away.
We share calamari fritte for appetiser, tender squid deep fried in a light almost tempura batter. For entree (mains at home) we can’t go past the Lobster at $25.00. The Lobster piled high in the half shell and served with chargrilled vegetables would be at least $50-$60 in a restaurant at home.
For dessert we walk over to the newest of the shopping districts arcade style shops dubbed “South Shore”where earlier on today we spotted Lucy’s ice cream lab. First discovered on our last visit in the back streets with hardly a customer, the ice creamery is now front and centre in a new store and pulling in crowds of customers anxious to try one of Lucy’s exotic flavours. We queue, but it’s worth it settling on a single sugar cone of “cinnamon crunch toast” ice cream with “cinnamon crunch toast” topping.

We stop for awhile to devour our ice creams as we know they will not last long outside in the warmth of the Hawaiian night, once finished we make for our beds awaiting us at the Hokua.

We wake to a day that is a little overcast, with splotches of blue here and there but by the time we commence our shopping expedition there is more blue than grey. The air is warm as we climb into Kate’s new iridescent bluey green 230i BMW coupe, the paintwork reminds one of oil on water changing constantly depending on how the light reflects back to your eye. The car looks and smells as if it rolled off the assembly line just yesterday but in fact it’s a year old. First stop is a local designer Anne Namba, her designs are inspired by traditional Japanese influences that are carefully crafted into lightweight modern ladies fashion garments designed for elegant easy day and night wear. The lightweight non wrinkling silks and cotton fabrics are ideal for the local climate and for travellers. The showroom is situated just a few minutes away from Ala Moana in modest surroundingsr, the style, elegance and glamour is all inside. We met Anne on our last visit this time though she is showing her wares at fashion shows on the mainland’s east coast. We are greeted by Mary, Anne’s very knowledgable assistant who explains the fabrics and the stories behind the designs to our eager ladies. Kate and Amanda flit about like butterflies in a field of colour seeking that perfect drop of nectar. Mary hurries back and forth as Amanda gives a yes or no to various selections that are then carefully hung in the dressing room. 
I wander the showrooms polished concrete floors, displays feature natural polished timber highlights as do the dressing room doors. An ancient Japanese iron and leather suit of armour sits in the corner holding a fan emblazoned with the rising sun, intricately woven with yellow orange and green silk it sits above a Buddha head and painted portable rice carrier silently overseeing events. The clothes here are the real stars though and take precedence, the showrooms decor cleverly designed not to distract the buyer. 
The real fun starts as piece by piece Amanda tries on this or that outfit with both sisters bursting into spontaneous giggles if the fit is outrageously wrong. I try to retreat to a quiet corner but my presence is required for a critique on each outfit as it is presented. After some parading and twirling, piece changes here and there decisions are made and it’s Kate’s turn. Kate seems more considered in her approach carefully singling out just a few pieces before deciding which ones to try on. Interestingly they settle on the same basic dress just the mix and match pieces are different reflecting their individual body sizes, tastes and personalities.
We climb back into the car, parcels loaded in the “trunk” the heat of the day forcing the aircon on to full blast. Next stop Ala Moana shopping centre again just a short distance away. Ala Moana shopping centre is the largest outdoor mall in the world some 80,000sq meters of shopping space over three levels. Consistently voted one of the top ten successful malls in all of the US. A new wing completed last year and a freshen up of some of the malls more ageing infrastructure has given it a fresh look. With contemplative pools of Koi fish swimming in crystal clear waters that divide the malls walkways and 340 stores and restaurants there is literally something here for everyone. First we stop of for a quick snack to fortify us for the forthcoming afternoon then onwards to the stores.

The afternoon rapidly turns to evening, the sun gradually sinking, we head for our dinner rendezvous with shopping wary Jim at Nordstrom’s Ruscello full service restaurant. Jim wondrously has secured a table on the expansive balcony that is nestled in among the high rise apartment buildings with a direct line of sight to the swaying palm trees and sparkling ocean of Ala Moana Beach Park. As the sun goes down apartment lights pop on all around us bathing us in twinkling light. Dinner cruise boats hug the coast while yachts in colourful sail head for port.

We settle in to enjoy Mediterranean Hummus with garbanzo beans, kalamata olives, marinated feta, extra virgin olive oil and rosemary bread. Followed by Cilantro Lime Chicken with organic baby greens, romaine lettuce, jack cheese, tomatoes, grilled corn, pumpkin seeds and cilantro lime vinaigrette for her. For me Ginger Crusted Ahi Tuna with organic baby greens, cabbage, blistered green beans, red pepper, seasoned wontons, candied ginger, soy glaze and spicy thai basil vinaigrette. Of course accompanied by a glass of, on this occasion, Washington State Chardonnay.
As the hour approaches 8.00pm we depart for home, exit is through the still open Nordstrom department store waiting to snag that one last sale. Tired after a day on our feet and a successful shopping expedition we are happy to fall into bed to recharge our run down batteries.

We board the Boeing 737-800 but there is a delay due to a little software gremlin in the planes engine systems. The ghost busters are soon on the job, the gremlin banished and we are on our way, but not before some reassurance by the captain that all is well and that this bird will fly us safely to our destination.After a late snack we are tucked in and lights out. One of the best investments we ever made are noise reducing headphones, put these baby’s on and the engines roar is reduced to almost zero. This flight they became invaluable as a very young child in the seat behind us just did not want to settle down for the night. The sweet little angel bawled the whole night long and into the morning. Despite this the headphones performed well and we both enjoyed about six hours of sleep.

The midday Hawaiian sunlight seeps in through the planes window shades as breakfast is prepare for service. Fellow passengers awake, hostesses fuss around taking breakfast orders, the aroma of fresh coffee fills the cabin area. We have made good time across the pacific arriving very close to our original estimated landing time. After breakfast service the window shades are raised, the cabin crew ready us for landing as the sun streams through the cabin we make our descent into Honolulu airport.

We disembark into the warmth of a tropical July day, 28c perfect. Hawaii is a great gateway to the US the relaxed layback atmosphere is palpable, everyone is in holiday mode. We breeze through security control, pickup our bags and head out into the airports slipways to pick up a taxi to take us to Amanda’s sister and brother in law’s (Kate and Jim) apartment. When we arrive they are there to greet us and show us to the guest suite they have reserved for us. We feel very special the suite overlooks Ala Moana beach park, a sail boat drifts across our view with two para-sailors flying high across the blue sky. Palm trees sway in the tropical breeze outside our window alongside other tropical varieties showing enormous yellow to orange blossoms that hang like oversized bunches of grapes from their laden branches.
After refreshing ourselves, Kate takes us off to sort out Tele communications and buy some essentials for our stay. The afternoon disappears quickly and is replaced with a warm tropical night. Perfect for an outside dining experience at Moku Kitchen, a Peter Merriman restaurant newly established in the Ala Moana district.

Peter Merriman is a successful Hawaiian chef with restaurants scattered around the islands, his cuisine is very much based on locavore principles, locally grown seasonal produce farm to table. Small sharing plates a speciality.

Tonight we enjoyed fish taco’s, butternut pumpkin ravioli and green beans with crushed macadamia nuts in a soy ginger and chilli sauce. A glass of Californian Chardonnay helped the meal along nicely.

Tomorrow is a shopping day as Amanda focuses in on an outfit for Troy & Heathers wedding.