Adelaide to Uluṟu Day 3

We rise a little later after a long day yesterday, having the rental car is a boon. After a leisurely breakfast it’s time to enact our plan to travel out to the other monolithic rock structure on the horizon Kata Tjuṯa. The 36 domes that make up this collection of islands in a red desert sea are composed of Conglomerate (sedimentary rock rounded to gravel sized pieces-clasts ranging from a micron to the size of an apartment block). A conglomerate typically contains a mixture of finer-grained particles like sand, silt or clay that fills the air spaces between the clasts. These then are cemented by other minerals like calcium carbonate, iron oxide and silica all hardened by the clay. At Kata Tjuṯa the sedimentary rock consists of cobbles and boulders of varying rock types including granite and basalt bound by coarse sandstone. Kata Tjuṯa, that includes Mount Olga covers an area of 21.68 km² (8.37 sq mi). The highest dome, Mount Olga, is 1,066 m (3,497 ft) above sea level, or approximately 546 m (1,791 ft) above the surrounding plain 198 m (650 ft) higher than Uluṟu. Geology lesson over it is interesting to note there the indigenous people of this area recognise three distinct rock formations not two. The other being Mt Connor or as the aboriginals call it Artilla. Mt Connor remains in private hands so is not accessible to the traditional owners or the general public.

Our drive to Kata Tjuṯa takes 38 minutes, but by no means boring after recent rains the desert is alive with wild flowers. Low scrubby bushes look exceedingly healthy with new growth, flowers, seed pods and fruits. One particular bush the honey grevillea has a yellow wiry flower that oozes with nectar a favourite with aboriginal children who suck the flowers dry right from the bush. Sturt’s desert pea, although a South Australian state emblem also grows well in this arid environment.

On the way we stop off at a lookout that gives us a great panoramic view of the Kata Tjuṯa domes and surrounding landscape

Our walk today takes us into Waḻpa Gorge where two of the giant domes that make up Kata Tjuṯa come together at one end. The walk takes about an hour covering 2.6 kilometres. On our approach we spot zebra tailed finches flitting from one tree to another in a frenzy of chatter. We continue on an upward path, a gentle slope but a rocky one. You can clearly see rounded cobbled basalt stones embedded by clay along the red tinted pathway. There is loose gravel in places so one has to be careful not to slip as we progress along the entry. Either side the walls of these two red domes climb upwards to a brilliant blue sky. Some areas are sheer others have pockets in them like footholds that a climbing giant would need to make it to the top. Man made bridges allow easy crossing of gorges that would be hard to negotiate if they weren’t there. Watching where we put our feet and stopping frequently to take photos makes this slow warm work, the sun is still rising to its zenith with the temperature a tolerable 26c. As the temperature rises we contend with an increasing number of flies, other more prepared hikers have nets that sit over their head ware but we missed the memo on this useful tip. The great Aussie wave comes into play as we bat away the pesky critters while try not to breath in too hard for fear of sucking in some unwanted flying protein.

The gorge gradually narrows until we can go no further. We have reached a refreshingly cool shaded place where a viewing platform with benches allows us to take a break and take in the majesty of this place. In front of us the “V” that forms the point at which the domes meet opens from a narrow base high into the sky. The sheer walls of the gorge now a shady ochre against the brightest of blue skies. When we we turn around the whole gorge opens up before us.

The cool break from the sun is a pleasant reprieve and a chance to restore some energy for the walk back to the car park. Now down hill most of the way the going is a little easier.

The time comes to drive back to the resort where we have booked in for a dot painting course. Dot paintings tell a story from an aerial point of view using symbols to represent people, places and animals as well as Dreamtime spirits. The Dreamtime spirits are inevitably represented by giant versions of animals, like the Rainbow Serpent, tell the story of the creation of Australia, coming down the centuries through storytelling and song lines. After we arrive back at the resort we gather at the meeting point where Evelyn our aboriginal teacher tells us about the basic symbols that she uses in her paintings. As previously mentioned the locals are extremely shy and Michael a white assistant interprets her softly spoken words into clearer English. Evelyn paints in the red sand with her finger the symbols for Artilla, Uluṟu and Kata Tjuṯa with her house there to give us an idea of where she comes from in relation to these rock formations. Our mission is to create our own story using the same symbols of wavy lines, dots and concentric circles. I draw an aerial view of our house and garden but I think I miss the mark. I should have drawn the city of Adelaide, Mt Lofty and our houses relation to those with symbols for water and forested areas etc. My painting is far too ambitious and I can’t control the dot size but I do end up with something fairly identifiable, at least by me. Barbie’s effort is much better with dot structure and a neat layout I couldn’t quite manage. Once completed we are called upon to tell our stories with a story telling stick, pointing at the symbols and explaining how they relate to our story. All good fun, glad I didn’t take it too seriously! We are able to take our artwork with us but mine is no masterpiece, I’ll stick to painting the walls thank you!

Our last event of the day is an exciting one indeed and a first for Mandy. We have booked a sunset helicopter flight that will take us around Uluṟu and Kata Tjuṯa as the sun descends on another day in the red centre. At the appointed time we walk the now well worn track to the Desert Gardens Hotel to wait for our shuttle to the Yulara airport. We are picked up by a young lady bus driver who looks like she just left high school. We soon find out that she is one of the helicopter pilots filling in as a bus driver after a day in the air with other like minded tourists. There is a shiny looking unmarked jet parked nearby when we arrive through the gates, the federal government’s conveyance for Mr. Anthony Albanese our prime minister who has arrived to give a speech in support of the referendum yes vote, the speech due to happen at sunrise tomorrow morning. We wait while our pilot driver closes the gates, she explains “to keep the camels out”. There are reportedly over 1 million camels roaming the desert out here, out numbering many of the indigenous animals, in fact out competing them for food and water. Our Helicopter pilots are waiting for us alongside their rides, Mandy, Barbie and I are greeted by Jake who tells all about the Bell 207 Jet-Ranger Helicopter we are about to ride in. It’s not long before we lift off in the direction of Kata Tjuṯa.

The 38 minute aerial tour of Kata Tjuṯa and Uluṟu is a stunning finale to our visit to the red centre of Australia. We have added greatly to our knowledge of aboriginal history and culture as well as the geography of the landscape that the Aṉangu consider a sacred place.

We are soon back at the Desert Gardens hotel and our room at the Emu Apartments before enjoying our last meal at the Mangata restaurant. Tomorrow we fly out via Sydney to Adelaide.