Friday 8th September
A brisk morning greets us this morning, the skies are grey, out on the river there is a stiff breeze. We hurriedly shower, dress and individuality make our way to breakfast, me leading the charge as I want to get top deck for the photos this morning. We have cruised through the night from Cologne, at about 8.30am we will pass Koblenz into a 30 kilometre zone that is known for its extreme beauty. The snaking Rhine river flows through steep sided valleys green with vineyards and natural vegetation. A mix of castles from long lost era’s stand guard over the landscape. Some mere ruins, some still breathing life as homes, tourist museums or hotels. After my quick breakfast, I rug up, and head towards the upper opened deck. We are cruising right down the centre of the Rhine at this point, the wind is brisk to say the least, continually changing direction as we follow the winding rivers course. The sun is still low in the sky giving little warmth as it struggles to break through the cloud. When it does the light thrown over the river is like polished copper rippled by the ships bow wave as it pushes the water gently outwards. I start to catch glimpses of the first castle and the camera starts clicking, trying to deal with the ever changing light conditions and the whipping wind. We float on through a fairyland of castles fit for a Rapunzel or even a Cinderella. Through green valleys of terraced vineyards and magical medieval buildings and homes. Our cruise director as set up the communications devices we all have and is running a commentary, Amanda joined me and is listening in while I am clicking away. The wind increases, the sun disappears behind the steep hills as we turn, those brave souls in short sleeves and shorts soon disappear, to appear later more appropriately dressed. The sun rises enough that the hills are no longer a competition, but the cloud cover increases, leaving only the suns ghostly image shining through. The stewards hand out hot chocolate laced with liquor to ward off the chill. Not wanting to partake of alcohol this early in the morning we stick it out but eventually, the time comes when the cold drives us inside for a hot beverage.
We sit inside in the lounge and watch the scenic towns one by one appear and disappear as we pass them by bound for Rudesheim. Rudesheim is famous, mostly for wine, Riesling to be exact, Riesling is planted as far as we can see and is the speciality grape for this region.
One after the other the colourful pristine medieval towns on either side of the river pass us by and we arrive at our destination. Here we are met by a blue and white train, not dissimilar to Thomas the tank engine, but on road wheels not a track and with a big Mercedes logo where Thomas’s smile would normally be. We board the train or rather the carriages and we trundle off to the centre of Rudesheim. Our chosen excursion today is The Niederwalddenkmal monument located in the Niederwald landscape park, accessible by a ten minute chairlift, overlooking the valley of the Rhine and was built in the 1870/80s to commemorate the Unification of Germany. The structure is massive at 38 meters tall or 135ft. With some trepidation we take the chair lift, the wind buffets us as we take off above the vineyards, forcing me to remove my hat in case it should blow away and float towards the Rhine their to float forever back downstream from whence we came.
Our tour guide is again informative, not only about this regions history but also its wine industry. One particular winter speciality is a coffee drink invented here, sugar cubes, soaked in brandy are set alight then topped with hot espresso coffee then topped again with whipped cream and chocolate flakes, sounds good to me. The drink can also be adjusted for summer just add ice cream instead of whipped cream and let it cool.
We take the chair lift/gondola back down to the town where we have a few moments to wander around, first stop the beautiful Christmas shop, full of locally made Christmas decorations, carved wooden figures that represent Christmas themes, plus the odd made in china one no doubt. Here we do buy a small Father Christmas that is actually an incense burner but the detail in the locally made figure is beautiful. We move on, working our way back to the meeting point. The cute little alley ways are now starting to fill with people, at every turn there is a hidden restaurant, tables set ready for dinner service. In the meantime people are enjoying wine tastings from small cups served from open windows or ice cream from the many flavours available at a nearby stall. We reach the meeting point just as the little train arrives to pick us up and take us back to the ship, all aboard the road train winds its way back down to the river and back to the River Duchess’s docking point.
We don’t have a lot of time once back on board to relax, the usual presentations for the following days events take place around 6.30pm in the lounge bar over cocktail hour. While Amanda settles in to read a little of her latest novel, I download the days pictures of which there are many for review.
We have had an invite to dinner in the covered area of the upper deck tonight, one of only twenty couples, the chef will prepare and cook all of the food for the meal in front of us in this space.
The cocktail time comes around pretty quick, dressed for dinner we make our way to the lounge. Tomorrow we are in Frankfurt, we have chosen a “do as the local do ” walking tour. The cruise director Bueunos from Budapest informs us of our options and the surrounding points of interest. We dock right in the city centre with all the city points of interest within a 15 minute radius. The bar service manager Maria from Romania informs us about the wines available for tonight’s dinner, then we are off to the restaurant venue. We are seated with two other couples who are seasoned travellers, retirees like us they spend a good deal of their time travelling. One couple are from Seattle in the US and the other from Perth, Australia. The Perth couple are on their third cruise this year and have one more to fit in before years end, now that’s traveling. The evening is an enjoyable one, the venue though not good the sound from the twenty guests all talking at once bounces of the steel and glass making it very hard for conversations. At one point smoke fills the room fortunately the canopy above, we discover is moveable as the crew slides it back to allow the smoke to vent. The meal is a set menu, first a long glass plate with four indentations, providing room for four different tastings, a tiny cup of soup, a prawn sitting in a garlic aioli, a twirled conical dob of salmon mousse and a fried cheese ball with cranberry sauce.
This is followed by a creamy wild mushroom risotto then the main course of beef strip rolled together with bacon moistened with mustard, to make a meat roulade. This accompanied by a double baked potato and carrots. The wines are from the local area, we had brought with us from the lounge bar a local Riesling, we had heard a lot about this regions riesling variety today and wanted to taste a drop out our earliest convenience, the wine we had served to us was very good, not wanting to leave a half full glass it came along. We tasted the Pinot Blanc, that was the recommended wine but was not to our liking, however to match the beef dish was the local red wine variety Dornfelder, this is a locally produced dark-skinned variety of grape. Created by August Herold at the grape breeding institute in Weinsberg in the Württemberg region in 1955. The wine was outstanding, full bodied akin to a Cabernet or Merlot but lighter in style than at home. Dornfelder wines are typically velvety textured, slightly floral, often show flavours of plums, blackberries or cherries, this one no exception.
Our table is the last to break up as the others had drifted off to the lounge for entertainment or to their beds. Finally though with the tables cleared around us we feel obliged to move on. We decide to make for our bed as we have an early morning tomorrow for our Frankfurt tour.