Month: September 2017

Monday 18th September

The sun god is with us this morning, miraculously the grey gloom of the past few days has completely disappeared, we are smiling, the day will be not just another great day but a sunny one too! We are booked on two tours to day, after breakfast we meet our guides at 9.30am for our city tour of Vienna, last night we experienced the city by night but now we can familiarise ourselves with Vienna in the daylight. Our couch tour takes us into the old city centre, originally a walled city. Franz Joseph the 1st pulled down the walls to expand the city creating the Ringstrabe of today. Literally a horseshoe ring around the city that contains enormous buildings and wide boulevards housing the opera house, theatres and all manner of cultural venues. We drive the wide busy boulevards, buildings and statues are pointed out along the way. A golden stature of Johann Strauss II sits in a park, Vienna, city of music, Mozart, Beethoven, Haydn & Brahms all lived and worked here, but where not born here unlike Strauss who was a true Viennese. Another statue this time of Empress Maria Theresa, a benevolent ruler who reigned for 40 years and survived the birth of sixteen children, twelve of who survived to adulthood whizzes by. At one point we could believe we are at a tennis match as we look left then right in rapid succession trying to take in the incoming sights and information. There is a whole quarter dedicated to museums, the modern art museum, the Leopold museum of modern art, contemporary art, architecture, design even a Children’s museum called Zoom.
The scale of the buildings is stupendous and their age always astounds, the style varying depending on the age of the building, Charles the VI from 1711-1740 was responsible for introducing the baroque style that includes the magnificent cathedral known as Karlskirche built in 1737 and the opera house built in 1861.

The style continued under Maria Theresa and her son Joseph for another fifty years. The ruling Hapsburg family loved to build, and build they did on a grand scale. Then came the Art Nouveau period with that include Majolica house and the Secession building with its cupola of golden laurel leaves.

There is even an observatory built in the middle of down town “Urania Sternwarte” built in 1910. Twenty percent of the city was damaged during World War Two, some 87000 homes destroyed, it is a remarkable rebuilding feat that we see today. We make our way into the centre of the city where we start the walking tour, really a visit to Prince Eugene of Savoy’s winter palace that is located in the inner district. All street names in Vienna are predicated with a number indicating the district you are in starting with one for the inner city and expanding out to twenty three in all.

The Palace completed in 1724 in the baroque style is much as it was then today. Maria Theresa purchased the building at auction then turned it over to the minister for finance for offices but they kept part as it was. For the first time we could take photos inside, the commentary was excellent and we were the only group making the tour very comfortable.

 

Back on the streets after the tour we have some free time to explore the city centre. This surrounds a wide shopping mall that stretches on and on with side streets going off in many different directions. Coffee houses and restaurants are everywhere the Viennese love a coffee, Sigmund Freud was from here and enjoyed contemplating his theory of psycho analysis over a good cup of Viennese coffee, (usually a strong black served in a glass topped with whipped cream), we are told. The sun god has stayed with us today, maybe to showcase this amazing city, a remarkable and welcome change from the last few days.

With the beautiful architecture surrounding the shopping precinct one has the feeling of grace, style & elegance. Well heeled shoppers are out in their droves while I press my nose up against the windows of watch makers I have only heard of in magazines. An elaborate marble fountain with gold topped carvings commemorating those who died in the Black Death plaque of 1679 has sat as a centre piece to the cobblestoned mall since 1693.

Our time up we reluctantly head back to our meeting place for our trip back to the ship. Our second tour, this time to Schonbrunn Palace leaves after lunch at 2.45pm.

After a hurried lunch we are once again onboard for this tour. By now we are starting to realise that the Hapsburg dynasty was unbelievably wealthy, after all they had ruled most of Europe for 600 years and where they didn’t rule outright they had ingratiated themselves into the aristocracy of other nations even Britain when Prince Phillip of Spain (a Hapsburg) married Henry the Eighth’s daughter Mary, who later became Queen Mary the first. The Palace of course is amazing over 1000 rooms all elaborately and unbelievably decorated, not that we saw them all of course, but so we are told. The ones we did see, words cannot express the sheer opulence on display. Remarkably this Palace was only the Hapsburg summer home, completely closed for the winter months. Of course we are unable to take photos and the rooms we do tour are packed with people but the commentary by our guide is good, if not a little hurried. The gardens too are magnificent, but we have so little time to explore that we are unable to stroll to the bottom of the garden where there is a much smaller baroque structure, just one kilometre away, yes one kilometre to your back fence, nice!

Weary we head back to the River Duchess about 45 minute away. No sooner have we boarded then we cast off for Budapest. Just before cocktail hour we stop, we presume to queue for another lock, as we have passed through some 68 locks on our journey so far. However during the cocktail hour presentation the captain is supposed to give a farewell speech, but he is detained, it seems that one of the ships engines has failed. Just before dinner the captain makes an apologetic appearance to advise the problem is solved just a dirty filter, his hands still dirty (he definitely is a hands on captain, we have seen him all over the ship sharing in basic duties) he tells us we will move on shortly, by the time we are seated for the gala dinner we are indeed making our way through a final lock and on our way to Budapest. We leave a brilliant sunset in our wake, birds wheel in the sky that lights up behind us as the flame orange embers of the sun reflect the last of its light into the bluey grey clouds on the horizon and are mirrored in river.

Tonight is the ships gala dinner night, the chef and kitchen staff have gone all out with a five course menu starting with creme brûlée of chicken livers foi gras, then cream of celery soup, followed by scallop and risotto with saffron, then filet of beef and shrimp with grilled vegetables and béarnaise sauce and finally a dessert of bombe Alaska with cherries. Wines are equally impressive, Austrian varieties we have never heard of both red and white. Our dining companions a rowdy group of four from San Diego, thankfully quiet tonight, weary after a long day and a long two weeks of tours, food and wine. Looking back on the day our only regret is that we have to leave this city, one day is not enough time for the enormity of experiences this city has to offer. Auf Wiedersehen Vienna!

 

Sunday 17th September

Sunday morning sees us floating down the Danube through the Wachau Valley in Austria, a beautifully scenic part of the world. Here terraced vineyards make their way up the hillsides as they have done for many centuries. The gloomy weather has stayed with us, light rain and grey skies, low cloud reaches fingers of mist down into the landscape, creeping along the valleys. The river reflects the grey above a steely ribbon snaking away in front of us. This area again is a region of legend, castles once mighty sit crumbling on hillsides, below them now prosperous little communities of cuckoo clock houses nestle beneath their green onion shaped church spires.

Today being Sunday, we are going to church, in fact an Abbey, with real monks.
The Abbey in question is Melk Abbey a huge structure, once a castle, then donated by some long gone prince who ran out of heirs and to the church to use as a monastery in 1059, then finally becoming an Abbey in the twelfth century. I asked myself what is the difference between a monastery and an Abbey, apparently an Abbey is just a grown up monastery. A monastery is a place where monks lead a monastic life, an Abbey has a leader an Abbot or Abbess and usually is occupied by a religious order e.g the Benedictine order, like the Melk Abbey. Here endeth the lesson.
We leave around 9.30am and drive through the extremely narrow streets of this little vineyard town Rossatz, back along stone walled lined roads with raised vineyards that follow the Danube, retracing our river steps by road. In about Thirty minutes we reach Melk and the Abbey, today the Abbey contains a museum and a secondary school, plus a famous old library. The surrounding gardens are formal with conical topiary and trees pruned so that their canopy forms umbrellas above your head. The ships umbrellas are put to good use as the rain comes down not heavily but steadily upon our heads. It is a guided tour, the Abbey is most famous for the museum of ancient religious relics, jewelled chalices and crosses, hand woven religious garb worn by bishops and abbots at ceremonial events. Bibles and books hand painted by the monks etc. etc. the scale of the place is huge, the decorations elaborate to say the least. Murals cover the ceilings not leaving a square centimetre/inch unpainted. Elaborate faux marble stone work is everywhere. We make our way around the exhibits mainly religious artefacts, there is even a version of a safe, one key opens fourteen brass barrel locks that secure a medieval document/valuables chest. We make our way out onto a viewing platform that over looks the surrounding area,

then into the library, a huge grand space stocked with books and apparently is well known as a repository for a huge store of medieval documents, again the elaborately mural painted ceilings. In an alcove sits an original atlas globe, the type that sits on a stand and you can spin around. Australia didn’t exist when this was decorated and California was an island. A similar globe sold for auction at Christies recently for EUR$240,000.00 or Aus$350,000 or US$256,000. The grand finale is the chapel attached to the abbey this is more akin to the the inside of a cathedral not as high and decorated in a baroque style that talks of extreme riches. Gold is everywhere, around the columns supporting the ceilings, statues and adornments above the altar. Not any part of the multiple arched ceilings is unpainted with a mural telling one religious story or another. The absolute wealth required to build this place would be astounding today, what did it cost then in 1702 when the building was rebuilt in the baroque style. How many lives where lost building it, how many people worked for nothing living in poverty to support it? I must say I am conflicted by the beauty and craftsmen ship, the sheer artistic value that is beyond doubt and value but the human cost in the name of a mystical superior being?

We exit via an ornate spiral staircase that if you look over the bannister, reflects the staircase above from a mirror below, the mirror tricking your eye into believing the staircase descends into infinity. Then through the obligatory gift shop and out into the gardens, we have about twenty minutes to look around, pathways lead to hidden viewing spots or into the woods.

Whimsical artworks are scattered around, like crows dressed as priests or knights.

There is a beautiful summer house at the bottom of the garden now tea rooms and small concert venue, again painted in the baroque style.

Our time comes to and end at the Melk Abbey, also famous for a book by Umberto Eco and movie that featured Shaun Connery “The Name of The Rose” a murder mystery I am told. We wind our way back to the ship for lunch then cast off for our next stop Tulln where we depart at 6.30pm for a trip into Vienna for a chamber concert.

Thankfully we have a little time to relax before the concert tonight in downtown Vienna, this end of the trip will be busy sightseeing and preparing to leave the ship in Budapest.
Time comes to depart, our two coaches are waiting for us and the other guests who decided to take in this experience. The rain has stopped but it is still cool, fortunately we don’t have to walk far before we are on our way into Vienna about an hour away. As we depart we can see the River Duchess leave too, she will sail down to her docking point on the Danube also downtown, there to spend the night.
When we are in the city we are shown the city by night, there are some pretty impressive buildings here all lit up, it will interesting to see them in the daylight tomorrow. We arrive at our concert venue, a private building that has a room acoustically perfect for chamber music, on our arrival we are given a program, then shown into the room. The room is almost covered in wood panelling, the high ceiling ornately decorated with carved wooden rosettes and intricate leaf patterns.
Carved figures support the balcony above that lines the three sides of the room above us looking down on the stage. The stage is set with the musicians chairs and sheet music stands, a large double base leans on its side to our right.

The musicians arrive, formally dressed, four young ladies, five young men and one older gentlemen. The ten piece chamber orchestra consists of a piano player, three violinists, three in woodwind section, a double base player, a cellist and a horn player. The music begins with a selection of Mozart. There are two small operatic performances by a young couple with superb voices, the rooms acoustics handling the sound wonderfully with no amplification. We are treated to a selection of Johann Strauss junior including two waltzes that are danced by two couples, the ladies with red dresses flowing and twirling as they move around the stage, the gentlemen heads held high backs arched, twirl effortlessly as the lead them. The music finishes with a rendition of “The Blue Danube” and why wouldn’t it this is where we are in Vienna, the cultural centre of Europe listening to classical music, truly a wonderful and magical experience.
Meanwhile the River Duchess has moved downstream to dock about fifteen minutes away along the river in downtown Vienna. We board the bus and return to her and our beds. Forecast for tomorrow is a sunny day let’s hope so.

Saturday 16th September
Sailing through the night we have again run into bad weather, the forecast is for cold and wet weather. This is precisely the situation that greets us in the morning. Now do we stay onboard or take a tour? While we are having breakfast the rain is pouring down, we are still on the move, the river a sea of movement as a billion raindrops rapidly form their little concentric circles all around us as they hit the water and dissipate only to be replaced by another.

Our arrival into Passau is delayed as the lock traffic is heavier than usual, our departing tours therefore delayed another 30 minutes until 10.00am.

As we wait the weather clears, the skies look almost as if the sunshine might poke through. We decide on a bus tour that involves as little walking out in the open as possible, hoping that if the skies open up again we will have some refuge in the bus. Passau is situated on and around two rivers, the Danube or Donau as the locals call it and the Inn. The old city is situated on a peninsula between the two rivers. With a fortress high on the hillside overlooking the Danube and a monastery high on the opposing hillside overlooking the Inn. We pass through one more lock before we reach our mooring position, right in the old downtown area. If there is a ship already docked at the mooring point, the captain just doubles up, other ships passengers have scrambled across our roof at various times in past moorings and now we do the same. Up the steps leading to our top deck and over a connecting bridge to the other ship and then down to our waiting coach.

The rain once again starts a light drizzle as we board the coach that then starts to climb up to the fortress. We drive out of the city, across a bridge that crosses the not so blue Danube and then winds its way up the hillside towards the castle. The Romans used the town, as they spread out across Europe, as they did with many towns as a fortress to secure their supply lines for their advancing armies. Their is no evidence here today of any buildings left behind by the Romans, the city having no less than eight fires over the centuries, each time wiping out the entire town. During medieval times though, whoever controlled the rivers, controlled the trade, if you controlled the trade you could tax it.

After the dark ages, it was an English monk who brought Christianity to Passau in 759 and started a monastery but the fortress known as Veste Oberhaus was built in 1219 by the Bishop-Prince that controlled the region around Passau.

We slow down as we reach a level patch of road where a clearing in the trees provides a magnificent view of the valley below and beyond.

Shortly after we arrive at the fortress and disembark in the drizzling rain then make our way towards a viewing platform that gives us a again more splendid views across the two rivers, the old town area and the monastery on the other side.

Currently the fortress is a youth hostel, a museum and a restaurant, one with amazingly picturesque views I might add. We re-board the bus, this time heading down hill, back across the Danube, through the narrow one way streets of the old city over another bridge and climb once again this time to the monastery. Again the views are spectacular, this monastery is an active monastery still conducting services, today there is a wedding about to start, the bride arrives while we are there and is quickly bundled out of the rain and into the attached church.

By now the rain is quite heavy, there are not many takers for the city walk part of the program that is due to follow. We are given the option of going back to the ship or getting off the bus at the town hall for a guided walk or walk at our own leisure or return to the ship. We opt to return to the ship, already cold and damp enough from our two brief excursions. As I have mentioned before all these river towns flood with remarkable regularity, the current level of the river is around 4.5meters but just a few years ago in 2013 it reached 13meters. Each time the inhabitants reconstruct and rebuild, this is a way of life that has carried on for centuries.

Once gaining access to our ship, by climbing back over the ship docked on our outside, we are greeted with the now familiar warm peach tea, delicious and instantly warming. Sailing time is 3.00pm, we relax with a coffee in the lounge while I wrestle with the internet to upload last nights blog.

In the lounge another group of bike riders are preparing for a 28 Kilometre ride, most are not young, and not what I would call in peak shape, in slippery wet conditions they can have it! We wish them safe journey and off they go to enjoy their own experiences.

On our way once more we have a spectacular view of the two rivers coming together around the old city, then we are once again floating. Not to long again and we pass through another lock, since we still have daylight we can observe the operation, from the raising of the rear barriers, to the draining of the lock and the opening of the front lock doors and subsequent lowering and departure to the next considerably lower river level.

This then signals the start of our cruise across the German, Austrian border and by tomorrow into the picturesque Wachau Valley, a deeply forested steep sided part of the Danube. Our last stop is to pickup the bikers who had gamely left early in the afternoon for their bike ride at the valley floor alongside the river.

As the light fades we cast off and float downstream towards our next destination, Rossatz. The river at this point of our journey is travelling down hill at approximately 12km per hour, this is as fast as the average river boat, making the floating analogy even more apt. Dinner hour is fast approaching, but first the evenings presentations of tomorrow’s events and of course that cocktail hour glass of wine. We need to finalise the rest of the trips events, make some decisions and book from now until we finally arrive in Budapest in just three days time. Each evening Mariya, the bar manager presents the evenings wines, she has a passion for wine and is well informed on the local products.

Presentation over we make our way to the dining room for the evening meal, we choose a table for two tonight, and make our dinner choices, both deciding on the prawn salad, pumpkin soup and broiled sole in a lemon sauce, topped of with ice cream, pistachio for me chocolate for her. Of course we try the wines an Austrian Chardonnay, that is barely recognisable as chardonnay and a German Pinot noir that is up there with the best I have tasted. All in all a great day, hard to believe we have crammed so much in. Tomorrow is a long day so it’s lights out on another day on the river.

Thursday 14th September
This morning we are docked at Nuremberg, the forecasted drizzling rain is continuing, the sky is dark grey, very uninviting. Outside our window sits a river boat from another continent the paddle Steamer Mississippi Queen, during the night did we make a wrong turn, to wake up on the wrong river?

 No, apparently a local floating restaurant. The bad weather is real, a forecast temperature of only 12c/54f. It is a grey day, for what in my mind is a grey city, the famous or infamous capital of the Nazi party, where many of their propaganda rallies where held in the 1930’s. Then later of course the scene of the war crime trials conducted by the allies at the conclusion of the conflict. 

We dress, warmly for our morning out and after breakfast board our coach for the city tour, with rain jackets zipped or buttoned up and umbrellas in our arms, not for insurance today they will most definitely have a use.

Tours were available that focused particularly on the Nazi regime, but we decided for the overview approach. We are still in the Main-Danube canal, and this is a berg city therefore the castle and medieval town is on a hill, in fact Nuremberg means just that castle on a rocky hill. The medieval part of the town still exists, its walls thick and foreboding have stood for centuries. Archeological evidence suggests a town was here since 850AD, but the first documented evidence is recorded in a edict signed by the then King to allow a noble man to marry a servant girl in 1050AD. No wonder, Germany was the place of faery tale legend. Of course in those day the vast part of Europe was just a series of small kingdoms, Germany didn’t exist until hundreds of years into the future. 

Before sea travel and the discovery of the new worlds, Nuremberg was well placed as a cross roads for trade from, north, east, south and west, all roads seem to lead here and the town prospered. Once sea travel was established, sea port towns became the place for merchants to be and so Nuremberg declined.

Our city tour takes us past the Nazi, headquarters and the site of the courts used for the Nuremberg trials, courts that are still in use today. Ninety one percent of the city was destroyed during the allied bombings, today the facades are restored where possible, with more modern structures behind them. Once through the walled city gates and up at the castle we disembark. The medieval city is built like a fortress, the outer wall contains a waterless moat the inner wall contains the castle and the city. If the enemy managed to breach the outer wall then they had to cross open ground, where cross bow slots stood at the base of the castle to pick off the invaders. If the invaders managed to swarm passed here they had to climb to the entrance gates that faced into a another courtyard and fortification that they would again be subject to arrows from above raining down on them. If they stormed the gates, breaking through the enormous doors they then had to pass through a stone tunnel about fifty meters long, the tunnel had large square holes built into it so that all manner of material could be dropped onto the remaining invaders from above, no boiling oil though apparently that was a myth. Needless to say the castle/city was never breached in a thousand years, except by again the allied bombers who of course had the advantage of aircraft. Much less of the inner city was destroyed but still enough that major restoration works still continue today. If the castles and palaces we have visited prior today where the places of princes and princesses then this must be the place of the Overlord. Built for strength and durability without too much fancy decoration.

 From here we can look over the walled city and beyond from above, a view dominated by red terracotta tiled gable roofs, dotted with copper church spires and domes.

From here we head back to the market square for some free time to wander around, the market square is setting up for a local craft market, the rain continues to pour down, not cats and dogs but more kittens and puppies but never the less business may not be that good this afternoon.

 Dominating the square is the Frauenkirche (“Church of Our Lady”) a church made of brick in 1352 and completed in 1362. The most notable feature of the church is the Männleinlaufen, a mechanical clock. The clock was installed in the church in 1506. The Holy Roman Emperor is shown seated with the prince-electors surrounding him. The clock mechanism is activated at midday, when a bell is rung to start the sequence and is followed by the trumpeters and drummer. Then there is a procession of the electors around the figure of the Holy Roman Emperor. 

The clock was installed to commemorate the Golden Bull of 1356, this was the basis of the constitution that stood for 400 years and so called after the golden seal used on the document that features the Holy Roman Emperor but no Bull!. We have to be back in the square by 12.00pm to see this work. It seems that since visiting the clock exhibition at the British museum the clocks we have seen are even more remarkable and fascinating. Another fascinating object in the square is a colourfully enamelled and gilded water fountain. Called the Schöner Brunnen it dates back to the 14th-century.

Picking a direction we move off to explore, the side streets leading off the square are full of fruit, vegetable and flower market stalls very colourful. Here you can buy artichoke flowers with their rich violet hued blossoms, put them in a vase and admire them, then cook and eat the hearts later. 

Our umbrellas are fully deployed as the rain continues to fall, I spot a women’s store full of colourful winter sweaters for a Amanda and in she goes successfully picking up a couple of German made tops that will help keep the cold away until we reach Singapore. It is soon time to head back to the square where there is now a food stall, selling the local equivalent of a sausage sizzle. This is local fare, lots of options are chalked up on a display board (in German). We buy the “three sausage in a bun”, only because we have had a heads up from the guide and we can see locals buying the same option. We add mustard that we pump from a container. Three small sausages lined up in a crusty role, the sausages are spicy and even more so with the american style mustard, a simple tasty meal for Euro $3.00. We share this, serviettes in one hand umbrellas in another, cameras in another plus handbags etc. a bit of a juggling act but we manage. 

Then to the gingerbread stall for a small heart shaped piece of gingerbread with the word “Oma” iced onto it “Grandma” this should throw the wolves off the scent.

We turn to look at the cathedral clock, just few minutes to go, the minutes turn into seconds and on queue the chime starts ringing, the drummer starts drumming, trumpeters start trumpeting and the little painted figures go round, finally a chime counts out the hours and at twelve stops. The whole process taking five minutes or so. We rendezvous with our guide and walk to our buses pleased to be out of the rain and looking forward to lunch onboard the River Duchess. 

We are soon back on board, greeted by a waiter with warm peach tea refreshing and warming at the same time. We head for lunch, the soup is gaining a fast reputation as the meal to have especially after a cold wet morning. Today the soup is a rich slightly spiced tomato, very good. Warmed up we take a break in our cabin, as the ship again moves off down the Main-Danube canal. During the afternoon we start the process of rising towards our highest elevation. The locks are phenomenal pieces of engineering, using gravity alone we are raised to our maximum elevation. The locks tower above us as we enter them, maybe three or four times the height of the ship itself.

We have returned to the lounge for a demonstration on how to make authentic apple strudel, the head chef runs through the recipe and process with his pastry chef. Then we enjoy one they have prepared and baked earlier with a little cream, delicious, the key ingredient is the rum they soak the raisins in. The chefs top tip, always try the ingredients before you cook, especially the rum. Bence our tour director gives us a précis on tomorrow’s events then as the lounge crowd dissipates we enjoy a glass of wine as the scenery changes to green rolling hills and farmland. Shortly after at 5.30pm we reach the highest elevation of the trip 413 Meters, this milestone is marked by a grey concrete modernistic monument on our right with a wide base that tapers up to a point. Then we begin our downward descent through another set of huge locks we start our run, no longer are we floating upstream but now downstream towards the Danube.

Tonight we decide to skip dinner, we really have to regulate what we eat, the food is a tsunami that is hard to keep at bay, as good as it is. A glass of the local Pinot noir and a cheese platter is all that we can manage tonight. Tomorrow we reach Regensberg and a new adventure.

Wednesday 13th September

We sailed over night to Bamberg, and it is here we wake up to a wet cold and windy day. We have docked in a siding that gives us just an industrial view on either side of the Main River. Expecting this downturn in the weather conditions we decided to stay aboard and have a quiet day, with weather permitting catch the shuttle service into town in the afternoon. The centre of town is a little more than walking distance hence the shuttle, the “berg” part of Bamberg interprets as hill in German, meaning the town is up the hill from the river. Last nights presentation didn’t really highlight any points of major interest, except that wine is again prominent, we decide to let the weather decide. The other “burg” in German town names interprets as fortress, now we know a little of what to expect with towns with these four letters in them. We spend the day relaxing and enjoying the quiet, almost deserted River Duchess. By lunch time though the touring passengers start to arrive back, it was as we thought cold and wet, with Bamberg being more of a modern town and less of a medieval one. The weather has not improved by lunch time, still dense rippling grey clouds hide the blue sky and the sun from our eyes, rain still falls intermittently. Inside the ship is warm and comfortable and has all we need, the choice is easy, we stay aboard. The cocktail hour rapidly approaches, we have some how joined an exclusive club and become Heritage members, apparently this status is granted to travellers that have sailed on more than one Uniworld cruise, this our first and so membership is a mystery to us but having had the honour bestowed on us we are happy to indulge in the associated privileges. As such an invitation was extended to us to join a cocktail party to be held in the lounge, concurrently with the cocktail hour. We have spent most of the day in the Blue Danube lounge but it is now time to depart and prepare for dinner, the cocktail hour/party and the presentation of tomorrow’s events. After tidying our selves for dinner we head back to the Blue Danube lounge for the cocktail do, we seek out a couple from Seattle sitting at the bow end of the ship, this end apparently is for Heritage club members of which we are one. We score champagne, although they have a South African merlot on offer that I decide to try. Striking up conversation with Nick and Danna, we discover that the party is all about the ships heads of departments mingling with us and checking to see if we are happy with the cruise so far. In other words a PR exercise, but it’s good to talk to the people that run the ship and give them our feedback, while gaining some insight into their lives aboard a river cruise ship. Bence our cruise manager updates on tomorrow’s tours of Nuremberg and we are set for dinner. We continue dinner with Nick & Danna, enjoying exchanging travellers tales, ours pale into insignificance though this couple have travelled far and wide. Most of Europe, China, North Africa, the Amazon, Tahiti the list goes on. Dinner tonight consists of crab cakes, choice of German onion soup or cream of carrot and ginger, rib eye steaks, with Yorkshire pudding and double baked potato or poached salmon trout. Uni World really do go all out with the food and service on their ships, if we are not keen on the nights menu then they will cook a alternative, if you don’t want to eat in the dining room they will bring the meal to your stateroom. Every night regional wines from the area we are traveling through are presented, tonight’s wines are a local blend of Cabernet Shiraz or Silvanner. Throughout the Rhine/Main valleys the districts appear to be one big vineyard. As we dine we pass through some impressively large locks, the first at least twice the height of the ship, we are engulfed in artificial darkness, surrounded by damp concrete walls, then slowly we rise up to the next level, like a giant elevator. We are leaving the Main River and entering the Main-Danube Canal constructed in 1990 to allow vessels to travel right across Germany to Austria, Hungary and into Eastern Europe by connecting to the Danube.

We finish off a delightful meal with a cheese selection then make our way to our cabins to once again recharge for tomorrows adventures.

Tuesday 12th September
After a few bumps in the night, we presume through traversing a lock or two, we awake to find ourselves docked in Kitzingen, from our stateroom window I can see a building with flood markings on the corner at least 3 meters high. I am definitely having the feeling that if you live here, up and down the Main river, occasional wet feet are a part of life you may have to put up with.

 

Our tour today takes us first to Weikersheim castle, after breakfast we depart by coach through the German countryside from Bavaria back into Baden-Württemberg. Weikersheim castle started off in the 12th century as a fortress but over the years/centuries the property became more a palace, the Germans have a few names that describe this type of building they refer to this one as a Schloss, this can translate to grand manor house. When we arrive we walk through the tiny town that sits outside the building, with its own market square and stone fountain. Modern statues sit around the square, a modern exhibition that apparently is changed periodically. 

We enter though an archway over cobbled stones into a large courtyard then into the building itself. 

This building is still very much in original condition, again very much in the Versailles style, especially when viewed from the back, with extensive gardens. Internally modern conveniences have had to be added over the years but the essential essence of a medieval manor house in the grand style is still there. Original oak floorings, furniture from mixed periods, fill the rooms with original doors, hand painted panel inserts of domestic and rural scenes adorn the walls and doors alike. Original tapestry works hang from the walls, an exquisite turquoise porcelain dinner service waits for guests on the dining table. The list goes on. In the hallways you can see the doors that open into the cast iron stoves that heat the rooms, unlike the larger bishop-princes palace where these were hidden in the walls, this was a more practical residence. Servants could load wood into the stoves directly from outside the rooms while the occupants enjoyed the warmth within. One fascinating object is a hand made fabric painted family tree, complete with birth and death dates and Coats of Arms going back eight generations. A very important part of life in those days was be able to prove your lineage, as a noble born if you fell on hard times this was all you had. Into the gardens, magnificently laid out, in a formal fashion with many statues. Opposing Fully glazed summer houses stand at the bottom of the garden, where no doubt many a garden party was enjoyed. Even the workers were represented in statues, however depicted as dwarfs while the gentlemen and ladies are depicted at full height, and the lord of the manor somewhat taller again. Statues of gods sit even higher, we notice Zeus complete with lightening bolts looking down over the garden. 

This place wasn’t affected by World War Two bombing and so is very much in authentic condition. Crossing over the Tauber river that is more of a creek really, another statue stands as if floating on the water, jets of water spray out from behind the near naked female bronze figure creating fairy wings, maybe Tinker Bell.

Our time over here we proceed by coach again to Rothenburg ob de Tauber, this town has within it the original town that was and still is an original walled city. Our weather forecast for today was not good, we are expecting the worst, Amanda has brought along an umbrella as insurance, so far it seems to be working. The morning is pleasant if a little on the cool side. When we arrive we disembark outside the inner cities outer walls. We can see two of the stone watch towers as they sit above the town walls that surround this part of the town. This site too, was spared World War Two bombing, apparently because a US commander’s mother had paintings of the town hanging in her house from her visits here. Knowing of the towns historic importance he halted bombing of this town. We enter through the outer gate and into the city/town itself, this is not just a few streets of gingerbread houses and candy coloured buildings this is a whole city. Walt Disney must have come here for sure, where else could one be inspired to create a fairy fantasy world, of princes and princesses, white swans, castles and magic. We pass by Giuseppe’s house, I know this because Pinocchio is looking out the window. There is only one ride here, unlike Disneyland’s many, a trip back in time. Hang on as you fall through the centuries back 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 hundred years landing on a cobbled stone courtyard that forms a grand marketplace, the clip clopping of horses echoing around the square as the clock tower strikes 12.00 O’clock, its bells chiming out around the town, windows open to watch as two figures appear at the windows either side of the clock where two figures raise a tankard, one a conquering Count Tilly who laid siege to the city in 1631 and one the local Mayor Nusch. The story goes that the Count was unable to drink a stone jar full of the local wine, and put out a challenge to the locals that if anyone of them could drink the jar of wine, some 3.25 litres in one draught he would not raise the city. The Mayor, Nusch volunteered and downed the draught in ten minutes, saving his fellow councillors from execution and the town. Every year this is now celebrated with a festival of wine drinking.

The clip clopping of horses hooves is still ringing in my ears, but it’s only Zorro a local dressed as Zorro complete with mask and fake horse, his shoes making the clip clopping sound passing by, trailing a miniature Dachshund. Zorro is the only fake here though all around is unbelievably real. The town is famous for the Christmas shop here, that is large but operated by the same company we visited a few days ago where we made a purchase. Teddy bear shops, Steif bears are famous here. Cuckoo clocks of course are everywhere, chocolate and a local specialty pastry that is noodle shaped pieces of pastry dough that are wound into a ball about 10cm/4″ round then baked and covered, originally in icing sugar, forming a “snowball” or “Schneeballen” today they are covered with chocolate or multi coloured icing. About 3000 people still live within the city walls and are required to maintain their residences in original condition. Since 2.5 million people visit here each year tourism is their greatest asset. Time for lunch and we adjourn to a local restaurant that upon entering has low ceilings with dark walls hung with deer heads, complete with antlers. The feeling is definitely medieval, at the back light is pouring in from skylights above a medieval courtyard with arches inscribed with the date 1652. Tables are set all through the rooms and out into the skylight lit courtyard, we grab a table with an English lady doing this tour in her own today. The meal is all German, a white cabbage leaf, stuffed with mince pork, a fairly normal looking BBQ’d sausage sitting atop a pile of sauerkraut, and along side a cold potato salad. Well when in Rome! We finish our meal and move off back out into the streets to investigate more of the town as time has a way of disappearing quickly. We stop back at the market square to watch the clock strike 3.00pm then, although we hadn’t realised it the town is perched on a hill, we find our way down to one of the city walls that overlooks a valley, beautiful. Eventually we find our way back down the cobbled streets towards the lower part of the town, a light rain has begun to fall, requiring the brief use of our insurance policy.

 Then eventually out of the city walls to our waiting coaches in the car park. Today’s tour has taken us in and out of Bavaria several times as our tour guide keeps reminding us, he is a tall American from Bristol in Pennsylvania. He came to Germany with the airforce and stayed, he is outlandishly dressed, in a green and black jacket with indescribable swirling patterns all over it, bright leprechaun green pants and multicoloured leather boots that are also predominantly green. Add to this shoulder length fluffy white hair, if he had worn a green conical hat with a bell on it and spoken with an Irish accent it would be no surprise, except for his height. He did though have an amazing knowledge of the area and the German language speaking more than one dialect.

A forty five minute drive and we are at our rendezvous point with the ship at Schweinfurt some 45 kilometres away, just one problem the ship isn’t there to greet us. Apparently the Main river was busy along this stretch, the constant queuing for lock access would make for a boring day if you where the captain. 

About forty five minutes later the ship arrives and we all board, anxious for the cocktail hour and glass of warming wine. We decide to skip dinner in the dining room tonight, after the usual presentation of tomorrow’s activities and that glass of wine we take a snack in our room and call it an early night. The ship sets sail and other guests party into the night listening to the entertainment in the lounge. While we catch-up on some world news and look forward to a quiet day on board tomorrow, the forecast for more cool weather and 60% chance of rain.

Monday 11th September
When we awake this morning we are gliding into Wurzburg, Bavaria, a much bigger city than Wertheim of about 130,000 people. A city of spires, domes, minarets and steeples. This is a very old medieval city, origins that go back into the mists of time. Christianity was brought to these parts by the Irish in 686, three monks a long way from home brought the word and are still revered today. The wine industry goes even further back to 500BC, there is evidence suggesting that the people from this area traded wine with the Greeks. Much, much later the city suffered heavily in the bombing raids by the British close to the end of the Second World War. 

The river is calm but adjacent to us waters spill over a rocky ledge that runs along the rivers edge for some distance. A big advantage of the river boat system is the ability to dock right in the centre of town, it takes but just a short walk from the docking berth and you are right at the heart of the city. No ocean liners can reach this deep inland, cruising a river is a completely different experience. Outside our window the sky shows splashes of blue but dark clouds are not far away. The temperature today will remain cool, maybe 16, 17c-62, 64f. 

After breakfast in the ships restaurant, we prepare ourselves for the day ahead. First a tour of the Bishop-Princes residence, a short coach ride to a huge palatial building almost the size of Versailles in France. Apparently his previous residence didn’t stack up for an important man such as his station commanded. The first corner stone was laid in 1720 but the “Residence” wasn’t Completed until 1781, by which time the Bishop-Prince who started the construction was long gone. Prince-Bishops started in Roman times when a secular leader was appointed instead of a roman commander, the Prince-Bishops then made all the regional decisions, but were answerable directly to the emperor. The interior designs are phenomenally over the top, baroque style, using only the best materials and artisans they could find from all over Europe. 

The entry way has two huge doors so that your horse drawn carriage could enter, drop you off at the base of the huge staircase and then exit the other door in a u-turn, all under cover. Once on the staircase you proceed slowly as the steps are designed in such a way as to slow you down and mount the staircase in a elegant fashion. As you look up you see the largest fresco ever painted, on the ceiling above, showing the world view as they believed it, Franconia as it was then saw themselves as the natural inheritors of the Roman Empire, the seat of all learning, arts, mathematics and power. The rest of the world is depicted as a savage place, Africa, the Americas and Asia. Australia just didn’t get a Guernsey in those days. Just the painting of this fresco alone took two years to complete, then there was extensive plaster work and marble sculpture, all this and we haven’t even moved passed the foyer. Then comes the waiting room where you might enjoy a glass of the local Riesling, all elaborately decorated beyond belief. Next the reception room where the Bishop-Prince would receive you, or the emperor if he was in town. But yes there is more, a mirrored room, made entirely of mirrors all hand painted in exquisite detail. Remarkable in that all the mirrors shattered in the bombings and had to be painstakingly reconstructed, talk about seven years bad luck. In total the residence has 400 rooms, hidden corridors allow servants to move around unseen with firewood to stoke the massive ornate cast iron stoves that openings face inwards towards the wall cavity, ingenious. Napoleon Bonaparte stayed here three times and so did Queen Victoria and Consort Albert but just the once. 

Finally though the building met a sticky end when the British bombed Wurzburg, destroying a good part of the buildings internal structure, fortunately they missed the roof at the front of the building and the frescos where saved. The building is now rebuilt but still undergoing internal renovation.

Then there are the gardens, we would have loved to spend more time looking around them, but guided tours wait for no man or woman. 

We move on by foot to the market square for a brief orientation of the town centre then we are set free to do our own thing for the rest of the afternoon. The skies look threatening one moment, then are sunny the next, the locals tell us summer is over, fall is on its way. We stop for coffee and a German sandwich of olive ciabatta, filled with cheese, sliced tomato and spicy salami. Then move on intermittently shopping for some essentials and sightseeing, a light sprinkle of rain sends us into a shop. Then sunny again we move on, then while in another shop a downpour, then clear blue skies above and we can move on for more sightseeing.

 Many of the buildings here where flattened a huge cultural shock to the country, but those that could be are returned to former glory. A medieval picture of the town I found showed how the town looked at that time, before the town was named even Wurzburg the towers and spires built then are still very evident today. The town is surrounded by vineyards that run down into the Rhine valley, even the castle, known as the Marienberg fortress, sitting high in the hilltop over looking the town is complete with its own almost vertical vineyard. 

Before we leave the town we take a quick walk partly over the bridge that leads to the fortress, erected in 1473 to replace a Roman bridge, the bridge is well known for the statues of saints or important people in the history of Würzburg such as the statue of Saint Nepomuk or the one of Saint Fredericus reminiscent of the Renaissance period. You can also see the statue of Charlemagne who was crowned Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire of the German Nation in the year 800. The statues of the three Irish saints that brought Christianity to Wurzburg, Kilian, Kolonat and Totnan are also evident. An unusual local phenomena takes place on the bridge, there is a small wine seller at the bridges starting point, locals buy a glass of wine then proceed to promenade across the bridge, stopping here and there to sip and take in the river view upstream and downstream. Also here are lovers padlocks locked onto whatever can be locked onto indicating a lovers pact, fortunately there is not a lot of space for this, as I think it detracts from the ancient craftsman ship of the stone bridge and sculpture work. 

From here we descend the stone stairs to the river level with Mike, a fellow traveller who we had coincidentally met on the bridge, to make our way back to the River Duchess where she is berthed just a short distance away. Back at the ship and the end of the afternoon we are quite pleased, we have picked up some warmer clothes to cope with the cooling weather conditions in this part of the world, it is still a couple of weeks before we fly to Singapore where the shorts should make a come back.

A quick break and the cocktail hour is upon us along with our presentation of tomorrow’s events. Then to dinner, tonight’s fare is hors D’oeuvres, a tiny plate of anti pasta, vineyard escargot, Sauerkraut soup, and salmon. Amanda has the chef make her a grilled chicken Caesar salad, that they are more than willing to do and very well pleased she is with the result. The wines are nothing we recognise, local of varieties, a Silvaner white wine and Zweigelt red wine. Both interesting to try but not really to our taste. 

Another early start tomorrow, so well satisfied we make for our beds, we sail late tonight around midnight, no doubt to encounter more locks through the night as we move ever close to the Danube where we switch from upstream to downstream. 

Sunday 10th September
The morning that greets us today is beautiful, we have docked in the early hours at a small hamlet called Ferudenberg, when we draw back the drapes it is to shimmering sunlight on a calm river, reflecting puffy white clouds from the sky above. 

Below a bridge behind us two white swans swim lazily towards the ship, to check us out. The sounds of silence are all there is to hear when we open the balcony doors, just peaceful serenity. Behind the bridge sits a hillside of pointed pines dotted with deciduous trees just starting their seasonal colour change. In the midst of this a round castle turret flies two flags, further up the hill another square taller turret, part of the same castle built from local red stone, stands watch over the river below. In front of us the morning sunlight shimmers off the water leading the eye towards a river bend. A three quarter moon sits clear and bright in the blue sky above, the wind has dropped off from yesterday leaving a brisk but calm morning. 

We have stopped to pass through a lock just around the next bend, taking the opportunity for some braves souls to disembark with bicycles to take a bike ride to Wertheim our final stop for the day but still a few hours away. Around the bend we pass through the Lock, a fascinating experience, the gate opens, we glide in with less than a meter/3′ and 3″ on either side. The Lock gates close behind us, ahead of us the lock begins to fill with foaming water, as the water pours in the ship is raised almost imperceptibly higher and higher until we are all raised above the lock wall. The gates ahead of us open and we sail out into a channel that takes us through to another part of the Main river. 

We continue to float on serenely, hamlets and castle ruins pass us by, church bells ring in the distance calling the faithful to prayer. Sunday morning on the river peaceful, serene. Somewhere a German version of Mr Toad and Ratty are sunning themselves in tiny deck chairs on the riverbank, while Badger and Mole are napping underground after Sunday lunch. The landscape is engulfing me, time to wake up stop dreaming as we pull into Wertheim for our next scheduled tour. 

The dream continues, brightly coloured ginger bread buildings dating back to the 1500’s surround us as we walk into the market square under a low archway that once was tall enough for a horse carriage to fit through. Is this Alice in Wonderland territory or should I wait for the newspaper taxis to appear at the shore. The plasticine porters with kaleidoscope eyes are looking at me, is your audio device working sir? Ok let’s begin the tour.

This Rhine town floods a lot, so much so that doorways are covered with markings indicating the levels the flood waters have risen to, going back to the 1500’s. The archway we entered the market square by is only low because the river silt from flooding kept raising the street level until it is what it is today. The market square is full of pop up stalls, selling beer, wine and food, the Germans love a festival if there isn’t one then they create one. The cobbled stone market square is ringed by buildings that originally held all the guilds of the town, the coffee shop is still a coffee shop after 300 years, the bakers are thirteenth generation bakers. The town has a centuries old glass blowing tradition although we couldn’t see any of this today. 

This was a Protestant town with Catholics on the other side of the river in Bavaria there were often disagreements. Churches here date back to the fourteenth century, the castle that overlooks the town from upon high originates from the Twelfth century. 

Our brief tour of this magical town comes to an end, we return to our meeting place to catch buses for a walk in the woods, now we are back in faery land, or more precisely Hansel and Gretel territory, there are wolves in those woods we are told, I grab hold of grandma, you have to look after grandmas around these parts. A short bus ride over the bridge that fords the Main river here, also acts as the border between Baden-Wuerttemberg and Bavaria then we arrive high in the hills over looking Wertheim. We reach our destination a dense forest that we are encouraged to enter, we walk along a gravel path, little creatures scurry away from us as we approach, is Mr. Wolf glaring at us with red hungry eyes from behind a nearby tree, eyeing off the grandmas in the group? We walk on finally emerging from the forest, following hand dressed moss covered dry stone walls made from the same local red stone, that stretches for hundreds of meters, part of a terracing project that goes back hundreds of years. The remains of old orchards rise above us and are visible below, In places we can now see the vineyards rising almost vertically above the stone wall in front of us. 

We keep walking leaving the forest behind, eventually coming upon a little bit if suburbia that leads us to a winery where we are to experience some local wines and eat some local pretzels. Usually I would think beer with pretzels but today wine will be the drink of choice. The vineyard is apparently a working one, specialising in hand crafted wines, made from hand picked grapes that grow high in these terraced vineyards that no machine could ever pick. We take our seats in a modern covered open structure opposite a very old barn now housing a couple of stainless steel fermentation tanks. The vigneron introduces himself, his family has made wine in this district for many generations, he invites us to try some of the wines. We are given one empty average size wine glass each, the first wine poured is a large helping of sparkling Prosecco. Next we meet the baker from the town, his family has baked here for thirteen generations, he is a humorous man to say the least, and begins to tell us the story of how pretzels are made. He introduces us to his son a nine year old, who demonstrates how pretzels are rolled from the base dough then twisted and folded to form the pretzel shape, after this a volunteer guest is invited to make one. He then opens up the floor to questions and so through a question and answer process we learn in a very humorous way all about the origins and making of pretzels. The baker is a natural comedian, with great timing, if you ask a question or answer one correctly your prize is a pretzel. The vintner jumps in occasionally to describe the next wine, each time a full glass is poured as we go through a Pinot Blanc then a Riesling then a red wine similar to a Pinot noir. All the time the dialogue between the vintner and baker is hilariously funny. This was no tasting every one agrees, more like a comic relief show with drinking. We switch to sharing a glass to try and slow down the intake a little. The afternoon speeds by the suns appearance is a welcome addition to the day, with the 45 minute walk here we are all certainly warmed up.

From here we return to the River Duchess and our pending presentation followed by dinner. Tonight our choices are an egg salad or a pot pie appetiser, the pot pie served in a small glass container. A soup, followed by sliced veal shank or breaded ocean trout, both served with carrots and broccoli. We opt for cheese to finish as the red wine being served tonight is worth continuing on with. Another Dornfelder red, light almost of a Pinot noir quality but a little more body, but very easy drinking, that just leaves you wanting more. Mike and a Pauline again join us for dinner tonight, between us we enjoy all the dishes although I must say my trout was still swimming on the plate, in just a little bit too much olive oil for my liking.

Once again the tables are cleared around us and we need to depart for our beds as tomorrow tours start at 9.00am.

Saturday 9th September
The River Duchess docks in Frankfurt early this morning, after traveling east since leaving Rudesheim, a distance of 196 kilometres, we have set our alarm as the tours start at 9.00am. Outside it is still dark as even the dawn seems reluctant to start the day. Through the rain spattered windows we can see from reflected light that it is wet, the asphalt walkways that line the Main river at this point are shiny with moisture. During the night we left the Rhine River and connected to the Main river, that will connect us to the Danube in the coming days. As dawn finally breaks we can see that it is not going to be a pleasant day to be walking around today. Ever hopeful we dress and go to breakfast, we have docked in downtown Frankfurt this part of the river is a linear park, trees and lawn line the pathways along the river banks, there is a lot of movement in the trees indicating a substantial breeze. The rain continues to fall, we decide not to partake in a tour today, if the weather improves by the afternoon we can walk to some points of interest not far away. We have visited Frankfurt before, really another big city so we don’t feel, as if we are missing much. Our cruise director Bence informs us that the locals are calling the city “Mainhatten” as the ever increasing skyline is looking more and more like New York.

A little about the River Duchess, these river boats are long 361ft/110 meters and thin 37.5ft/11.43 meters wide. This one carries at maximum 130 passengers, there are 109 on this cruise and a crew of 42. Bence informed us of the nationality make up last night, 55 Americans, 43 Australians, 8 Canadians, 2 Brits and 1 Swede. Built in 2003 to expand Uniworlds fleet of vessels she was refitted in 2012. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are all served in the large dining room at the rear of the vessel in one sitting, breakfast is a combination buffet and table service, while lunch is a buffet and dinner a complete table service. The decor is opulent, I think French, marble floors, rich patterned carpets in the staterooms, French style furniture giving the feel of a floating palace. Our stateroom has gold padded embroidered walls, with matching curtains and bedspread. Tiny but compact with everything you need and every space utilised to maximum advantage.

 The bar lounge at the front is big enough to seat all the guests, has a small centre stage and piano. Plus of course a large very well stocked bar.

From here we sail again through the night and tomorrow morning south to Wertheim under apparently some extremely low bridges. The ship has to be prepared ahead of time, by lowering any protruding devices, antenna, radar even upper deck furniture has to be removed as apparently the clearance is only a hands breadth, going to be interesting. 

Cocktail hour approaches and we make our way to the lounge, the Rudesheim Riesling we enjoyed last night is the featured wine tonight another glass seems like a good idea. 

The day has brightened towards the evening, still cool but the rain has disappeared for now. The evenings presentation begins as we cast off and begin our journey, now south towards Wertheim. After a relaxing day we have decided to eat in our room tonight, trying to take a break from the onslaught of delicious food and catch up on some news. Dramatic skies lay ahead of us, the sun slowly sinking in our west creates reflected light patterns in the sky and on the river to our north and south of us. The river burbles away beneath us, the only sound a watery blop ka blop, blop, ka blop the sound that glassy waves make as they bounce against a ships hull. 

We pass through a lock, the concrete walls of which are so close as we pass through that you can literally touch them, although we have definitely had strict instructions not to open the stateroom doors and try.

We rise to the next level and move on further towards our next destination as the night closes in.