Tuesday 12th September
After a few bumps in the night, we presume through traversing a lock or two, we awake to find ourselves docked in Kitzingen, from our stateroom window I can see a building with flood markings on the corner at least 3 meters high. I am definitely having the feeling that if you live here, up and down the Main river, occasional wet feet are a part of life you may have to put up with.
Our tour today takes us first to Weikersheim castle, after breakfast we depart by coach through the German countryside from Bavaria back into Baden-Württemberg. Weikersheim castle started off in the 12th century as a fortress but over the years/centuries the property became more a palace, the Germans have a few names that describe this type of building they refer to this one as a Schloss, this can translate to grand manor house. When we arrive we walk through the tiny town that sits outside the building, with its own market square and stone fountain. Modern statues sit around the square, a modern exhibition that apparently is changed periodically.
We enter though an archway over cobbled stones into a large courtyard then into the building itself.
This building is still very much in original condition, again very much in the Versailles style, especially when viewed from the back, with extensive gardens. Internally modern conveniences have had to be added over the years but the essential essence of a medieval manor house in the grand style is still there. Original oak floorings, furniture from mixed periods, fill the rooms with original doors, hand painted panel inserts of domestic and rural scenes adorn the walls and doors alike. Original tapestry works hang from the walls, an exquisite turquoise porcelain dinner service waits for guests on the dining table. The list goes on. In the hallways you can see the doors that open into the cast iron stoves that heat the rooms, unlike the larger bishop-princes palace where these were hidden in the walls, this was a more practical residence. Servants could load wood into the stoves directly from outside the rooms while the occupants enjoyed the warmth within. One fascinating object is a hand made fabric painted family tree, complete with birth and death dates and Coats of Arms going back eight generations. A very important part of life in those days was be able to prove your lineage, as a noble born if you fell on hard times this was all you had. Into the gardens, magnificently laid out, in a formal fashion with many statues. Opposing Fully glazed summer houses stand at the bottom of the garden, where no doubt many a garden party was enjoyed. Even the workers were represented in statues, however depicted as dwarfs while the gentlemen and ladies are depicted at full height, and the lord of the manor somewhat taller again. Statues of gods sit even higher, we notice Zeus complete with lightening bolts looking down over the garden.
This place wasn’t affected by World War Two bombing and so is very much in authentic condition. Crossing over the Tauber river that is more of a creek really, another statue stands as if floating on the water, jets of water spray out from behind the near naked female bronze figure creating fairy wings, maybe Tinker Bell.
Our time over here we proceed by coach again to Rothenburg ob de Tauber, this town has within it the original town that was and still is an original walled city. Our weather forecast for today was not good, we are expecting the worst, Amanda has brought along an umbrella as insurance, so far it seems to be working. The morning is pleasant if a little on the cool side. When we arrive we disembark outside the inner cities outer walls. We can see two of the stone watch towers as they sit above the town walls that surround this part of the town. This site too, was spared World War Two bombing, apparently because a US commander’s mother had paintings of the town hanging in her house from her visits here. Knowing of the towns historic importance he halted bombing of this town. We enter through the outer gate and into the city/town itself, this is not just a few streets of gingerbread houses and candy coloured buildings this is a whole city. Walt Disney must have come here for sure, where else could one be inspired to create a fairy fantasy world, of princes and princesses, white swans, castles and magic. We pass by Giuseppe’s house, I know this because Pinocchio is looking out the window. There is only one ride here, unlike Disneyland’s many, a trip back in time. Hang on as you fall through the centuries back 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 hundred years landing on a cobbled stone courtyard that forms a grand marketplace, the clip clopping of horses echoing around the square as the clock tower strikes 12.00 O’clock, its bells chiming out around the town, windows open to watch as two figures appear at the windows either side of the clock where two figures raise a tankard, one a conquering Count Tilly who laid siege to the city in 1631 and one the local Mayor Nusch. The story goes that the Count was unable to drink a stone jar full of the local wine, and put out a challenge to the locals that if anyone of them could drink the jar of wine, some 3.25 litres in one draught he would not raise the city. The Mayor, Nusch volunteered and downed the draught in ten minutes, saving his fellow councillors from execution and the town. Every year this is now celebrated with a festival of wine drinking.
The clip clopping of horses hooves is still ringing in my ears, but it’s only Zorro a local dressed as Zorro complete with mask and fake horse, his shoes making the clip clopping sound passing by, trailing a miniature Dachshund. Zorro is the only fake here though all around is unbelievably real. The town is famous for the Christmas shop here, that is large but operated by the same company we visited a few days ago where we made a purchase. Teddy bear shops, Steif bears are famous here. Cuckoo clocks of course are everywhere, chocolate and a local specialty pastry that is noodle shaped pieces of pastry dough that are wound into a ball about 10cm/4″ round then baked and covered, originally in icing sugar, forming a “snowball” or “Schneeballen” today they are covered with chocolate or multi coloured icing. About 3000 people still live within the city walls and are required to maintain their residences in original condition. Since 2.5 million people visit here each year tourism is their greatest asset. Time for lunch and we adjourn to a local restaurant that upon entering has low ceilings with dark walls hung with deer heads, complete with antlers. The feeling is definitely medieval, at the back light is pouring in from skylights above a medieval courtyard with arches inscribed with the date 1652. Tables are set all through the rooms and out into the skylight lit courtyard, we grab a table with an English lady doing this tour in her own today. The meal is all German, a white cabbage leaf, stuffed with mince pork, a fairly normal looking BBQ’d sausage sitting atop a pile of sauerkraut, and along side a cold potato salad. Well when in Rome! We finish our meal and move off back out into the streets to investigate more of the town as time has a way of disappearing quickly. We stop back at the market square to watch the clock strike 3.00pm then, although we hadn’t realised it the town is perched on a hill, we find our way down to one of the city walls that overlooks a valley, beautiful. Eventually we find our way back down the cobbled streets towards the lower part of the town, a light rain has begun to fall, requiring the brief use of our insurance policy.
Then eventually out of the city walls to our waiting coaches in the car park. Today’s tour has taken us in and out of Bavaria several times as our tour guide keeps reminding us, he is a tall American from Bristol in Pennsylvania. He came to Germany with the airforce and stayed, he is outlandishly dressed, in a green and black jacket with indescribable swirling patterns all over it, bright leprechaun green pants and multicoloured leather boots that are also predominantly green. Add to this shoulder length fluffy white hair, if he had worn a green conical hat with a bell on it and spoken with an Irish accent it would be no surprise, except for his height. He did though have an amazing knowledge of the area and the German language speaking more than one dialect.
A forty five minute drive and we are at our rendezvous point with the ship at Schweinfurt some 45 kilometres away, just one problem the ship isn’t there to greet us. Apparently the Main river was busy along this stretch, the constant queuing for lock access would make for a boring day if you where the captain.
About forty five minutes later the ship arrives and we all board, anxious for the cocktail hour and glass of warming wine. We decide to skip dinner in the dining room tonight, after the usual presentation of tomorrow’s activities and that glass of wine we take a snack in our room and call it an early night. The ship sets sail and other guests party into the night listening to the entertainment in the lounge. While we catch-up on some world news and look forward to a quiet day on board tomorrow, the forecast for more cool weather and 60% chance of rain.