Month: July 2017

Wednesday 19th July
After a big day yesterday time to chill out, we rise late, it’s Matthews last day on Maui, and he wants to do some last minute shopping at the outlet mall in Lahaina. After breakfast we take that now well worn road to browse these shops again, Matt is successful in finding some more extreme bargains but you can only fit so much in your luggage, can’t you.
Back at the hotel, Amanda’s brother Jimmy, wife Susan and daughter have moved in, the first of the clan to gather at our place for drinks this afternoon.

As the afternoon wears on, Amanda’s sister Sandi arrives then Kate and husband Jim arrive and then brother Gary with new partner Tracey. This is such a memorable occasion with Amanda being able to spend so much time with her siblings.
At the end of the afternoon we go our seperate ways for awhile to reconvene at Fleetwood’s restaurant for dinner tonight.
We had such a good night at Fleetwood’s with Matt on his birthday and on our previous visit last year that we had no problems in recommending the venue for dinner tonight. Of course Fleetwood’s has a good reputation as the hip place to dine in Lahaina as well. Not tonight though, they are way off song and out of tune. Usually there is live music but this is cancelled as the band calls in sick. Not really an issue as we had asked for the quietest table in the room so that we could all at least talk to each other. In fact the second floor was extremely quiet with most patrons heading upstairs to the rooftop where we ate with Matt. We had tried to book the rooftop but due to the size of our party were declined. In addition to our group of three, Amanda’s sibs and partners, Sandi’s son and wedding photographer Kaua with very pregnant wife Tania and son Cayman came along with also Susan’s and Jimmy’s Gabrielle. 
All started well with drinks ordered and served quickly, then menus discussed and meals ordered. Some of the party ordered simple salads that came out in a reasonably timely fashion, but then a big wait for main courses (entrees). After several prompts the meals were served close to 10.00pm. Those who ordered meat dishes found them tepid, vegetables accompanying the dishes also tepid apart from the fingerling potatoes that were obviously added last to plates left cooling on a bench somewhere. The worst of the dishes was the most expensive the beef Wellington served with lobster and shrimp was inedible due to the time the dish was left out. Leaving Jimmy and Susan very disappointed. Meanwhile we had consumed more than a little wine, I order a bottle of merlot to accompany the meal and it is served chilled. I send it back, they search for another bottle but it seems they have no wine other than house wine from the bar that is not chilled, weird to say the least. 

Amanda’s brother registers a complaint to the server and we are attended by we presume a person of responsibility, he listens to the complaint and scurries away not returning with a explanation just instructing the staff to discount our bill.

All in all a very disappointing experience to end the day, certainly way below the standards we have come expect of Lahaina restaurants of which there are many and varied. 

We depart later than we wanted to, to go our own seperate ways back to our hotels, some saying good bye for this trip and some for now. Amanda Matt & I return through the night to our hotel and our beds, early rise tomorrow to take Matt to the airport for his flight back to Adelaide.

Tuesday 18th July
We awake to a perfect Maui day, the clouds have contracted back to their mountain tops. The sea is turquoise blue and the palm trees are once again waving a good morning welcome. The big day for Troy and Heather is here at last and in Aussie terms it’s gong to be a ripper.
Matt and I have some duties to perform, Troy has a mountain of refreshments piled up in his room. They need to be loaded into his car so that he can transport them to the site of the wedding in preparation for the bar staff. 
After breakfast Matt and I drive down to Troy and Heathers hotel in Lahaina where we are joined by Amanda’s brother Jimmy and a stressed looking son in law Peter. He explains that he has had credit card problems, an errant duplicated charge from the hotel has locked up his card and the hotel unhelpful in assisting him in clearing it with his travel agent. Thankfully he has just managed to contact the them directly and all is good in paradise again. We locate Troy who has scratched his head on the side of the swimming pool while swimming in the dark last night. He will need a little make up himself for his big afternoon. Like father like son though hair is not a problem. Loading the car takes us all of five minutes and we are back in the car heading back to Honua Kai. 

We can relax for awhile before changing into our wedding attire. To be ready for pickup and delivery to Olawalu Plantation House, the site of the wedding venue at 1.30pm today. Amanda and I visited the site in May last year on the recommendation of Amanda’s nephew Kuau who is a resident renowned wedding photographer on the island. Situated south of Lahaina in a wooded coastal area the plantation house property is hidden from the road. Once the home of a sugar plantation owner it is now the venue for couples and their wedding party to ready themselves for their big moment in time. The house itself is a simple wooden structure with a large rear covered Verandah that looks out over manicured lawns and gardens to the ocean itself only 50 metres away. From the unpretentious entrance we drove through enormous overhanging monkey pod trees to the car park at the front of the house. Then as we walked around the house the scene opened up, the lawns dotted with palms run down to the beach. To the north a huge Morton bay fig and even bigger Monkey pod tree stretch their angular limbs skywards to provide a canopy of shade, enough for an army of wedding guests. To the south the beach curves around to a man made jetty, this is not a wooden structure as we in Australia would know it but more of a seawall, a break that holds a path out into the ocean, ideal for wedding photographs that provide nothing but the ocean and island views as a backdrop.
Back at the hotel we dress in our finest, Amanda in her Anne Namba number purchased on our arrival to the islands, me in my white trousers, Navy Ted Baker shirt and newly acquired Truffaux Panama hat. Matt as best man looks relaxed in beige pants and white open neck shirt.
At 1.30pm we make our way to the lobby, our taxi is there under the Porte-cochere waiting to whisk us off to Olawalu. Any clouds have scattered to the mountain tops, the day is clear and warm to hot, any breezes having vanished by the time we arrive.
We are greeted by the wedding planner Lori and welcomed to the venue. We park our belongings, I grab my camera as we re-familiarise ourselves with site. Somehow it is more beautiful, the lawns are greener, the gardens immaculate, tropical foliage and flowering plants showing their summer colour. Under the fig and the monkey pod trees the large paved area facing the ocean is set with tables themselves now in the process of decoration by the catering staff. To the left of this the green lawns stretch down to the ocean and here a canopy of white diaphanous material will keep the bride and groom from the sun during the ceremony.

First Troy and then Heather arrive, Heather with her entourage, she is quickly whisked inside so that Troy doesn’t see her before the ceremony as is tradition. Lori runs through the ceremony guiding the bridesmaids, Abbey, Aubrey, Cadence, Calista, and Cindy in their part of the ceremony. Heathers father also given his instructions. The photographer gathers the wedding party for some pre wedding photos. Amanda and I watch on, as the busy scene before us gradually develops into the scene of a wedding. Bridesmaids flit about like colourful butterfly’s eventually retreating to attend their queen as more and more guests arrive.

As the hour approaches the sun is high in the sky sending its scorching rays earthwards, all breezes have stilled, the guests are handed woven heart shaped fans to create their own breezes as we make our way to the seating area, now staged in front of the wedding canopy and facing the ocean. The Hawaiian male celebrant stands to the right of the canopy, dressed in a white shirt and beige trousers but with a traditional blue and white patterned shawl that hangs across one shoulder loosely to the waist. He is holding a creamy white sea shell that once we are seated he holds to his mouth and blows a note skywards signalling the beginning of the ceremony.

In turn the bridesmaids dressed in peach make their way from the house, leading the way is Aubrey, followed by Abbey then Cadence then Calista and finally Cindy. First groomsmen Matthew walks Amanda down the isle and to her seat. Followed by second groomsmen Justin and Heathers mother Bonnie then Troy in a blue suit and white opened neck shirt and his mother. Once again the celebrant raises the conch shell to the sky and blows three notes signalling Heather to begin her journey towards the canopy, escorted by her father. Heather looking beautiful is dressed in a flowing white gown with a high bodice and white lace top covering her shoulders. Plumeria flowers adorn her blond hair, a white plumeria shaped pendant necklace at her breast. The amplified strains of an Hawaiian 12 string guitar with the traditional Bridal Processional Song Maunaleo sang beautifully by Jamie (Lori’s husband) fill the surrounding air. 
The celebrant begins the wedding ceremony, the most beautiful and fun filled ceremony I have ever witnessed. Starting with lei giving Troy and Heather each place the floral leis around each other’s neck, then each in turn, Stan, Bonnie (Heathers parents) Amanda, I and Troys mother receive the gift of a lei from our children Troy & Heather. 
The kids say their vows and exchange rings underneath the white canopy that shades them from the sun but the heat of the day evaporates as we bear witness to their love for one another. A tear comes to my eye the love and happiness palpable.

We are soon on our feet congratulating them as they are pronounced man and wife and once again traverse the isle they trod as singles just thirty minutes ago as a married couple. Friends and family gather round to congratulate the jubilant pair lining up for photos as more are taken of the couple and their guests.

The bar opens and the party begins as the sun starts its way towards the western horizon. The recently quiet breezes pickup cooling us down as the servers circulate with finger food appetisers of coconut shrimp, samosas, sliders and mini toasted sandwiches. Meanwhile the couple are off having more photo moments the photographer having a field day against what must be one of the most beautiful backdrops on the planet. 
We are seated for dinner service just before sunset. The sky is briefly lit with orange and pink as finally the sun disappears into the ocean, the now gentle breezes are a welcome relief to the daytime heat. White moon shaped lanterns come alight, darkness descends, speeches are made by a very emotional me, Cindy (Heathers sister) and Stan her father. Then each of the members of the bridal party are formerly introduced to the guests.
More photos are taken as the wedding cake is cut, a small white iced chocolate cake sitting above circular trays of chocolate cupcakes.
The music begins. the married couple take their first dance under the monkey pod tree, and the party starts in earnest. Guests flock to the dance floor, as the night goes on more and more young and old loose their inhibitions in their dancing. From the youngest ten year old to the oldest 79 year old all the guests enjoy the music and fun. 

Eventually all things must pass and the music stops, the lights go out and we return to our beds holding a most memorable night of fun love and laughter in our hearts for ever.

Monday 17th July
Just one day now until the big day, the final guests arrive today. The day is a little cooler white caps appear on the deep blue ocean, the ever present cloud on the islands has increased over night. Evaporated moisture from the ocean is drawn upwards, forms new wispy clouds that coalesce with their mountain top parents as if gathering to await a greater cause. 
Amanda and sister Sandi are day spa-ring this morning, the Marilyn Monroe studio of beautification awaits. After breakfast they meet to go off to this mysterious place of wonders, where diligent young ladies fuss around, painting nails or toes, plucking eyebrows, waxing faces and other places while they giggle at the resulting tickle, making sure that any grimace is of course surreptitious.
Matt and I take off to refuel the Hyundai, the fuel economy astounding as we have driven most of the nine days since we landed with trips to Kahului and Haleakala national park. We miss our turn off to Whalers Village to complete some last minute shopping and end up in Lahaina then circle around again heading north finding a service station before circling back again this time finding Whalers Village. Refuelling is an adventure in its self, we both stand in front of the bowser like Gutenberg looking at a Kindle. The machine has only one dispensing nozzle, you lift then select your choice of fuel by pressing a large button, either unleaded 87 Octane, Premium 89 Octane or Extra premium Nitro off the scale octane. We go through this relatively simple process, the LCD display tells us to lift the nozzle to fill and pay inside the store or insert your credit card into the slot and lift the nozzle. Since we are used to paying inside we take that option but are met with a non compliant machine. Matt goes inside the store anyway to ask for help, turns out we can only use a credit card. I insert the credit card and as the vehicle fills with fuel the machine slowly sucks the money out of your bank account, when your tank is full your account is empty. Fuel here is comparable with home costing around US$3.44 a gallon or 3.8 litres at the current exchange rate that’s around AUS$1.25 litre.
We travel onto Whalers Village and complete our shopping tasks, arriving back at Honua Kai just little after the newly refreshed Amanda. Brother Jimmy and family arrive shortly after with a bottle of wine in hand. We are soon chilling out on the patio enjoying a glass of wine or beer. The gathering clouds, disturbed by the increased winds sent the occasional sprinkle down on us while we were on the road this morning. Now those clouds are stretching darker fingers down towards the ocean sending with them almost horizontal rain that comes in showers through the canyon created by our building and an adjacent one down to the ocean itself. The raindrops completing their eternal cycle from ocean to sky and back again. The rain drives us in, then out again as the sun comes out creating rainbows against the hills behind us. Then in again as heavier showers persist until they have returned their fill of water to the sea and the sun once again dominates the sky.
Troy is having a pre dinner happy hour, boys only session at Fleetwood’s tonight, Susan wants us to checkout the vodka oyster shooters while we are there. Jimmy, Matt & me take an Uber cab to Lahaina arriving before anyone else. The shooters turn out to be just plain natural oysters in the shell no vodka in sight. Jimmy playful as ever asks the waitress for a shot glass, we order some oysters, put one in the shot glass fill with water and a little spicy sauce with wedge of lemon. I take a picture of the resultant product, then of Jimmy downing one that we immediately send to Susan. We will try to keep the joke going until she tries to order the same before Wednesday nights group dinner. More of the male guests and members of the wedding party arrive and we enjoy a drink before taking our leave for dinner.
Tonight the Palmer-Page-Callaghan-Woessner group dine at Honu Seafood and Pizza restaurant (The word Honu meaning green sea turtle).This restaurant is situated next door to and is a sister restaurant to Frida’s Mexican restaurant scene of last night dinner. The buildings bones are identical to Frida’s internally but externally clad in yellow corrugated iron. The decor a much brighter white with blue accessories the walls covered with colourful fishy paintings and prints of sea creatures. Instead of ironwork chandeliers hang white lanterns the theme mirrored by the lantern like lights on the fans that draw in the ocean breezes that waft in from the row of open windows facing the ocean. Not such a spectacular display by the sun god tonight proving that even he can have an off day.

Again Hawaiian fish is forefront on the menu, I chose the Fresh Fish Dore Style Monchong or Sickle Pomfret, locally caught on hand lines from deep water reels at around 900 feet and averaging 12Lbs (5.4kg) it’s served on a bed of Capers, lemon, butter, dill pollen with turkish quinoa. So far the best tasting and freshest dish I have had this trip. Amanda chooses the Bikini Blonde (A Maui brewery beer) Battered Fish and Chips, Coleslaw,​ tartar sauce and‏ Korean aioli. This is also a favourite of many of the other diners. They are served a large basket of Ono (other wise known as Wahoo) fish and Chips. The Wahoo is a highly prized game fish built like a torpedo, very fast in the water and delicious when caught at around 30Lbs (13.5kg) it’s a challenge to land. Amanda as were the other diners were all very happy with their choice although the portion size was a challenge for some.
Once again night falls and the sea view fades to an inky blackness, out on the street the stars shine brightly heralding the promise of a clear sunny day for the wedding tomorrow.

Sunday 16th July 
There was a slight cool change overnight the breezes off the ocean picked up perceptibly lowering the temperature just a degree or two. Again a lazy warm Hawaiian day lays ahead. The clans are gathering for the big day on Tuesday all but a very few guests have arrived. There is to be a meet and greet this afternoon, members of our family, Amanda’s family and Heathers family will meet up at the Outrigger hotel in Lahaina so that everyone can get to know each other. Kylie, Peter, Krystal & Tyson have never met the American side of Amanda’s family. Many years have passed since Troy and Matthew have seen Amanda’s side of the family as well. Then off course very few of any of the family members have met Heather and her parents and sister. 
I manage to watch the first half of my home Australian Rule Football teams game for the weekend before Jimmy, Susan, Gaby and Kate join us for a picnic style lunch on our balcony. The panoramic view from the dry hills behind us to the ocean also provides a cooling breeze as we enjoy our lunch.

The ocean and sand calls to Jimmy and Susan they take off to the beach leaving a tired Gaby to do some couch surfing. As with most teenagers holidays means sleeping in, their body clocks only clicking in as the evenings draw near.
Matt and I watch the last half of our football game, the Adelaide Crows once again in good form defeating the Melbourne Demons in the winter warmth of the Darwin night air. Where the only moisture problem was from sweaty hands that made the ball handling a slippery task.
The sun and sand seekers return to collect their sleepy child leaving us to prepare for the evening ahead.
Along with Kate and Jim, we take a taxi to Lahaina and the Outrigger where Troy & Heather have planned the meet and greet. We arrive, the party has already started. Troy and Heather have set up a bar in the hotels grounds, commandeering part of a large thatched roof open air pavilion There are greetings of Aloha all round to those that we have not seen for a few weeks, months or even years and introductions to those we have not met and to those who have not met Kate & Jim. Then we mingle and mix with the crowd as gradually more of the guests arrive, with more and more Aloha’s.

The meet and greet sees many a glass of sparkling wine, a beer or two and the odd Makers Mark consumed, by 7.00pm the group splits up. The Palmer-Pushman-Fagan group along with the Stunnel’s head to Front street to Lahaina Pizza Company, while the Palmer-Callaghan-Davis group take a taxi to Frida’s Mexican Beach House Restaurant also on Front Street but the Northern end. Frida’s is a relatively new restaurant in town, the building once held Lahaina’s bait and tackle shop. Now the timber framed and clad building painted in pink, with white balustrades serves to offer the local catch as well as meat, chicken and vegetable dishes in a truly Mexican style. Once inside we are shown to our table beneath painted white high raked ceilings from which dangle great iron chandeliers of rusted circular steel that form ball shaped cages encasing the light globes. A row of modern timber shaped fans with vertical blades entice the ocean breezes to come inside and circulate them around. The ceilings flow down to a row of horizontally folding corrugated iron clad windows that now raised give a stunning view of the ocean just meters away. We settle in, our two bottles of pre purchased wine unscrewed by our own hand at a cost of $25.00 a bottle. 

As the sun goes down we are treated to the most spectacular of sunsets, thick dark clouds cover the top of Molokai spreading out over the ocean, a darkening pale blue wash behind them. The sun god has then painted the sky with huge strokes of orange that fade to pink behind and beyond the island creating the most dramatic of scenes. In the foreground the pinkish light reflects off a darkening ocean as various sea craft gently sway to and fro.

 Amanda and I order a two taco plate each, Amanda the beef and me the Hawaiian grilled fish (I am just loving the fish here). Both dishes served with Mexican Green Rice! A cilantro rice pilaf cooked in chicken stock with poblano chiles, parsley, cilantro, onion, and garlic. Also called Arroz verde, plus refried beans. The meals are tasty and certainly not lacking in size. Kate’s Jim sitting opposite me is served an enormous vegetarian burrito that a clean plate soon testified was delicious.
Again the stories continue from the previous night the three siblings now joined by another in Sandi to add more flavour and perspective. 
Finally only the lights of the sea crafts masts are visible and it is time to make our way home once again, to recharge ready for another beautiful Hawaiian day.

Saturday July 15th
Matt & I are a sorry sight this morning, red like freshly cooked lobsters. After breakfast we drive to the nearest store to top up on a few items but essentially to find the most soothing after sun moisturiser we can. Unfortunately not too much on offer, surprising on an island of anxious sun loving tourists that a good percentage of must over indulge. 
We are back from our shopping trip in time for Amanda’s brother Jimmy, his wife Susan and daughter Gabriella’s arrival at Honua Kai. They flew in from San Diego this morning and after checking in at their hotel in Lahaina came straight up to us in Kaanapali to have lunch with his estranged sisters.
When they arrive we go straight to Dukes, beachfront restaurant the vibe is electric, Jimmy and Kate haven’t seen each other for some seven years and the same amount of time has passed since all three were together. 

Jimmy has one goal, although it takes second place to eating lunch and consuming some wine, that is too roll around in the hot Hawaiian sand and then wash it all off in the crystal clear waters off Kaanapali bay. Lunch over Jimmy does exactly that, Gaby tags along and Susan & Kate take photos of the event, all very funny and playful.

 Meanwhile we return to our room, not wishing to subject ourselves to more of the suns wrath. Eventually the bathers and sand rollers re convene in our room. We set a dinner date for Lahaina this evening, after some interesting political discussions on the state of USA today, our guests depart to freshen up for our dinner date at Longhi’s on Front street, back in Lahaina.

As the sun once again starts its descent on another beautiful Maui day we make our way back to Lahaina via taxi cab with Jim, Kate & Matt. A Maui landmark since 1976 Longhi’s in Lahaina offers spectacular ocean views, great sunsets and mediterranean inspired cuisine. Fresh Hawaiian fish, live Maine lobster, Prime streaks, pizza and pasta. Best of all though it offered a chance for three siblings to come together and enjoy each other’s company, the evening was full of fun and the telling of many childhood tales that brought tears of laughter to those who remembered the times and those of us that were hearing them for the first time. A great night out and one we will remember for a long time to come.

Eventually the night must end, we say our goodbyes, our taxi cab arrives and we are whisked back to our beds at Honua Kai.

Friday July 14th 
Up early this morning for our sailing/snorkelling trip to Lanai. After a hurried breakfast we drive the now very familiar few miles to Lahaina the cloud cover on the mountains to our left is at a higher level this morning the dry coastal air pushing at their bottoms. To our right the islands of Molokai and Lanai sit in sparkling blue waters with the clouds covering their tops in a similar situation.
We arrive in Lahaina and find a public parking area behind Front St., just a short walk through a shopping mall across Front St., and we are there at the wharf where the Sail Maui catamaran is moored. Troy, Heather and all the kids are here, now with Heathers sister Cindy who arrived from New Jersey yesterday.
We are greeted by the captain Ray, dressed in a large brimmed woven hat, Surfers shorts and top, he’s two crew mates Steve and a female sailor are busying themselves preparing breakfast fruits and making sure all is ready for our departure. We go through a boarding procedure, signing ourselves in then giving up our shoes to Steve who puts them in a communal bag, then onto the boat to stow our belongings in the cabin where the breakfast is laid out and find a seat on the cats deck, or forward trampoline. This catamaran is a small one taking no more than 30 people, our group making up eleven is the largest. Once aboard the captain goes through a few safety instructions, the mooring ropes are released and we motor out of the harbour to start our crossing of the Auau channel bound for Manele Bay and the Lanai Harbour of the same name. 

Out in the channel there is no breeze, we lather up with lots of free onboard sunscreen, the ocean is a deep indigo, lazy small glassy waves surround us making it a smooth passage. The sun is relentless quickly burning off any clouds that dare to cross its face, leaving only clear blue.
Abbey, Cadence, Aubrey and Calista take up positions on the forward trampoline stretching out to catch up on some sleep the early start has cheated them of. The rest of us lounge on the small deck watching the ocean for any activity. Flying fish run before us, shooting out from the bow in all directions skipping and skimming the low waves like thrown stones. The fish are small, reminding me of small birds like swallows as they dip and dive, only eventually to disappear into the ocean rather than the sky. Lanai gradually grows bigger before us a dry and barren looking island sparsely vegetated. The trip takes about two hours of chugging along in the breathless air under a scorching sun. 

Ahead we see another boat surrounded by a large pod of spinner dolphins, the ocean boiling with slapping tail fins their grey sleek arching bodies breaching the surface in shallow dives as they circle the boat. As we approach the other boat departs leaving the pod to welcome us as we slow into their midst. Everyone rushes forward for the picture op, the children all excited to see so many dolphins in the wild. The pod playfully dip and dive around us giving everyone a great experience. 
The pod departs and we chug on along the black Lanai cliffs moving ever closer towards the Manele Harbour. We arrive, and make for Manele Bay just outside the harbour entrance, the water is crystal clear about 12 feet deep you can see the coral outcrops with the occasional flash of yellow as a Yellow Tang tropical fish darts out from under a coral outcrop. The crew have previously prepared us with flippers and snorkelling gear, we strip off our outer wear re apply some sunscreen and line up either to jump off the leeward side prow or to take the stairs that the crew have unfolded at the central portion of the trampoline. 

I decide to go for the grand entrance, jumping off the prow, holding my snorkel & mask so the impact doesn’t jerk it free I take the plunge. I am suddenly immersed in the warm tropical waters of Manele Bay, no cold water shock here, the water temperature matches the air. I swim around to the front of the boat by now all of the party except Amanda is in the water, she is not snorkelling today. The kids are all off exploring the reef like they belonged in this environment. Heathers sister Cindy the only one looking a little out of her comfort zone, this being her first snorkelling experience. Nevertheless she is bobbing around on a noodle enjoying a warm seawater bath. I snorkel on, exploring the coral and looking out for reef fish. Some school at certain types of coral diving in and out to suck up some indeterminable food source. Convict Tang and Yellowstripe Goat fish in the main. Other species float on their lonesome in and out of the coral, Parrot and Butterfly fish I can easily identify but many others abound. Matthew is excited ticking off a bucket list item, he finds a sea turtle to swim with, a bigger brother to the little long necked freshwater turtle he has in a tank at home.

The hour of free snorkelling goes by quickly and we return to the boat to dry off and prepare to enter the harbour. 

Once in the Harbour the crew hand out our pre packed picnic of sandwiches, salads and cookies, we disembark to make the ten minute walk to Hulopoe beach. On the last two trips we have made to Lanai we snorkelled at this beach rather than the bay, the bay was far better in my opinion.
Hulopoe beach is a crescent shaped bay surrounded by parklands dotted with picnic tables, we choose one just a short distance from the beach. The hungry crew of snorkelers devour the meal in double quick time wanting to head for the beach, temptingly just over the sand dunes in front of us. Having had enough of the sun, I lay out my towel on the sparse grass underneath two palm trees, very careful to position myself away from any coconuts that might just decide to head earthbound. Here I watch the breeze swirl around the trees tops and quietly fall asleep.

Eventually I am awakened by Amanda, it’s time to walk back to the boat for our return journey. The beachgoers have returned in awe of yet another beautiful Hawaiian sandy beach so we gather our belongings and stroll back down the road towards Manele Harbour.
Once we are back on board we take up our seating positions the kids once again opting for the forward trampoline despite warnings that the seas maybe a little heavier on our return. We expect to sail a good way of the distance back to Lahaina but the wind is not cooperating, the crew unfurl the sails, we toss around on the glassy waves for awhile with only the occasional flap of the sails indicating any wind at all. Unfortunately, the crew eventually give up and we motor back across the strait, there is nothing quite like sailing through the ocean with just the sound of the wind in the sails. The deep indigo blue glassy waves become larger and deeper as we near the centre of the channel. 

Then suddenly there are shrieks of dismay from the kids as a we bounce into a trough, seawater squirting up through the porous trampoline drenching them.

We continue on our way with a drenching becoming a reoccurring event, two middle aged ladies sit soaking up mimosas (champagne and fruit juice) on one of the front pontoons receiving a regular soaking but it doesn’t seem to dampen their enthusiasm for more mimosas, as they keep calling for more from the crew who seem more than willing to keep them hydrated.
Meanwhile the sun beats down relentlessly, boring through any sun protection, I cover myself with a towel, Amanda has long since found shade inside the cabin and behind the sails when they were hoisted. We can feel the sun though frying our skin as we finely make Lanai Harbour. 

Amanda, Matt and I head back to Honua Kai to refresh ourselves for dinner tonight. Troy has booked us into the Lahaina Pizza Co. for a kid friendly dinner tonight. It will be wonderful to share a meal with them all.
We return to Lahaina and dinner, we are all sunburnt and hungry. The pizzas are deep pan style, tasty and filling. After dinner we walk Front street to locate an ice creamy, that serves both ice cream and the in vogue again shaved ice, back bigger and better than at anytime in the past. Successful we eat our desserts on foot as we make our way back to our car and Troy, Heather & gang back to their hotel.

Tomorrow Amanda’s brother Jimmy, wife Susan and daughter Gabriela arrive sure to be a fun family day.

Thursday 13th July
Lay back do nothing kind of day today. Matt is celebrating his 43rd birthday today and enjoying the fact that in Australia it was yesterday and today he can do it all again. I cook up a big eggs Benedict breakfast with bacon (bacon makes any meal it better), complete with a perfect hurriedly concocted hollandaise sauce and sourdough English muffins (although I am sure the English never thought of sour dough). By the time this is prepared the time is 11.00am. We are running very late and are supposed to rendezvous with Troy, Heather and the grandchildren for lunch, but Troy has underestimated the time needed to meet with the wedding planner and finalise the last of the wedding plans back in Kahului. We eventually do catch-up with them at their hotel in Lahaina around mid afternoon, after we have had a further browse of the outlet stores and once again strolled Front street. 

We go our seperate ways, the five kids need feeding as they are now famished, we head back to the hotel to dress for dinner at Fleetwood’s restaurant tonight. Mick Fleetwood, founding member and drummer for Fleetwood Mac, who lives on the island when not touring or recording has a very popular restaurant on Front Street, with a small museum-gallery-shop down stairs. Apparently he is known to play the occasional gig himself in the basement as well. Our dinner reservation is for 7.00pm and this will be the highlight of our day. 

We take a cab back to Lahaina as the sun starts its journey towards the horizon. Fleetwood’s is situated facing the ocean, our cabby drops us off behind the building and we enter through a side door, then upwards into a dimly lit space with a distinctively clubby atmosphere. We enjoyed a late lunch here last year, I remember the atmosphere differently maybe because it was much earlier in the day. We check in with the receptionist who directs us upwards again to the top level of this three level building. The top level is completely open to the sky with just a chunky pergola above a bar in the centre of the floor, bartenders are frantically mixing cocktails for the thirsty patrons. We are seated at a table overlooking Front street with a view of the ocean and are quickly invited to add our cocktail to the bartenders list. The sun is rapidly descending towards the horizon, the sunset tonight will be amazing. Patrons are in turns taking photos on a small staging platform of the sunset or their partners against the ocean/sunset or selfies. Our server brings us a round of cocktails and we deliberate over the menu, none of us having a clear preference. Our server returns with an explanation of the menu adding specials of the day. One of the specials in particular catches our imagination, Beef Wellington wrapped in prosciutto, with lobster tail and shrimp accompanied by Brussels sprouts sautéed with bacon. Amanda and I decide to share this dish while Matt decides on a Filet Mignon. The wine in the US is still a mystery to me, but on instinct I order a Pinot Noir from the Sonoma valley that turns out to be spot on. All the while the sun slowly sinks into the ocean spreading all of its spectacular magnificence across the sea and reflecting its dying light across the undersides of the last of the available clouds.

Night follows, stars pop out seemingly one by one, a gentle cooling breeze blows off the ocean as we relax and enjoy our meals to the strains of blues influenced music from the Sixties. Eventually, sadly we have to leave, we recall our cab and make our way back through the warm night to our beds at Honua Kai.

Wednesday July 12th
Today is pickup day for Troy, Heather and the grandkids their flight doesn’t arrive into Kahului until around 5.30pm so plenty of time to take in some more sights before we head over there to greet them. The wind is blowing hard off the ocean this morning but the temperature is forecast around 30c again today. After breakfast we take a drive down to Whalers village a small outdoor shopping mall right on the beach. While we are there we browse the shops and then walk along the beach front to the Westin were we have booked to take all of the grandkids to a luau after the wedding. The wind has magically died down leaving a pleasantly warm day for the throngs of beach goers along this part of the shoreline. 

We receive a message from Troy, they are grounded in LAX a mechanical problem with their aircraft has them delayed by 3 hours. We decide then to go on to the Maui Brewing company for lunch, Matt has discovered some microbrews by this company and is keen to try one or two. The small brewery is tucked away in yet another shopping complex, a little further north along Honoapiilani Hwy. after a little difficulty we locate the brewery tucked away in a corner location. As we walk inside brewery vats sit behind glass to our right and above on a mezzanine floor. The decor is warehouse meets sports bar meets brewery. Small aluminium beer kegs converted to light fittings shine down from the high open warehouse ceiling over wooden tables, benches and chairs set on a dark grey concrete floor. Flat screen TV’s dot the walls showing various sporting events.

A colourful chalkboard spells out the various available beers. 

We are shown to our table. Given some menus then soon served by a waitress to take our drinks orders. Matt & I go for a Lorenzini with the bitter taste of blood oranges not realising the alcohol content is 7.6%. Amanda opts for a Bikini blond lager at 5.1% it still packs a punch.

The food is very beer orientated as one would expect, small share plates, sliders, burgers and sandwiches dominate but there are salads. Matt goes the cheese burger, Amanda the Rueben sandwich, that takes her immediately back to her roots, while I have the fish burger, all served with a generous serving of fries of course. 

Well satisfied we take off back to the Honua Kai to wait out the few hours before we need to leave to pickup Troy and the gang from Kahului airport. I begin to write this blog but a beer induced stupor comes over me, one glass of that beer I swear, and I fall asleep on the couch.
I awake about ninety minutes later feeling groggy, Amanda has befallen the same fate on the bed while reading her book. I realise a coffee fix would do me good and head down to the lobby floor where an adjacent market is situated, they make good coffee although on this occasion it is super hot. Troy keeps us updated at regular intervals, finally a message comes through, the flight from LAX is now due at 8.08pm. Low clouds have occasionally crept down from the hills behind us leaving little sprinkles of rain and at times spectacular rainbows signifying our good fortune. 

While on the oceanside a catamaran lazily traverses our view framed by swaying palm trees.

The sun however is never too far away, by the time  we leave to go to the airport it has travelled a good way towards the western horizon, we drop Matt off at Lahaina just in time for him to see the sunset and enjoy some of the Lahaina night time buzz. We make good time to Kahului airport, park the car before buying floral leis for the girls and Koa nut leis for the boys. They soon arrive in the baggage area where we are waiting for them, looking weary after a long day complicated by the exhaustive layover in LAX. We welcome them all, placing the traditional colourful floral leis around their necks and wishing them aloha! The party of two tired adults and five weary children pick up their car rental, as we make our way back to our car with enough suitcases to allow them a little more room in their vehicle. 

Again we make good time to Lahaina and their hotel where we see them to their rooms and wish them a good night. Matt is waiting for us on Front St., we pick him up and return to the Honua Kai ready for another restful recharge in preparation for events as they slowly build towards Troy & Heathers wedding on Tuesday.

11th July 2017
The sea is like polished glass this morning, the usually swaying palm trees are still, the forecast is for cloudy skies. Still we stick to our decision to take a drive up to the Haleakala crater. After breakfast and our morning ablutions, Amanda packs us a lunch of freshly made sandwiches ready for our trip. We are soon on our way south east along the Honoapiilani Hwy towards Kahului. We hug the coastline for 20kms or so overlooking the sparkling channel between Maui and Lanai, before turning northwards. Two other islands are visible as we make the turn, Kahoolawe, the smallest of the eight volcanic islands in the Hawaiian chain and Molokini a crescent shaped tip of an extinct volcano that forms an islet in the Alalakeiki channel. Once through Kahului we turn again south westwards and start our long sometimes torturous climb upwards towards Haleakala national park. This is the fourth time we have made this trip, the first for Matt but the journey is always interesting and different. As we climb we pass through lush green pastures, horse country, with rolling hills and jacaranda trees that are spectacular when in bloom but today we see only a few of the last remaining purple-blue blossoms. Then suddenly we are in a forest of eucalypts before bursting into ancient rocky lava fields filled with tussocks of yellow-orange grasses tinged with a little green. Intrepid cyclists make their way down hill as we travel upwards, their faces showing a look of distain as they alternate between wet and dry zones. As we proceed ever higher the clouds spill out their water laden contents in buckets. Then having passed the atmosphere dries, the black top still holding the heat from the last burst of intense sunshine creates wispy trails of steam that run in river-lets along the bitumen like snakes running for cover. The cars temperature gauge is dropping as we rise through 6000ft then 7000ft then 8000ft then 9000ft eventually settling around the 58f mark (14c).

It is an eerie feeling driving with clouds parallel to you not above you, a cloud fills your field of view at every hairpin bend almost urging you to fly, the closest I’ll get to being a pilot.
Eventually we reach the entrance of Haleakala national park, pay our entrance fee and proceed the last 10 kilometres or so through the almost barren ancient lava fields, now reddy brown with the oxidation that comes with their extreme age to the summit at 10,000ft. 
The cloud encircles the summit around it and above, it is windy as we venture out of the car and walk around to the various viewing points. The occasional patch of blue shows through the whitest of clouds in one direction while darker clouds drift across from another anointing our heads with small droplets of Hawaiian blessings. From one of the viewing points we can see clearly into the crater the rusty cinder cones clearly visible, the cloud moves in like a huge blanket sending its wispy fingers curling down as if searching for a hold on which to pull its bulk further forward. I am standing on a rocky point facing off a wall of pure white cloud as it moves across my field of view obliterating the scene completely. At other viewing points small streaks of cloud seem to be trying to escape the craters grasp desperately trying to move skywards. The Haleakalā High Altitude Observatory Site is clearly visible, at this elevation we are in the first one third of the earths atmosphere making it an ideal astronomical viewing site.

We climb back into the car and begin our descent, Amanda has taken the back seat this trip, steadfastly occupying herself with her IPad rather than look out at the steep drop offs as we round each bend. Matt sits in the scary seat beside me constantly working the non existent brake pedal that would in Australia normally be on his side. The car just cruises back down the way we came its own mass adding to the momentum as we build speed occasionally needing third gear to slow our descent.
Growing hungry and in need of a coffee I spot a sign to the historic town of Makawao, we make the right turn and are soon in a busy country tourist town. There is more than a hint of cowboy to this town, with horse floats and huge dual cab four wheel drive vehicles lined up along the street, particularly around the general store. There are galleries of local artworks amongst gifts shops and coffee houses all housed in buildings dating back to the 30’s and beyond. Parking spaces are rapidly snapped up as they are vacated. Fortunately we find one soon, right out side a coffee shop. Inside though the coffee is dispensed from huge urns, black only. The ice cream looks interesting with flavours like sand and coffee crunch, but it is coffee we crave and so walk back along the main street to a cafe sporting a sign “real Italian coffee served here”

Inside the gleaming espresso machine is a positive sign, the resultant cappuccino appears thick and creamy when I lift the lid on the takeaway container to add my dusting of chocolate. First taste tells me this is good coffee, Matt agrees his flat white is just to his tastes, we order Amanda an iced herbal tea the server brews a fresh concoction of mint and fruity flavours for her, she is delighted too!
On the way back to the car we pass a restaurant with a catchy sign out front “Come in and Eat or we will both Starve” got to love the humour.

Driving out of town we find a shady spot under some enormous Norfolk Pines adjacent to a cemetery with ancient looking tomb stones to devour our packed lunch and coffees then we are back on the road heading back to Ka’anapali.
We settle back into the apartment just as the light is beginning to fade, from the balcony the sun is low over the ocean cascading blinding light in our direction, dark clouds hang over the island of Lanai where pineapples are still grown today, the sunset should be spectacular. We are distracted though and miss it completely, darkness descends the flaming torches throw reflected light back from the swimming pools the end of another day approaches. To end the day we rustle up some chicken marinated in black pepper, olive oil, honey and lime juice, Matt makes a garden salad and we sit with our glasses of Washington State Chardonnay and he with a very nice Maui brewery beer in the cooling ocean breezes discussing the day and coming events.

10th July 2017
A lazy morning this morning, that’s what holidays are all about hey! The sun sparkles off the ocean as it rises to our east into another clear blue sky. From our balcony we can see that down at the beach the palm trees are still swaying in the breeze as if waving in a new day. Meanwhile we catch up on some news, love the powerful way the US news is presented. The US print & digital media wants to collude to attack Facebook and Google over their advertising revenue dominance. Due to local antitrust laws that, is going to be one hell of a challenge. The world is in the process of change its palpable here, in Australia we see the changes filtering down but America is on the front line.
Matt is just catching up from his 24 hour flight ordeal yesterday but we have a rendezvous with Lahaina this afternoon. Once he is up and about we take off down the Honoapiilani Hwy towards Lahaina. Lahaina was originally capital of the Hawaiian kingdom, the famous British explorer James Cook came here, both British and American settlers and missionaries followed. As a port the town played host to many whaling vessels that stopped over to resupply and take shore leave with the more than friendly natives. Today it is a picturesque town, sailing boats and working vessels sit side by side in its harbour, their reflections rippling off the water. While green covered sheer sided mountains rise behind, overlooking the town. Very much a tourist destination these days, with fine art, food, water activities and this amazing climate to offer it is very popular.

We find a shaded undercroft carpark conveniently adjacent to the outlet mall off the main highway and are drawn to the shops. Matt has a few items to purchase ahead of son Troy’s & partner Heather’s wedding next Tuesday. We spend a successful hour or so browsing and buying, all the outlet stores are well stocked with merchandise at sale prices that are irresistible to the usually frugal Matt.
After returning our packages to the cool car we walk back to Front street, the sun is now beating down relentlessly reflecting sparkling diamonds of light back off the ocean. The street is a mishmash of restaurants, tourist shops, art galleries and historic sites, we wander along passed the Chinese temple Musuem and Cookhouse Theatre the latter of timber construction and miraculously still standing in original condition. Chinese indentured workers played a big part in this town during the days of the sugar plantations that provided so much economic growth for Hawaii after the whaling vessels stopped coming. We pass by Jimmy Buffets “Cheese Burgher in Paradise” restaurant and Mick Fleetwood’s “Fleetwoods” restaurant. Stop under the cooling shade of a Banyon tree where a plaque marks the original residence of William Richards and wife Clarissa Lyman. These two hardy souls arrived in 1823 to Christianise the heathen Hawaiians. Their home even fired upon by ships canons as they tried to prevent the mingling of Hawaiian women and sailors as they came to port after many months at sea on whaling expeditions. I recommend reading James A Michener’s book “Hawaii” an historical fiction that is based on fact, he has only changed the names to protect the “innocent”.
We enjoy freshly brewed ice tea, coffee and sandwiches by a Koi and turtle filled stream before heading back down Front street to the carpark ready to make our way back to the Honua Kai. The Sun once again fades into night, from our lanai we have a partial ocean view that looks out over manicured lawns, sparkling swimming pools and swaying palms. As the light fades and the flaming torches come alight we set the table for a home cooked pizza, open a bottle of wine and discuss the day. Matt contemplating just maybe another shopping spree while we enjoy the cool night breezes flowing off the now dark ocean.